I have a 1968ish Waldon 6000 with the Ford industrial 172 4 cylinder diesel engine. I bought it used and it was running when ingot it. I have had to replace the starter and the exhaust heater plugs and wires. I am now on to brake repair. They have been out for while according to previous owner and I have found I am in need of a new master cylinder. A new one from Waldon is a going to cost me $400. I am looking for aftermarket off the shelf parts. specifically a new master brake cylinder. I am also looking for a dash diagram that can tell me what all I am missing. Any help or advice is much appreciated.
Chances are Waldo didn't build the brake cylinders, so some numbers or even a picture and a measurement of the bore would probably be enough to get you close. Another option is to pull the guts out and find a rebuild kit.
I have tried the numbers both on the PN Waldon gave me and the numbers off the current one I have on eBay and haven't had much luck yet. I plan to take it in to a Napa, but when I went in and talked to them they weren't confident they had anything based on my description. Pictures of the master cylinder can be seen at https://www.dropbox.com/sc/fx804eg2t4n3r3u/AABpGmPYDaTUoOpj1bVQ0lA8a
That looks similar to the master cylinders from Fords of the era before split brake systems. I'd bet Napa can get one, but it probably won't be listed under Waldon, it will be a 52 F-whatever. Ebay shows a bunch similar, some with the same 3 bolt mount, and some with a similar body, but I didn't see any the same both ways. I assume that has one brake line port, and a threaded cap on the top? Without split brakes it should be easy to swap anything that will fit as long as the bore diameter is the same.
Quite sure it is late 50s to early 60s Ford pickup. They can be found on lots of equipment that has the 172. Many of he same master cylinders were used for the early hydraulic clutches on the Ford powered equipment. Tree Farmer skidders and early Ditch Witches with the 172 used the same setup. I got one a couple years ago from O Reilly's. My wife gave my old computer away without my knowledge after I had bought a new one. It still had all my equipment records, part numbers, and procurement source for every part that I have bought in the last 15 years. The young man she gave it to promptly wiped out the hard drive losing all my records. It surprising our marriage survived. If my memory is correct I believe it is made by Bendix and possibly other aftermarket manufacturers.
I have now found several that look identical via pictures and have the 2704 casting number on them but they all say they have a 1.5" bore. How do I know what size bore I have. Because I measured the rod from the brake pedal (which is .375ish) and the main bore visible from the rubber boot which is only about .875".
7/8" is a common size, I'd look for one with the three bolt mounting pattern and a 7/8" bore and it should fit. Or you could pull the guts out and rebuild it.
For brakes a mildly larger bore should not hurt you. The pedal may not travel as far and maybe even push a little harder to get the same hydraulic pressure but it should stop you fine. I would sure try it for the cost of them old style master cylinders. In a hydraulic clutch situation you want the master and slave coordinated so the pedal releases the clutch at the proper pedal position. Edit, If you end up with a larger bore you could also change the fulcrum of the pedal to give more power as you will use less stroke.
I took some photos with size reference to a tape measure. My question is how the can a master cylinder with a 1.5" bore have the same bolt pattern I need? The diameter of the area the boot connects to is only 2". The link below will show you the photos. Thanks https://www.dropbox.com/sc/fx804eg2t4n3r3u/AABpGmPYDaTUoOpj1bVQ0lA8a
Looks to me like you have a 1-3/4 or 1-7/8 bore. Pop that retainer off and take the rubber cup and the piston and spring out. You may only need a rebuild kit in it or just the cup. Maybe a hone job at worst case. There is not much to them and you got nothing to lose.
Three flavors of the same cone: http://www.ebay.com/itm/3-BOLT-MAST...id=100011&rk=1&rkt=5&mehot=ag&sd=291000796729 http://www.ebay.com/itm/Raybestos-M...7394c97&pid=100011&rk=2&rkt=5&sd=291000796729 http://www.ebay.com/itm/Brake-Maste...824-/111609917013?hash=item19fc782e55&vxp=mtr
When I first saw the pic, I thought Willys Jeep, but thay mount through the frame. It kind of looks like something for international.....
I was reading so fast I missed your question about size. They're talking about piston size, not where the push rod goes in. Remove that wire retaining ring, pop the washer out that ring holds in place, the actual piston will be behind the washer and maybe come out, or at least you can see that it is in fact 1-1/2" diameter. I would just order one of the ones I listed links to off Ebay and stick it in, they will fit and at less than a hundred bucks it's not worth fighting the old one.
Hey all, So I finally found a master cylinder for the brake system but I haven’t had time to bench bleed it yet and install. I have been busy trying to get the machine to start consistently. I had to replace the starter motor and bendix gear/starter drive because the motor was just about shot and the bendix was jammed in the extended position. I had a friend fix it but the teeth are still pretty chewed up. I installed it on the new motor and it worked, it was cool out so it took a bit but it started. I came back the next day and it was the same temperature and I repeated everything to warm up and turn it over but could not get the bendix to engage consistently. There is some play in like the pin isn’t tight enough. The links below are videos demonstrating my problems. Any ideas? I am currently looking for a new bendix but I am almost wondering if I have a fuel system issue now? Thoughts? Watch "Waldon start attempt 1" on YouTube Waldon start attempt 1: https://youtu.be/3ayEZJfJ_x4 Watch "Waldon loader bendix starter play" on YouTube Waldon loader bendix starter play: https://youtu.be/7DZKiH9zL1Q
Looks like a lot of play. If the engine pops over one even one good cylinder it will kick the bendix out. I'm not familiar with that particular starter but there should be some kind of fiber friction disk in there somewhere to stop the spinning after you release the switch.
That starter should have the drive that sticks past the flywheel and pulls in from the transmission side. Them bendixes do not last forever. Not a difficult job to change. If you end up needing one and the parts people can not look it up by the 172 engine have them look up the 800 or 801 Ford farm tractor.
I'm still looking for a bendix. Every time I get someone who actually knows what I'm talking about regarding the grooves on the screw shaft their part always has the fine grooves. But with the warmer weather it's starting within 5 or 6 tried typically. I might start looking to replacing the fuel filter and cleaning out the injector timing pump. Thoughts? On another note, was using the Waldon over the weekend to skim off top soil and level the ground for some incoming gravel. Under the top soils is a very hard clay. At some points it was a struggle to move, most the time I just dug a deep digit but that's not the point. While using the Waldon at time it seemed I was lacking some power to push forward then I noticed my hands slipping on the steering wheel and discovered oil coming up the steering column and oozing out right where the steering wheel mounts to the column. Thoughts? This one is a bit baffling to me. Thanks, Whizbang