I’m considering going to look at a 04 F550 with a 6.0 Powerstroke mechanic boom truck. I know the horrible things I’ve heard, but it seems like a good deal. Is there any advice you could give of what to look for when checking it over? Thanks Brandon
Scanner to view FICM voltage and high pressure oil pump pressure. Decent difference in oil/coolant temp can indicate a oil cooler in need of replacement.
Yeah...hmmm well....if you are willing to do all the mods...it could turn out ok...if not...well hmmm.yeah....that is alot like saying if a cow died 30 days ago and is half price and i can still save the meat..and there is only an 80% chance of getting sick....is it still worth it...sorry i bought 3 of em brand new and when i think about them i still get the runs..
Are they really that bad? What all mods need to be done, just the egr delete? I would figure someone could have something good to say lol.
Yeah...injectors...ihop pump mod...head bolts...egr....head gaskets...special valve cover gasket problems...etc...etc...etc....cooler...man i tried to forget everything...so i know i am forgetting something. 6.4 is worse though
Gosh oh!! I don’t know now... I was hoping some people just had bad luck. Figured you could find a good one every now & then.
We just got one at work its a flatbed with a crane. In the around 100 they have put on the truck its been great. If you can get it for scrap price buy it.We got this one for the bed they were going to sell the truck for a 1000.00 and put the bed n something else but now their going to use it till something gos wrong.
It’s got a tool bed with service crane 4x4 truck. But has 300xxx some miles on it. Looks good from the pics they sent. I’ve not seen it in person or checked anything, I was just hoping someone would have something good to say.
Well ford and navistar darn near lost their shorts over the 6.0 and 6.4...and the vt 365 is a 6.0...i do agree though if u get it at scrap price it is worth it.....you can put something else under body when it blows
300 xxx most likely something was done to it...i dont know of any that made it that far without some work
I called mine 6.NO. Total junk. F450 with service body, engine went to ford way too many times, the last had an estimate for a new engine at $18,000. it went to the scrapyard. Head gaskets About sums it up.
I bought my F550 a year earlier than I had planned to get the 7.3 instead of the 6.0 and I'm glad I did. I've been a Ford truck buff since I started driving, well maybe even before that and the 6.0 was a terrible engine. Soon after they came out dealers had more trucks parked around back waiting for engine transplants than they did out front for sale. The variable turbo was a big problem, head gaskets among other things. Some shops did figure out how to make them reliable but without the modifications I'd say it's a ticking time bomb. Stay away from the 6.4 too.
I love the V-10 gasser in my pet pickup.
I’ll have to ask if any of the upgraded mods have been done it. Sounds like they’re rough engines to deal with. Lord knows all I need is 1 more thing around here to work on. Wish I’d hear better news but glad you all speak the truth.
We call them FIX LITRES
Will a 7.3 go in it
Darn i thought i knew all the names for them.....didnt know that one. Thanks for the laugh
Seen one with a 5.9 cummins...even heard there is/was a kit to do it....not sure about 7.3 though
I’ll have to do some searching on foogle to see. Thanks for everyone’s input on this. More advice is welcome
How do I check the high volume oil pump pressure? Is that just with the oil pressure gauge or something else? Lol sorry if that’s a dumb question
I got 97 F450 7.3, with 6000# crane, 240000 miles - that engine starts in two seconds without glow plugs at 32F.
Well i can tell u this....when 99 % of the responders on this site agree on one question....that says something lol...first time i have ever seen this.. It is always cat vrs cummins /ford vrs dodge/ pete vrs kenworth....you get the point....so for 99% to agree is pretty much all the advice i would need lol.....now can we get back to the fun stuff and have some friendly differences in opinion...this is kinda freaking me out lol...
Your cheating.....everyone knows the 7.3 is awesome....your just rubbing it in lol.
Easy way to check is with computer....you can also tell by how it starts if it is getting bad.
The thing is - I got another 96 7.3 on f250 4x4 - that one when it gets below 50F turns into ether addict! And last thing - all me medium duty trucks will be Ford 7.3, I know - they are on the “hungry” side, but I hate aches in my head and soft tissues!
Brandon They are not all bad. I have an early 04 - 03 model block, truck has 820,000km on it. Working on Engine #2 first went 760,000km then eat a lifter. The heads lifted at 200000, redone all stock, has always been stock. Second engine I bought from a scrapyard, it was the identical block from another 03. It now has 60000km on it since installed, I did nothing to it but install and run it. In its like it had its problems. Head gaskets, 2 oil coolers, 3 sets injectors. A bit more trouble than my previous 7.3s. Good engine though runs very strong, pulls like a train. You could not get me to give it up, despite age related up keep costs now. Ya its an early 04 engine, bad coolers, weak HPOP, blows turbos among other things. changed oil cooler twice, original HPOP still in both blocks, original turbo still in use, needed one FICM. There are some that are real horror stories, but some are reliable. I would say more good than bad, once you learn how to maintain them they not so bad as everybody thinks. Don't be to afraid of them, but do do your homework for sure and check over well.
