Yep I went and got the truck, just never made it home with it “yet” asking was $6500 got it for $5250, 313k miles and I will update more specs later with pictures. Anywho about that “yet” part I’m sitting here in it about 300 miles from home off exit 200 in North Dakota after it decided after 175 miles to lose power. Started down to 55 mph and after all is said it crawled in at 5 mph, so I guess I get iron problems out on the road at midnight. Opened up water drain valve it spit some out looked like turpentine, blew the main hoses to backwards into tanks no problem, blew into PT pump it shot out fuel but still not getting up to any power. The fuel filter was dry when I opened the drain cock before starting anything and I can’t take it off just yet. So my theory is fuel filter is plugged, next one is air getting sucked in fuel lines that can’t be seen and last one is plastic wheel in the PT fuel pump is worn down. Did I miss anything? As I sit here the rig idles fine just rare lowering of RPM. Also I put some Lucas fuel treatment in and filled the tanks three quarters ways.
If the filter is dry, odds are you sucked air. Loose fittings dry rot aeroquip hoses ,that sorta thing. When you blew back towards the tank, did you hear bubbles? How many inches of fuel you got in them tanks, and are they equal?
How much fuel is coming out of the return line? Should have a good steady flow. Photo of fuel pump please to make sure it's a mechanical N14. Any back pressure or poor flow on rerturn line can cause aneroid on pump to cut fuel back, if it truly is a mechanical PT pump, even with STC.
Did they make a celect with STC? That'd be cool if someone swapped in a 400ESP+
The early N14 mechanical late 92 to early 94 were STC with a PT pump. Next thing to do is pull both fuel hoses off and bypass every thing by running it out of a bucket. But I would chance the filter at the pump is plugged full of algae crap possibly from setting or it had Bio fuel in it just setting.
Got to bed around 0100 hrs woke up around 3 when it decided to shut off from idling, cranks back up but dies in few minutes. Going to get a fuel filter while waiting for it to warm up to dig in. Not going to be easy at a truck stop doing this, was in the 20’s last night with no heat.
Yep they are close equal at about 50 gallons full and I heard bubbles in the closes tank when I blew it backwards.
You've got an obstruction somewhere. Standpipe is probably getting jammed up either on the bottom or up at the first elbow under cab. That knurled cap on the back of the fuel pump, try and tighten that by hand as much as possible. That's where the fuel filter would've originally been. That's just a bypass now and could be sucking air, it is fuel stained, so I'd start there.
Well I took it off when I blew backwards from the filter housing to the pump line to see if it would fix it. Though will tighten it more if possible. Got filter from Napa going to put it one if no go going to take all lines off and blow through and if still no go, going to get new fuel lines.
Yummy, might need two filters or three time I’m done.
Oh man that's some nasty rust ya got there. Steel tanks?
Nope, aluminum ones.
Shine a light down in the fuel tanks and see if you can see the bottom and how much scum is in the very bottom. It looks like the STC control box is just below the PT pump, follow the fuel from the box to the pump, remove that line and see if there is engine oil in that hose a #4 fitting. The STC is controlled by engine oil pressure in that box, there should be no engine oil in that fuel line. That could be why the fuel is dark.
I will do that if I can get this thing home. It’s purring like a kitten, drove 100 miles stopped for fuel for the car and now it’s overheating even though it has plenty of fluid. Guess the fan clutch is bad too or slipping on the belt. So I’m sitting here on side of road letting it cool down, what joys of fun. Two hundred fifty miles to go...
What kinda clutch kysor, Horton's? There's ways of mechanically locking them.
Could also have a viscous fan hub or the type with the air line entering the front of the hub, Kysor. Horton uses two socket head coarse 3/8 x 1 1/2 bolts in the center of the front of the fan hub to lock it. Probably the Stat is sticking, best guess. Because bobtail it shouldn't need the fan.
We're rootin' for ya spud!
If you need I have a N14 manual I can loan you.
Don't know yet, I will find out tomorrow, I'm tuckered out. It shouldn't be hitting 210 either or running at 190 then creeping up to 200 on climbs either. I heard the fan kick on it's quiet with windows up, 30 mph head wind and climbing hills doing 1700 RPM around 65 mph, though when I hit the dirt road I could hear kick on around 210/220. I got one from Manual Lib for free it was 587 pages labeled Shop Manual, though thanks for the offer I made it home!!! I think I slept about 4 hours in past 48 hours, but I made it, hell or high water, true grit here. Anywho thanks for the support guys as I cut, snip, tweak and fix things I will update on here. Pictures will come tomorrow in mean time it's time for some 130 proof bourbon so I can sleep tonight.
We got a 2 line wet line kit on here, hmm what are all possibilities I could do with this...
There is a 4 stamped over the horsepower of 330 with some other 4’s weird anywho 1350 lbs of torque, governed to 1950 rpm. Could of sworn few times I went way over 1950 rpm by accident starting off, I think something has been tweaked before me.
Usual pilot and co pilots view, I need more gauges such as boost, EGT, and maybe more accurate ones than guesstimating. That lever in the last picture I guess is a controller for how much hydraulic pressure for the lines on the wet kit. There is 44 inches in width on the sleeper and I got up on the roof an thought to myself, hmm how many solar panels can I put up here. Answer is 6 which with a Anderson connection I can supplement my current solar panel system from 1200 watts to 1800 watts and when on the road I can run stuff inside the cab without idling all night plus a 2kw to 3kw genset could run a small AC, yep the wheels are turning in my head...
Took a look at it and it's a Kysor, looks to be air driven with the line entering the back of it towards the engine.
Did you determine if the clutch failed or was it belt slip?
That's a whole helluva lotta HE!! YEAH. If that was a day cab , I think it would be a road boss or road boss II
No I heard it kick on around 210 degrees, it's running at 190 and climbs up to 220 if not careful then the fan kicks on, something else is going on i.e. wore out coolant, bad water pump or running really lean. Belts feel tight unless I'm missing something. Yeah it's a heavy duty one, both rear axles are at 19k front one is at 12k geared to 3.08 with 9 speed that sounds like is going out. Every time I let off the throttle and coasting down a hill or something I feel/hear clunking noise in the transmission, need to check center carriage bearing and U joints to make sure. Right now wife is cleaning it out, let her have fun
Take a good look at the outside of radiator core. With the air charge cooler and AC denser in front of core and those are probably dirty also it really taxes the cooling system. On a rig of that age the outside of the core is probably 35% plugged. People don't have tendency of removing the air charge cooler to pressure wash the radiator core. On the grain trucks we use to take care of it was a yearly task to remove the ACA and pressure wash the cores. They would run pretty warm on a flat empty as soon as a grade came up the temp would climb. The fan temp switch is more than likely a 210* switch you can install a 200 or 205* also. Read the tag on the Injector pump and lets see what it says, it should have the same CPL number. Even though it's governed at 1950 you can still over rev in the lower gears.
With 3.08 rears it's probably got a direct RTX 1609P or a RTX 14609P Eaton gear box. Does the shifter move back and forth when on off the throttle?
No it holds still and it's a RT-13709H, barely rated enough for the torque. There is a PTO on it too for the wet kit. Good place to look on being clogged sounds like some tractors I know working in the fields. Helps to have multiple inputs on what can be wrong unless one has a list. Lastly damn it stinks inside the cab of wet dog and **** what the hell was in that cab, as it got warmer it was really reeking.
With it being a 9H gear box, it has a 1.00 ratio in high. With 3.08 gears normal factory gearing is direct with those rears. But I would suspect It was spec'ed as a Midwest Flat Lander. As far as the rating on torque that's pretty standard for the factory to install a gear box with same torque spec's as engine. Unless it was custom spec'ed. Mouse ****?
Those plastic surge tanks have a tendency to not hold pressure. The fill cap(green cap) doesn't seal right most of the time, the low coolant sensor also allows pressure loss. I don't know if there is aftermarket available for it. I changed a lot of those tanks. Between that and all that truck shop mentioned , just some good ol maintenance an she'll be right as rain. Hopefully
Do you know what the truck was used for before you bought it? Depending on how the PTO pump is set up that lever in the center will be up/down for a dump body or forward/reverse for a hydraulic driven accessory. I wouldn't be surprised if what you are smelling is an invasion of mice
I believe it's mouse **** as I found droppings in there, but I surely smell the wet dog smell. It's really ominous over the mouse smell which I am familiar with. As for the gearing it goes as following 13.29 9.16 6.53 4.80 3.57 2.57 1.83 1.34 1.00 Oh it's definitely not holding pressure come to think about it, not worried I will go through it from bumper to bumper with time as I did the last one that I currently use. Some stuff can be fixed and noticed right away other stuff will get done as needed. Was used as hauler for a farm that had a dump trailer it towed which is use of the joystick, but after that it was bought as truck/trailer combo the guy wanted the trailer and gave the truck to his son and he decided he wanted a automatic so never drove it. Though before that I seen a Ryder inspection sticker on one of the glider flares on the back of the cab so I think that's where it originated from.
Found the problem on not holding pressure, the green cap in the expansion tank for the coolant rubber gasket is hard and bent in couple spots. Found one for $20 online, the cap is around $35 and the tank with the caps is $75, so I'm buying just the cap gasket. How high up from the ground is this deck on one of these? https://www.govplanet.com/jsp/s/item/3284769?kwtag=p13n-SL&h=
Well, the tires are 42", just guessing the deck is about 52". I have a '92 daycab version of that. Mine is speced a mite heavier, though. A 3406c at 400hp, a low-hole 9-speed, and 46k full locking rears with 5.3? gears, and, oddly enough, an 11700 lb steer axle. The electrical systems on those trucks suck, but, so far I haven't found any parts my local Volvo dealer can't get, though I do sometimes have to bat my eyes at the parts lady to get her to dig that deep in the computer.
Odd axle spec, must be spec'd off tire sizes for that front axle. Sounds likes you are spec'd for heavy and slow hauling with that set up or made for the mountains.What electronic parts you have trouble finding? Cats aren't really my engine, I purposely looked for other than that along with other engines. Either had to have Cummins or Detroit in it.
That was the predicesser. Road Boss logo went away around the time Volvo got in the game. Your engine has high flow cooling and a charge air cooler. I saw an industrial engine sister rated at 550 HP @ 2400 or 2450 RPM. For emissions some truck engines fans did not engauge until at least 215 degrees.
I will at least try to get it up to 400 hp after that I don't need anymore power. I'm going to 5200 this lid closed till I get the new gasket in and see if that helps, if not then on with next place of reason causing it to run up so high. I can understand it not cutting on till it gets up there, just doing 30 mph and it shouldn't go that high bob tailing.
Where would be good spot online to find some steer tires for this rig, Usually get mine off simpletire.com but am open for suggestions on places that might be better. Shopping around town isn't a option here and I ain't driving to Billings 150 miles away. Need some 22.5's
Guess no one buys tires online here looks like anywho... Yep oil in the STC fuel line and it randomly shuts off so I'm guessing that's also a reason it shuts off along with dark looking diesel fuel.
I hit the like button but that doesn't mean i like your STC control box issue. Those are non repairable and 20 years ago that control was $900.00. I think the max that engine can be turned up is 370 Hp, if it was factory set at 370 hp it could be boosted to 435 hp. I think there is a piston, injector, turbo change to go over 370. As far as tires let me do a little work I might be able to come up with something, 11.00 22.5 or 295/75 22.5?
Yep 11R22.5 don't worry no offense taken on the like button you got to try a lot harder than that to offend or "trigger" me and I understand it. I think the lack of power I am feeling is the lack of a STC so I should be fine with the given power under the hood. As for the STC, if one can't find one and can't be rebuilt then what does one do to remedy the problem? This is what I found on two websites https://www.dieselpartsdirect.com/ds3803282 https://highwayandheavyparts.com/i-14771070-3803282-cummins-n14-stc-valve-repair-kit-new.html
Apparently there is a repair kit available, some years back there wasn't. But here is a link for repair info. https://www.scribd.com/document/252576504/STC-Oil-Control-Valve-Mechanical-006-007-K38-K50
Got the kit on the way and going to try and do this without signing up to see how this is done.
Found a free version... Also found out if I can't rebuild it, that's $1200 plus for new one. https://idoc.pub/download/stc-oil-control-valve-mechanical-006-007-k38-k50-34m75xqzdm46
Good on the free version, not surprised on the price. The $900.00 was 2000 price on the last one I did. I laugh when I hear that Cummins are cheap to repair, no different than Cat.
Maybe cheaper when comparing one part to another but, if you sat there and itemized every part and ran a average they would come out the same price. Never seen one engine cheaper than another to repair, if that was true then everyone else would be out of business unless you had to repair it more often than not and the savings aren't worth it.
The old 2-stroke Detroits were always cheaper to rebuild.
Small cam and Big Cam mechanical Cummins are cheap if you only use aftermarket parts [885 average inframe kit $1,350.} Heads years back were $200 to 225 now average $500 each. Rebuilt injectors were $35 for years now $60 to $65, injector pump $365 now $575. Inflation.
That still sounds cheap for a rebuilt injector pump, compared to the cost of some.
Yeah I suppose it's pretty reasonable by today's standards, But I think free would be better yet.
Now I just need to find a book on the wiring of this semi. Ebay yielded no results, there is a sensor on the expansion tank that seems disconnected along with two wires bolted together going nowhere and few other wires to nowhere. I can only imagine where else some of these wires are not going. 94 Volvo White/GMC WIA
That's what I was talking about when I said the electrical systems on these trucks were a nightmare. Mine has absolutely nothing electronic on it but the instrument cluster, which didn't work when I bought it, is only used in '92s, is obsolete in the parts system, and no cluster repair people will look at it. I have basically redone everything electrical on the truck the way I think it should have been done to start. I bought this truck cheap, I knew the retiring owner well, he bought it from a state agency that is fanatical about maintenance, and it had just over 100,000 miles on it. I gave $7500 for a heavy spec lowboy truck in great ship except the electrical. I don't put 10,000 miles on it in a year.
