Ended up selling my old 74 case 350 crawler loader for this gem. Didnt quite get a super awesome deal, but there was just enough meat on the bone to seal the deal. (12k) Engine runs, everything works except the high speed track option, it needs a new track, and the engine puffs and misses a little at high rpm-no load; but clears up when actually doing work. Did I mention the pilot valves are leaking? oh what fun. Turns out it does have a VE pump, please dont scare me <3
Here is the new track they installed, the other side is slick and stretched all the way out. (tries to jump off)
have you changed fuel filters already on this machine? Also check if the 12 volt fuel lift pump is still working (2nd picture bottom right hand corner , its mounted on top of fuel filter also check for possible water/fuel contamination
The seller drained and cleaned the tank, and replaced the fuel filter. (I watched him) Ill check the lift pump, good idea.
with ignition turned on and engine not running the 12 volt pump should be humming along
well, that pump doesn't work, just checked. Ill check for power later. I really appreciate the info!
kinda doubtful if any of those machines were factory shipped with the 2 speed drive option installed
It has a rabbit symbol on the panel, but they may just because they only make 1 panel for it.
I had a 287B and I'm pretty sure it had the sticker showing two speed in the cab but I "think" that the two speed wasn't even available on the B series MTL's, it wouldn't be the first time I was wrong though.... Good luck with your project, once you get her fixed up take a lot of care on how you twist an turn with her, those tracks do not like rock, if your run it with a little common sense those tracks will last a long time. How many hours on that?
With machine running ready to roll. Does the rabbit symbol light up if you press and release trigger on left hand joystick?
That's the ones that are a bear to time.. not so much the operation, just the room or lack of it.. Just remove the front cover, oil fill.. and rotate the engine until you can get the #'s to line up around the 9:00 position.. 2#'s on the idler & 1 on the pump..THEN pull the pump.. Here's hopin you don't have to go down that road.. Have fun..
nope, it also has 4 buttons on the top, tried all those, nothing works except the horn (top left corner ) yeah, I dont plan on pulling it, hoping that since the lift pump doesn't work, its just weak.... I recall VE pumps in cummins engines dying prematurely because the lift pump died.... better get that fixed asap and hope the pump isn't cavitating.
2700
If you post the S/N it's easy enough to find out if it was originally shipped from the factory with 2-speed.
According to what I can see it is not equipped with 2-speed.
If HVGUY was able to restore an old crawler he might be able to install 2 speed motors and make the 277B into a 2 speed machine. I have few guys in my area that have done it already
I have read about people doing this... However, I got under there and noticed there are 2 BIG hoses and a smaller hose.... as if it has a little shuttle for 2 speed.... On another note, I went to change the oil... snapped a bolt off the inspection plate and had to excavate a couple pounds of dirt to get to the drain plug. Needless to say; this oil hasn't been changed in a LONG time.
That's impressive..!!! LOL
the small line is probably the case drain for drive motor
So far, this is easier to work on than the track loader. Had about 80 pounds of dirt and sand in the engine compartment. Plus I found the track tensioning tools covered in cancer.
It looks like there are 2 big hoses and 2 small hoses going to the drive motors... Hmm
Two drive hoses, one case drain hose and one park brake release hose.
Well, there goes my hopes and dreams. Rip
1 5/8 and 15/16 crow foot if I remember. Assuming the track motor bracket pivot bolt doesn't come loose. Unless these are different than the 257 style?
well, i figured out what was wrong with the left side track.... why am I plagued with track problems? I received a copy of the track receipt and called the MFG they bought it from. Turns out the mfg apparently sent them a 56 lug track, and they needed a 55. I verified that it actually takes a 56 and its too short and interfering with the frame and breaking the lugs off. damn gypsies
It gets better, so now that I need 2 new tracks for a machine that already supposedly had a new track; I called the guy I bought it from and he basically told me I got a deal and he wasn't paying anything, eat dirt. It appears that the rear adjuster is welded? ill post a pic.
Is swearing allowed on here? Because I have really been holding back.
I think youd feel better just letting out a good yell....I'm guessing they "welded" that because the tracks were too big and couldn't get the adjustment needed with the bolts. The "good news" is all the bolts are just standard course thread grade 8, you should be able to grab em from a hardware store. The tracks may be off of something else they own and just wanted to send em down the road with the machine. You could keep an eye on CL for a used set but that may take a while. If you do need to buy new tracks make sure you buy em from a reputable manufacturer, there's a lot of garbage out there for those style tracks, get the wrong ones and they'll stretch then tear real easy and you'll be right back where you are now. I followed your other thread about the Case, you seem like a persistent person, you'll get this thing figured out , just be patient....