All my 7.3 started good once i upgraded the glowplugs...they were loud and drank fuel...but for the year they beat the 6.2 chev and 6.5 for that matter...the cummins was pretty much always good in that generation
7.3 nowhere near as loud as 12 valve! That 5.9 is a ear popper!
Yep never had to wonder if it was running or not.
dporter... Thanks & thanks to everyone as fas as that goes. I understand that all will need work at some point. I by no means am looking for pure trash, it wouldn’t be a everyday work truck just kinda use it around my place piddlin on my own Equipment. I’ll go check it over the best I can & base my decision from there. I hate so many bad things have been said but I’m glad too. At least I know what I may be getting into.
I heard that if you delete everything unnecessary on that engine it can be really easy on fuel. Around 20gpm empty riding, don’t know if it’s true. IRP bolts could help with heads, but what to do with constant oil leak problems - I still don’t know that secret!
Yep you to can be a 6.0 genius for less than the cost of university..i am sure more than a few of us have that degree...i have learned a lot about engine because of the 6.0....an education i use everyday on different engines....and i have the advantage of not fearing any engine anymore lol...
Mount a couple 45 gallon drums on roof....like those beer redneck hats?
I didn’t work on many 6.0s but the last one it was sweet engine, starts in 1/4 of the second, smooth like silk, pulls really good! But boy is it a dirty b*****d! Started with a front seal, had to replace it three times, I believe last two with wear sleeve, than started leakage oil from right head, then the left head, finally it leaked from somewhere between the heads and my friend who owned it pulled the plug on it! Ex BNSF truck, still had those rail wheel brackets on.
I’m bout to think maybe if this one has 300,xxx plus miles maybe all the updates have been done & problems fixed to be able to have that many miles. It’s also been a company fleet maintained truck, so maybe the maintenance has been kept up a little better. Ahh no need to worry about it till I ask some more info on it.
All joking aside, I know several guys that have them in personal trucks and do okay, minor problems. The industrial setting is what seems to do them in in my part of the world. I have run a few of them in F550 shop trucks. I HATED the gear jammers. The 6.0 likes to rev so the automatic made it much nicer, would let it get up into its power band. I did lots of off hiway mountain driving on logging roads. I bought a 98 Chevy with the 6.5 in it against all of my friends advise, it was 5 years old when I got it. They are not the best engine either but here it is 2019 and I still have it. I have 3 of the magic black boxes in my glove compartment ready for the next time it decides to crap out on me. We have a real love hate relationship.
Funny, my main work truck is a '98 Chevy K3500 with a 6.5 too. 220,000 miles now, 1 injector pump at 160,000 miles, 1 PMD (since relocated) Not much else so far. Oh, 5 glow plugs last winter. It's not a powerhouse, but it's been reliable. and hits 15 MPG most of the time.
That's the old beast.
It’s all comes down to price! At this point pay more attention to crane and body, I wouldn’t get anything less then 6000# crane! My 6000# only rated 675# fully stretched out, 6000 is fully redacted and lifted high, basically right at trucks side. Only ones that can go higher on rating is “maintaners” but those have turrets mounted not on top of cabinet - but straight on the frame! So you loosing a storage space! I wouldn’t give more than $5000 for that truck and even that in very good service body and crane condition! Just a price of body and crane. 4x4 does count for something, depending on conditions you are planning to work in. What transmission is in it, 5speed or Eaton autoshift? Does it have hydraulic driven compressor and welder on?
Those old Detroits as far ask know not that bed beside controller, but if you relocated -shouldn’t give you much trouble. Is your transmission manual?
No, 4L80 auto, It's been trouble free too. I do use 4 lo anytime I get offroad just to keep the load off the convertor and trans.
What about climbing hills? 3500 RPMs and 10mph?
Pretty much.
I have two of them: bigger F450 with the crane, don’t use it often, just when I need to remove something like cylinder or a motor from machine. And Silverado 2500, bought it because it’s a ex AT&T service body, got a lot of drawers nooks and crannies! I’m independent, so I work on anything that comes my way, American, Japanese, European, Korean, so I have train load of different adapters and fittings, and that body is good for it! But now even that one getting too small!
TVA- The crane on it is a venturo ht40kx rated for 6,000# at 6ft & 2,000# at 20ft. It has an automatic transmission in it. The welder has been removed & as far as I know never had a pto driven air compressor.
TVA- that’s about what I’d be doing with this one. Removing cylinders & engines when needed from my own machines. Not looking to be in business with it.
That's a nice stout crane.
This is the one I use when I need more crane or more tools.
