I have a phase 3 ser# JJG0025?96 (shifter on the side connsel), I went to shift from 2nd to third and when I put it back in forward........... nothing. now it won"t move forward or back in any gear. I'm hoping it's just the auto neutral solenoid stuck but I'm not usually that lucky.
Are you sure it's in gear? those shifters can bind up, and get between the two rails.
I'm as sure as I can be, it has always needed you to be very firm with the shifter. where is the neutral switch solenoid located and is there a by-pass test.
Under the floor plate in front of the seat, It takes power to declutch it, so unplugging it will do the electrical test, I think if you unscrew it a little, that will let the valve close if it's stuck, but it's been awhile since I've thought about one.
Will it drive with the 4 speed gear shift in neutral? I have seen them engage two gears at the same time & that will cause a transmission lock up. A broken axle will also stop drive. Raise the machine, turn it off, & try to rotate the wheels by hand. If one spins freely - you have an axle problem.
I tried turning the rear wheels and they turn but are stiff, I disconnected the shifter linkage under the tractor and moved the shifter shafts (clamped vise grips on) and you can feel the gears engauge and even hear them. I removed the floor panel and the forward/reverse plunger linkage is good. when I checked the rear dipstick the oil level was low, I topped it up with hy-trans and still nothing. I'm worried my ole basket case has some internal issues! I really appreciate the help guys, thanks
Is the driveshaft running? check it when it is not in gear and in gear and the shuttle engaged, with the throttle above an idle. This transmission is totally different than the ones that have the solenoid and wires to disconnect so forget that. The shuttle clutch pack is in the transaxle above the top transmission shaft on these units and the bell housing contains the TC and the transmission pump and some regulator valves. The clutch disconnect solenoid is located on top of the transmission beneath the floor board. The first thing is to see if the driveshaft is running between the bell housing and the transaxle with the machine in gear ready to move. If the driveshaft runs with the transmission in a gear the problem is in the transaxle or the powershuttle not being engaged . One of the clutch disconnect switches could have failed and sending a disconnect signal to the clutch disconnect also. Watching the driveshaft will tell you if power is going back to the transaxle then you can go from there. Mel
SHE LIVES!!!!!! I was getting access to the trans axle expecting the worst and I tapped the clutch disconnect solenoid on the top of the trans axle and whamo........ the wheels started turning. ordering a new solenoid tomorrow pphhheewwww. another couple questions, could one of you very knowledgeable gents walk me through the procedure for changing the oil in the transaxle, and when you change the hydraulic filter, how do you pre fill a filter that is screwed on in a horizontal position
When you drain the transaxle, take out and clean the strainer on the suction pipe down by the back wheel, when you order the solenoid, order a gasket for the strainer. You can't pre-fill the filter, cause it's mounted horizontally, the oil will pour back out. Pour the oil in through the dipstick tube behind the seat. I forget how much it holds, maybe about 5 gallons?
Let me start by saying I know nothing absolutely nothing about your particular machine but you NEVER EVER pre-fill filters before installing them. The oil flows through a filter from the outside to the inside so whatever oil you put into the centre of the filter gets sucked straight into the system without being filtered. New oil is NOT clean, therefore the function of the filter is to clean that oil before it gets anywhere where it can do any harm, especially in a hydraulic system. in the case of a fuel system the filters should be installed dry and then use the priming pump to fill the filters and bleed it before starting. If I ever caught any of my guys pre-filling filters I'd take a machete and cut their fcukin' hands off so that they couldn't do it again .................
Wow Nige! That's interesting, I usually prefilled hydraulic filters when I can and always prefill fuel filters, I just thought "that was the way". What your saying makes sense I just thought that prefilling was the norm. I bet this would make for a very interesting thread on its own. Thanks for the input.
In this day & age with hydraulic and fuel system components being made to ever tighter tolerances the last thing you want to do is allow any sort of contamination into the system. Honestly you would be amazed (and probably a bit scared) if I told you just how much "dirt" there is in brand-new shiny oil.
That's good news! There is one drain plug on the transaxle to drain it. No need to prefill the filter, just screw it on and fill it to level, start it and allow it to run for a minute or so and refill to level. I do not like the idea of prefilling filters as any oil dumped into the center is unfiltered and dirt could be dumped right into the oil galleys or into the injection pump if there is any contamination in the container. Mel