I have an 2006 EC290B (serial 12585), around 6000h on engine. This machine was running fine, until it one day it became very hard to start. The starter was turning over with no problem, but engine would not catch on. I eventually got it started, and the engine was now running a bit unevenly, and the console was beeping and throwing this error: "128 SID 22 2". I looked this up and found it means that ECU is getting bad data from one of the engine speed sensors. The machine has two engine speed sensors. I started by replacing the one on the rear of engine (that is easy to get to). This made no difference, so I replaced the one on the front, that is mounted right behind the flywheel. Both the new sensors are brand new, so I presume working fine. Now the machine starts up fine on the first attempt (as it used to). No error messages on console right away. However when I rev up the engine (just 1 click on the dial is enough) the console will beep and throw this error: "128 SID 22 3" (note, same as before except last digit is a 2 instead of a 3). This error means that the machine is not getting any data from one of the engine speed sensors at all. I can operate the machine like this, and the error will come and go, and that is usually associated with a misfire, and the machine can lose a little power momentarily. If I unplug the front-side sensor, the machine will start but throw the "128 SID 22 3" error immediately, even on the lowest RPM setting. So I am sure that the machine is getting _something_ from the new front-side sensor, and not nothing, as the error code suggests. I'd love to get this issue fixed. Anyone have an idea what might be wrong here? What other component(s) should I consider replacing, if any? Thanks!
Good day Sorry for the delay my buddy must be on holiday see attached, check the space between the teeth and sensor, wind it in till it touch's then back one turn. Kind regards Uffex
Hi Uffex, thank you for your reply. I have to admit I don't know what you mean by winding it, are you saying the sensor is built such that I can twist it to make the tip of it come closer to the flywheel teeth? If so fantastic, will be an easy fix!
Good day If you have a fixed version remove the sensor clean the face and gear wheel, the sensor will need to be within a 1/8th of an inch from the gears. Kind regards Uffex
Good day, I suspect mine is fixed, although I am not totally sure about that. I haven't had time to get back on this machine yet unfortunately but hope to do that today. I understand I should make sure all the surfaces are clean - but that won't change the air gap of course, so I presume that if my sensor is not adjustable itself, then do you think the mounting bracket that holds it should be possible to adjust instead?
That's the crank sensor there. The one by the flywheel side going into the block is the cam sensor. There was a very few models where the cam follower would break and wad up in the engine, sometimes blowing out a chunk of the block. Check your pushrod travel.
First of all let me say I was wrong in my initial post: the sensor that is hard to get to is not the one by the flywheel. It is still the one that is quite hard to get to on the front of the D7D engine though. Now, you say the sensor that is by the flywheel (on the back of the engine, easy to get to) is the cam sensor. This is not my understanding, because all the sellers refer to this one as the "flywheel sensor" or "crankshaft sensor" (VOE20482772). For this engine, this one has a short cable (about 1 ft). The other one the sellers label "camshaft sensor" (VOE22435058) and this one has a longer cable because it is mounted on the front of the engine (hard to get to). 128 SID 22 is supposed to indicate a problem with the flywheel/crankshaft sensor. So if that is accurate my problem would be with the easy-to-get-to sensor on the back of the engine. I see no way to affect how close this one gets to the flywheel, because it goes into the engine, as you wrote above. I don't know how you could measure the air gap it ends up with. But either way, when the problem first started, the flywheel sensor was what I first replaced, and that had no impact on the issue at all.
Those sensors are fixed depth, you can only shim out away. Look at this easy. What is the front sensor monitoring? The tone ring on the crank. The cam shaft sensor is at the rear of the engine, fuel side, going right into the block ahead of the flywheel housing. The conne tors should also be labeled SE22XX or SE21XX indicating which sensor they in fact are.
Makes sense to me. I am very much a novice mechanic, and appreciate the explanation. I will look for those labels. What do you make of the "128 SID 22 3" error code that happens even after a new sensor has been put in? Do you have any suspicions on what else might be wrong, that would trigger that code?
