I have narrowed the choises down to four and was wondering your opion on them. They are Gyro Trac, Fecon, Loftness G2 and FMI. It will be going on a high flow skid steer with 90 to 100hp. I really want to know if one is more reliable or cheaper to mantain/ cheaper per hour to run.
You might want to look at Tushogg. I can put the head down and mulch cobble rock if I want to without destroying the teeth. The downside is the teeth are not as efficient at cutting as are other designs. It sometimes ends up beating the material into submission rather than cutting. It really depends on the material. You can go to my website I have some video with the Tushogg in action if you want to see it. The newest Tushogg models have a faster rotor speed and different style teeth allowing you to mix and match, great idea I think of getting the best of both worlds.
mulcher head I had the Fecon head on a Fecon machine and a friend of mine had a Fecon on a Cat machine. They do a good job, the Fecon machine is a bunch of junk, or the Deutz engine is anyway. You can find a bunch of used Fecon heads out there, thats the way I would go, just check it out real good and dont get one too big for your machine. Im not familar with your machine, but you will need a machine with extra cooling capacity, if you dont you will be sorry. The air filters, a/c filters will stop up pretty quick, so you had to keep an eye on them. Keep it out of the dirt as much as possible. A mulching head puts a strain on the machine and if you get stuck, most of the time you are stuck I didnt notice where you are from, but I hope you arent buying the head to HOPE you can make more money. Its tough out there and there are lots of people with these machines that are working for nothing. I was getting $140 a hour, then I had to go to $100 hr, then the engine blew up, it was the 4th time for this machine. It was time for me to get out of the business. Good Luck
I am is Missouri and was wanting to start a small business after the economy turns around. As far as I know there is nobody within three hours of here that has a mulcher, the only way people clear around here is a dozer/high lift. I think that a person could stay pretty busy after he got a good rap, cause I hate the way the ground, brush piles look after they leave.
05 rammer there have been a couple of discussion on here about mulcher heads, they are in the forestry equipment section below is a link to one. You will get a wide variety of opinions on here, I checked out the fecon, tushhogg, and the carbide cutter G2 and I purchased the G2. The main reasons where I live the size of the finished material, its works great on 4" and underbrush. I like how easy it is to change the teeth when needed. Hope this helps give me a shout if you have any questions that I can help with. Here is a link to another mulch that I would take a serious look at, I couldn't find a dealer in my area 2 years ago when I purchased mine. http://www.deniscimaf.com/en/enterprise.html
What are your guys oppions about planner teeth. The only info I can find about them is that they cut faster and make a more uniform mulch.
I use the standard teeth, I spoke to a factory rep. for loftness as well as parts manager and stated 1/2 of the life expectancy with planner teeth. The uniformity of the finished produce wasn't as important to me, If my material is too large I just run over the material again to mulch it up.
I can help with this question. 1. Planier heads cut the wood, not beat it to death. 2. Controlled bite off the material to be cut. 3. Variable displacement hydraulic motor, constantly adjust to the load being placed on the rotor. You get more work per gpm and psi you put to the head. This also will help your tractor run cooler by placing less load on the hydraulic system. That was a mouthful. 4. I can increase production 2-1 over a carbide toothed head and usually double the capacity of what can be cut. 5. Our heads come with a special grinder to sharpen the teeth on the head. Takes about 20 min a day and it will cut the same everyday. Keeps production up. 6. Yes our blades will not last as long as carbides. Normally it would take 2 sets of our blades to equal the life of carbides, but our blades are roughly half what carbide cost so that is a draw. You just get the benefit of a high quality cut thruout the life of our blades. We know have a rep for all the areas listed in your sigs and if not I will take care of whatever you need. You can see all our head run on you tube under Denis Cimaf.
I would go with a planar tooth head over a carbide head..cut quality is night and day..sharpening isnt a big deal and if you take care of it you can easily get good life from the head...I have time with ALOT of different heads and the planar has been our choice hands down....we run a CIMAF head on a Tak tb175 excavator and a CIMAF head on a RC100 skidsteer and would put them up against anything
KSSS, sorry for replying to such an old post. I see that you owned a Tushogg mulcher at one time. I own one now. It is an older model of course. My question is; how in the heck do you change the teeth on that thing? I tried many different approaches before I gave up and took it to a welder. It currently has the bullet teeth secured with the roll pins. I can’t punch those roll pins out; they are seized. I would like to install some new bullet teeth or, maybe the wood cutter teeth. I’d like to be able to do this myself without having to take it to a welder. I was hoping you might have an idea or experience that would help me. Thanks....
Zombie post warning! how about a picture of the roll pin in the teeth? doesn't seem that specific a problem that a torch wouldn't be the obvious answer?
I figure you’re probably right. If I had a torch and knew how to use it; I think that would do it. I think if i could just heat it up enough I could probably punch them out. Unfortunately I don’t have anything to get it hot enough. I’m more of a weekend warrior and don’t do this full time yet.
If you can find a carbide/masonry drill bit small enough to fit inside those roll pins and clean them out with a drill, then a propane torch might get them hot enough to loosen up. A cutting torch would heat them glowing and a quick shot of oxygen would wash most of the pin out in no time, but just heating them red hot would shrink them enough to come out easy. You'd still have to get the center cleaned out, it won't work to try to blow through packed dirt. It might be you just need a perfectly sized set of punches and the right hit to knock them loose too?