Going to get my garage wired up and just curious if a 30 amp 220 circuit is adequate for a MIG welder. Looking to run a machine capable of doing 1/2" material once in a blue moon but mostly going to weld 1/4" and under. Keep in mind this is not an industrial or commercial garage, just a little hobby shop. Might weld something half a dozen times a year.
Depends on the machine. It should say what size breaker is required. All of my 220’s are on 40 amp. Each side wall and end wall has its own set of breakers. I’ve run my older 250 amp and my new Lincoln Flextec and have yet to run into a problem unless you have the welder on the wall with the compressor. If you’re welding and the compressor tries to kick on it’ll trip.
I would use a range plug with 3c#8 wire (bigger if it is a long distance) on a 40 amp breaker. ( this is what I use). I don’t have a Canadian code book handy but I believe you could upsize the breaker to 50 amps for a welder. Cam
Where I'm running into an issue is simply due to wanting to run two plugs. I'm wanting a decent size air compressor as well and I don't really want to be plugging and unplugging it all the time. Multimatic® 220 AC/DC Multiprocess Welder | MillerWelds Gives you the freedom to weld any process including AC/DC TIG, MIG, flux-cored, and stick with one portable, powerful, easy to use machine. Setup and switching processes are fast and easy, all while ensuring excellent arc quality using either 120 or 240 v www.millerwelds.com Been looking at this welder. Unless I'm doing some heavy stick welding it doesn't look like I'd ever exceed 30 amps input power.
My old shop is 480--The welder is set up like yours with a 50 amp with a 250 Hobart mig.
I have my welder ( thermal arc 211i) and plasma cutter on the same cart with a big piece of 4c#6 cabtire and 2 range plugs on the end so I don’t have to unplug things. The breaker is 40a. There is only one of me so that works here. As long as the loads are similar and the loads are not running at the same time, one breaker feeding both works. It becomes a problem when it is not you in the shop.
I'm looking at running each plug on a seperate 30 amp breaker. The compressor I want only draws 15 amps so I may have that circuit downgraded to 20 amp and bump the welder plug up to 40 amp.
Forgot about this thread. Ended up going with a 50 amp circuit for my welder and a seperate 20 amp for the compressor. The guys who did the work did a very nice job. The new LED lights really brightened up the place as well.
LED's are the ****, shop is 30 x 40 w/12ft ceiling 6 LED's up top and 2 over the benches are great, sooo much better than old fluorescents. Best thing is instant on and no hum even before shop is warm. Suck a lot less juice too. 50 amp breaker for welder plug as well.
I have some LEDs at home and also my service truck flashlights that tend to strobe and freeze rotating parts. Overhead lights in a shop sounds like a possible way to make it even worse, any comment?
Comment? What the hell are you talking about? I was referring to LED shop lights that make the illumination factor in my shop nothing short of spectacular. Freeze rotating parts???
I think Birken is referring to the phenomena of a LED light source making a rotating object appear to be stationary due to the frequency of the natural "flicker".
Yes, my flashlights do it sometimes pretty bad. I'll be in some dark dingy hole looking at the accessory drive and I can see the rivets on the fan blades even though it is running. I know the LED bulbs in my house do it too but I don't work on rotating machinery in my dining room. I still have florescent lights at my shop but it has good skylights so mostly natural light.
Just grab #1 wire it will cause rapid blinking, can see timing marks, set advance with left eye.
I’ve got 15000 lumen lights in my shop and they are the 4 wing type that screw into a regular E26 ? socket. Great light and no issues, no strobe effect whatsoever
Wired a neighbors garage with 6 screw in fixtures for those 4 wings. When he showed me those fancy whirlybird bulbs I laughed until he hit the power switch, holy crap can get a tan in his garage now. He actually unscrewed two, only uses for special occasions, too bright. Told him we can isolate those two with separate switch. He wasn't too worried.
Have never experienced this phenomena or didn't notice. Have had those lights in shop for several years and work on "spinny" stuff all the time.
Some LEDs sure do it more than others but it seems like something that is barely acknowledged in the industry.
Are you talking about ones that look like these? I've removed my ballasts from my 8' fluorescents and gone to led's in my shop. But they are 4 years old or so now, and aren't as bright as they used to be. Got some ends that don't work anymore etc. I'm looking at options.
Ya thats the ones. Mine look like the bottom one. I use 12000 lumen ones in some other buildings with lower ceilings
Looks like an alien spaceship.
About as bright as one!
Elvis was seen in one toooo.
I have several led flashlights that will act like a strobe tach. But I have never seen it with my wired fixtures in my shop.