416C serial in Sig Bucket cylinder needs resealing so thinking of doing my self but looking at the outside and inside nut and need something to help. Used this hoe to do the 955 cylinder work but don't see using the 955 to work on the hoe.
You need a spanner wrench and a cheater pipe
Would be nice if they had flats on the nut so a BA pipe wrench could be used like on the 955
Sometimes you can get away with a good chain wrench and pipe. Tap on the area around the nut on the cylinder tube with a hammer while pulling on the wrench.
The pipe wrench teeth will bite in the setup you have. Will make it ugly tho.
You also need to be a little lucky. Lots of times the threads are buggered up enough that the barrel and gland don't want to separate. I used the chain wrench for years for that stuff and it works well as long as you stay off the barrel itself. The old adjustable spanners wrenches used for the dead axle nuts on the final drives work the best. Also look carefully to make sure there are no hidden set screws installed to lock the gland. The piston nuts on those types of machines aren't too bad. I usually locked the rod in a press at the eye end, put blocks under the rod by the piston end and then tried turning the nut. I have flame cut plate steel to make a slugging wrench when they were tighter than I could manually turn them.
Good ideas. With the 955 cylinders I put the eye in the rear where a trailer would be hooked up and used the hoe boom to apply pressure to the wrench to remove the nut
Piston nuts are usually installed with thread locker. A little heat and they come off relatively easily. No heat, and you're in for a battle!
If it doesn't come off easy with a chain wrench or pipe wrench, thy the peening technique: HeavyEquipmentForums If it still won't come loose, make a wrench with a section of pipe to go over the gland and cylinder, hold it tight with ratchet straps around the base, and weld some key stock inside to fit the grooves, then a socket for a cheater pipe and it will come loose eventually.