Wouldn’t be so bad if the previous owner kept his dick beaters off the wiring and let qualified person fix the problem not put jumper wires on certain things and just unplug all other things. Seems I need to just pull the Kysor shutdown system off, wire in a manual override switch for the cooling system inline with the temp sensor that turns it on and put aftermarket gauges in. Snip Snip, now should I cut the blue wire or red wire
Now where does this go? Some rigging here, looks someone added a manual fan switch Looks as if this wire goes on the back of the alternator and broke off?
First pic, wires screwed together goes to low coolant sensor in tank . Those two tin strips poking out. They never work. Second pic, looks like someone bypassed thermo switch for fan clutch. Third pic, if I was guessing, maybe an aux feed for maybe a preheat relay or something along those lines.
I second Mitch 504 on the electrical problems on these years. Actually it's hard to get or non existent on instrument clusters for them also for most any years. I had one that I built a cluster panel out of 1/8" aluminum and installed all new gauges, plus electronic speedo and tach I used from a 82 KW cab over. I just installed the basic gauges needed. And that truck only had 350,000 on it. It really wasn't that bad of a job. The other area for electrical issues was the hood harness. As far as main engine wiring most were ok in that area.
Whatever wire that’s for by the alternator it sure is a live one. Weird part it’s only putting out 12.3V while alternator is pushing 14.1V. Anywho found a secret switch under the dash that engages the clutch on the fan to manually turn it on. Ran it for a bit and still just dies if I slightly push it past 1000 rpm and let off, does it on first time or second time, or it does it when stepping on the pedal. All fluid temperatures and pressure look fine, idles at 15 psi and staying under 180 degrees, I would say loss of fuel pressure or the Kysor system messing up. There is no rev up like when I introduce air in the fuel or nothing just flat lines which has me leaning towards Kysor system. When it dies I have to wait at least 20 to 30 seconds or it isn’t firing up, could be loss of ability to suck fuel.
Mine is a mechanical 3406 so my engine harness only has to be alternator, starter, and fuel solenoid. All the lighting was totally screwed up on mine.
Sorry to hear about the troubles with the new rig @Spud_Monkey . I'm sure you'll get it straightened out like your other rig though.
I live for this **** though thanks Hows the job hunting go or you just taking a break? I have narrowed it down to fuel solenoid or the Kysor system. There is a screw on back side of the solenoid when screwed in it won't let the fuel shut off solenoid turn the engine off if a signal is sent, and well it ran fine, so time for process of elimination. Seems the other oil field worker that was coming out here every Thursday either finally got furloughed, laid off or bored with his new toy he didn't show up today, darn.
Yeah they managed to pull a light wires out, no biggie for me. Don't worry I will have the same engine wiring harness when done. Have no problems with my DT466 that way so why should this be any different...
With the current situation in Michigan, there isn't anything happening until May 15th right now, unless you farm. I've spent time working on my basement and helping my grandpa in the fields. Always something for me to do. I'll be moving some dirt here soon once things dry up a bit.
On the top of the PT fuel pump is where the fuel shut off solenoid is located, one wire to it. On the front side of the solenoid is a manual thumb screw, screw it in and it is in manual mode. You can't shut the engine off with the key in manual mode, you have to screw it back out to kill the engine. But try running it in manual mode, Those fuel shut off solenoids are notorious for various running issues. Mitch 504 can tell you all about his fist fight he had with one. I always carried a spare with me on the road.
That's good on keeping busy, makes days go by quicker and keeps the mind right. We already are moving dirt here, two shovels at a time, me and the wife been digging our cellar out by shovel hehe. First foot is nice then becomes hard solid clay sandstone like. Nice new picture, yeah it's exactly what I did, screwed it all the way in. Had flashbacks screwing that thing in, took a RPG in the side of M813 that I was driving that had a NH250 Cummins don't know what happened except for wouldn't start afterwards while L shape ambush kicked off screwed it in and it fired up. I remembered from motor pool when giving us a run down to screw that in if it shuts down and if it doesn't start then time to throw a pyro on it when **** and pop smoke.
Wonder what would happen if I stuck this here dime in the return fuel line on this N14 hmm hang on!!!!
BAD MONKEY BAD! Be sure it has a hole in it if you do that. I am not sure what size but with no hole it will runaway. I know this because a mud dobber filled up a return line during an engine swap. That was exciting. But if you are going to do stuff like that I will share these. If you use needle nose pliers on the return line you can gradually tighten them until you like it or it blows up. One of my all time favorites was the dial a RPM all thread rod screwed in the governor housing. Must have ran a tap in the hole for the plug? About 6 inches of rod sticking out the back with a jam nut to the housing. There are better ways.
Yes there is better ways, I was also thinking of replacing the return fuel line with longer one and run it into the cab, just step on it with my boot heel with pressure as needed
I think I am in the market for new transmission for this N14 STC manual engine. When I first start off it can shift into gear fine, there is no clutch brake and if there is one it's missing. Anywho, no manuals for the transmission so I can find for part numbers for whatever parts I may need, the gearing me off (due to having to switch from low to high constantly when driving around i.e. city), it's as if it was never built. You cannot float the gears in it, you must push the pedal in to shift and lastly no overdrive. So where does one start to find another transmission? Current POS transmission in there is RT13709H with a PTO attached to the bottom that I have no use for.
I'm assuming you already verified that the PTO is not engaged. Do you have to use excessive force to change gears while traveling? Is it a particular set of gears or all? I once had a twisted main shaft, on the bench everything shifted beautifully. In use , once out of the first gear selection, you fought. In the middle of the second overhaul, I placed the bare shaft on the brand new bench, it wouldn't sit still. Found shaft twisted(by accident) only a couple thousandths. Never woulda found out if not for that shiny new bench.
I have excessive strength so I couldn't tell you that though seems to shift harder than my FS6206A Eaton which I can't compare it to since that is a fully synchronized transmission. Though in my opinion I think it should shift smoother, not push then jerk into gear and it does it with all of them. I am uploading a video as we speak of it's problems. Was pulling a tree when I took the video and driving through a valley offroad but you get the scenario of what is the problems when I post the video. Does fine first few minutes then says F U intermittently, it's like it gets stuck between gears.
BTW, that trans should have a clutch brake. Non-synchro trans , you shouldn't have to pull very hard to come out or go in provided your timing is right. It should, as you say , float between. I dont believe the sliding dogs are back cut, I believe they're straight. Truck shop or DMiller would know for sure.
Video will show on it, 16% uploaded. Slow pigeons uploading the file...
10 speed C-like a 16210C it has a lower 1st gear like a 13 speed with a .74 over drive. And you shouldn't have to alter drive line. As far as shifting hard those rigs had a long off set sh!ter I mean shifter. And people had a tendency of forcing shifts which wears the shift blocks not to mention the sliding clutches. Check the isolater mid way on the shift lever.
So when I get extra money buy one of these https://www.vanderhaags.com/detailview.php?part=24867467 rip the sh!ter out and put a straight one in. No isolator or anything midways on the shifter and if there is a clutch brake that should be on this transmission can I just slap a 2" one on or is there a certain part number I should look up? So far at 34% uploading video, someone shot the pigeon carrying the message out the sky, had to start it over uploading.
Install a Babcock SB200 clutch brake for now. Have someone hold the pedal down to keep it in place while you drive the pins in.
I went from an NTC to an 14L Detroit. Cussed it all the way to south Florida and back before I discovered it liked to shift at 1300 RPM and would pull at those low RPMs If you are coasting and need to get out of gear just ease on the throttle a bit. It should come out of gear with slight pressure as you let off. Just saying maybe work with it some before you condemn it. Some things like a snap ring can cause a problem like that. Might want to get it checked out before you buy a transmission.
Only mash the pedal all the way to the floor when stopped. Maybe you know all that and just have equipment problems. Just trying to help.
My experience, get the clutch brake fixed when the truck is down for service, works great for a couple weeks until some other driver borrows the truck...back to grinding at every stoplight....
Here is the video, didn’t get it up to speed just pulling a tree across the yard through a valley and losing traction while doing so.
And just blip the clutch after you get going or float them My main reason to having PTSD from war is us infantrymen in outbreak of war in OIF had no supplies and lacking people to drive if we had the equipment to get around. I drove everything that had steering wheel and learned how to get in and out situations no matter the cost which lead me to many more missions than one usually does without sleep. Point being their Kamaz's and Scanias drove better than this. I didn't go through CDL school to learn a stick in a semi nor did anyone teach me, it was do or die when the first time came around to learn it.
It is normal for them not to want to go into gear when the engine is not running or when the input shaft is completely stopped like that. You may need to release the clutch just a tiny bit to get things to move into a different position if everything is at a stop and you are trying to get it in low gear for instance. The sliding teeth just sometimes get into a position where they butt against each other instead of each tooth going into its socket and just need to be repositioned. If you have the engine stopped and you really want to get it in gear then if you have air pressure you can flip the selector valve up and down with the clutch in while trying to move it into whatever position you are trying. Hopefully this explanation makes sense.
A shop photo of main shaft, counter shafts and sliding clutches.
Found the clutch brake caked in grease but it's up there with over half inch of spacing, more like 3/4. Will take the gas axe and cut it out. Got one from Babcock on the way, thanks Truck Shop and for everyone else's help. Will see where this goes and hope it prolong enough time to get another transmission that's better than this one.
I read through the trans posts, one thing to remember is if you push the clutch all the way to the floor while moving in gear you are trying to stop the truck with the clutch brake. i didn't see that mentioned before. Just something to think about when you get the new one installed. With a little practice you will get the hang of way it works.
Be careful the slag has a way of finding your ears, don't nick the input shaft with the flame. Some years back I replaced a B model cat in a 379 Pete that broke the input shaft, they drove it several hundred miles that way to get it home. The shaft broke at an angle and worked it's way forward pushing on the crank which took out the thrust bearings and destroyed the crank and block. The input shaft broke where a flame cut it while trying to replace the clutch brake, that work was done on the road a few months before. Plus it ruined the main shaft in the transmission. $29,000 dollars later all was good.
When welding or running the gas axe I always wear earplugs cause I can hear the weld/cut better and know what is going on by the sound. Sounds like expensive mistake. I will be running a number 1 tip to cut it, might not even hit the trigger, just enough to soften it and split it with a chisel.
I have faith you'll get it done there spud_monkey.
Oh fudge, I hope you didn't cut it out already. Did you reach up and try to spin the steel part on the input shaft. If the little tits aren't broken, there's no need to replace. Clutch adjustment is in order. 3/4 inch is too much gap with the pedal up. Should be 1/2 - 9/16". Once you've established clearance, get 1/8" between fork and release bearing. This should get you 1 1/2 to 2" free travel at the pedal. You should be releasing the clutch brake 1/2" off the floor. The only time you should use the clutch is to get moving. That's it. Once yer rollin' you just row through the gears. No clutch. I know some guys preach double clutching, I never learned, haven't found a need. Maybe, and it kinda looks that way from the video, you're trying to shift like it's a synchronized trans. Forget that left pedal as soon as you're in motion.
As he said! Adjust it. The place to start is on the pressure plate not the likage. Double clutch or no clutch after take off.
I was using it cause I had to stop and start, in the beginning it was pull the tree forward then release the clutch to let it roll back then wife unhooked it and hooked it back up so I could pull the tree under the cable while she held it up. Bunch of low gear and reverse is all I shifted to. A few times it was to make the problem happen to show everyone what was going on, other times is as I am pulling this 40' tree across the property the semi loses traction going up a hill so I release clutch let it roll back hit brakes let off slowly on clutch till it engages and slowly release brakes or put back in reverse stop then go forward to give it another yank. Gee I should of taken the video on a flat top road to show I know how to shift. Haven't cut it out yet, things happen in slow motion out here with ease. You need a part such as a clutch brake or can of paint you either (A) Order it in and wait week or two for it then walk or drive 5 miles to get it from mailbox or (B) Wait till next trip into town which is once every week or two sometimes 4 weeks and get it then, need a gallon of milk real quick, tough titty said the kitty ain't happening soon or get a cow. Plus I buy parts and make sure they are right one then pull the old one. Going in town is 106 mile round trip Speaking of which I need some oxy acetylene and that ain't happening till Thursday or Friday next week
To make a little sense of my ramblings
Truck Shop posted a sticky on this though thanks for the clarification.
Found my problem, seems the output shaft bearing on the yoke is gone out or somewhere in the transmission which is reason I’m having trouble shifting after I get going. The problem of putting it in gear to start off is from either clutch brake or clutch out of adjustment which I just did moving it two spaces over. Here is the evidence of the problem. Wonder how long I got till it goes¿ Let me know if I’m right on the bearing gone out somewhere.
The rear out-put shaft bearing is a one piece dual race with inner and outer bearing cones machined to match their prospective race. With a machined bearing spacer between the two bearing cones. So when the gland nut is tightened on the yoke {450 lb ft} the bearing pre-load is automatically set. It is not uncommon for the glad nut to get loose-How much up and down-in and out movement is there on the yoke? If the out-put shaft bearings are lunched, then its back section off and inspection of what's needed. Even after market parts are not cheap, this is when turning in what you have as a core and picking up another gear box is less hassle. 9's & 10's are fairly common and usually not too expensive.
if the back bearings are shot wouldn't we have oil runnin everywhere provided there is oil in the box?
And you would have bad low/high shift. Loud clunk , crappy synchro engagement, oil slobber, grinding high/low selection. Has it been like this since you got it, or did this suddenly happen? I'm kinda wondering if someone has the wrong length detent springs under the shift lever
The oil slobber part is the very troubling part. Unless it is all gone. But there isn't even any sign of it. Looks like it would hurt to grease the driveline a bit.
Meritor floating seal sure is keeping it dry .It's hard to argue with those images.