As mentioned previously, check your block around #s 5&6. The high pressure fuel pumps ride off the cam in the rear of the engine. If the cam or follower are shedding material, you'll have erratic cam signal which will not correlate with the crank signal. The computer throws a fit and logs the error. The other possibility is shorted wiring up near the main connector from engine harness to machine harness. Simple enough to disconnect and measure harness for opens, shorts, crossbleeds etc. I will try to find proper schematic.
Please see attached
This sounds like a pretty major operation, and probably beyond my capabilities, especially if the camshaft or the follower actually are shedding - this would mean the whole engine has to be stripped down, cleaned and rebuilt, no? The electric stuff I should be able to measure / debug. I would need the testing harness and an OBDII breakout box, correct? Could you advise if this is the correct testing harness? https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256805278185575.html
With common sense and caution, you could perform the measuring at either CO01 or EA connector of E-ECU. You don't need to spend a fortune on specialized test equipment.
That harness you reference doesn't have the actual box for pinning, so you'd need that as well. More expenses. Take a paper clip, hammer out the straight end til it's almost paper thin, Voila, you now have probing terminals. It's all about patience and practice. Take your time and don't force anything. You'll do fine.
I am just worried that I would connect the wrong poles together and mess something up - or measure the wrong thing -> bad conclusion. CO01.1 and EA30 (going from the diagram you attached above), can you deduce exactly which pins / pinholes in the connectors / ports those identifiers correspond to?
I think we can hook you up with some good maps and diagrams. Just gotta be patient. There's only 4 or 5 of us, the Cat guys outnumber us. When I get back in front of a computer we'll see what we can provide
That would be great, I'll take anything you want to send me. Thank you!
Lets take a look at the attached. I blew up the connector image so that cavity identification was easier. I suggest printing out the connectors and highlight the cavities concerned. That way you'll have the information at your fingertips.
While you're in there, follow the passive measuring chart, it may uncover something. If you get comfortable with back probing , you can perform active testing as well. BTW, you can unbolt the ECU from the wall for easier acccess
Thank you very much funwithfuel. Look forward to working on this this weekend. I understand the difference between active and passive testing. What I don't understand right now is how - without the testing wire harness and breakout box - you can do the testing on specific pins. Isn't the wire harness there to let you patch into the system while the system is still fully connected? How do you do that without the harness? Perhaps this becomes obvious to me when I work on it.
Good day Alex You are in safe hands with FwF. Kind regards Uffex
If you look at the E-ECU connector, it is 2 separate connectors in a modular housing. You can disassemble it carefully. In fact, I advise to disassemble. The sharp bend right out of the connector often causes chafing. Pay close attention to orange/grey and yellow/brown twisted pairs up top. Number one cause for CAN errors.
Thank you, think I understand. Going to tackle this tomorrow and will report back here after!
Hi @funwithfuel I have performed the passive testing on the camshaft and the crank sensor, and believe I may have found something. Resistance between both pairs should be 3.9k ohm, per the passive testing paper. My results below: Camshaft, EA7-EA18: 3.57k ohm Crankshaft, EA30-EA31: 0.92k ohm If I unplug the sensors I get perfect resistance on both pairs (so no crossbleed right?). Am I right thinking this tells us the crankshaft sensor is bad?
Update: I tested with a second brand new sensor (just plugged it in and sat on top of engine). It gave me a 0.95k ohm reading (EA30-EA31). So I'm thinking this must be the normal resistance between these connectors after all, and I am misunderstanding something maybe. If the wires ea30 and ea31 are bad somewhere I could understand why the decreased resistance, but then they would not show 100% resistance when the sensor is unplugged. Right?
Then there is the other paper you sent me which says that ea30-31 should be between 775-945 ohm when (128 sid22 paper). And this would match my sensor, but then I am not understanding where the 3.9k ohm from the passive testing paper fits with that equation.
