its a clark from the 1960s would appreciate any info
Ive searched around I think its called a clipper does anyone one?
looks like clark clipper or Clark car loader had flathead engine some had power steering the pump was piggybacked off the generator was good truck can't find any that would last this long today
See Pic 1... 2 holes in frame. Large one to reach thru and grease the right tilt cylinder anchor swivel. See Pic 4... 3 countersunk bolt heads... If you scribe a rectangle from the left side of the large hole, down to level with these bolt heads, across to toward the rear of the machine, then back up to the top of frame. Somewhere in that template you will find the model/serial number (all one line) stencil cut in the frame. Truck is either a Clipper or a Carloader. Most likely a Clipper, due to its rather small steer tire size. If a Clipper, the number you find will probably be like CE (or CEC) -xxx-xxx. ( Eg: CEC-101-2030). Meaning a Clark Clipper, the 101st truck built in production run 2030... Be sure to clear before the first letter C to start, and long enough to get a complete ending number. Please post what you get, and we will try from there. It is probably on 6 volts, unless has been upgraded to 12. PS: It is possible (rare) the number may be cut in the top edge of the frame, from hyd tank back to rear.
Ref the Clark in question... You LP hose adaptation (from tank to/thru hood has been jury rigged to accommodate the taller LP bottle in use. The connections hanging in mid air should be disassembled and re mounted. The feed hose from bulkhead fitting to carb shortened, bulkhead fitting and pop off fastened on hood with a jam nut, hose from tank to bulkhead fitting lengthened to meet. Right now if you had a situation; where pop off triggered, be a lot of gas spewing alongside you right pocket if you on truck. I would position it to have pop off pointing to rear. Just an unsolicited observation-FWIW.
I understood everything except how to fasten the pop off valve. Im not sure how to go about that could you go indepth more?
Look at Pic 3. Visualize this. Close the LP tank valve. Crank and let run until it stops, to burn out gas trapped in line . (Turn off key switch.) Disconnect the hose running from tank down to the bulkhead fitting, at the bulkhead fitting. Disconnect the hose running from the carb up to the bulkhead fitting, at the swivel end to the 45 degree elbow. Now you have two loose hose ends and the bulkhead fitting with the pop off on it. Insert the bulkhead fitting in the hole in the hood. Aim the pop off to the rear. Secure it with a toothed washer and a nut. (Nut will be like one on an electrical conduit connection. (Lowes possible source if size obtainable, buy a cheap fitting to get) Drape the hose from carb up to new position of the 45 degree elbow . Can it be reconnected/arranged to not interfere with other components? If so , reconnect. If not, get a new length that will. Now your feed hose from tank will be too short. Get a longer hose made to replace or trade your large tank for a smaller one and lower your bracket connection. Some more notes... Depending on how much you use the truck at a time, a shorter tank will run usually run that Y112 engine 8 hours or more. A shorter tank will allow a better and SAFER view to the rear. In many years of this business, I have never found an LP dealer who would not trade you even, a guaranteed good small tank for the larger one you have. Decision hinges on your desires, trading ability, and effort required to lower bracket. (Bracket is not visible enough to advise.) First chance you get, find the model-serial numbers I described and post. Much more info for your exact truck in available thru it...
@2new Did you ever find a serial number on the truck?