That last photo-the yoke has been hitting the mounting bolts for the rear bearing retainer. I have seen extremely loose yokes and the rear seal doesn't leak.. The counter shafts are what's holding the shaft straight. But low/high range should be effected in some way. Rear sections can develop a bunch of play and still operate unlike the front section.
It's been happening since I gotten it with less than 1000 miles since I got. I figured the engine was the only selling point and a rolling chassis is like a building block for future endeavors or parts for another project I want. I need to look inside, this rig has only 332k miles on it, I feel this rig was rode hard and put away wet. I will pull the universal joint and the center carriage bearing off tomorrow and see how much play, then see how low fluid is. Guess time for road trip in next month or two to Sioux SD. Also it will be a bit of hassle with PTO system on the bottom, have to plug the air lines off to it.
it sure is hitting something . I would bet on low or no oil too
I hate to admit it but I drove the pete in my avatar 6 miles without ANYoil in the trans . it had leaked out through the pto seal over about 3 month sitting . cranked her up and took off without even thinking it let me know it very quickly.
Welp it has about 500 mile journey on it since I bought it so if leaked out during that trip I don't think she would of made it home and I sure would of noticed a wet spot on the rubber mat underneath she parks over. Though will double check tomorrow.
if it has a mounted pto its very possible. would dump the oil from the very lowest point
Usually the first bearings to take a dump with a low oil situation is the rear main shaft support bearing and input shaft bearing next would be the upper counter shaft bearings.
If has never had a input shaft replaced likely also has step wear at the disc hub locations, those tend to drag pretty serious as clutch wears.
Tightened the clutch up to spec still grinding when going in reverse or whatever gear for starting off. While down there I noticed the drive shaft has been replaced with a remanufactured Meritor on it at some point which with a semi of 332k miles. I like to know what happened to merit a replacement, that took talent to cause premature failure. Also while down there I took a paint marker and marked the wear on the bolt heads and on the yoke then took it for a spin, nothing rubbed the paint off, so I assume it need a load to make any movement if there will be any.
Was there any friction material left on both sides of the clutch brake? Also the possibility the pilot bearing is seized. Should be some lining/friction surface like the one below, if it's metal on metal it won't stop the in put shaft from turning. Plus without the lining it will cause internal clutch adjustment to be wrong.
Yep there is little bit of material left, not much and looks glazed as hell and flush with the surface. A 2D picture doesn't quantify how thick it should be, but I will know Friday when I get the new one in. Let's see if I can get a picture...
This is from memory but I think the material is only 1/8 to 3/16 thick when new. Since I have gotten into working on equipment there is only one thing I hate worse than trucks and that is truck drivers. Not all bad but just some can really get under your skin.
Sure isn't any 1/8 or 3/16 worth under there. This is what is there
Looks like it could use a new one. Truck Shop will be the one to ask about adjusting things when you get it replaced. I am sure he could dial that right in for you. Did you happen to check the oil in the transmission while you were under there. Just the drag from the oil can help slow things down a bit.
Well that One piece clutch brake is about toast, sorry. But one thing I see using my bionic eye is the front bearing retainer is beveled {so it appears} on the inside area next input shaft. That area is normally flat straight across to shaft. It appears that the clutch brake material on that side has been gone for some time and has been whittling the retainer surface. That actually is not uncommon when clutch has been out of adjustment and people keep pushing it down harder trying to get it in gear. That happened long before you got it. Plus the T/O bearing was probably not greased very often which is the only from of grease the clutch brake sees. When greasing there should be a small bubble of grease pushed out each time, that provides lube for the clutch brake which it does need . Also it looks like there is a lip on the outside of the bearing retainer. Any-whoo that front retainer is going to need replacing in the future. The lining on the clutch brake including both sides is 1/8"-1/16" per side.
I really did not want to be the guy that said this but here goes . we have a 94 pete with 1.474.974 miles on it im betting your332k includes that first mil. also
I told myself that already so we are in the same boat, it's a digital odometer so I'm looking online to see if there is 7 digits on the odometer. Seems reasonable to me though that means the people at the auction block who sold it to previous owners were lied to also or purposely sold it off as such.
Now-I do have a Super 10 speed B transmission that I will check out in the morning, it was a good gear box when I removed it to install a 13 speed. The Super 10's have a low of around 12.33 and a over drive of .74. Some people liked them some didn't you only shift manually 5 times but you flip the shift control and split each gear. It can be shifted just like any other Roadranger without using clutch. If it still checks out and you are interested {YOU CAN HAVE IT-FREE}. There not worth much [about what scrap is paying right now]. But for what your going to use it for you might get some use out of it. All clutch linkage will fit, sh!ter will fit, the only thing you will have to do is shorten the drive shaft and reuse yoke on shaft. I will check it first thing in the morning.
When I greased it I seen it push some black grease out, I now have some Lucas Oil high temp red grease in there as someone put a extension tube to make it easy to grease. As for shortening the drive shaft if that transmission checks out might be not easy, but I think I could get it done in Washington state which is ironic I need to head there anyways to get my stuff out the state (one day) hopefully before winter hits. I was going to get the other one you were talking about, but if that one works sure why not.
After turning it off and on I can see it's impossible for it to read million miles and the hour meter says it's at 2570 hrs. which who knows how tired this engine is.
I pulled the shift bar housing cover, everything looks good inside. This gear box is a International re-man. It's complete with yoke which takes a 1760 half round u-joint.
Got a picture of the tag on it of specs?
It's a RTLO14610BPR-Plenty big for your engine. I will post photos when I get home.
Thanks, yep it has 1000 more ft lbs of torque capacity and it's exactly 3.5 inches longer than my current one. Sounds as if it might fit without modification.
U joint is probably a different size. I Had to buy a different trans yoke when I did something like that. Still no big deal.
photos-Only major thing to check is that the shift tower sets to the rear like this one.
Looks to match up except the yokes. Had to change yokes too on this other rig I put a transmission in. Anywho I have a 1800 looks to be yoke here, hard to tell without tearing it apart.
Measure outside to outside of yoke ears where u-joint caps bolt to yoke-1810 series was common on Volvo.
That sounds about right, I'm sure you are right. Didn't want to get all up the mess before supper, just grabbed a picture real quick. Looks as if they lost both drive shafts at some point, found another sticker. That took talent to f up.
Some have quite a FUp Talent. Seen those could destroy an armored car with a leather glove.
Welp it will be around September or October before I could head to SE Washington. In the middle of a pole barn build and want to wait till it's done before heading to Washington state which on the trip I need to buy a 40' to 45' flatbed for the rig somewhere along the way and then pick my stuff up out of storage on the Olympic Peninsula. What city are you in?
Walla Walla-I might-I say might be able to get it hauled to Harden on a bee truck in the next couple of weeks.
Guess I better get busy building a wooden flatbed for this semi, cause it sure as hell ain't going in the back of a Subaru. It could hold the weight but getting in there would be problem. Needed to build one anyways just was waiting on saw milling equipment that I got in yesterday. Went and picked up lumber yesterday and was sticker shocked for $4.50 for 2 x 4 x 8 board, I ran out the door and thought damn I'm going to have to build this with what trees are here.
Hardin-not Harden.
It's okay I can tell from context clues on misspelling and out of context wording. It's about 160 miles from me which I am more than grateful for.
My 90 model has 7 digits. Not sure why they would drop one in a newer truck
Is the Purple Cow still there ? Camped at the koa there many moons ago
Cause yours is mechanical mine is digital.
Look what I got in now just need rain to stop. Comparing this one to my old one, yep the old one is shot.
Best way to remove the old one is with a 3/4" or 1" extension and a breaker bar. No chance of getting the shaft with torch and no molten metal/grease running down on you
That ain't happening, don't have any extensions here of that size and can't wait two weeks for one to get here as this town would charge one $30 over price of one "if one could find one here". Though thought about heating it up till it was soft then push a chisel through it.
please explain? I am not seeing this in my head and am interested how that would work.
Can you explain that a little more please? I suit up and cut one side. Turn the shaft 180 and cut the other side. Pretty good with a torch but it is never any fun. Always open to better ideas.
Take an old extension and cut/grind a notch 1/4"-3/8" wide and 1&1/2"-2" deep in the male end. Slide the extention up and get the brake into the notch. Put a breaker bar on the female end of extention and twist back and forth to break the brake into 2 pieces. Mine is out in my truck but will post pics tomorrow
Do you have any bar stock or old sockets or anything. I just know how miserable overhead cutting is
Doing some online shopping this evening so had to go out and get my billfold anyway. Here is a pic of it
Now that I see the concept I have something. If it doesn't want to work I will go back the other way. Great idea. There is a special place in hell for those who make one piece clutch brakes.
Have seen a lot of 2 piece brakes fly apart. I actually prefer the 1 piece. If driven and used correctly the one piece should last the life of the clutch
Then on that note I should be replacing the whole clutch too cause I sure don't know how or who drove it last. One piece at a time...
Downfalls of used trucks...
The two piece below will fly apart, the pin type wont. The one below is junk. Removing a trans to replace a clutch brake that can be repaired with a SB 200 is a bunch of work for nothing. {If} is the problem.
Good info here. My grandpa has two Mack CH600 trucks, and the clutch brake is out on both of them. The one I did, back when he got the truck because I didn't know how to properly clutch a big truck. I've learned a lot about heavy trucks since then. Reading this discussion has given me the knowledge now to go fix the truck I broke, now that I'm aware of how easily it can be repaired. I had no idea Thanks for the knowledge and please, keep sharing your tips and tricks. I really appreciate it, and I'm sure others do too.
Have to say holding this SB200 is pretty heavy compared to what is in the semi now. The lock design on the tabs plus pins has me confident it will hold.
That one piece that's in there now is a basically a piece of tin with a 3/16" formed piece with tangs. With the 200 style you just make a shallow cut on each side where the pins are and out it comes.
I’m pretty confident the notched socket/extension idea wouldn’t work on this clutch brake given the 3/16th this metal ring in it. So try it at your own risk, I did and ended up with carnage. Don’t worry I didn’t nick the input shaft with the gas axe, I just stenciled my initials instead in it
Yep, those are hard to chisel let alone twist them into. Good job spud.
https://missoula.craigslist.org/hvo/d/paradise-1992-volvo-parting-out/7126647382.html
Thanks, I have decade or two of experience with gas axe, I can make them sing a tune without squeezing the trigger on them in precision work and know when to back off and let things cool down. Right up there with welding aluminum, get to certain temp time to back off. Anywho, nothing in that pile of junk on that listing worth driving for, though appreciate the outlook of finding it. I surely don't want the transmission in that one lol, this one irritates me enough. Took rig out for spin finally getting into gears for most part, though surely doesn't want to come out of them without a clutch disengagement.
Try tapping the throttle. I prefer double clutching and or no clutch with those transmissions.
The current truck I’m driving if you don’t use the jake when you shift you have to fight it but it came out of Texas oil fields before this company bought it so who knows how it was treated had locks on the fifth wheel for an end dump
No jakes on this one, though sure wish it did.
I like drivers that leave the jake on continuous even when empty. It just works the hell out of the dampening springs in the clutch discs. Got one that parks in our yard, a 379 with 7" stacks he just loves listening to the rumble. He is on his second clutch in 3 1/2 years. 650 hp Cat that is in a shop as I type on it's second head and set of liner packs in two years. It's a money maker.
Well Truck Shop looks as if I will be swinging through Walla Walla in the next week if that transmission offer is up. Got a text calling me out of retirement for short run to save someone in a bind. I would be using the semi it needs to go into.
How much should I offer for this trailer and would putting a high cube shipping container on it put me over 14'? https://wenatchee.craigslist.org/hvo/d/malaga-trailer-comet-40-semi-flatbed/7158947398.html
I worked with a manager that said" I have a driver that can use the Jake Brake going down hill in a cow pasture" I LOL. Six months or a year later I was out to look at a application machine. Bwap, Bwap, Bwap. See: I told you! Down hill in a cow pasture. It was true.
Best to look at what others are going for-most of it depends the deck and how much rust/rot there is. As far as height that depends on whether it has low pro 22.5's or farmer tires 11.00 24.5's. Offer stands.
I will have a 1810 yoke here to swap out and change it for you if that's the one you need on the transmission. If your coming into town from the east-whether from Spokane down through Colfax, Dusty, Dayton or Missoula, Lewiston, Clarkston over Lolo pass you will take the second exit. G Street exit on the right by Pacific Power, follow it around back toward the blue water tower, take a left on Lear the yard is on the corner of Lear and E Street. The shop is on the east side of the yard.
I will have a 1810 yoke here to swap out and change it for you if that's the one you need on the transmission. If your coming into town from the east-whether from Spokane down through Colfax, Dusty, Dayton or Missoula, Lewiston, Clarkston over Lolo pass you will take the second exit. G Street exit on the right by Pacific Power, follow it around back toward the blue water tower, take a left on Lear, shop/yard is at the next stop sign on the corner of Lear and E Street. You can't miss it Bruce Springsteen and the E street band will be playing.
Looks like you get to meet the “Mystery Ship” as me and the wife came to a consensus we will be taking that rig first to set base in Washington state then get the other semi later to haul stuff out. We should be lifting anchor in the next 2 to 3 days.
Seem to be having problems with random shut off, I think it’s the fuel solenoid cut off switch getting warm and shutting the rig down. No warning just straight out flat line dead stick I mean dead pedal. When it does it I shut it off as I cruise down the interstate put it in neutral wait a few seconds and crank it up and pick speed back up. Running a round 190 degrees at hottest. Wonder if this might have a hand in the fun, sure wish I had AC right about now.
Turn the manual screw on the front of solenoid, if it stays running then it's the fuel shut off solenoid or power supply.
Wish had crossed thru Walla Walla when I was in SLC, we most often crossed up thru Boise to turn north to Kennewick then on to Spokane or Seattle from there. Partners home base was Portland, truck and reciprocity I bought were Red River Trucking Portland.
