The D5G is getting new rails and sprocket segments, with new bolts and nuts. I'm reusing the old pads. So far I removed the pads on one side of the machine with the track on the machine. The old rail is now laying there under the machine, ready to pull out with the tractor. The other side is next. I'm sure that I can figure this out on my own, but why reinvent the wheel? What method to install new rails works well for you? Since I don't have a track table or fancy specialized equipment, I'm thinking of installing the rails on the machine first, then installing the master link, and then installing the pads, rotating the track as required. Or would you install the pads with the rails off the machine and then drag the assembled track into place under the machine? Any tips for how to lift and pull the two ends of the track together? Any and all help appreciated!
This is a simple procedure provided you haven't disconnected both tracks ....... if you have it gets a bit more complicated. I would install the pads on the new rail first and then drag it under the machine using your tractor, leaving about 2-3 sections out the back of the tracytor and the rest out the front. Make sure you have the rail facing the correct way. I've seen many people install rails the wrong way round. Then you need the tractor lowered down low enough at the rear for the bushes to catch the sprocket teeth, but not so far down that the bottom rollers are sitting on the rail. Start up the tractor and using a small chain sling round a suitable point on the first bush in the rail and the sprocket teeth slowly and CAREFULLY drive that one track forward so that the rail is hauled right round the sprocket. You may have to crib underneath the pads a couple of times in the sprocket area so that you can reposition the chain sling on the sprocket. Once the rail is pulled right round the sprocket you need a couple of bars and/or cribbing to "walk" the master link over the top of the carrier rollers until the master link is lying over the front idler. At this point you have to lower the tractor on to the bottom rollers (to take all the slack out of the rail) and using the blade or a small hoist or a couple of bars raise the links on the lower run of the rail until they are hard up against the idler. This is where having the shoes already installed helps because you can crib under the grousers and nothing will slip. At that point - assuming you slacked off your track tensioners prior to all this - you ought to be able to persuade the 2 halves of the master link to joint together. Slap on the master shoe and tighten the bolts and you're home free. Repeat the process on the other side.
Make sure everything is clean bright metal. I use a flap wheel on a 4 1/2" grinder. Make sure flange is clean on the final make sure the segments are clean, use red lock tite on segment bolts. Then clean master link teeth and the face that the pad rides on then back of pad and use anti seize on those 4 bolts. I have never used the blade/ cribbing method like nige but I use a 2" sling and on the bottom set of pads under the idler feed the strap through from the outside and back 2 or 3 links then pull it around center rib of the idler and under the first two links on the top set of links then take an old bar and put it through the Web of the link and through the end of the sling. Hook the other end of the sling to the crane on a truck or forklift or if it is a track loader go right to the bucket and when you pull up on the sling it will pull the ends together then just remove your bar from the end under the rail and keep lifting and the sling will come right out. I just did this on a track loader the other day but never thought to take pics. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I317 using Tapatalk
For the master link bolts the anti-seize goes on the threads and on the shank as well as under the head of the bolts. As you are re-usin the shoes make sure there are no hickeys on the area where the bolt heads sit. (That applies to all shoes, not just the master link). On a new rail I'd also be very tempted to run a tap down the threads in the master link if I had one the right size, they are usually fine thread. If no tap then cut maybe 3 slots lengthwise in one of the old bolts and use that instead of a tap. Make sure the threads are really clean before joining the master link.
