okay, so i had lost drove on the rt. side. got some good basic info here. took the fella apart found that splined shaft and bearing in brake housing had went to poop. everything else looked alright, parts guys and local jd mechanics had never took one apart either or had to work on one. so i manage to fumble on my own have put her all back together. now i asked the guys up there if there would be some sort of bleed procedure i would need to do. they said no. so i filled it up and started it. let her idle a bit and tried it. eeeeeee sound and serious chatter!!! so i try the side that wasnt broke and the same thing. turn it off, get and look and the oil is totally aerated foam!!! have i damaged the other pumps and stuff??? i didnt run it all to long, but now how can i bleed it? if you do? just crack some lines will its running? what? help!!
Well, I have little experience with Deere skids, so I'm not much help. But hyd motors and such really don't require bleading, they do that themselves. I would advise to simply drive forward and reverse without putting a great deal of load on motors for a few minutes, allow the motors to fill themselves inside and start returning oil out the case drains of motors. Make sure your oil stays up to level. The air bubbles in your oil reservoir will dissipate overnight. The parts diagrams don't give a good view of the brake components, it looks like they have two lines going to each brake, don't know how they work. I hope you get it sorted out.
After I service a hydro system I make sure there is no load on the system by having the machine on blocks to relieve all stress from the drive components. The charge pump will fill the hydros and the hydros will replace the air in the hyd motors with oil as they turn. Under a load the pressures are much higher and can cause foaming. Check your oil level and don't run it very long especially if it is making serious noise. Only a guess but I suspect the charge pump didn't keep up with the amount of oil lost in the hydros that went to fill the motors and your pumps were cavitating. Make sure you hyd filters are good and the air should purge on its own.
If you have a 320D, why are you working on it? Every D-series in the country is still under warranty because they haven't even been out for a year yet.
dido on that???
well maybe it dont have the D after 320, i know it is 320 and i assumed the D part because the D kind was the only one on the jd website. anyhow it aint got no warranty or if it does thats news to my boss. anyhow! hooay for me i am completely done now!!!! i probly didnt do as great as some mechanic but it runs again and only cost 600 bucks as opposed to the 3000 for new motor and brake deal plus mechanic charges plus trying to get it to the shop from where it broke to start with. and in case anyone is ever in this same predicament, i dont knoe if it is right and dont care cause it worked for me, those disc brake clutch looking things in there run "wet" and of course when i smashed them all together in putting things together they were dry. so after much listening to everyone saying it would purge itself and it didnt. i cracked some lines like on a truck brake till it looked like it run clean and no foam. then it still would go chatter when i engaged. i knew there was no air for sure and figured to hell with it, got mad, revved the crap out of it, and engaged both sides full tilt and was intending to break the piece of you know what. it sounded like hell, then after just a few seconds those dumb brake discs must have finally got lubed enough to slide or what ever they do and it works. ha ha ha. so sometimes you really do need a bigger hammer!! so to speak. thanks again guys, now i can go back to my real life and quit pulling my hair out.