I was trying to avoid that. It decided to do that as I was passing two Montana state troopers on side of the road, talk about a oh **** moment . Last thing I need is to attract attention.
Yes on the over height with a regular height trailer. You can get under a lot of bridges but you best be reading the height signs. Driver missed his exit here and pealed his container off filled with boxes of new Nikes.
A bit late but at least never though... I went with a regular 40’ 2011 PJ trailer with gooseneck hitch, changed pin out to king pin welded a new tube for it and they already had it wired up for semi 7 pin. Headed to pick it up now...
Semi 7 pin or RV Flat Pin seven pin?
Semi 7 pin. Now if I can just find out what causing it to lurch in the first few gears Seems to pull out at high RPM and high gears, must be fuel problem. Already have new fuel filter, wonder if the fuel cut off switch is playing games.
My be sucking air somewhere along a line.
If it's sucking air it will have poor throttle response, won't drop to idle as usual and sometimes idle slightly high around 750 instead of 600. Easy way to tell if sucking air on a Cummins 855 with PT pump, using a tubing/flare wrench 1/2" and hold the fitting in top of solenoid {loosen the fitting {it's the injector feed line} just barely enough to make the fuel crown right at the top of flare nut without causing engine to stumble}. And it should show only clear solid fuel, if it looks like a very small amount of foam then it has a issue before the pump. Motor mounts any good?
To add more fun to the mix of this road trip, radiator is clogged on the front. Need to find a car wash to squeeze in to Motor mounts aren’t busted, they are of their age good and the fuel line bleeds fine with no foaming.
Well that's one less thing to trouble shoot. How hard is it to depress the throttle pedal. The reason I ask some throttle linkage geometry requires a heavier spring to stop the lurching at low speed. It's the reason I asked about engine mounts. Will it maintain a high idle of say 1300 just setting?
Little resistance to the pedal as I would expect and holds 1300 easily and steady.
So basically I can hold the pedal flat and perfect but the jumping of the engine moves the linkage, sounds about right on the problem.
PT pumps don't like much angle on the throttle linkage. Some trucks are worse than others.
Nothing beats a R Mack or Superliner with a Air Ride cab for Lurching, EVER!!
Oh we had three 2009 T800's that all three had the rheostat pedal changed twice, trying to drive those was like monkey f@%king a football. You couldn't hit a bull in the *** with a bass fiddle trying shift the first four on those ten speeds. Everyone cussed them.
Well according to WSP Washington State Patrol the rig sounds fine from what they heard, in fact she purrs like a kitten said the officer Watch it the lights turn red really quick in Spokane WA, best to do 15 under with a semi hauling a trailer and car as I found out, though I managed to lay on the air horn as I blew through the intersection going past an officer . The joys of life
WSP term-driving while pink. If it's been green for a while it's soon to go pink.
Between dodging people swerving in and out of traffic in a large city, trying to figure out which way to get out the city and people pulling out in front of you last thing you are staring at is lights on how long they been green. Haven't had a ticket in 15 years.
That's part of driving .-----------My favorite light-a on ramp mash and go that was positioned on the on ramp from Washington Boulevard to north bound 10 Santa Monica freeway. When It turned it was mash it in a high gear because you had to cross 4 lanes to make the left side ramp to I-5 north and less than a quarter mile to make that move. That area is known as the L.A. Bottle Neck. I haven't had a ticket since 1982. and that was non moving.
I can surely feel this transmission about to bite the dust. Sure feel the vibration in the floor when hitting on it hard on inclines, the clunking noise going down grades when off the pedal and now trying to get back into 5th or 6th after slowing down on floating the gears it either doesn't go in or clunks hard when it does. Thankfully I made it back to switch the transmission out. Now for a little rant, Washington state needs to do something about their room for truckers, you don't stop before Ellensburg by 1700 hrs and headed down I 90 W you are screwed on a place to shut it down. Rest stops full, Truck stops full, off/on ramps full and they want you to shut it down by certain time or get a ticket they can go suck a fart. Found a place to put the rig in Aroma Tacoma, signs up that says parking for commercial trucks only on side of some back alley road, more trash on the ground than a landfill, homeless prostitutes and thieves circling like flies around a turd. Seen a few get picked up, so a few more stopped to shoot up and one had odasity after his girlfriend stopped in middle of the road to get out and take a leak near my front tire, don't mind me let me grab this air horn and help you relieve yourself About 3 of them had fights with themselves and some had me ready to shoot through the door had they attempted a break in . I think I slept a hour or two "I think".
That's the product of E-logs-WA St isn't the only place like that. After 7 pm there isn't a place to pull off on I-84 or I-5.
Thank the gov't for fixing the trucking industry. 10 minutes from home base and out of hours? Pull it over and park.
One of the major reasons I found a local job sometimes I miss otr but then I’ll talk to a friend who is still out on the road and it’s either 20 bucks a night for reserved parking or he’s sol
What does one do if they have signs up "No Parking Tow Away Zone" and another sign that says for next 30 miles? Park it anyways or just chance it? Not everyone knows all the areas across the US of no parking and can't plan accordingly.
Another question is besides running a random wire down the length of my trailer is there a way such as combiner box to use my semi brake light wire to my gooseneck trailer? Basically in laymans terms on my semi I have 7 wire round pin plug for trailer lights being red wire is for brake lights unlike on automotive vehicles where the green wire is for brake lights and right hand turning. Tired of using the hazard lights as if I have brake lights and not a fan on running one wire to do as such which may or may not work.
I think an adapter like they use for newer cars that have separate brake and turn would work
https://www.reeseprod.com/mobile/products/electrical-wiring/taillight-converters/taillight-converter/!FQHI|fPlggV5dvshDkncvIIxkdYq63R8rz91QVMC!Q= Something like this should work, could mount it on the trailer or make an adapter to go between the truck plug and trailer plug so it will still work with a regular pickup.
Essentially a Diode system, when STOP over rides the T/S circuit if not in use.
On your truck should have a dedicated Stop circuit to trailer yet I thought still had a stop feed into the T/S Switch to feed the other lights, maybe not. Do Truck tails alternate T/S and Stop or four dedicated lamps? May be a process of chasing down truck Rear lighting circuits if do T/S and Stop and transferring to the trailer seven way circuit.
Like the other Miller is driving at, you need to feed that trailer off of your truck brake and turn lights, not the trailer ones. Just running a wire on the trailer won't work unless you have separate lights on the trailer. On my trucks, I have 2 plugs, one for separate brake and turn, and one for combined for my pintle hitch trailers.
Ok-here's the wiring diagram for a Signal Stat 900 switch which is standard for class 8 trucks. Now on a tractor/truck the signal lights for trailer are separated by wiring the turn signals for trailer into the turn signal wiring on the front/hood of vehicle. and brake and tail have there own feed. So- ground white, blue constant auxiliary power, black marker, brown tail, yellow and green turn , red brake. If you install a junction box to the separate system for tractor tail turn and use the black marker and brown for tail that goes to trailer light it should do it.
If the driver and company know what their doing in a situation of close to home-there is a factor called personal conveyance that can be logged for that problem.
Wouldn't this depend on whether he has the canceller in the turn signal switch?
I should have known Truck Shop would have the answer for this........my bad!!
That is what noted. Older Freight Shakers did not have Rear T/S, just tail and stops, T/S were mirror mounts and were considered visible enough no back of truck T/S. Newer they adopted Auto Standard stop/Turn with Tail rears, trailer lights could be wired as Spuds where the Front T/S were also Trailer T/S feed(otherwise no stop feature) and stops were just Stops(inboard two of four), four of six in many cases. All together too many methodologies in the systems.
A little more confusion for those easily confused!! Was why asked if Flat or Round pin plugs.
I have a daycab copy of his truck, that's why I knew he had car type lights on the tractor. I think by '94, everything had to have t/s and brake lights to the rear.
That's a fact tractor lights are a total separate circuit, but for trailer light circuit the turn signals are powered off the wiring to font of tractor to separate the brake and turn signal lights on a semi trailer.
Corn Queens tended to keep the all rear lamp brake light with the T/S function, IIRC the 97 Pete I drove Also had that function for the six lamp rear of the dump trailer.
Wire off of your tractor tail lights and install a 6 pin or RV ( 7 flat spades ) connector. Put that in a good place for the hitch. Then you can hook up to anybodies trailer with only one adapter. I have been changing over to the RV plug along the way. That is the modern choice.
This is a personal vehicle and I have no intentions of pulling anyone's stuff. Actually this is the end for my trips to Washington state after I pull my last two loads of stuff that is mine to get it home where it belongs at last after 6 years of it being scattered everywhere. "IF" and that's a big IF I ever go back to Peoples Republic of Washington it will be either in a car or my RV or whatever you want to call this contraption. Plus I have no intentions of ever pulling anyone's stuff across the US.
Do not forget to place " NOT FOR HIRE " signage on BOTH sides of cab, that eliminates all guessing and confrontations with the Gendarmerie!!
Actually, I can't get a picture of it right now but I put on both sides as seen... "Retired" "Not For Hire'' Few people drove by pointing at it getting a chuckle out of it including one WSP.
And here is your sign...
Just throwing it out there https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/258686235419472
Not too bad, but I think I rather like my 20' shipping container on back of a 6 x 6 military truck with fold down deck and put a N14 mechanical Cummins in with about 400 hp should do the trick. They could at least made some effort and pulled a RV window out of a scrap RV instead of residential window. Not too fond of the thin skin aluminum either, wonder how well they insulated it and with what. My mind can wonder off on million questions and things needed on it i.e. solar...
I ended up buying one and all is well, hooked it up to another junction box I installed and ran a brake/blue wire from new junction box to old junction box with the brake,stop, tail, and turn signals. Need to pull trailer brake from RV semi and install it cause I can sure feel the weight pushing.
Electric brakes on the trailer and you feel it pushing? What trailer did you end up getting? We have a 12t equipment trailer and for the life of me i cant get those stupid electric brakes to do much compared to air brakes. Did i mention how much i hate electric trailer brakes?
Not yet, I need to, haven't had time yet. Ended up getting this one.
Thats a big one eh. What are the axles rated? The best thing i ever did was put a good quality brake controller in the trucks. The good ones you can control how hard it comes on right away. All the cheap controls we had would not do much under lighter breaking or would be the time delay controls and would put the brakes on full even on a light stop.
The one I got is pretty great quality does up to triple axle it's a Tekonsha and you can adjust based on a test doing 25 mph with said load. Comes with 4 settings based on your weight too, also gives codes if something is wrong in the system.
I have had good luck with the Tekonsha Prodigy, sounds like that's what you have. You can really dial it in easily and repeat it (loaded vs unloaded).
Have used Tekonsha controllers a long time with good luck Brakes have a auto adj mechanism but have seldom seen work all that good Tandem duals 20k rate spud?
I think there are electric controllers that work off air application pressure still.
Tandem duals for 25k it says on the plate with oil bathed bearings. Figure with 8500 lbs tractor and all implements, 4850 lbs shipping container on it now and I'm sure I will be pushing on the limits of around 16640 payload capacity when I load the shipping container up with my stuff. Nearest scale to check the weight is 100 plus miles away "AFTER" you pass a weigh station, cause I'm sure you don't want to be checking weight with a WSP there, would be unloading stuff in the parking lot with a ticket in hand.
The good thing about those trailers and axles are is they will stand up to overloading because they are built so heavy. It shows how much more 2 10k axles weigh compared to 3 7k. I regularly had 22k on 2 10k axles and 26k overall trailer weight. I contacted manufacture who told me the 2 10k and 3 10k trailers were identical except for the coupler.
Oh so tempting and in way better shape than the one I have, plus it looks to be free of any mouse infestation at any time. Has 3:58 rears which would help on the mountains compared to my 3:08 rears, air suspension instead of springs, more in shape interior and I don't care for the Cat core going with it, has longer frame and comes with headache rack that is worth a lot I can use. https://seattle.craigslist.org/sno/hvo/d/everett-1992-volvo-parts/7193708798.html
Price is right. Should be worth it in parts if you never got things swapped around. Not sure about the tow cost?
I have the exact same rig and a trailer to pull it, looking at about $800 or less in fuel
I just ran 579 miles on 76 gallons of fuel in the tow truck with one on the back each direction.
Welp 300 miles from dropping first load and it seems the air compressor wants to drop out. No leaking lines I can hear, builds up to right above 80 psi enough to keep the alarm on unless I get it up in rpm. Either that or I can’t hear it leaking anywhere cause it drops very very slowly as in takes 15 minutes to drop 10 psi. So looks like I will be doing this in middle of nowhere
Governor/unloader kit in Compressor or air drier.
For the $20 for a governor, that's a fast easy swap to make sure it's right. When my governor went bad, it wouldn't unload the compressor. It just kept building air until the safety release valve on the air tank popped off at 150psi. After I got my new governor on, I discovered my air dryer needed a purge valve, and at that point, I just swapped on a reman assembly ($160ish). No more air system issues for me.
Guts package Cummins or Bendix 500 compressor is a booger to get at thru the intake port but quite doable small screwdriver needle nose pliers and patience. Just poppets, orings, spring and a lever arm.
https://www.bendix.com/media/documents/products_1/compressorsgovernors_1/troubleshootingguide.pdf
Where in the he double hockey sticks do I look for part numbers on this government?
I hear the air dryer leaking when all is turned off, not loud but I hear it losing air slowly.
Spud, the govenor is just a standard D-2 air govenor
Holset Cummins standard Single Cylinder compressor. Two bolts with large washers retain the unloader valve in compressor head. Would start with Discharge/exhaust kit on Drier if there is air blowing there.
That’s what I thought, I looked up them not based on that model and ended up with million variations through Nappy Auto Parts. It’s popping off every 30 seconds to minute going down the road so I’m going to change it and the governor to prevent future problems. After all it’s OEM air dryer from 1994
Will be the exhaust cartridge in the drier, BETCHA REAL Money on that one.
