I need to pull the air compressor The manual i have shows a coupler to the drive gear. It does not make it clear how the coupler works. I think you just unbolt from block, pull the compressor back and the coupler comes with it. What holds the drive gear in position? Can someone help clarify this procedure?
sorry i have nothing to add to your question but man o man i can tell you how to get that pump to put out a lot more fuel.
That would be a fun read. Post up or PM This motor is very easy on fuel so far. Would have to go thru my notes to try and put a number on it. More power would be very helpfull though. Thanks
I've worked on those engines a bunch, but only when they were in snowcats. Wish I had something helpful. I know there aren't any real tricks to pulling the comp on an M11.
The coupler is for the power steering pump to the compressor connection. The compressor is just gear driven off the cam gear. No need to worry about a coupler. However do worry about the timing of the compressor when it goes back on. The timing of the compressor is for engine balance . Not like timing a fuel pump if you don't get it right it won't run. That looks like a holset so here are the instructions for timing the compressors. Viewing the compressor from the gear end (with the compressor in a vertical position), rotate the gear so the “l” timing mark is at the 12-o'clock position. This will set the compressor at 60 degrees before top dead center of the compressor's compression stroke. Make sure your engine is set at TDC.
Removing Cummins ISM Compressor This is obviously a little different from your C engine, but it might be that coupler you were reading about. It is just a splined metal collar. What did you find under yours? Did the gear come out with it?
That collar is what the manual shows. Nice pictures. Thanks I have not done the deed yet. Looks like i will have to go deeper to fix my oil leak. The timing cover is cracked (tried to patch and failed) The timing gear case has a big ol ugly patch running down behind air compressor (looks like it will interfere with new gasket). I am trying to round up usable parts (gear housing - gear cover - gaskets and seals). And figure out what i am up against. Looks like i will be starting at the hood and working my way in.
Fun fun. This one has a pulley driven off the gear on the front side opposite the comp. It was wobbling pretty good and making some noise. I guess the housing it rides in was a little worn out. Hopefully a new one tightens the slop and hopefully I can get that gear timed without pulling the front cover off. Good luck with that engine, the big thing I ran into was oil coolers blowing out and turning all the coolant into "Mung"
Maybe that is why i see so many oil coolers for sale? Must be a high demand item.
Are you going to have to pull the camshaft to replace the timing cover?
When Ford sent me to school on this engine, Cummins had just started sending us brackets for the rear of the compressor. You may want to check and make sure this bracket is there. If not, you may want to check for a possible warranty issue. I have done a bunch of them. If it is not a warranty issue, and you have to do it yourself, be QUICK about it. The procedure for it at the time was using wooden dowels and rubber bands to hold the lifters up. They used to have mushroomed lifters that installed from the bottom. You gotta get in and out before the wood soaks up to much oil and swells in the lifter . First one I did I had a really close call on that. It was a Hail Mary involving Vicegrips and a prybar, but it worked
Compressor rear bracket is there. Looking at the manual:dizzy Front gear housing appears to be a rough job for a novice. The cover does not look to bad to replace. Thanks Knucklehead for the tips. How many hours should this job take a skilled wrench? Remove and replace: front gear housing - gear cover - associated gaskets and seals. My guess is 6 hours.
Dont forget to advance the pump timing a couple degrees while it's all apart.
I had a #5 injector line break today on my 8.3L, is this a common thing? It looked like this one had been replaced before>
how far is Sunbright,TN from asheville NC?
Distance between Asheville(NC) and Sunbright(TN) is 151 miles
Not to replace the cover. To replace the gear housing the cam comes out. That is where the dowels and rubber bands come in; to hold the tappets up. How much time do you have before the dowels seize in tappets?
I'll have the cover off the ISM tomorrow, get you some pics just for fun.
Honestly I don't remember if that was a common problem or not. The only thing I do remember was the line splitting from over torque on the fuel line nut. I even had several lines split in my own truck, 6.9 diesel in an 84 ford f250 from over torque. The fuel line nuts torque is 18 ft -lb. The other thing that could break fuel lines are missing vibration isolators. If yours is just breaking off I would check to make sure you are not missing an isolator.
If I remember right I think that was @ what warranty time was,but don't hold me to that. It may take a little longer maybe not as long.Like I said, the biggest concern is how long the cam has to be out. Neverenuf is right,if you give it a couple degrees of timing it will make a big difference. Just remember to watch your temps pretty close. If you get in a hard pull it will warm up a little quicker. Good luck and post the pics.
Cummins ISM with front cover off Hey UnderDog, When you make your parts list, there were several square rings behind the cover I didn't know about, on a different page from the one with the gasket, you might hit the same thing. Oh, and all new bolts come with the cover gasket. Do you have to pull the front motor mount to open yours up? I went with blocks and bottle jacks to support the engine.
Nice picture. What are you looking for in there. I just got started ordering parts. Have a case and cover coming. The gaskets are proving a problem to get online. It is around 80 miles to the local dealer. They do E-mail but not online ordering. Says i have to go over there and place the order, then they may be able to ship. Oh well i was not in a big hurry anyway. Sure would like that oil leak fixed though. I hate working on and trying to visual inspect an oily mess.
Anyone have an opinion or experience on China made gaskets? I am getting closer to locating gaskets. China keeps coming up? Examples: Lower Gasket set On place says $164.00 seems low Another says Victor Reinz Gaskets $241.00 I am trying to understand.....