Hello, I’m new to this so I hope I’m doing it correctly. I purchased a used A25D about a year ago. It checked out good for what you can check before putting in production. The truck ran good for about 1 hour and died running across the job. The mechanic checked it out and the filters has ran out of fuel due to air. We bled the system and it started and ran for another hour and did the same thing. I call our regional Volvo dealer and they started working on it. The first thing they did was pulled all injectors out and replaced the cups they sit in to seal. They thought it was fixed but the same thing happened after about 1 hour. The next thing they did was replaced all injectors. It ran for an hour and died. They said the problem had to be in the head where maybe a fuel galley was cracked causing air to get in the system so they put a new head on. They were convinced this was the problem but after about an hour the truck continues to die. the fuel is clear going into the system but has air in the system in the return line to the tank. Has anyone had this problem and if so what was the fix?
If the filters are running dry, it means the pump is sucking them, but there’s some sort of restriction not allowing them to fill back up.. something like a clogged vent on the fuel tank cap creating a vacuum or a floater in the tank plugging the outlet, so the fuel can’t get out.. Back blow the line from the filter to the tank..& see if that doesn’t prolong the shut down.. Oh, and run it with the cap loose. Good luck PS.. sorry your dealer sux.. Can someone/anyone explain to me how a bad set of injectors would cause a filter to run dry..?? I’ll bet a weeks pay that the dealer couldn’t answer THAT.!!!
ok so which A25D? the D9 or D10? drop us a serial number, the filter heads cause this type of issue and/or if its the D9 the low pressure pump on the back of the scavenge pump on the pto box can cause it as well. Your local dealer want's shooting, it seems to be very common now that any issue with the engine running on a Volvo and they immediately point to the injector sleeves its like its all they taught at fitter school.
The main injection pump has a supply pump bolted to the side of it.. it’s equipped with a hand primer.. The newest version of the hp is no longer a screw down type.. u simply push down on it..u don’t need to be a mechanic to get one running..
if it's a D10 engine that's 100% true but the D9 is common rail and has a hand pump on the filter head ( caveat there is a serial number range on the D9 that has an electric priming pump )
Here is the product ID Number. >A25DV158384 I really appreciate the insight on this. I look forward to seeing if the number helps.
Hi Rodney, there is an extra number in there somewhere? I think you may have meant 15838 that comes back as an American truck, but the 15000 serial number trucks and up got rid of the problematic electric primer pump so you should have a hand pump, these filter heads can sometimes get a stuck none return valve in them. So its either that or the low pressure pump which is mounted on the pto housing next to the main hydraulic pump
Thank a lot for this info. We are going to look into these options. BTW-you were correct. I accidently added a number to the serial number.
Starting from the beginning, the fuel inlet can be starving, this could be as simple as a piece of trash in the tank. The fuel line travels from the tank to a bulkhead manifold, check the fittings at this manifold, if any are loose, address that first. From there, it's off to the fuel filter head. This filter head is a total piece of ****, depending on which you have. You have return fuel coming back into the filter head. If you have a defective injector (allowing compression into the fuel rail) you'll have fuel aeration. Cups and injectors are the absolute last thing to go after. The cylinder head, really? Rudd needs to fire this guy and the service writer that allowed it. The lift pump, as mentioned is prone to failure, the ceramic seal fails with water intrusion and dirty fuel. The overflow valve is a tall banjo screw on the front of the cylinder head. That should maintain 40-45 psi in the head. Any chance you can attach a pic of your filter configuration. There's like 4 possible, without a positive serial number, it's a crapshoot.
Absolutely. I will have the mechanic snap a picture.