1992 International dump DT 466 non CDL HYD. disc brakes with fresh pads allison automatic 6 yd. dump with ditch gate GREAT running condition old county rig NEW .. -mud tires with chains -batteries -starter -alternator The price is 8500, looks to be in good shape, I havent gotten ahold of owner yet, but will get mileage and maintenance info. Anybody have any input, seems like a good fit for me, the only thing im not super sure about is the auto tranny I was thinking manual, but not for any paticular reason except thinking it ay be more dependable. Does this seem ike a fair price, and a rig that will be fairly trouble free and dependable? thanks
Seems high for comparison around here. Those trucks are tough and easy to work on when necessary.
yeah, thats what I was thinking, talked to the owner, he said he has had some issues with the instruments cluster, and mileage is screwed up, so he wasn't sure how many miles on truck, he said he would call DMV and see if he could get it figured out. Truck looks very clean. I will go check it out tomorrow. What do you think a fair price would be? Anything specifically I should be looking for when going over this truck, I have some experience with dump truck but not a lot, Im trying to get a mechanic friend to come along, but if anything specifically that commonly has issues on these trucks sticks out it would be helpful when checking the rig out. Thanks
$8500 is high for that truck IMO. One big minus (for me anyway) would be the hyd brakes, I would prefer air. Air brakes are better performance wise and usually cheaper to operate. I wouldn't be worried about the Allison trans, it's probably a MT643 or 53 which is a common trans in trucks that age. I would put the value of that truck in the $5K range, of course without seeing the truck first hand it's hard to give a value. This should give you an idea about asking prices - http://www.truckpaper.com/list/list...NATIONAL&bcatid=27&Pref=0&scf=false&HDROR=asc
What's a "non CDL" truck?
It's a truck 26K GVW or lower that doesn't require a commercial drivers license.
Under 26K GVW
Would an I-H dump truck with a DT466 fall into that class? I'm thinking that might be like an I-H 4600 size truck. Just asking.
Most 4600's, the majority of 4700's and even some 4900's had GVW's of 26K or less. I had a '99 4700 dump and 03' 4300 dump that were 25,999 GVW. All had a DT466, really wouldn't want any other motor in that brand of truck. The 4300 was actually a 29K GVW truck that was derated from the factory and had a 25,999 GVW. That truck I spec'd new and the only way to get a locking rear end was to go to a 19K lb rear end. It was 10K front and 19K rear. Currently have a '99 4700, DT466 with a 5sp (really wish it was a 6 ) that is 25,999 GVW.
Well, I've learned something today. Shows how much I know about trucks eh. :notworthy
I'd say its a reasonable price for the truck. As others have noted, I too would prefer air brakes & a 5x2 tranny, but i'f on flat ground and new drivers, its ok I guess. The big kickers is the new rubber, if they are not caps, thats like 2k there, chains $200, starter & alt. $500, batteries $300+. See how new all that stuff is. Ex municipal units like that are probably old snow fighters, check to see if it had a plow, if so then check if the bed is ran off central hydraulics, also check the alignment and condition of the front end & look all over for rust. That being said I paid $8,500 last year for a 88' ford f-800 w/ a 7.8 diesel in exceptionaly good shape and would do it again in a heart beat.
Good point stumpjumper, if all those items are new it does make a difference in the value of the truck.
I will likely end up doing a decent amount of mountain driving with this rig, It wont be the end of the world if we have to take it slow, but if the automatic wont cut the mustard in the hills, I will look for a 5/2. Thanks
5x2 are not the end all, I pull tag trailer with mine alot in the hills of north central pa, and If I had 7 that were spaced right that would be enough for me. Combo weights 40-45k. What are you looking to pull / haul?
personally i would MUCH rather have a auto than a 5&2. Even my best drivers have a way of tearing up a 2spd rear end. the auto does much better in the dirt than the 5spd.
I checked out the truck, the seller failed to mention a bunch of things that were wrong with the truck, over all it seemed ok, just a bunch of smaller lack of maintenance issues, leaks and such. Instruments were not working, who knows how many miles. We loaded it with rock and took it for a drive, seemed pretty sluggish, not shifting exactly right. Got back to his place and found a smoking brake caliper, so that makes sense for the lack of power. Also, the guy said he would come down five hundred bucks, but the truck had 3000 in back DMV fees due, so that puts it at 11k, plus a couple to get it work ready, so 13, I think I can do better for that price. As far as 5/2 verse the auto, I am not experienced enough to know whats better. And as far as drivers tearing up rear ends, do you shift the rear end in and out of high/low while moving? In my ford dump I have always stopped so I cant seem exactly how you would screw up the rear end? I have seen a few advertised that say they have an allison with a 2 speed rear end, is this possible or a mistake in the listing? Thanks for the input
707pc50, I would run not walk away from that truck for what you will ultimately have in it. I have also seen adds for autos w/ 2sp rear ends, anybody have any info on that?
with the 5+2 you will need to shift the rear end loaded. the steps between 3rd, 4th and 5th are large and the truck will fall on its nose normally if you do not. I have seen auto's with 2spd rear ends also the rear end was still driver controlled. usually a switch on the dash or some of the ones with console style shifters still had the switch mounted like it would be on a stick. I agree that you should RUN from that other truck. i would say the truck would be a good buy under 5K. Theres so much good iron out there that you shouldn't have to put up with high priced junk.
so with an automatic, do you shift the truck while going throw the gears you shift back and forth with the rear end? Or do you just treat it like a high/low range on a 4x4 pick up? Only using low when nessecary, and using high for most operations.
I have only driven auto with a 2spd rear once and it pretty much operated just like that. Low for crawling around on site then high range for moving down the road. You could split the top gear if need be but the auto made it work fine. the auto does wonders in the dirt. makes going through the bad spots so much less dramatic.