When it has the factory paint job on it from 1994 yeah I’m with you on that one.
What style is on it, Bendix? If anything build a temporary union and bypass the drier, plug the Unload port that feeds it.
Bendex T.A.G.
Something like this?
Should most likely be a AD-9 like pictured above. But the biggest problem that you will have is removing the three screws that hold the purge valve in place. One that old the steel screws in the aluminum base are probably corroded and will snap off.
I do have a torch on board. Wonder if it can hang on till I land back in Washington state. Yep looks like that. I made it rest of the way though, going to offload in the morning. Almost didn’t make last few miles, too steep on loose rock and powder clay.
AD-9,--- Replacement cartridge 25 bucks purge valve rebuild kit 25.
I have been buying remans exchange from a local parts supplier. About $165.00 No fuss with screws, housings and such that way.
That was my thought as well. Just replace the whole thing if it turns out to be the problem.
Been a Virgin this long with that much rust/corrosion may be better off.
Boy you guys have lost your sense of adventure, why tearing into that AD-9 could cause some good old fashion hate and discontent.
I would tear into it just to see what is in there and save a few bucks. Might do just that and if it’s too far gone, so be it.
As long as the screws come out the hold the purge valve it's rebuildable.
Now I need to find out why the dash lights are all dim, work perfect with key off or in Acc mode, but with key on it goes dim. By the way don’t beat on the gauges to see if anything is loose, it’s real glass and it will break as I put my fist through it.
When I worked for a company shop we rebuilt them on a schedule. Seldom had a problem. Working on others trucks if there is ever a problem they want want me to repair it for nothing. I have found trying to save other people money at times costs me money or causes bad feelings. Just do the reman right off the bat anymore.
Check the grounds. I a shop manual for a truck very similar to yours. It is two 4 inch thick binders. I am slow to get around to do things like that but I may be able to look up or send you some info.
Volvo dash clusters are known for light and gauge problems, There is a thin printed circuit film on the back that will distort and crack over time. I think Volvo still sells a replacement cluster. I made one out of aluminum and used standard gauges and electronic tack and speedometer some years back for a Volvo.
I am in the market for a book of that sorts Thought of doing just that, but that will be a different days project. Guess I better just shut it down by dusk or tape a light over it, DOT would love me for that idea
Going back down the rabbit hole... Most remember this semi I was given, welp just so happens I tried taking everyone’s advice and leaving it. Damnest thing is I tried pulling with rig this thread was started with and the rear gear ratio isn’t meant for mountain passes. So the semi in the picture has the gears I need but there is a catch, I have to take the whole thing... Provided it’s free parts and I don’t have to pay $2000 for rears on this rig the price is right. So I got few options. A. Take the whole thing $800 in fuel costs plus 6 days round trip to MT and back B. Pull rears and sell engine, transmission, cab and whatever else then cut rest up for scraping, what I salvage haul to MT on next trip. C. Pull rears and just scrap the rest It’s painful to scrap a Peterbilt yet I have no use for my application only for few parts off it unless I used it as a dump truck for building up my property. Unless I could cut from the cab forward and turn it into a pup trailer... Specs: 1990 Peterbilt Cat 3176 325 hp 1225 torque RTX12709H transmission said it was a dump truck at one time.
Engine is a turd-sorry, the trans and rear ends will work in your truck without cutting drive line. It being a 377 makes the rest a looser, fifthwheel is low pro not worth much, radiator is probably rotten. And it was a old OTR at one time, after it's use as a dump the steer axle probably needs pins, tie rods, drag link.
Pull what you need, scrap the rest. I've been down that rabbit hole, outside of what I needed, the rest was a waste of my time and ended up at the scrap yard in the end anyways.
Actually it's only rated for 1200 lbs on torque, I'm pushing 1350 so I might snap it unless it's underrated?
That box will take it.
Well in that case that would save me $300 from driveshaft shortening and I get a straight stick out of the ordeal instead of the offset one. Sounds like a winner to me.
what were the rears in the donor peterbilt? and did you ever find out why they originally parked it? If the front 3rd member is toast, that changes the $$ Are you running the same housings as that truck, and its just a pumpkin swap, or are you planning on full cut off swap?
Plan on pumpkin swap and reason parked is wasn't spec'ed out to what he wanted and went and bought another rig. More of he bought that one used didn't like it's specs so when he got the cash went and bought a new one customized to his specs. The rears are 402's (and so are mine) with a 4.11 ratio and with this calculator https://www.danaaftermarket.com/cal...ntation/Transmission Ratio RPM Calculator/221 everything will be copasetic on RPM's. If I need couple more MPH I could take the 24.5s with it too but don't see that as a issue.
In just wanting the pumpkins. I would pull the axles and keep them for future repairs. Pull the pumpkin's and trans. and throw them in the truck. Call the local tow truck service and have them haul the rest to the local large truck graveyard. You would have what you need and don't have to haul the rest to Montana. The 4.11 will be nice, just be aware that running 75mph won't happen anymore. If you can live with that.
Never could run 75 mph with current ratio as is with current transmission, pushing 1600 RPM at 60-65 mph and I don't do OTR. I will haul the rig to scrap yard myself to make more off it, doesn't have a title so no wrecker will touch it. The owner of it sold it and they guy who bought it years ago never came back to get it. It will be easy to get it on the trailer since it will be in pieces and the owner has excavator to move things around. So keep axles and transmission, I will pull the gauge panels since they are useful, some the intake piping to engine I can use, fuel tanks looks useful with brackets to hold them and I can keep the wheels for JIC of future endeavors. Though rest to scrap yard.
I'd probably keep the hubs off the drives too, but I'm a hoarder like that. If you lose a bearing and wreck a hub, it would sure be nice to have one in the shed.
Basically keep the whole axle assembly for both rears, that's what I was plan on doing.
That's what I was about to suggest, lose a bearing or crack a housing, and there you go.
Pumpkins and vegetable parts?---------Those 402's have a 7/16 wall pretty tough rarely crack, the rockwell housings for 40 145's now those crack. Pull the fill and drain plugs and see how much hair is sticking to the magnets. Pumpkins--Halloween is just around the corner.
Maybe I will just stick these pumpkins on my front door step of my camper rig and carve out face features with my cutting torch
Here is the plugs out of the donor truck axles, look good to me nothing major to be seen.
Spud, you probably already thought of it but, could you use those tandems, cut behind the cab, to put a small mixer on? Could be powered off your tractor PTO, or, a pto and pump off one of your other trucks. Wouldn't need axles in the housings, put your take out pigs back in, or just blank covers where they went. Just thinking...
Nope didn't quiet think of that one, but did think of a dump pup trailer instead, though that is a good idea. Another one is turn it into a water trailer...
These valves don’t look good. Guess I will use the ones off my Volvo transmission.
A little cab removal for easy access? The valve and regulator aren't hard to find or expensive. Popping it apart and new orings wouldn't be a bad idea. I would also look at taking the top cover off and give it a look over before installing it. Full gasket sets aren't expensive. If you have a chewed up gear it would be easier to deal with before you install it.
That's my main goal, though replacing the housing itself on the regulators with current ones on the Volvo trans is on the list. Pulling part numbers now as we speak.
Not meaning to be picky but I clicked on Heavy Equip on CL (Craigslist) and I ran across this ad and seems to be tons more not posted as I would love to have a view to see what I can find. Steep on some of the prices, but I think a bit of cash could talk. Wasn't looking at the cabs I was looking at the transmissions on the floor in this posting and seen they weren't posted. Not meaning to sound picky but if I could find the exact spec'ed transmission I wanted and was in good shape, might be worth it. What's weird is it's a woman name with contact information with a man taking the pictures from the view of his boots. https://olympic.craigslist.org/hvo/d/port-angeles-truck-cabs/7209407179.html
Appear to be Mack cabs
Yeah, Mack cabs, hood, and at least one of the transmissions.
For the details inside the RTX12709H, will order gasket set up and valves today.
So you don't have a issue later on-remove the slave valve on the front section and the plunger/pin. When installing the shift bar housing that plunger has to be removed or damage can result. Install shift bar housing then plunger then slave valve. I have seen numerous front cases destroyed from people bolting the shift bar down without removing plunger. A dealer destroyed one core returned to us. Sliding clutches in front section look to be in good shape. The slave valve should be a A5000. And make sure when you bolt it back down you have the bolts in the correct spots-no long bolts in the corners on right side, only one long 1/4" longer bolt in the left front for bracket and dowel. Long bolts in corners can lock the counter shafts. Don't loose the detent balls and springs under tower.
Went and looked at the link on CL and I found a RTO-12513 and he wanted $500, I didn’t bite on it but I did find this also for $500. Question is should I grab it? They will load it for me if I do.
Bedways are a mess, no telling what else is wrong with it and may not even function well enough to make round bar from round bar. Will be three phase but does have a taper cut attachment on the beds. Scrap value less than $300
Another scan of photo, may want to steer clear, seems to be infected with Corona
The last one to operate it was a drunk. I like the nut welded on the cutting support anchor bolt
Basically look elsewhere and leave this one be? Seen the 3 phase which I have genset that could run it if it's of worthiness, though seems to not be from replies.
To keep it stable during use would need to set piers in a concrete floor with anchor bolts to hold it. There will be issues finding chuck parts, gear train, any small parts if any break or are worn too far.
When the machine tool is covered with rust and not oil, you really just want to leave it alone. All the adjustments are pretty tight tolerance, and when it all gets rusted up, nothing works or slides or turns or holds tolerance the way its supposed to. The price between still useable old manual operated stuff, and junk that people think is still useable old stuff, is not that great. On the transmission subject- I don't think for what you are driving and pulling, that you need any more than a 9 or 10 speed transmission. I think a 13 is just going to be added components that you don't need. A 9 and a 13 only are different in the top 1/2 of the transmission, and from what I gathered, you feel your problem is not having enough down low. That's going to be your rear gear change. That trans you just got out of the pete looks pretty clean inside, get some of the air parts and save the $ that you think you need to spend on a different transmission, on your tractor or one of the other projects. A 9 vs 13 can make a difference if you are in the seat every day putting in a full set of miles rowing gears. For just occasional use, and no heavier than you are going to be loaded, I see no reason not to just have a 9 speed.
I'm not touching that 13 as I said I didn't bite, too much rust on it with no cover where the shift tower was at. I called and told him wasn't interested in the lathe either, as I say there is time and reason for everything, just got to find the good in it. I figure to as grab the transmission if it was dirt cheap for someone might need it on here but he treated it like it was giving me a deal for $500 for condition it was in and that same vibe was felt about the lathe, something wasn't right. The gaskets and new valves for the RTX are on order all total $200 from drivetrainamerica.com will be here Monday, hope to have transmission pulled by then maybe not as I need a couple days away from everything.
The 9's and 10's are less weight and less moving parts, that's always a winner and the main reason fleets bought so many spec'ed that way. In the front section other than the bearings the only other item to give a problem is the 10" long main shaft key which locks the limiting and blocking washers in-place on the main shaft. The torque ratings depend on several aspects of front and rear section. In the front on later series the gears have a higher tooth count for more contact plus Eaton had multiple specifications for tempering and hard surfacing the gear train. In the back section the output shaft went from 2.5 and ten spline to 2.75 and 54 spline, plus the counter shafts rotate on ball type bearings in the earlier models and the later high torques went to tapered bearings with a preload setting. But with all that said-A new RTLO18913A comes factory with a set of tempered gear train you can't buy when rebuilding, instead any gear train gear sets will come with RTLO16913A part numbers and replacement gears. So when your done you have a RTLO189 with RTLO169 torque rated parts, that's just the way Eaton does it.
Thanks again. I did not know that.
Basically a RT... whatever initial lettering one wants to use for the nomenclature of a Eaton transmission a 12 would hold up to a 1400 ft lbs of torque, a 14 would hold up to 1600 ft lbs a 16 would hold up to 1800 ft lbs and etc.
Besides a couple reg flags on the back i.e. red shop rags anything else I would need to haul this on a 40' trailer for being over length of the trailer? https://seattle.craigslist.org/tac/for/d/roy-45-ft-high-cube-container/7210562718.html
What's your over all length from bumper to the end of that container when loaded?
I would surmise less than 65' of legal length without a permit since from tongue to end of shipping container would be about 51' to 53' at max which would be as if I had a 53' dry box on the end and can slide the 5th wheel forward couple feet forward if need be. I was just worried about the overhang.
As long as lights are visible .
One of these three sensors activates the switch to turn the fan on and I don’t see any numbers to identify which is which. So which one and what are the replacement part numbers, I’m tired of driving staring at temp gauge more than the road itself and flipping the switch all the time. As one can see someone put their dick beaters on the wiring and bypassed it.
Looks like I'm late to this game and I'm only a page deep into the thread but holy ****, 5200 bucks for that truck? Wow! Nice! --now off to read more horror stories of it's ownership... I'd be lost within your first problem!
My vote is Center unit, Two Wire, On Off switch. lead unit three wire, POSSIBLE but doubtful. other unit dash gauge,
Shew... Through the thread now and I've got to say, again, this forum is amazing. Granted, I only understood about a third of the words throughout this entire thread, I'm learning things and seeing pictures and reading discussions about stuff I never previously knew existed. Good stuff and thanks all y'all for your knowledge and goodwill!
The gauge sender should be easy to find by grounding and watching gauge, depending on how it's wired it could also be the front sender. I think the rear is for alarm. Look for the solenoid switch for fan hub and follow wiring. The fan hub sender should say NO normally open or NC normally closed.
Old days was easier when used Thermal bulb air switches. Just two air lines and two of three ports.
Here’s my sense of adventure, $50 later... I didn’t even break a bolt
Good for you, saved 115.
Did the kit come with oring for the outlet to tank check fitting? If did may want to pull that apart and clean inspect.