I called mclaren out of California, seems reputable, looks like it'll be 2860 for 2 tracks
This may sound nuts, but try your local Cat dealer, sometimes they have good deals on those style tracks...a call doesn't cost too much, it may save you a little....
I called them first, it's 2850 for 1 track lol. And it's another 565 for a lift pump
Try trackloaderparts.com.
Well, I pulled the plug going to the lift pump, its not getting power. I poked around in the fuse box, but I dont see its fuse. Ill check them all with a DMM and hope I find it that way.
If you want an Electrical Schematic send me a PM (or whatever they're called now) with your email address.
message sent
I have a spare 277 track laying in my shop, along with brand new seals and seal puller. I also have some used undercarriage wheels and I think some new ones
Lifted the machine today to pull the tracks... only to find out there isn't a single bearing left in the rollers. The gypsies that sold this to me can burn in hell.
Wow, some people's dishonesty in selling a used machine is absolutely appalling. You know they knew some major things were wrong and sent it packing without informing any future buyers. If it sounds too good to be true, it is.
your right about that. Im just hoping the axle and tube isn't destroyed. I just got the loose track off (which was harder than it looked) Ended up cutting the inside motor bracket tensioner bolt off since I couldnt get to it with an impact, used a sledge hammer to slide the carriage forward, rotated the front upper idler roller, unbolted the squirrel cage, used 2 straps to hold the track up off the cage, pulled it free; then using 2 pry bars, just rolled the track off like a tire. Moving on to pulling one of the lower roller assemblies.
ohhhhhh woooowww, throw the whole thing away and start over -_-
try Bair products I see them advertised all the time those track parts. never bought anything from them
thats the first place I went, however; its going to cost about $4800 JUST for the axle assembly using my old wheels.
Any way to get them built back up by a machine shop cheaper?
I am a machine shop lol, However I did message the guy's wife over FB which is who I was dealing with, she had me call him. He actually seemed upset that I was accusing him of knowing that the rollers were destroyed. He asked what I wanted and I said $2k back to help fix this. He offered 1k and sign a waiver?... I figured it was better than nothing. Going up there monday. fingers crossed he doesnt cancel the check he gives me.
lol.. did not know that.. good to know.. Atleast he was "willing" to deal.. he could have told you to take a flyin leap.. good luck
Lol I completely expected him to tell me to go pound some salt.
I have followed both your threads on the track loader and now this disaster...dont you take the time to look at the machines you buy? why didnt you check the tracks for the proper ones and the under carriage for worn parts or welded parts together before buying it? all the issues on your new machine could have easily be seen or found with a little inspection, if for nothing else its showing what can happen without properly inspecting a machine before purchase, they say an education costs at the end your gona have one heck of a degree..lol..sorry not picking on you, but you have to admit this is part your fault..it goes back to the old statement" buyer beware"...
I would be telling him you want a refund or you will see him in court, once you sign that waiver you will be done with any legal recourse, what else is wrong with that machine that he is willing to get away for a 1k refund, it sounds like that cat was put together with spare parts just to roll out the door to get rid of it, be very careful about what you sign. how was the original bill of sale written up? any guarantee or " sold as is where is"?
It might be a good idea to sort out the engine miss and smoke before you spend too much on undercarriage. Hopefully it is just low fuel pressure but these engines are known to be a weak point.
I feel for ya dude.. nothing like takin it in "the ol' starfish" when your tryin to make a buck.. Lol BELIEVE ME, I know how it feels.. my pop tester broke when I was doing one of our members a favor.. I said I would check them for free, so I drove 35 miles 1way to use a friends tester.. 70 miles round trip. While on my way I picked up a big nail and it knotted the side wall.. nobody will plug it.. new tire, 150.00 and 150.00 for a new pop tester.. a 300.00 lose for the day.. lol Like the old saying goes, ya win some, ya loose some..
I always say no good deed goes unpunished.
Try Track Loader Parts in GA.
Sorry but have to agree with Hobbytime. The seller wants you to sign a waiver so you can't complain about anything else that's bad. You're setting yourself up for disappointment. I bought a Cat and put a lot into it so it's now a good machine but I'm now a firm believer it's cheaper to pay someone with experience to check a machine over than pay thousands more fixing stuff you never considered.
I did look at the tracks, they werent cracked, all was fine... probably because they hadn't driven it since they fixed it. Plus the rollers had weight on them so they all looked tight. Easy come easy go I guess, its just money lol. At least Ill know the tracks arent going to give me any **** down the road. I really need that; seeing as im pretty fed up with tracks pulling one way or the other from my loader days. It says as is where is, Im not super worried. They did pull through with the 1k. Even if I paid full price for new rollers, I could still resell it and turn a profit after using it for my property. Yeah, I still need to tinker with the pump. Ive figured out that the pump isn't getting power, but it seems easy enough to figure out, especially since Nige sent over some schematics to help. (thanks again) To be fair, when I got there today, they pointed out that I signed the paper and near the bottom, it says as is, where is... However they still gave me 1k cash. I couldnt complain. Even if I bought all the parts new, id still have enough meat on the bone to resell it and still turn a profit.