Yair . . . swampdog . There will probably be a lot of opinions on this and as far as I am concerned no one way is "right" . . . it's just what works for you. I have no knowledge of SALT track but would have thought your new assemblies would be supplied with bolt together master links installed? I must also admit that I am so ancient I have only changed maybe half a dozen tracks with the bolt together segments, dozens though with the standard master-pins which we mostly cut between the links. Procedure for both is pretty much the same and first thing you need to blade off five or six tractor lengths of level ground. . . less if you can jack the machine with blade and rippers. Next you have to get that idler back. Normally you do this this by placing a suitable sized block under a grouser in front of the idler and try and walk up on to it after removing the grease fitting . . . watch it that grease can come out with some force. It may be a bit more difficult with the plates off, you will have to use a bit of 4x2 or some such and have an off sider position it to pick up on a bush. Once the idler is back position the master link on top of the sprocket and undo the bolts and remove that last plate . . . I seem to remember two types of link. One had multiple small teeth and could be a bear to disengage . . . the solid link with a single big tooth seemed to work better but things have probably changed. You may have to take the weight with a bar or even a little chain come-along until you can pry it free. Once done drive forward and lay the rail out on the ground. Then, making sure it is oriented in the right direction line the new chain up and just creep the tractor back onto it. At this point I should mention that all the paint should be removed from the engaging faces of the master link, you need it cleaned back to bare metal and ensure the threads are free . . . it would probably even pay to clear them with a tap. Don't forget your favourite antisieze gumbo when you put it all together. Once the tractor is sitting on the rail support both ends of the rail with blocks to about half idler/sprocket height. Then back the tractor right back and engage the sprocket. An off-sider can put a bar through the link and support the track over the carrier roller and onto the idler. Depending on the amount of slack it may be possible to engage the teeth of the link on the idler and on a tractor with out a 'C' frame or push beam in the way you may be able to button it up there . . . mostly though on the bigger tractors I chained the links together and drove the machine back so the final connection was done over the sprocket. Don't forget to remove the paint from the faces of the links when bolting on the plates. Apologies if you have a different style of track but that is how it used to be done. All the best and work safe. Cheers. *PS. Looks like Nige and a couple of others type quicker than me. (big grin)
We usually put rails on then put pads on , less weight to wrestle with in your shop, easy er on your back, make shure you torque the pad bolts to spec, used pads can be tough to keep tight sometimes.
As having done this in the field a few times where we couldn't get a broken machine back to shop(busted rail) we used to block the machine and position the rails junctions(either master pin or SML or broken link) by rolling the rails until we could break them and have them at the same length on the ground we then would drop the machine back to the rails roll out the new rails then drive the machine(not on a hi-track) off one set onto the other. On a hi-track I could see using another machine to roll the machine onto the new rails with enough shoes attached to get it sitting on the new so could finish dismantling the old units. Was easier to back the machines onto new rails with a minimum of shoes swapped so we could keep the rails lifted and in connection to the sprockets, a backhoe comes into play as a well usable assistant to wrestle the rails around but a truck with a side jib will do as well, even used a small wrecker a time or two.
On good flat ground a High track will walk from one rail to another no problem if you do one side at at time. Last one I did was a D9N, By myself with just my 6000 lb auto crane. I did have access to a 330 excavator to unload the replacement track coils and lay them out.
Nige, that procedure sounds fairly simple. I'm wondering why you say that it is more complicated if both tracks are disconnected, since the machine is elevated and one isn't moving the machine during the installation? I don't have the replacement parts yet and was hoping to knock the second side apart while waiting for the parts. Most of you seem to recommend installing the pads before reinstalling the track. With this being a wide track machine, that would mean having to elevate the rails maybe four or six inches, to gain working room underneath to install and hold the nuts while tightening the bolts. Does that make sense? If one waited to install the pads until the chain is on the machine, one would have more room to work. Also, installing the pads later makes everything lighter while installing the track. Just wondering about the pros and cons.
What I normally do is not quite like that procedure. I split one track, lay the replacement track out either behind or in front of the tractor then use the other track (that I haven't disconnected yet) to drive the tractor on top of the new track. Once the tractor is on top of the new track you can decide how best to "roll up" the track on to the machine and join it up. Once one track is joined up and tensioned then split the other one and repeat the process.
On a High track machine I use a 3/8"log chain attached to a lifting eye in a sprocket segment bolthole. Wrap it around the final drive and "winch" the track over the front idler. When the rail gets to the sprocket teeth you are there. Easy Peasy. Of course you "bump" the machine with the other track as you pull the new one on.
Pad swaps just plain suck w/o a track table but I think you are right about being easier to install them after the rails are installed.