I took it all apart and cleaned it hence the brake cleaner can in the picture. Only thing not new I didn't change out was the pop off valve if it went too high in pressure. New O rings, purge valve, new plug, new bolts for purge valve and new air dryer filter.
That's $115 more towards a garage to as not do this in a stream of water next time hopefully. Look left of the blanket in first picture you can see the water I was laying in
i thought the blanket was for the celebratory nap you would have after it was all back together
A BFH and large channel locks and you can fix anything
That hammer is my go to hammer and I don't leave home without it and I have done many oil changes with those channel locks to take the filters off, especially on those Dodges with Cummins engine in them.
Have to have the Rigid Universal wrench/hammer along side as well for good measure!!
Off it goes to the scraper... Now for another can of worms in the midst of needing to pulling a transmission and some pumpkins someone gave me two log skidders. One needs to go to the scrap yard and second one has a blown engine that comes with a good V6 Cummins as they blew up the Detroit in it, and it weighs 40k lbs . I think that would be worth a trip to haul 1200 miles.
OH! You are killing me now. Do a search to buy a hood for that truck. I know a guy that could use the step and box possibly but you are far off from me. Core on that engine should be worth a bit.
Too late, all is gone and was destroyed in picking it up and putting it on the trailer along with dropping it 4 ft in the air on to the trailer and onto the ground busting the oil pan since there wasn't a axle to stop it. Cab was destroyed with a grapple hook to the top of it after being loaded and the hood served as a bucket to hold extra parts. All is in the scrap yard now, no questions were asked on titles, no receipts, no ID check which was weird and straight cash. Next up, log skidder...
About that skidder I’m supposed to drag back to Montana, has a 6v53 that’s blown, the guy is giving a V6 Cummins to replace it, but I might sell it for another 6v53 or do a rebuild. Anywho, don’t know the make model or weight of it, anyone want to take a gander at it?
That is a chunk of iron
Looks to me like an old Mountain Logger, There have been several 6v53's listed in the NW on CL. The 6V53 was common in a Mountain Logger, most who operated them --can't hear.
Got to looking thru listings, a Mountain Logger is a Weiler machine nowadays, First number on data plate should be model a 250 and will range around 40K in weight. As stated a Chunk of Iron. Will need a REAL lowboy and a strong winch to move that.
Yep a ML like I said. Those were everywhere years ago.
Thanks guys, I was thinking around 36k. Seen a dozer and some other equipment at another persons house next to it with little cash I’m sure I could convince them to pull it up, just make a place to put snatch block and up it goes. Another problem is most equipment trailers are pintle which means I need to fabricate a pintle hitch to bolt on.
Believe will need more than a pintle set up Most likely will need a low deck fifth wheel equipment trailer
Seen a few 20T pintle though not taking the 5th wheel lowboy off the table yet. Problem with most low decks is just that low deck that would high center going up the ridge which I will refer to as the last 3 miles. I can haul everything to Montana, but that last 3 miles home is what stops a lot. If it rained or snowed in past 72 hours to 96 hours it's not happening on getting up with anything other than a deuce and half military truck or a 4 x 4 vehicle. Need to find me a staging point out there so if stuff happens I can leave it till I can get up there.
I wish someone would give me a skidder. I'm just a shade jealous. I dont really have a use for one, but I would still drag it home and tinker with it.
Skidders run some ROUGH duty, Shotgun seat and rough terrain while loaded as a b*****d mule. Hard machines to keep together after a dozen or so years beaten on. Would OH the 53 series, makes MORE noise and wear Muffs while using!!
Kida looks like it needs more than just a engine. Radiators are spendy.
Don't worry I would wear ear plugs I have bag of them that I wear even when running a circular saw. Actually the person who is giving it away has one going to go with it.
If I had a trailer and way to load it, it would have done left the area by now.
Everyone needs to operate a skidder like that one for about a year.
My new toy, got it for $3000 by a older gentleman who was about to call scrap yard up to see what he could get for it. I told him what I got for the Peterbilt and he was exasperated by how low it was. This should bury a shipping container and dig our house pad out along with few other things. https://seattle.craigslist.org/kit/hvo/d/port-ludlow-ford-4500-back-hoe/7215622549.html
Be careful when swinging the hoe side to side as they like to break the swing chain. Been there, done that, fixed it too. Otherwise, I enjoyed running the old Ford backhoe.
Thanks for the insight!
Welp I was supposed to pick the backhoe up, but seems everything went sideways. Ramps gave out on one side and bent so now I need to build new ones. Just what I need, more projects
Remind me again how many people suggested you might need a heavier trailer? Buy once, cry once..... Don't worry though spud, I've tried to cut corners because I was on a budget too. I guess anymore I just buy older and heavier vs. newer and lighter, to try to get the price where I need it to be. Keep working though - WINTER IS COMING!!!!!!
Main reason I bought one this one trailer was the length, I needed all 40' for my shipping container 5th wheel and all the other shipping containers I plan on hauling out. Trailer can hold it, just the ramps gave out. Heavier trailer coming up in the summer of next year "I think" except this will be a TAG trailer. If this trailer can't hold a 10k lb. piece of equipment it shouldn't be holding 9.5k lb. shipping container on the back.
Just remember the ID Tag GVWR on it when load it, and what the tires will handle.
Oh I do plus got to remember I am farm registered at max of 50k lbs., the trailer is 26k lbs. GVWR trailer empty it is 9k lbs. so that leaves 17k lbs to be loaded on. Which means if I were to grab another trailer for the skidder I would be over my registered weight just with skidder and semi not including trailer.
I surmise one can tell from this picture of what happened to the ramp, and I’m salvaging the treads for the new ones. Which I’m going to go with rectangular tubing instead of channel iron, cap the ends off and put a detachable kicker in the center. Got a call this morning from the person who sold the backhoe offering to buy it back since he guessed I would give after that minor mishap Also called to tell me his wife counted the money and all was there, cause yesterday he was pised I gave him hundred’s twenty’s fifty’s five’s and ten’s for the cash. Apparently he can’t count cause I offered to break it down and refused to siting hopes is all there after he attempted counting it all as I pretended to not notice. Cankerous old b*****d he is hurrying up to get it out of there before he pises me off too much.
Good choice on steel, although gonna be heavy.
Alright, time for a new conundrum on switching out this transmission on my Volvo. The last 3 miles of getting my stuff home is up a steep clay ridge road which has been hit with snow and freezing temperatures that defrosted to mush. Can my PTO hydraulic pump from RT13709H fit on the new transmission I am putting in RTX12709H? Reason is I plan on welding a hydraulic winch on the front to pull myself up the ridge with (and yes there is trees big enough to hold the weight). Or should I just tow this out there and use the winch to pull myself up after I get a new cable? https://olympic.craigslist.org/hvo/d/chimacum-international-hd-6/7203739384.html
If it starts and runs certainly get the TD6, guy does NOT even know what has, Numbers on parts tractor just ahead of this one. Slick loader tracks may not pull well but will not bury you either, two lengths of 5/8-3/4" rerod on EACH shoe will do wonders.
PTO will bolt up and run on that transmission. Do not know about your GPM match to PTO.
All of those series of Eaton RT, RTO, RTLO and FRO have the same tooth count on the counter shaft PTO gears 45 and 47 teeth.
I’m going to go look at that TD6 tomorrow, I went and got my backhoe today with new ramps. Couple 6 ton jack stands under the center and all went smooth, bit too tight to fit in current space they stored in but I will fix that.
Nice quick job.
Thanks, I salvaged the treads from the last set of ramps and unlike last ones spaced them evenly 6 inches inbetween and ended up 2 extras for spare. I have rollers on back of the trailer which is reason for hooks as they are at the top fabricated from 4 inch pipe I cut in half. Did all this with a 4.5 inch grinder and welding machine
Way cool! Are your available next weekend?
Sure what's on the agenda?
You are right the "kid" doesn't know what he has, insight from someone up the road from him told me they do scrap metal and well with a "fabricated" story they put it for sale. Tried to tell me it was worth more in scrap metal than the $1000 he is selling it for and I shot back with, I doubt that since I just got done dragging in a Peterbilt that weighed in 16k plus lbs minus 3k for axles and transmissions I saved and only got $500 which I know weighs more than this 10k lb or less machinery. He try rebuttal of well the the tracks are worth a lot and so are the bucket, I just let it go in one ear and out the other, asked if he ran it any said it turns over but haven't started it since "they" got it. So I asked well can I come back with a battery and some fuel to crank it up so I can buy it for the $1000 before I decide to pay for it.. That's when he said the price would go up, I said what to $2500, he said no, more than that. So let me get this straight, I'm going to pay you for me to get this working for you to sell it to me at higher price? He tried saying something but I told him to shut up and walked away. Has grass growing in the treads that needed mowing, blade stuck up in the air as if seized up and some crappy weld repairs. I didn't stick around to dig deeper as the **** was getting deeper.
Had a guy with a 977k that did not run wanted ‘scrap value’ of $6000 back when bought Allis Told him scrap at the time was $210T and in no way worth 6 Asked when last ran was told five years and similarly asked if brought batteries could I try to get running he said price would go up running I too walked away It still sits same place 8 years later with hand painted sign updated once in awhile Now is $3000 and has a tree growing thru track frame to loader boom area. Idiots
These people are such idiots it will be like yours sitting there for another 15 years or more. Their story of how they acquired the equipment fell apart when I noticed a small generator on ground and mentioned it since I heard another one running. Apparently they are cutting edge living "off the grid" with generators and I asked what about solar panels and he replied back they haven't tried them yet. So thought to myself, you can afford an excavator you bought to replace this equipment with yet you couldn't afford to hook up to power only 100 feet away and you are buying generators for power cause I know that is more expensive than hooking up power. I never seen the excavator anywhere on the property either. Basically they acquired it for free for what I surmise and now think it's their golden egg.
Put new batteries on the Volvo, $430 endeavor and got my backhoe to pull 3rd members out. Need to find a 12” bucket for trenching, but first buy some tire spoons to put this tire on right.
Did you swap third members on your Volvo, or just the ring and pinion?
I'm going to swap the third member, I don't have the "experience" to get it lined up right for just ring and pinion nor tools or time right now. Plus side is I got the 3rd members free and made $500 off getting them.
Welp... time to drop some fluids for starters and see how the axles are doing on the ones I’m taking out. Everyone loves pictures right!¿ Who wants some chocolate milk with what seems to be metal shavings...
Minor metal, not a worry to me, the Chocolate Milk is indicative of one if not TWO things, first is Water, by that color lots of it and second mixing incorrect oils in the housing, mineral oil and heavy gear lube do NOT play well.
Small parts and pieces fairly normal, the magnet inside bottom of housing will tell the story-and it probably has a normal beard attached to it. Make sure and remove the out put yoke on back side of front drive before trying to remove the main drive. The through shaft come out with the front drive on 402's.
Working from the rear to the front on pulling parts here. I figure as to remove all yokes and replace the pinion seals while down there and put old yokes on new axles. With P.O. I wouldn’t be surprised to find remnants of a banana shoved in there, and yes it would work temp if they did. I can vouch for that Took rear tires off one side to drag the carrier out. Doing this in the dirt, what fun.
Change one along side I-5.
Plywood is your friend. You need more. I changed one on a jobsite after stripping all the teeth on the ring gear getting into the jobsite. It was one of those jobs that had to get done. And I couldn't get back out of there until it was fixed. One on the side of I-5 would be far- far worse. I had plenty of time and no worries about accidently having a foot outside the tires.
I have grates down which plywood will go on top, I just haven't put it down yet. This might be first axle change out in the dirt/rock but I did the transmission in my camper rig CM5552-D Spicer on plywood in the dirt and dropped my F450 transmission out in gas station parking lot off of I-5. How long did that take you? I'm surprised they didn't try and stop you or tow it on the spot. Not much on the inside magnet, just usual shavings.
Hendrickson rear suspension makes this far uglier while working in a dust bowl quarry under a Corn Queen Fleetstar tandem with 40,000 IH rears. Getting the rear high enough to drag the pot out to the back was NO JOY. Used a Trans Jack to get it back in loading it onto the jack by hand under and fighting the cross tube. Gas axe almost made a entrance on the job. Ring was floating as the rivets ALL Sheared. NEVER EVER any fun pulling a rear pot, fronts are just awkward and off balance.
That was years ago and it was a wide spot, with service truck about 5hrs. I bought one of these back in the early 90's-a must have on a tow truck. Nothing like a Tiger Tool.
I seen those tools but couldn't justify the price with Peoples Republic of Washington taxes added on that one never gets back for some excuse of why they must keep it each time one files for a return. My boots have fell apart to point of no return and rather wait till next trip to Montana to have them shipped there. https://www.drivetrainamerica.com/1...oint-puller-with-bearing-cups-1-5-to-2-2-o-d/
Bought mine off the salesman from the manufacture in Richman, B.C. IIRC.
Sometimes there is a series of events in life one can’t explain though with time one can see the good in it. This is one of those times, enjoy the carnage I found in the front rear axle of my semi. I personally think it needs to go to the scrap yard and sell the rear, rear axle. Also found what appears to been a loose cap strap on one of the u joints, hence the shiny cap.
That really is not so bad!! The third member I limped 150 miles to get a load of beans off had one full side carrier bearing GONE! The R&P looked like a iron termite had been making nookie in them as were well past FUBAR!!! Iron was in Everything. Replacement third member and this is just historic reference!
Half round yokes will do that over time, especially if there was crud under u-joint cap when installed, that ring gear is evidence of shock load. To bad to because it has a nice pattern.
I was looking hard at that pattern, I thought it had a little too much contact at the heel and not enough in the center. But my eyes are old. I could be wrong.
TS is correct, I see a Good pattern, I would set a little farther toward center on Ring when patterned but this still shows as a good one. Hypoid gearing can be hard to decide where to ride the pattern as does use most of the tooth.
