Discovered this crack in the track chain on my Cat 320L. I plan to weld it up, any advice on how deep to gouge out with the grinder, what kind of rods etc would be appreciated. I have a 2 stroke italian welder goes up to around 160 amp from memory. Thanks.
Cracked track links View attachment Cracking track links FARUTC201001.pdf Good day Logan As from the attached you will see this is not an uncommon experience, most track chains links are of a Boron Alloy material. Whilst we have little experience of welding these I suggest you follow your stick suppliers recommendations. It is highly likely you will have to except the inevitable and replace the chains at some stage. If you need more information just fill in your requirement on the web site. Kind regards Uffex
Hi, All you got to do is to replace only that track segment, I as looking for a Video on youtube and found this https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FrwLe8b7gLs
Thanks uffex and AntonioRocha, I think this is already an oddball link, I took the side photo to show the other side of the link is beat up pretty bad, probably the cause of this crack on the other side. The other links are in much better condition. Thanks for the links to further info.
Yair . . . Logan . In my world cracked links on dozers were very common and were just vee'd out with oxy and welded with low hydrogen rods . . . Multicraft in our talk. You may struggle burning Multis with that welder though . . . if so see if you can get the Chinese "Cho Sun" GP's in 2.6 mm. fifteen bucks a 2 kg packet. They are a bit sticky but run okay on AC. and have some strange properties I don't quite understand. I recently built a little stick rake using cutting edge for the teeth, I intended to weld with Multis but tacked them on with the GP's and then had difficulty breaking the tacks when I didn't like the spacing. Took a punt, welded them on with the Chinese rods and 200 hours later no breakages or cracks. It beats me as I have fabricated stuff from cutting edge before with very mixed results with GP rods . . . you can sometimes hear the welds cracking as they cool. Cheers.
Where're the pics there Scrub? :beatsme
Thanks Scrub, never heard of Cho Sun but their website says they're a big Korean outfit making welding stuff for shipbuilding etc, which sounds like serious quality. I had some GP ESAB 3.2 and 4mm so poured them into it, will test drive it shovelling some trees tomorrow.
I welded a track link that had busted completely in half on a small dozer once. It was ment to be a tempary fix just to move the dozer to easier working area. Three years later I sold the dozer with that repair still intact. I used 7018 rod and kept the metal heated for a few hours, kind of like welding cast iron.
is taking that link out an option if there's enough slack/wear in the chain
Greeniron: yes taking the link out is an option I did it with an old machine, BUT (big butt) you have to have enough room to "stretch " the track to fit. What you are showing is fixable though, with someone that knows welding. Even if you take the link out I'd still fix that link as a back up(???)
Yair . . . Shimmy1 . Got a new thread coming up about the rough stuff I put together . . . having trouble posting from our new camera but I'll get it sorted out. Cheers.
I suppose you don't have a smartphone. That's what I post with. I suppose it can be tricky to post off of a camera.
I'd replace it if its the only one that's cracked.
Yair . . . Shimmy1 . I got an old Nokia flip phone I can take if maybe need to get in contact with someone when I'm poking about . . . don't need no one to phone me, I don't even know its number. (big grin) Cheers.
Scrub you sound like me some what. Have flip phone too and it takes me a few minutes to figure out how to find the number on it! Problem is when you call someone they can save your number so it's hard to stay incognito
Ks, just click it into tunnel mode, tell them you have been working down in the mine.
I have had quite a bit of good luck with welding track chain. I welded one 2 years ago that is just now starting to crack again. I use a propane "weed burner" to pre heat the link and after welding I cover with insulation to slow cooling. May not be of any help, but has worked well for us.
I forgot, I air arc out the crack, or "v" it first.
Hey man... if you really have to make a welded repair then I'd follow Maddogs advice... 7018, low hydrogen rods.. 2.5mm. cut out a good bit of the cracked metal, pre heat.. not glowing red. Shield the area while welding from the wind and play an oxy torch over the area while it cools slowly. Personally I'd cut it out and try to join it, it does look heavily worn... worse case use a new link. I'm a fully skilled welder and I'd get the big hammer out lol
Ground out a v, poured in GP rods, read some thread, poured in 7018, then did a few runs with hard facing on the uneven wear. Not going to win a beauty contest but its improved it and it's fine after a few days shovelling in hill country. Hope it lasts for years personally. Apparently it costs about 1500 to get a joker out with a track press, which is half a new Berco chain. So welding makes quite a bit of sense.