Hi Everyone, new here, have my first fork lift. I've been looking all over the web to find the parts catalogs to verifiy it takes a Wix 51050 oil filter. It has 2 holes on the outside and one small one in the middle, not sure if this truck takes a bypass filter or not. Also the hydrotoruqe transmission seems to be a bottomless pit for ATF. Anyone have any idea on the capcity? I added a gallon and it didn't seem to move. Been looking for parts catalogs and schedule service and repair books. I found the schedule service and repair for $10 each but still can't find the parts catalogs. I'm surprised there isn't an electonic version I guess it's to old of a machine. I put 10-40 synthetic in the engine and changed the hydro filter, she starts and runs with lots of little projects hopefully I can work through. If anyone has info on this machine(I can't even find the fluid capacities for the tranny!) or a source for the books it would be appreciated. Thanks! Jeff with the new to me Clark
here is my short list of things that need fixed on surface: find lube points oil pressure guage does not work, showing 0 pounds anyways you have to press horn button to start machine after keying on, I think the wiring might be all frigged up. It seems like a pretty big draw when you just key on, things are jerry rigged. It makes the same sound as if you key forward or backwards hopefully glow plugs are not running all the time oil was milky hoping it was from just short stops and starts, put fresh in but edgy about the filter type. I'm not used to bypass filters it doesn't look like they can filter much crossing fingers it's not getting water in oil, it doesn't smoke, but had some white sludgy stuff come out when changing oil. parking brake doesn't work everything else seems good enough for now. Going to go after more ATF tomorrow I used all I had on shelf, didn't seem to hardly move on dipstick at all. 5 quarts not a gallon was put in
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Back in the day when these were built Clark used the part number point system. So the same nomenclature for a part in a 2K forklift had pretty much the same point number part as a 40K machine. The difference was the serial number, this led the parts guy to the correct part number. So obviously a parts book will not have usable part numbers. That said there are a couple web sites that have parts listed by the serial group number, you will have to find one that works for you or contact a dealer. Mot of the problems that you have listed just require some logical troubleshooting. The transmission oil level (have you checked it) also supplies the torque converter so if empty it will take a few gallons. Make sure to check it with the engine running. Also it's not unusual for trans oil to leak at the final drive input (where the axle goes into the differential). And yes it is a bypass oil filter, they work fine especially on a propane truck as long as they are serviced properly.
doesn't sound like a parts book will do us much good, did an online search for "clark forklift parts by serial group" and came up short. anyone know of a place has electroinc catalogs for the older clarks? C500 Y40 serial Y355 185 3522
Give the dealer a call and have them print out a line sheet for it. That will give you a start for assemblies.
got started on it today, had some moisture in oil, hoping it's just from short starts/stops, changed tranny filter looks like it's a gallon low, looked at oil pressure gauge it has power and ground and I'm seeing a jump in ohms when machine starts so I ordered a new gauge, cranking circuit on key switch is bypassed and the horn acts as it's starter, ordered a new keyswitch, bought the planned maint book and the overhaul manual, thumbed through, sure is vague about a lot of stuff, wiring is a mad mess, alternator doesn't work, found what looks like two brown wires pig tailed together not sure what they go to but the temp gauge works OK, tooks some photos, just made it into a slideshow so you can see it, brakes work good parking brake does not https://photos.app.goo.gl/T5WH6D58CeUonGxa7
Yes, the Wix 51050 is what I would consider a by-pass style of oil filter. That filter was widely used on Continental flat-head 4 & 6 cylinders in welding machines and forklifts. We used to have a Clark forklift like yours in the fleet, I can look back in the old records and see what it listed for filters. Where the filter is located on the engine in your pictures, pretty sure that will be the right filter.
It has to be a bypass system now that I look at it. It's actually the first bypass filter and design I've studied, what a surprise when I saw those small holes. Waiting on keyswitch and oil pressure gauge. Previous owner pulled a trick and stuffed a large foil baking pan under machine stuffed with oil absorbing rags to catch the fluid from a tranny leak. Discovered while changing engine oil. Tried to pick up some 2 gallon jugs of atf at tractor supply and they were sold out. Foil pan was a hard pill to swallow.
