In reading the manual for the 310 L, it suggests torquing the boom to dipperstick pin bolt torque to 460 foot pounds. Where do I find a torque wrench to do this that doesn't cost an arm and a leg? Or do I have to bite the bullet, and spend the money? Or is it sufficient just to make sure it's tight? Thanks
3/4 drive torque wrench is what you need to reach that range, they typically go to 600. but is this just a bolt that secures the pin to keep it from walking out of its bore? If so I just run them down with the impact and give them a couple Ugga duggas
I think so. I’m going to look at it today.
Or you can use simple math. If say you weigh about 230 lbs and have a breaker bar that is 2 feet long just lean your full weight on the bar. If you are a little guy of 115 pounds put a pipe on the breaker bar that is 4 feet long!
a unit of torque equal to the force of 1 lb acting perpendicularly to an axis of rotation at a distance of 1 foot. I never thought in that direction!
If I was to have the ambition I could possibly find a Euclid service manual page that gives a spec' for the torque of an axle nut that specifies the length of a bar and the weight of the mechanic!
And if you're a little guy and need to weigh more just start filling you pockets with large sockets and wrenches.
It's going to be a pretty short bar for a biscuits and gravy weighing in at 600.
I have a couple used ones that I bought at an auction that came from John Deere. I would like to sell them if you are interested send me a message.
I'm the same most pin retainer bolts just get hit with a 1/2" air or 1/2" mid torque fuel gun. But a 3/4" wrench would be where you want to be for that range. Look around used/pawn shops if you want one.
Torqued the wrong bolt and snapped it off. Now have to find a way to get the piece out. Thinking I’m going to have someone weld a bolt to it and wrench it out. Five minute job. One broken bolt. 4 day annoyance.
How much mechanical experience do you have? if you are going to be wrenching on construction equipment broken bolt extraction is a skill you will need to develop. You could try walking it out with a punch and hammer too. A freshly snapped bolt this method may work on.
Very little experience with removing broken bolts. I know that I can drill a hole in the fastener, and use a screw extractor, but this piece is probably in tight, and I don't think the extractor will work well. Plus, I worry about munging up the threaded hole with a hand drill. No idea how to walk it out with a punch and a hammer.
Use a small sharp cold chisel along the edge to create a burr, then a duller chisel to tap and turn the bolt out. Remember righty tighty lefty loosy. The correct torque is usually stop a half turn before the bolt breaks!
Thats what those stubby 3/8" ratchets are for,the 600 lb guy
I usually weld a grade 8 nut matching the size of the broken fastener to the broken stub. Easier with a mig machine, but have done it numerous times with stick also. These are extracting the rounded out "Torx", or Allen head fasteners, (don't remember) in my Kubota diesel to get the sheave removed from the crankshaft snout: Works the same for broken Cummins engine head bolts too.....
Something about those flat head screws that make them hard to get out. Had them holding planetarys on a IH loader and only way to get them out was to heat the head close to red and let cool then they would turn out so easy hardly needed the ratchet on the allen head socket. Also have the same problem on the little 1/4 inch screws for the access cover on my Sportster, but being in aluminum don't dare use heat. Those I just drill the head off and then the threads turn out with fingers. Tired anti-sieze and just barley tightening them and still half the time at least one needs to be drilled!
A big hammer is the best solution for those socket flat heads, but that makes it a two man operation. Put an L wrench in the socket, and make a punch that will clear the L wrench. Put good torque on the L wrench, and hit the bolt head with your special punch. About 1# of hammer per 1/16" of diameter of the screw. You have to do this to start with and it will work. If you wait until you have rounded out the socket with your worn out wrench its already to late. As for the bolts, get a torque stick for your big gun. Its close enough to the torque on semi wheels, so you need it anyway.
I found some really nice fairly cheap dial torque wrenches on facebook marketplace, same for ebay and some local pawn shops, there out there, especially the larger sizes, most people don't need those so at the right place and time, they are fairly cheap [reasonable] but the calculated method of weight and length does the job too.
A dial type makes torquing a 2 man operation.
For about 5 bucks you can glue a magnet to any mirror made, then angle it so you can see the dial as you use it. All of mine have the movable pointer so you can preset the amount you want to torque to and then just use the mirror to see when the needle touches the pointer.
The mirror trick may work with 150#, but unless you are a 300# fellow with young eyes, that 450# mark on a bolt requires a long enough extension I can't read the needle, even if I can see it. Vertical bolts make it even worse.
My Dad and Uncle spoke of torqueing the Prop retainer nuts on the old DC 3s Wasp Engines, no spec listed just a Prop nut wrench a 10' pipe and a 160 pound man, when the wrench and nut stopped turning was torqued, later he found was 1600 lbs.