TVA- That’s what I was thinking about the crane being stout too. I also agree with ya on the price, I believe I can buy really close to your # mentioned. Ahh I’ve gathered some helpful info & gonna check her out the best I can, ask a few more questions now.
Is that Autocrane ?
If that true - that’s a good crane! So it sits on the frame, not on top of cabinet?
Yep, 6006 electric with a 14' boom.
Those are good, their hydraulic ones ain’t worth a crap!
How much do they ask for it?
The electrics are half the weight of the hydraulics, and they don't have creep issues. Best part is I can use it in the shop using the battery charger and not running the truck engine.
It was about six months ago on local craigslist I saw few F series for sale ranging $450-700, no titles, couple of them was 7.3, I think one was power stroke, and one IDI, but you never know what condition those are in.
I’m looking for Isuzu NPR or similar size Fuso, but in 4x4, to transfer body from Silverado, there should be space left to add more cabinets and build a nice stout “workbench bumper” on the back! Wanna have two regular and one or two pipe vises, removable, so it’ll be very nice to work on cylinders. BTW old 4” flatbed straps make really nice protectors for the rods! But fire hose is better!
TVA- what I can tell of it, it looks like it’s mounted on a pedestal that’s mounted to the flat part of the bed. Maybe mounted to the frame as well. But I know it’s up tall enough for the crane to be above took boxes on that side. The truck also has hydraulic jacks on the back corners.
I sure miss mine.
I am on my 3rd 6.0 truck. Once they hit a 100 k miles some issues will arise. In order to make sure I am not stuck on the side of the road with issues, I do preventive repairs. I go ahead and replace the injectors, the orings in the oil rails, the stand pipe orings, new engine oil cooler. Egr delete. FCIM can be self repaired watch a youtube video, I did mine my self. It takes about a day and will save you about $700.00. All these parts wear out and need to be serviced. All repairs on truck are done by me. I would get a scanner to watch your HPOP pressures and check other items. I use the autoenginuity ford scanner and it does ok. My 6.0 has been studded and runs a programmer on tow setting. It is great on fuel. 5 miles per gallon more than my 7.3. Got it with a 115k and now close to 150k. Love the truck fuel economy and power. It makes a 7.3 seem like old school garbage but the 7.3 is still my go to heavy hauler. My 6.0 will put the power to the ground and it holds up. You are 100% going to ruin stock head gaskets if you use a programmer on the truck to increase the power. Go ahead and stud it and run it.
Georgia Iron- Good to hear a little positive info. The truck has already got 300,xxx plus miles on it, so I’m guessing all the mods are already done or it may be toast. I wouldn’t be using the truck everyday hard working just on my place working on my own equipment. I wouldn’t be interested in a programmer to demand high h/p out of it. I don’t care to spend money on preventive maintenance & repairs. I understand things are gonna go bad. But just didn’t want pure garbage.Your preventive maintenance such as the parts you listed above, are those things that need changed every so often or is it like one time & done. Then just monitor them the best you can for things going sour. Do you run you scanner on it at all times, or is it something you hookup every so often to check things out. What brand of items do you use to replace with. Oil cooler- Head Gaskets- EGR delete- Injectors- ORings for the oil rails & Stand pipe I’m assuming ARP studs? Thanks a ton for the info
Sure thing. I only use the scanner to help me determine if I have a problem or I need to figure out why the truck is having a hard start. These trucks will develop a problem restarting once the parts i listed start to age. It will start to surface when you pull a trailer and get it hot. Shut it off and you can not get it to restart. The injectors work using a high pressure oil pump (HPOP). This sends the oil through the top rails and standpipes. There are orings in there that will "weep" or leak. Once the oil gets hot it thins out and will leak faster. As the truck ages the leaks will get to the point that it will not start until the motor re-cools. According to a lot of guys i have talked to the injectors will start to fail around 115 to 130 k miles. I do not need one failing when I am far away from home so once one starts acting up, I replace them all with new units not rebuilt. I believe Alliant is what I use. https://www.xtremediesel.com/xdp-manufacturers/alliant-power When you open the motor up to work on an injector it is time to replace all the other items so you are good for another 100k. I use factory ford parts and something like this https://www.amazon.com/03-10-Ford-6...ocphy=1015474&hvtargid=pla-625485226065&psc=1 to get into the oil rails. If you do this work yourself it is easy to see and understand why it must be done the orings just wear out over time. I dont like spending money on preventive maintance but you can spend 2500 now and do it yourself or you could get out of town and spend that much to fix one injector. And better yet it is always better to repair a truck when you want to versus when it tears up at the worst time.
Georgia Iron- Thanks for your advice & tips on these engines. I appreciate you taking the time to help out with your words of wisdom sir. I couldn’t agree with you more on rather fix it at home than 3 hours away somewhere with the bill racking up to a unbelievable number. You’ve given me a little heads up of what to look out for & what to expect. Thanks Brandon