I'm a little befuddled on what the aux position on the key switch was for or why it has one. I'm not sure if fixing the machine up is worth it at this point may just try to keep it going for now, will see how much atf it guess threw but it leaked a pretty big spot on a short time sitting in shop without the catch pan
Just from the pics you post and the remarks you made regarding fluid leakage: 1. Order a "line card" from a Clark dealer. On that card will be the part number for a wiring diagram for that truck, and the wiring harness. Plus lots of other numbers you will need. (He can get all these #'s together in his system and order together at once.) {Minimum cost.} 2. Then get the machine clear of the floor and determine WHERE the ATF is coming from. I doubt the torque converter seal is leaking in the proportions you describe. There is a trans cooling line hose from trans back to radiator, from rad fwd to filter, from filter down to control cover/trans. These start and end up low in the machine and are subject to cuts, abrasion. and rot. If this is found to be simpler than pulling the engine, you can decide to go further. {Labor effort maybe pressure wash.} Can fix and decide to keep... 3. Order a wiring harness for the truck and the wiring diagram. Reason for this cryptic advice is in years of being aware of Clark forklifts, I have never seen the odd extra solenoids appearing on yours. (Or you get the wiring diagram; remove all wiring, and with a few rolls of different colored wire and some spiral loom, rewire the machine properly. Better routing and connections and cheaper.) Question. Where are you putting all this ATF in? Should be area between the (upright to dash) and (between the drive wheels.) A rubber covered plug with a little cross piece to tighten/loosen. Twist left to loosen, pullout, look at dipstick. If empty, will hardly move for a few gallons,,, then as fills and housing narrows, will rise quickly. (RH side of truck is the Hydraulic oil tank- LH side is the gas tank for gasoline. ) Suggestion: Re do your same pictures but at a wider angle. Present one are limited in what we need to see.
Your serial number given as: Y355-185-3522 is not a good Clark number. Please recheck, make a pic of and repost. I will then get you a line card. TD24
Found the major leak. It's red starter j uice;-) that's the one that is leaking the most. Didn't see anything leaking over the starter, just following starter down and dripping. https://photos.app.goo.gl/CxXdMdgCvx4RRfLV8
C500 Y40 Y355 185 3525 someone asked about where I was putting tranny fluid in, I'm putting it in front of the mast and checking with engine running. Thinking about overfilling. Tried a new oil pressure gauge today and it didn't work. Not sure if the sender is not compatible or I received a bad gauge. I put an ohm meter on the sender wire and saw a major change from running and not running before I bought a new gauge. The old gauge red 0 all the time. New guage pegs itself then spikes back and forth quickly. Gauge I bought was a Clark 8725100. Thinking about taking a cue from previous owner and trying putting some catch pans and oil absorbent rags under machine to keep concrete clean. I think it will be ok no more than we are going to use it. Has me holding off on a restoration though. Found ATF 2 gallons for $28, bought a couple, will see how long it lasts. Found the dipstick for checking hydraulic fluid. Atf is dripping down from starter and also towards middle of machine and might be running down to drain plug. Didn't trace the middle leak to much it's not near as bad as the starter fluid drip.
Starter is a sealed starter internal and use's a gasket to the housing. Per a contact at Clark, your SN is not correct. E-mail me a corrected # and a pic of the ID plate showing it. Lacking a ID plate, examine the right hand side of outer frame surface. Will be cut there in 1 in letters/#. Email me direct at: [email protected] Just caught the SN change. I will go with it and get back to you.
Pull the starter, clean it up and make you a gasket. OEM is plastic, just tap one out of gasket paper using the housing as an anvil. Watch the bolts, one is longer, and if in wrong hole will lock converter up. OEM wiring to the solenoid is fairly tricky.. and not knowing what you have going where, be sure to record the wires and positions you remove from the solenoid when removing the starter. Free advice worth it's cost.... Fix this starter leak, pressure wash the machine, and use it a little. Those Waukesha engines have to have a good thermostat and be run up to op temp or you will have milky oil in a brand new one. It probably has the thermostat that came in it. I would drain the oil, put in 3 qts of 30 wgt and 1 of kerosene. Change filter, crank and run for 15 min or so, drain, refill with 4 qts of 30 wgt (what it uses) with a new filter. It holds 5 but no need to waste during trials. As for gauges.. Ignore them until you get it rewired. That engine runs a very low oil pressure. You have run it apparently and if it has not locked up or knocking, it is oiling. With luck I will have you a line card by Saturday so you can examine what you have.... Cheers.
I haven't every tapped a gasket out. New one to me. Plus I've always been taught not to hit on starters. Gonna try the technic out. We always traced around iwth pencil and cut out with a knife. Sometimes we would use grease or paint to make an impression. So there is supposed to be fluid behind start? Heck ya! New hopes for fixing it up. The other leak is minor compared to the one at the starter.
You are running a wet torque converter. It is essentially slinging ATF up to the nose of the starter, and with no gasket it is flooding out. Remove the starter, place a piece of gasket paper over the opening in bell housing. With small ball peen hammer, (using the peen ball) just tap around the holes. Wa La... A gasket that fits.
I have obtained a copy of your forklifts line card. E-mail me at: [email protected] , and I will send it to you.
You should Google Nash Lift Truck Supply in Nicholasville, KY. They can help you on info and probably get you any part needed for a Clark. Good people there if you know what you are asking for.. SN#/ Engine in it/ Maybe a pic of the affected area... P.S. What's strange is if it was moving itself and he added a gallon and no change? Per his prior post, it was bleeding ATF thru the starter/its gasket like a sieve.