I am in the process of purchasing some vacant property with a building and a few greenhouses on it. I need to run a few more water spickets around. There is only on spicket off of the well currently. Should I use PVC or Copper for the lines? Any other advice would be great.
use whatever code calls for... most likely, it's just gonna be pvc just as long as it isnt the main water service going into a dwelling. But Im not one to ask how to run the new lines to a well... sorry
We plumb all hose bibs with galvanized pipe. From the well to the bibs, follow code. Sometimes it's flexpipe, sometimes PVC is all that's needed.
depends on where you live...... oh and you might wanna find out how many gpm you got from the well..........
I would suggest poly lines if you are only running some water spickets to greenhouses. Copper would cost you big time. doug
I have been installing a lot of SDR 21 on the smaller jobs I have done , they make brass saddles and glue fitting for the pipe. It is nice to work with due to it is gasket pipe and comes in 20’ lengths. A lot of cities are staring to use the pipe on 2” services more and more and it is a lot cheaper than copper. http://www.royalpipe.com/pdfs/IPS Pressure.pdf http://www.aymcdonald.com/ProdList_Water.cfm?getgroup=19&sendCat=2
I would use copper tube size poly. It is usually 200 psi but the best part is that you can use compression fitting, the same as using copper. It may be a bit more money but it is far better than using the cheaper poly and barbed fittings.
why not use PEX. We use it for new construction water service from curb to house all the time. great stuff to work with and great price. Passes all Const. code here in NJ.
Use a good quality poly pipe. At least 160 PSI. I wont install anything less than that. Most of the water leaks I get called to repair are on PVC. Considering that there is possibly about 10 times the amonut of poly in the ground than there is PVC (in this area anyway) that doesnt speak to well for PVC. With poly you will only have the joint at the well and wherever you decide to put in a faucet, with PVC you will have a joint every 20 feet whether it is a glued joint or a gasketed joint.... Too many places to leak in my opinion. The price of copper will scare you..... Paul
I also agree on the use of a good quality black poly pipe. Nothing less than 160 psi. I have dug up lots of 100 psi pipe for pin hole leaks, cracks. also use brass fittings from the poly pipe to the hydrant, I wouldn't use galvanized, or plastic fittings. same reason, dug up many of them for repair, replacement. galvanized will rot away and plastic will break or just start leaking. I know what you are thinking, the outer pipe on hydrants are galvanized, yes and I dig them up all the time when they rot and replace them. Also use all stainless steel hose clamps, two for each fitting, a lot of the cheaper hardware store ones look stainless but the tightening bolt,screw isn't and will rot away over time. Jim Now this is for an 8 foot bury line, you didnt say how deep you will be with the line?
there are 10's of thousands of miles of rural water line....forget what's used for municipality mainlines here in the midwest....that are PVC. my experience in repairing these lines...is not a product failure, but an intstallation failure. dissimilar metals? corrosive soils? yeah, don't mix copper/brass/galvanized. but i think you're beating the product, instead of the contractor that installed it. glue joint failure? do they properly prepare the pipe? in reality, you're not "glueing" the pipe...you're welding it. i've seen plumbers and people in my line of work smear a little glue on a male end of some pvc, that is wet or dirty, and wonder why it doesn't hold. personally, i've put in quite a few miles of rural water line...in my opinion, pvc wins.....hands down....for cost, east of installation, for resistance to corrosive soil, etc. etc. etc... just my 2 cents
dayexco brings up a very valid point.... I bashed PVC while actually it is the process of installation that should get the bad rap.... The leaks I see are usually at joints that undoubtedly werent properly prepared... Like he said, smear a little glue and stab it in..... It just doesnt work that way too well. Miles of rural water line in this area, no problems when it is done right although I think it is all gasketed pipe, just use plenty of lube if you go with gasketed variety. Paul
PVC thats coming from a plumber do it right the first time good luck!!!
PVC is Polyvinyl Chloride.What is "Poly"?If it is the black seamless pipe that comes in a roll like copper I thought that that was PVC too. I have never used the PVC jointed pipe as a water service,that is the bell and spigot variety. My house has galvanized pipe from the street and as far as I know it is the original water service.I have been here for almost 40 years and I bought this house in 1970 as a 60+ year old house and I do not see any leaks on my lawn to date. I admit to running new threads on the pipe after it came through the wall when I bought the house because it had a small drip and I still have the tool I made to shut off the curb box again should I ever need to ) My preference would be soft copper in any area that I would be responsible for and I don't really know what my second choice would be,mostly because I don't know what my choices are in this day and age. I have run a lot of copper over the years and if a pipe should freeze you can thaw it with a welder.I don't know what you would do with a nonmetalic pipe.Ron G
The black roll pipe is polybutylene pipe around here that is all we use for water services thats from the meter to the house. And on the main water lines we use sdr or pvc with the gasket ends.
I would most definitely use the black,seamless poly pipe,minimum 160PSI and sleeve it for protection and the possibility that in the future,you might want to changout.I'm a fanatic for sand bedding--I would do that also.By me,all wells are serviced by poly,community water systems have to have copper for the service lines.
there is no "SDR" pipe....sdr i've always been told stands for "size (to) diameter ratio"
We use welded or slip jointed hdpe to 25mm mdpe (heavy wall ) with philmac compression fittings, which are reuseable ,This setup is so strong you can plough it in . I always have 13mm,19mm, 25mm fittings with me to cover breakages Stock
It absolutely stands for that,BUT---around here ,that's what it's referred to--on plans,invoices,etc. Typically,we run SDR-35 sewer pipe,which is pvc construction.Whatever you want to call it,it's good stuff.