Who knows where or even if I can find a wheel seal? I've got one stem leaking out of the chain box fluid? That's the photo with the oil all on the inside of the hub! The photo with oil residue on the bolt is something else I'd like to remedy! 1958 Allis Chalmers
it looks similar to the old cat #12. the hub is likely fit to a tapered keyed shaft and has to be pulled. thats what the two threaded holes are for. after the hub is off, you may be able to see the seal. if not, it will be inside the retainer or bearing housing and more disassembly will be needed. there should be a number on the seal that may be able to be crossed to a current number. if not, a good bearing supply place should be able to find one by just using the dimensions( id of housing bore and the od of the axle). as for the leak around the nut on the outside, that usually indicates that the hub may be loose on the axle or oil is leaking from the seal and seeping through the keyway
The hub knocks off just like a Galion does, look a page back or so to a post by Townlineterry that I responded to about how to get them off. I looked at my Galion books for a CR number but I never took time to write it down when I replaced one.
I'll see if I can find an OEM #, from the parts manual I have...
Thanks!
OEM part # is 048703. This is from an original manual, form #TPL278B. I know on the ag side, some of these old numbers, you have to add either 70 or 700 (I forget which) to the front of the number, to get a modern # (IE: 70048703, or 700048703) Not sure if this holds true, on the construction part #'s. Stephen's near Pittsburgh, might be able to help you out, I got my cutting edges from them, about 10-12 years ago. Here's a link... http://www.stephensequipment.com/
Thank you very much!
It must be that you add a 70 to the original part number, that's how I looked it up. These folks bought the parts inventory from Fiat Allis: http://www.minnpar.com/partlisting.asp?PartNbr=70048703
Thanks! I have a feeling I'm going to need bearings as well! I notice some wheel wobble while driving in 3rd gear!
HeavyEquipmentForums
Check and make sure the wheel just isn't crooked on the hub. If the bearings are just loose, you may be able to adjust the preload by taking out a shim or two. This isn't really right, but it will do on low usage machines. If you do put in bearings, after you set the preload, you will need to center the sprocket up with the drive. You just move the shims from one side to another for alignment.
^^^ you nailed it Repowerguy!
Boogered up clamps, I see... Find an old IH farm truck or school bus, should have the right clamps...
My tire guy says he's got plenty of these! I can't believe I did the notice these earlier!
It may not be the axle bearings but the wheel is loose on the tapered shaft. When I got my D grader, two wheels wobbled, one on each side. The nut was tight but these wheels were loose on the axle shafts. The problem was caused by a boss on the end of the axle shaft being too far out and the washer hitting the boss before the wheel was tight on the taper. I have heard of others having a similar problem. It may have been that way from factory and never attended to so the taper on the wheel was wallowed some and the keyway messed up. I had a machine shop fix the tapers and the keyways in the hubs. These wheels ended up being about 1/4" closer to the chain boxes than the other two wheels. The machinist made me two cupped washers that fit over the washers so the nuts could be tightened to hold the wheels tight on the tapers. This might be your problem.
After re-reading my post I see that I made a mistake. The cupped washers fit over the boss on the axle shaft so that the axle nut was able to push the wheel tight onto the taper. This solved the problem of the loose wheels.