Anyone ever had just one roller fail? This one has worn up into the frame., not sure how to fix it Any thoughts? View attachment IMG_1852.jpeg View attachment IMG_1851.jpeg
I believe they used to make a weld in insert for that problem
I would bet on the roller having lost its oil and seized the bushings. If the insert is not available then building up and machining back to size is the only other option I can think of. It would probably require the track frame to be removed and turned upside down to do it.
Seen it done both ways welding it up will probably have to remove frame and roller on each side to make room for tooling for boring bar
I have seen it many times on D8’s that were pioneering logging road’s on the west coast of B.C. usually the first roller behind the idler, they would cut the worn section out of the roller frame and weld a new section in place. They had the machine shop fabricate new sections with the holes threaded, lots of miserable work welding, the didn’t even split the track, just loosened it and raised the tractor as much as they could. Cheers
As others have said,it’s time for an insert done as they say. However,I’ve got my out of this pickle in the past with a D6C and a D8K by lowering the roller down on the bolts enough to ram halves of aluminium piping in both ends and crush them back up tight with the bolts. Believe it or not,it has worked. Your D9H bolts will be strong enough to crush a good chunk of aluminium in there,run it,then dog them up tight again.
However,It will depend on how bad it’s spun in the first place. Did the roller bearings collapse?
Ya they seemed to have disintegrated. Currently just a pin rattling around free in the cavity. When you speak of inserts, how exactly does that work?
You cut out a piece of the track frame and weld in a steel insert machined to the correct size and profile for mounting the track roller shaft.
It’s my Dad’s machine, he’s had it since 84. Got Tormont in Canada to re-do the undercarriage 25 years ago. Hasn’t seen too much work since then. He was planning on filling gap with weld. Hand grind it down. Put new roller in.
The proper insert method is as Nige states. You can certainly try welding it up and civilizing it up somewhat then keep dogging the bolts up every time you use it. Once settled,feel free to cut some alloy piping up to create a bush to squeeze down on. Will probably be ok for what bit you use it for. On another note,both my spun rollers were rear ones.
as you say Nige, remove track frame and reclame by line boring (weld and bore to size) check all the others ,get the tool from cat and check that oil at least every 1000hrs
If that was one of my former bosses junkers, I'd remove the track frame to weld it up like you say. Not everyone has a way to properly bore it out, or the cost and time to get someone to do it. It would take some fitting but a final grind with a die grinder could do it. Just remember most all super high precision machine tools have the flat and angled bearing ways "HAND scraped" to accomplish .0001 or so accuracy in some cases. So I hope no one POO POO'S my mention of hand finishing the operation. I had to hand grind a cover for a 46A transmission pump one time to get it to work. You will need the new roller to pattern the cut out, and make a small pattern off the good cut outs of the roller next to the bad one. Or like others have mentioned a small new machined section could be welded in the spot, that would be the fastest and best option. Hope they used anti seize on those roller bolts.
You see where weld in inserts to repair damage have been used on this track frame from a jpaydirt video. Or well it looks like it to me...