The 775 to 945 is what I would go with. Another thing you can do. Kinda hillbilly but works. Change from ohms to volts AC. Then hold the sensor near a spinning drill chuck. You should produce a weak AC voltage.
Sorry for the question spam, but looking at the active testing paper you sent me, it does not appear to have tests defined for the two sensors. Those cells are blank. It just says to refer to passive testing in the misc column. Can you advice if I am right thinking there are no applicable active tests for these sensors?
Yeah, sensors both appear to be good. And I am not seeing any signs of shorts or crossbreed on either pair. Does this indicate my problem is mechanic, ie shedding inside the engine? Anything else you'd check on, apart from opening the engine to look for shedding?
Not necessarily mechanical yet? Someone else had recently had a similar situation. He said his harness was pinned wrong or something. I'm away from my computer right now. Did you try the drill trick?
Yeah I did on the camshaft sensor and the new crank one. I saw something tick by on the multimeter (ac volt). So I'm fairly certain those are both good? Both being new and machine does start and run, which I don't think it could without at least one of them being good right?
You took the one out of the back, near the flywheel? If there was no metal fuzz, you're not shedding material off the cam. That magnet in the sensor would have grabbed it.
Yeah ive taken the camshaft/flywheel sensor of (and replaced it with a new one too). So happy to hear it was that easy to check for shedding (that went over my head before, I think you already tried telling me that), but definitely no metal fuzz on that magnet. Any other ideas what I might want to look at? I just put the machine back together and started it up,. Same symptom unfortunately. I did ch3ck all the other passive things the paper mentioned since I had it apart, but found nothing too alarming. The pumps were all a bit lower than paper called for but guessing that might be normal.
Did you check at EA /EB connections or at CO01? Did you measure resistance values from end to end? ie from sensor to connector, each wire? Total run resistance should not exceed 1 ohm. Did you flex the harness with your meter hooked up? Especially around P-clamps and brackets? Did you disassemble and inspect the E-ECU connector for vibration induced chaffing? You're only coding for crank, so that must indicate that either the signal is corrupt, shorted, open or shorted to power or ground. Does the error log as soon as you key on, or does it wait till the engine is running? I know it's a challenge but is there any indication that a belt might have failed and bent the sensors anchorage. IIRC , it's just a piece of pot metal. Does the tone ring show any indication of impact? Is the harness pristine along the engine? Very often the tin cover that hangs over the injector side cuts into the harness. Usually causes injector codes. Just some stuff to look for.
I tested at EA/EB only today. Am I right thinking I would get to CO01 up by the engine - where it connects to the fuel injector harness? I put my jumper cables into EA30 and EA31 at the EA/EB terminal and then I put my multimeter on them, and that's how I got the 0.92k ohm reading. Is that good, or should I have done anything else there? These things I did not do - I will on my do-over tomorrow. As for disassembling the E-ECU connector, I wasn't sure what this meant before, but I think you are saying take the actual connector itself apart - and this is where I will find those twisted colored wires, correct? It does not log immediately on key on, or even engine on, but it is 100% predictable. Here's the exact flow that will throw the error: 1. Turn key on. 2. Start engine (on lowest RPM setting). 3. Engine started, can sit here and as long as I like without error, and can operate any hydraulics including tracks without error. 4. Turn RPM up 2 or more clicks, and the error will happen within 2-3 seconds guaranteed. I can't speak for the tone ring right now because I have not tried inspecting it yet. But I can say that the anchorage, the harness (sensor wire) and the sensor itself are all pristine, zero evidence of any belt damage or similar. The old sensor that I took off was also completely intact, no visible damage. I will try to inspect the tone ring tomorrow. Given my description for how to trigger the error above and how the error doesn't happen if I keep tractor on lowest RPM, is that a clue for something? I really appreciate your help and keen insights.