Not my expertise, but since I know what to look for I will look at the ones going in and compare. I got all 4 pumpkins out need to clean the two going in up with the housings they are going into. Easy part taking them out, hard part putting them in. Rain coming in Monday and won't stop for a week, fun times.
I use threaded dowel pins in two of the lower holes in the housings, about 3.5 inches long, once started on those it will help keep the drive unit lined up and slid straight back. Remove the snap ring and bearing from the output shaft port in rear of front housing, install drive unit then install bearing, snap ring and seal. Don't try and shove thru-shaft through bearing.
At least they do not have the old reinforcing ears on the bearing caps. Those third members were a Bite to get out and at times worse going in if had a taste too much preload on carrier.
It slid in so easy without disassembly though I will double check it. I used 5 inch bolts that I cut the heads off of. Remember those games one played in store as a kid you stuck a quarter in and tried grabbing a prize with the grapple on a crane, who knew it would pay off years later
Every so often WE eat the Bear!! Good deal Spud.
Hey Spud, a trick I learned years ago with the headless bolt / guide stud trick. Use a zip wheel to cut a slot across the head end. Makes turning them out with a screw driver a piece of cake. And save them, you will need them again someday.
I used vice grips, but good idea. As for saving them, haha I have saved about every bolt and then some from everything I ever taken apart or used as such. That Peterbilt I took in I scrapped most nuts and bolts, hose clamps off of along with all the air line fittings, ferrules are cheap. Look closely at the end of the chain attached to the differential and it's a bolt/nut with washers from a outboard motor that bolted it through the transom. Acquired them from a boat that someone had and caught fire that I disposed of. Though one of my pet peeves is when one rebuilds or takes apart something and don't put all the nuts and bolts back correctly. Thanks, I even got the second one in same way just in different spot. Got rain coming in so I just hung them both with pins will get gasket material off and pinion seals tomorrow, didn't want to try and do this in the rain, also got tarp up.
Like to know the story behind these pictures. Never knew one could break a cross member snap or break two drive shafts at once and manage to destroy a set of leaf springs on one axle. That’s what all has been replaced or welded on this semi I have noticed being under the rig.
Got the 3rd members in just waiting on pinion seals and u joints to come in. The last picture is in reply to That was fun getting the bearings back in the cage but with some red grease I glued them in. The axle shafts flanges were of different sizes so I put the old axle shafts back in and all is sealed, I now have 4:11 gearing wehooo. Now on to pulling the PTO and hydraulic motor off transmission cause transmission is next.
It's really not that unusual to find broken welded up crossmembers on older trucks.
Maybe that's what snapped the ring gear tooth off, whenever it all broke loose.
Shock loading can happen any time have wheel slip. Icy roads is when I used to get a considerable amount of damaged differential work. Power Divider sections on the old Rockwells(SQ and SLHDs), side gears and sheared shafts on Eatons, sheared ring rivets or destroyed bearing on the IHC diffs, exploded two speed spools and axles, nearly every winter would be a month of third members!!! At Union Electric Detroit Locker assemblies were guaranteed axe replacements and housing cleanings for exploded metal. Freightliner and Corn Queens in the 70s/80s were horrid for busted cross members or frame gussets.
Got the transmission out and will say the jack and it's modification didn't work. Weight of the transmission pushed the plate hard enough to snap the bolt holding it through the plate (1/4 inch plate), guess I should of welded it. Tried using how the jack was made instead of fully modifying it as needed and almost cost a broken arm or death, heed this warning. Was pulling it with ratchet strap attached to cross member, jack was holding not a problem but when the input shaft came loose all hell came loose. No pictures but will post something of this whole escapade later of either or of what is going on for update.
Man, glad you didn't get hurt or worse.
Your dealing with close to 600 lbs with 9 and 10 speed models about 780 lbs with a 13 speed. I know of a fellow who only has one hand. Must be careful. You can't get away fast enough.
Thanks, you and me both. I thought something was going to happen when that input shaft left the clutch just didn't know what and surely didn't want to be near when it did. Time to hook up the welding machine as I hate having to, (very time consuming) and go mad scientist on this welding fabricating to hold the next one going in better. Not going to have 583 lbs drop on me or whatever next one weighs.
If you install with clutch mounted on transmission it's 733 lbs.
Ass end of the trannies are the Heavy spot, all the clutches and extra casing. Needs to be about 60/40 or 65/35 Back end MORE on the jack.
Here is what it looks on the inside. Not much to be seen but the synchros bounce around as I spin the output shaft and the output shaft moves 3/8 to 1/2in in and out. Chipped tooth in the rear too. I put a quarter of a inch allen key to give references. The other transmission going in doesn’t move at all in that regards. Guess I now know why it was knocking, knocking on heavens door of death that is.
Thanks I will incorporate that into my design. Pulling bell houses off right now, new transmission/engine mounts will be in on Tuesday. Got polyurethane ones instead of the old fashion rubber ones.
Good choice to pull it.
Output shaft support bearings are toast, which is unusual. A possibility that somewhere in that transmissions history the rear section had been into and the spacer between the output support bearing was left out. The chipped tooth on the auxiliary drive gear is uncommon also, I would suspect the rear main shaft support bearing has some major play. The front sliding clutch for third/seventh-forth/eighth has seen some major miles. The usual thing to cause output bearings to go bad is a loose yoke nut but even then it takes a bunch.
Looking at the synchro end of that chipped gear, it passed something as all have little disruptions along the face. I agree on a bad Rear Section build and install.
I would have to agree with both of you as the neighbor who gave me the Peterbilt was scratching his head on the problem as he has been in few of these transmissions and seems as such with questions he asks, ideas he gives and tools he has. Would this website be worth of giving me the history of the rig? https://bigrigvin.com/ I'm up for an adventure when I get all this back together, I will rip the rear section off to find out the problem and post pictures.
Probably not, but who knows either. With older equipment it's just expected.
I think the vin search would be a waste of $$. Its not going to tell you anything you don't already know. The trans has some wear. The frame cross members have fatigue cracked and been repaired. Its broken a driveline or two in its life. And lost a tooth on a third member. Its bounced a million plus miles. As truck shop said - Fix it, or sell it and find something different to fix. Or make payments on newer stuff. Also- used transmission jacks aren't that expensive. New ones aren't really either. I've got a ancient walker that will probably last forever, and it works just like the new ones.
One time only have I seen where the output shaft race has broken the collar.
Is generally always the thrust washer either not installed or damaged and eats itself, dropped drive shaft comes to mind for shock load.
I will fix it, scrap it out when I get a M35 or equivalent and keep the drive train when I do that is the ultimate goal. Reason for report was to see if it was in a wreck as the passenger door had a gap half way up that I fixed and now the door won't open easy. Maybe in the future before I buy the next one for RV conversion like to get a heads up. Might go back to my old trusty motorcycle jack to lift the transmission back in, it hasn't failed me only the bottle jack in it needs replaced as reason I didn't use it this time around.
This is the same basic trans jack we use in the shop only difference is ours is rated at 3000 lbs. Low profile and high lift {over 36"}. The table is the best one for Eaton/Fuller gear boxes very stable easy tilt fore and aft and side to side. Eaton trans won't slid off this jack. just for everyone thinking of getting a large trans jack.
Used a Walker very similar to that 40 years ago
I really like this jack this style because I also use it to rebuild transmissions on. It's perfect for that because of the high lift and it's low enough to store under a work bench. I can raise or lower to what ever level I need when rebuilding instead of a table or work bench, which saves my back. The one above is a OTC but there are several made just like it under different names. I have never used a better jack.
Interesting! I usually put them on a table for rebuild.
That was ok when I was young but loading the counters and main shaft it's a bunch easier lower the trans to correct height for setting in place. Plus I can wheel it around if necessary. It's a large jack and heavy with a wide footing. What is really nice is I can tilt it on the right side to keep the top counter shaft out of the way while loading the main shaft and gear set. I bet that jack has been through at least 60 rebuilt gear boxes and countless transmission/clutch change outs.
Wouldn't happen to be able to get the dimensions off that top plate would you, I know of someone with a welding machine and some skill to fabricate one. Problem is you have to drive 5 hrs to find one here or wait 2 weeks before it comes in due to Covid-19, riots, current holidays coming up and whatever else they can come up with.
Just for the plate they want $150 https://www.amazon.com/OTC-540231-T...=OTC+transmission+jack&qid=1604799145&sr=8-24
Actually if you look at the photo above you can cut and make one to fit off the trans you removed-just use angle on the sides. It's about as simple as it gets. But I can get measurements also.
The Harbor Freight copy of that jack is pretty good for occasional use, and a whole lot cheaper. The biggest thing about a real transmission jack is that you can tilt the table. You can work around the lack of side to side tilt a lot easier than fore and aft. If the fore and aft angle isn't right, it's hard to install the input shaft.
Did my camper rig with a Horror Freight motorcycle jack and my F450 a couple times a few other auto transmissions. Problem is bottle jack doesn't last and they aren't readily available to get as seems all the stock is gone last I looked couple days ago.
Good idea though just heat it and bend it works for the edges. Will start on this tomorrow morning, transmission prepped and ready to go in after new gasket set new slave valve and such, just didn't get a fancy primer paint job
No not a motorcycle jack, the 2000 lb capacity transmission jack. The medium duty 5 speeds are much easier to just grab and horse around than a truck tranny. https://www.harborfreight.com/2000-lb-low-profile-transmission-jack-60240.html I bought one after my old jack got stolen, as I probably only pull about one tranny a year now. I put a piece of 3/8" plate about 18" x 24" on it's top plate so I could use blocks to do Roadrangers with the PTOs attached.
Would love to see a picture of it sometime, I'm always up for ideas. Three-eighths inch plate, wow bit thick eh?
i`ve got an old hein-warner 4000#rated good old jack but takes a small crane and a bulldozer to move it around
There is a whole thread about pulling truck transmissions here somewhere, there are a bunch of pics of it there. That plate was probably what was laying on the shop floor when I needed it.
Yeah about $2000 in price I seen Will look it up, didn't know people made a thread and would go in depth with them.
This isn't that thread, but some pics of the setup I use just above halfway down. HeavyEquipmentForums
I already made it there Unlike that transmission I pulled the PTO on mine and put a plate in from Eaton to end any possibilities of it snagging on a rock, stump, bush or whatever off road and ripping it apart. Now I wonder what type of hydraulic fluid ran to it, had some green tinted kind smelled funny but look great.
Last trans r&r I helped on.....we took out the passengers seat, removed the bucket from the backhoe and stuck it in the cab. Chained off to the trans.... lowered it down on plywood, slid it out. Installed it the same way. Yea, there was a whole lot of beer involved. Ed
I would of done the same thing except the hole was about 4 to 6 inches in diameter, wait a minute if I lined it up right under that said hole
I used a harbor freight jack when I did the Allison swap on my old international, borrowed from my father in law. It worked, though his tilt adjustments seemed awfully precarious, Sloppy, undersized. We kept our distance as best we could, and had cribbing available and placed to catch a falling load. My grandpa has a large floor jack with a big flat plate attached. No tilt adjustments. The jack easily handles the load, but it's a pain lining up the input shaft without the tilt adjustments. Lots of wooden wedges and manhandling involved usually. I have seen a guy use an engine hoist slid in through the passenger door with a chainfall of some sort to drop and pick a trans. It would be similar to how @Bumpsteer did it, minus the backhoe. All that said, I would own one like the pros do if I were doing transmission and clutch work frequently.
Beautiful thing about this transmission swap is the transmission bell housing is the rear of the engine motor mount. So go in at a tilt of about 3 degrees or less downwards and tilt the engine upwards to line it up, be like letting it fall in at controlled pace.
After a days worth of work of building it and trying to get it under then lined up it’s not going to work. The plywood is too soft to roll on even on grates and prying it forward just wants to tip. So back to drawing board
You can place thin steel plate on top of the plywood and then roll, if that's your only hang up.
And by all means get a ratchet strap around it, if it rolls off the jack, it'll be bad.
Yeah I did that after the picture and all transmissions I have ever pulled, though thanks for looking out for me. At one time I would have readily stuff available, I can't even find a board to block anything up around here. Just think of it this way 1200 miles from your shop/home doing this with only tools onboard, that's about what is here. Yeah I can get things but whatever I get it's got to come with me. I will fight it up there, just irritated doing this in the 30's in water/mud.
Agree with CO, would go heavier than 1/8" maybe narrow sheet 1/4" steel and should roll like on marbles.
Anyone got some marshmallows to roast as I wait for this engine mount to burn off? Didn’t feel like cutting it off with grinder after it getting everywhere nor fighting to unglue it so burn it!
I've done that
Ah the scent of burning rubber Love is in the Air!!!
You'd better be careful, the emission police catch a whiff of that and you'll be in troooooouuuuble....
There is none here, not even vehicle emission requirements. Actually had local sheriff called on me one time in Texas for what the "ashole" neighbor thought was me burning copper, turns out it was just a skunk that got ran over half mile up the road. They came and paid me a visit is why I knew, another time I got called on for small camp fire by same neighbor. Female deputy came out and guessed she didn't like me, called the local fire department out and they came out and looked at her and said, you called us out here for this Such fun times in life.
Fire Bug.
You’re a menace to society, can’t believe you have the nerve to burn that on soaking wet ground with all those soaking wet leaves around....
I had second thoughts of burning it where it sat on the transmission on the ground underneath the semi, but then I thought of the smell that would emulate into the cab and never come out for awhile.
Without taking seats out or reaching through a small hole the transmission has landed. If you don’t have one of these tools in first picture I suggest at least one, I might get another one or two myself.
Spud, I carry 3 in my trk. I call them my 3rd hands. 1 1/2 ton, 3/4 ton and a little 1/4 ton.
I've always had them from 1 ton up, did a job with a friend, he had a 1/4 tonner, I immediately went and bought a couple.