Great motor. Mine went 500,000 miles. Mine also had hyd breaks. They are not safe with a load. The difference with air is night and day if you have hills. Also you live in the state that just passed truck regulation and your year truck has you replacing the motor soon. I think the owner whats someone else to deal with the CARB issue.
Can you give me a brief run down on these new regs? If the truck is in northern cal do these regs apply? I know are smog regs are night and day diff then the cities? Does this apply to a personal use, ranch truck? When would this go into effect? Thanks
Mostly it is in effect now. Changes have been made,some actually in favor of the "little guy". There are a few exemptions that you might be able to use. First off will it be a ranch truck or not? Are you going to register it with the DMV? That changes a truck to off road and a bunch of different regulations (welcome to Califorina)! There is some things you can do. (1) If you don't drive it over 1,000 miles in a year then you won't have to retrofit the motor at all.(2) If the truck is under 20.000 miles a year then you can put off retrofitting untill 2016 for a single truck owner.(3) There are attainment areas that no retrofitting is required but I don't know if you are in that area. To take advantage of the first two you must register with the state ARB prior to 1-31-12.
I am glad Reel Hip mentioned the CARB rules. I have a bobtail International dump with the DT466 automatic and a two speed. It passes the smoke test but will be terminated by CARB in the near future. We are completing the special registration paperwork at this time in order to obtain the maximum permitted use prior to its regulated demise. It is my understanding the rule applies to an on road truck as On Road Always even if it is used off road based upon the original construction was for on road. I have been to seminars on this and some folks alleged an SE plate buys a lot of freedom and the word is NOT to be. * The automatic was initially a bit of a mental hurdle but I am very happy having it. I like it for all sorts of things - convenience, precision backing and turning in tight places on sloped areas where the brakes would let it roll back is eliminated, and intersection to intersection performance is better. * I have to think about a new truck someday and getting rid of this one seems pointless, it does all I need it to do and pulls the equipment trailer with a backhoe or a dozer or a compactor or any of the manlifts quite handily. I feel the newer truck will cost me a lot of $ and yes I will certainly get one with the air brakes but it maybe wont be as reliable with all the new fangled stuff. I will be strongly considering an automatic trans with a two speed rear axle just like I have now.
Hello 707pc50: I have some CARB information for you. If this truck is a light truck (GVWR 14,001 - 26,000) you would be required to replace the motor with a 2010 Model Year or newer engine by January 1, 2015. If the GVWR is more than 26,001 than the truck is considered a Heavy truck and the engine replacement requirement is also January 1, 2015. These dates are standard compliance dates. There are of course different use rules to the regulations to delay the re-powering or retrofitting requirements. These depend on the Manufacturers GVWR (typically located on the driver's side door post not the unladen weight, gross combined weight rating, or registered weight rating) the County you live in, and annual mileage. Additionally, are you a licensed contractor? If you choose to take advantage of any of the Special Provisions, Extensions or Exemptions, you must report by January 31, 2012. Whatever truck you purchase, you should consider this information to help make the best decision. www.Becarbcompliant.com
Not a licensed contractor at this time, truck will not be for hire or used on contracted jobs, only personal projects and ranch work, but do need to be able to drive it on road so yes registered with DMV. How do they know if u put more then 1 k miles on it annually? The county of use is humboldt in northern cal, gvw will be under 26k, how long until reposed would be needed to stay legal to drive? Who emforces this? Most trucks I've been looking at have been early 90s internationals with dt466s Thanks
Humboldt County is what the State of California refers to as an Attainment County. What that means to you is this: As long as your truck is driven in your county ONLY, you can delay having to replace the motor for an additional two years. A truck under 26K is considered to be a Light Truck and has a different compliance schedule than heavier trucks. A 1995 model year or older vehicle would need to have its engine replaced by January 1, 2015. Being located in an attainment county, you could delay replacement until January 1, 2017. The California Air Resources Board is the governing agency for diesel regulations and they partner with the State's 37 Air Districts to enforce the rules. Additionally, an attainment county is exempt from the NOx rule. Your only concern would be addressing the issue of diesel particulate matter. At any rate, replacing the engine by 2017 with a 2010 or newer motor would satisfy all compliance requirements and you wouldn't have to worry about upgrading after that. Please be aware that if you want to take advantage of the compliance extension you must report your truck information to the California Air Resources Board website at: www.arb.ca.gov no later than January 31, 2012. Their website is voluminous to say the least. If you have any other questions please don't hesitate to contact me. I assist many equipment and truck owners throughout the State with these regs on a daily basis. You can find my contact info at www.becarbcompliant.com . In closing I encourage you to take all this information into account before purchasing any truck. Good Luck.
I just bought this one this summer for $10,000, for the sake of comparison. 6 speed, 250,000km 1998. 33,000gvw with hydraulic discs. I had to do the clutch and the box needs a new floor, so probably $12,000 to have a near perfect little dump truck.
Nice rig! Bearmntmartin When you did the clutch is the park brake still at the drive line? My 1988 always gave me problems.
Martin, I'm curious about that backhoe and trailer. What size is the tractor, and what axles are under that trailer? That's a nice little truck, how do you like the disc brakes?
looks are decieving. Its actually a JCB Midi, so not a full size machine. I drag it around on the trailer you see there which is liscenced as a 12K deck over, although the axles are 14k for some reason. [/QUOTE] That's a nice little truck, how do you like the disc brakes?[/QUOTE] Disc brakes stop it pretty good. As well as air I think actually, and my labourors can drive it.
It has worked fine so far.....
I could tell it wasn't full size, unless the cab was huge, but it looked bigger than it is. I went and looked at it on the Jcb website and that is an impressive little machine. Thanks for the info, Mitch