Hmm, never seen one of those before. I'll have to look them up
Napa Auto Parts has them it's where I seen it, but Amazon is cheaper. I went with the 10' chain.
Shifter on the right is old one, the one on the left came out the Peterbilt. Wanting to get rid of the old one and put in one from Peterbilt as will need to be fabricated to fit and shift right starting with straightening out the first bend. Should I put on the high or low shift tower, and what are cons pros for each?
High tower-narrower gate and better leverage for smother shift. Very few come with a low tower anymore.
Guess I will find a way to switch the towers out then. Don't like the oddball sideways backwards as$ shifter.
If you pull the pin above the tower, I think you can just switch rods, if that's what you are trying to change.
Tried that when it was still in on old transmission, going to have to press it out now I have it out. Though that's what I'm going to do along with straighten the shaft out some. Heat it up till magnet doesn't stick to it bend it as needed.
you may have to buy a new isolator/pin kit. i've never had any luck trying to separate them without destroying the isolator- around here, they are usually seized together
How much does one of these things weigh? https://portland.craigslist.org/clk/hvo/d/vancouver-sheep-foot-roller/7227402564.html
A LOT!!
Sounds good to me, some moron (weekend warrior city slicker) busted up the road last summer and now we are loosing our road in. So come spring I need to fix it and put back as such and build it up. Maybe I should bill him for my time.
Set up adequate drainage where it is eroding and should slow to eliminate the road disintegrating.
That's next on the list after the road is restored. Here is what I have to drive over, don’t know where it’s going but know it needs filled in and packed down. That’s one of many.
I have ran out of time and decided to forgo the modification so all is almost back together, one more pinion seal replaced, and put last new u joints back in. Sticking them in the freezer for few hours makes it easier pressing them in with guide bolts on each side.
Welp took the rig out it finally is on the road again, slight problems here to be addressed. Found out why the instrument cluster wasn't lighting up bright when running and headlights on to point of couldn't see to drive at night, someones shoddy wiring I cut out fixed that. Another, has slight vibration when pushing it hard, I suspect new poly engine/transmission mounts are stiff as my .-. ..- -.-. -.- / ... - .. -.-. -.- on Viagra (though never tried it). Lastly my main one is speedometer is way off, when I changed the seals on the oil slinger on back of transmission with rear main seal the tooth count was same for the rotor, but I did notice the old transmission had a non adjustable speedometer sensor and the one I put in had a adjustable, would putting the adjustable one on work with adjusting and my speedometer in the cab? If so I suspect the further one screwed it out away from the rotor it would pick up less and slow the speedometer down?
Adjustment is only to get the sensor the correct spacing off the rotating element Different diffs have changed drive line speed so probably shows slower than actual Most electronic units use Dip Switches to reprogram the head for the signal Age of machine change in ratio and lack of company OE manual makes it guesswork May find something on the net if lucky
Feels like I'm going down the same rabbit hole as the last semi cause there is sure no DIP switches on it. I can call Volvo in the morning, I'm sure there is something with the 3 buttons on the cluster itself.
Could be cal in ecm
I don't think he has a ecm. I think his is a pt pump n14 with no ecm. Those buttons are the "DP" switches that Dmiller is talking about, "I think "
There is no data in Volvo's system on how to reset the speedometer nor is there any online. I could try pushing buttons and holding them down and see if I can get a menu of sorts and go from there. Though as it stands, back down the rabbit hole I go in ripping the instrument cluster out and replacing it with GPS one. When I get it up to highways speeds I can drive by RPM's, but trying to drive in the city and not speed isn't happening.
The back of your speedometer should have a series/ row of switches. 7-9 or so. You can toggle them each way to vary for different rear ratios. I've included a couple charts that I found images of. Your going to need to find out who made your gauges and hopefully a chart like I posted that corresponds to your gauges. I switched rear ratio's on my western star and I never messed with the speedometer. I just know that I'm not going as fast as the speedo reads. Its got 411's so I can't run very hard anyways.
Dipole or Dip switches
These guys are pretty good with speedometers and other things in the dash. Precision instrument 602-973-1055 they are in AZ
Unless you have a matching calibration table for the speedo head the combinations are endless. And even with a calibration chart it can be off so then comes the fine tuning. That's why I installed a GPS speedometer in the Mack, there is some lag but not much. What I bought.
I'm going with Autometer as I have in the past and is in the current RV rig I have. There is no Dipole or DIP (Dual in-line package) switches and no speedometer cable to change out. Called across the US to Volvo dealerships and ran across a fellow who said it's a gear in the back of the instrument cluster housing part number 9999-0006 and there is multiple variations that he said I would never find the right one cause they don't correspond to any ratio that he could find plus no longer made. So looks like cut gauges out put sheet of black colored aluminum over it with two holes and wire in a RPM and matching GPS speedometer.
Good idea! It's why I went that direction way less crap, about as simple as it gets. And running steady it's real accurate. I used a KW electronic tack which that kept it simple plus it was free. The less wires in a vehicle the better.
Plus I get a 15% military discount there
Now I remember Stepper motor system, were not worth a crap back in the day Changes frequency to the signal for the other variables Stupid design yet again Better off with GPS
That's pretty cool. I didn't know they even had GPS ones. I should get out more.
Farmerlund you can even get a speedometer app for your phone.
I use one on my phone every time I drive a vehicle for the first couple times. Never know if the speedometer is accurate, and I don't need any unnecessary traffic stops for something so easy to verify with today's portable technology.
I just used the phone one the other day. Got my old 68 f 100 out and running. the speedo is off cuz i changed replaced the 3 speed years ago. looks like its fast by 8 mph.
How legal is it to use a GPS speedo in the US ?
Speedometer is a speedometer, so long as registers within a percentage of accuracy no one cares.
Speedometer should be off by a percentage, not a number.
He's probably somewhere between 15 and 58mph. Its a 3 speed in a 68 f100- I doubt he's hitting 80. Do they even have speed traps in N. Dakota?
Yeah they do, seen a few driving through, rare site. Next time I should take a picture of it for keepsake They even have them in Montana on the east side, you would think 80 mph would be enough.... nope. I laugh when I see those pulled over, they deserve it for doing 86 plus mph.
Left UT in 1980 returning to MO, International Scout II with a 16' tandem Uhaul behind it. Running the old 345 as hard as I dare across WY was doing right at 80 at 11pm running I80. See car coming up pretty quick comes up alongside me turns on his Dome Light, STATE COP!!! I turn mine on, he waves, I wave back, he speeds off into the night. I am told it is STILL like that!! Just make certain the drivers are awake and attentive.
I drove my Pete for years without a working speedometer, ran four states and Canada never had a moving violation. As a mater of fact I've never had a moving violation, only one log book citation and that was minor.
I do not thank a speedometer is a requirement. Also do not thank a windshield is a requirement. Just have to have windshield wipers. So goggles, no windshield, windshield wipers and you are good until you cross the next state line and have new rules. How does it work in S A? I am sure by the seat of your pants is fine?
Speedo not required, but windshield is. Actually no instrument cluster is also fine.
Well after 3 weeks of changing this transmission out and replacing rear axle 3rd members, hitting the road today with next load. Don't know if it's cause of drive axles I pulled out but appears fluid around the rim or it could be leaking that one didn't seal right in the cold weather rain. Cleaned it up and rig is sitting on side of road sideways leaning towards possible axle leak and I don't see any dripping after 18 hrs. Got a tube of 90 minute sealant in case, gallon of gear lube and a car to get more if need be. These mountain passes are going to be fun.
60 MPH is really 52MPH. Ya its no speed demon. just a farm cruiser. Speeding tickets here are cheep 10 over the posted speed is $10 and no points.
What you don't get any S&H Green Stamps?
Had to google that one. Haven't heard of those.
Used to help Mom set hers to books for Purchases at the S&H redemption Stores.
Saw a few S&H, but my mother was an avid collector of Greenbax stamps. She would have given me all her money if I had wanted it, but NOT ONE book of stamps! It was my job to put them in the books too.
Yeah, I know they're cheap, if you stay in North Dakota. I got one on a dirt road just north of Mandaree, doing 55 in a 35. Only cost me $25. Six months later, I get a letter from State of Michigan informing me that North Dakota sent them my driving infraction ( 20 over posted speed limit) and that I was assessed with reckless driving and given 4 points on my license. My auto insurance jumped $600/year because of reckless driving on my driving record.
I was waiting for someone to make that point.
Isn’t that illegal under the statute of double jeopardy for being charged twice for the same crime? Welp made it over one pass all went smoothly, somewhere along the wiring in the rig on down to the end of the trailer is a short somewhere according to the trailer brake controller. Better RPM’s to play with on climbing and less rigs passing me, so far cranked it up to 65 mph since People’s Republic of Washington limit is 60. Seems to be getting better MPG’s too. Sitting here in Ritzville WA eating a cold MRE to avoid the Covid-19 with the wife, I could heat it up but this works.
I didn't pay a second ticket to State of Michigan, they basically took the information that they were given from a different state and filed it on my Michigan driving record. Just so happens, 20mph in Michigan qualifies as reckless driving. I dunno, maybe I should have sought legal advice. In short, this was seven or 8 years ago and I just taught my self not to speed. There's a posted limit, if I obey it, I can't get a speeding ticket.
Looks like problem with my air brakes is more than just air dryer, sitting here idling and the psi’s drop slowly till alarm comes on No leaks that are loud and builds up pressure if the RPM’s are up other than that I think it’s time to change a compressor out.
Once it gets past the check valve after the compressor hose, the compressor can leak all it wants but it should not leak any system air. Several check valves should prevent losing any air on the gauges.
I went out there and unscrewed the black cap on the governor and twisted the set screw couple turns, that’s seems to hold it overnight.
Need a second set of ears find the leak, could still be in the unloader section of compressor head, Compressor should be cut in around 90-95psi and cut off 105-120.
Hey spud, why not use your tach for speed? If have 11r22.5s should be rough 131.5" Circumference(+/-2-4")(PI x D), figure that to Rear end ratio as to revs per rotation of drive line, then only need to know rough OD ratio, .85 or .9-1? GY shows a revs per mile in their specs too. In Direct in gear box with 3.55diffs 60 should be around 1700rpm and in a light OD around 1540. For each 1 mph at speed increase from 60 should be 25rpm. Easy Math.
Your leak is after the dryer/compressor, need to soap all air lines, fittings, air tanks and valves,
Pretty close from what I observed in OD on each 25 RPM. Pushing about 70 mph at 1700 RPM according to two GPS’s and the OD ratio is about .7 something I have to look it up. I will find it just takes time.
This is going to be fun
don't forget any transmission mounted valves
Range Shift Trans, see if that changes leakage rate.
Those are brand new, didn’t hear anything last night crawling on top of it looking for a wire short.
Takes same time about a hour from 125 to alarm goes off when sitting still. Only leaks down when idling. Could it be cause the fan clutch is engaged all the time? That’s my thought process, sitting here idling in 20 degree temperatures and the engine gets up to 200 degrees if I let it, there is no automatic fan clutch engagement I have to manually run it which can’t do that while sleeping, so I leave it on when I sleep.
Geez, I didn't realize they could do that. That kind of sucks..
200 isn't high, but I'm surprised idling in 20* temp. That radiator is full of. hose from solenoid to hub or hub itself could have leak.
By the seat of your pants is no gauges.
Found one leak it’s in the proportioning valve under the 5th wheel, only reason heard it is some water got on it. Welp landed in Bozeman, be home tomorrow
R12
On most of the fan clutches I’ve worked on they were air to kick them off no air locked them in I’d buy an electric fan kit with the temp sensor not the one with the probe you stick in the radiator fins and use it to activate your fan solenoid then you could bypass all the other stuff and still keep your manual switch for emergencies
More of a BP-R1 valve as the part number is 3081426
That's a {Bob Tail Proportion valve} to limit braking while bobtail. There should be a 1/4" orange line going from Tractor Protection valve to the BP-R1 valve connected on top next to the blue control port line. If you block off the 1/4" orange line at the TP valve and plumb into a air tank port for constant air you will have regular full braking while bob tail. If the truck was converted to a 10 wheeler/straight truck that would have to be done. You only have full brake pressure when hooked to a trailer. That was only used in the early to mid 90's.
Sure... which orange line
www.bendixvrc.com/itemDisplay.asp?documentID=5505 Apply constant air to the "control" port to disable the proportioning function.
Or just install a R12 valve and block off port at TP valve. If you can't read the to of valve remove a line and apply the brakes that's the control port for service , but I'm betting it's the one on the right.
The service port is the one on the right, the control port (for the trailer brake valve) is on the left closer to the exhaust and set lower in the casting.
Going to tear into all this Sunday/Monday, first order of the day is fix trailer brakes. Lost them going down the Continental Divide pass where it was posted max speed 35 mph, was looking for a ditch or cliff wall to rub against to slow down if I didn’t stop it after I smelled the semi brakes cooking loaded at 48k lbs.
Electric Brakes are temperamental but work well when working. May have developed a short that eventually opened then defeated the system and set your adventure ride in process.
I think one of the magnets went, will find out in 24 hrs.
Looking at the picture I posted on the BP-R1 valve on my semi I took top left control port line off and ran a new line from there to one of the tanks. Took 5 minutes after I got the parts.
Time to wake this thread up, seems a fiberglass rig isn't going to last here. So far in year of ownership I have cracked the hood three times, twice in one spot and now I have lost the left side fender that protects the fuel tank. Did I crash it, nope just washboard roads and gravel roads are killing it. Suppose it's time to break out welding machine and start fabricating parts of steel...
Volvo/White/GMC hoods of those years were notorious for cracking, smooth or rough road it didn't make any difference.
She’s a helluva rig!
Yeah but I lost the rear fender too!!! Really nothing more left that is fiberglass that hasn't broken, the battery box lid has went to ***** also lost it twice so far, had to bungee cord it on. Funny going down the road watching the roof go up and down like a base speaker.