They want $16,500 for just the bogies lol, thats up there with dealer prices. However it comes with new wheels. Im considering turning my own shafts and pressing in new bearings and seals... my housings are still good, just the shaft is destroyed. Thankfully the old bearing races saved the day and ate away at the axle and kept the housing somewhat safe. Axle stock: $400 bearings: $65 seals: $115 Total for all 12 rebuilds: $580
As long as you break even or after all repairs you are ok with the price of the machine and cost of repairs( and all the fun doing it..lol) then all that matters is your happy with it.....and it makes you some good coin in the end...
sounds like thats the way togo, if you can do the machining yourself thats great!! is there any way to machine out the hubs on all the rollers and weld in new centers with new bearings?
Yep, if I use to to build my whole house and sell it to break even, I still came out on top seeing as I didnt have to rent one. Making new hub plates, finding that big metric 72mm tube would be a chore. Ill just rebuild whats there.
I hope the bearings you are getting are sealed bearings. Then don't put the triple seals that came in it back in there. ( Thats the whole problem with those idlers. The seals are inadequate to keep the dirt out and the bearings they come with are unshielded) . I replace mine with shielded bearings, then I made a tool that I can cut seals out of a conveyor belt. I then stack the new homade seals in to replace the original ones. Then I don't worry about lube in the idler. This last twice as many hours as the original design.
Great minds think alike... Funny you should say that, I've got a few hundred feet of conveyor I can use. This will save me a chunk of change in seals. Thanks for the idea!
So I used a sledge and cant hammer the shaft out... Is there a trick to this?
If you've removed the circlips it should come apart. Bigger hammer maybe?
circlips? havent seen any lol, maybe thats my problem. I havent taken the seals out.. are they under them?
and now that im looking at the seals... how in the hell do they suppose you take the seals out? drill and tap them, attach a slide hammer and pull?
Yes, it looks like the circlips are under the seals. Drill and tap? Sound like a bit of a faff to me. Try punching a hole with a screwdriver/hammer combination and prying them out. I'm pretty busy at the moment but I'm sure someone with more time on their hands will come along soon and post a copy of the D&A
Yes, the seals will need to be pulled however you decide to do it. On the upside your not hurting them because they are the reason you have to go in there to start with. To add to my previous post, the tool I made for making seals, I made two cutting sleeves and welded them them together. One inside the other and welded them together in a lathe so the holes in the seals would be true to the circumference. I then use a press to cut the seals out of the conveyor belt.
When I did them on my 287B, I sharpened two big screwdrivers, really big screwdrivers, and pryed the seals out, it's not fun and it takes a while but it gets the job done....
Great, bigger hammer. Check ☑
Bigger hammer didn't work, this seal is putting up a hell of a fight.
Those seals are really thick, not just a simple lip seal. You could try drilling through one and then running a a lag screw through it. Sometimes the lag screw will push the seal out. If it doesn't you can pull on the screw. Has that roller pictured really failed or just leaking? If it's just leaking you can pump it full of a grease and oil mixture and it will be ok. I did that with all my leaky rollers 3 years ago. Still running them. Also these rollers will move a lot in the mounts on the frame because of a worn mounting slot. Some movement when installed is just because of that. The first shaft you showed is a definite failure though . Hope they're not all like that.
Burn them out with a torch,
I need to disassemble it to copy down all the measurements of the shaft. And the seal is worn to death. thats the plan lol
Track Loader Parts in GA rebuilt my axles after I bught the ASV seal removal tool and had no luck removing the seals. I asked them how they got the seals out and they told me they burn them out with a torch. Made sense to me.
I never had a problem removing any seals.
do you put sheet metal screws into the seal through those holes? Looks simple
Self tapping screws into the seal, then popped them out.
Bit tip screws into the seal. Turn the big screw. Bit tips pull out. Torch works.
Any updates?
why do people buy these machines? they have the worst undercarriages.
Not at the moment, been too busy riding bikes in the awesome weather in south texas because with a little elbow grease, it'll be a bad ass machine for a fair price. Besides, I only need for it to run another 200 hours or so; then ill send it on down the road.
I'm still here! somehow. Finally got around to being an adult and not pouring money into my dirt bike I ordered the axle stock and the bearings. Axles: $480 from mcmaster carr https://www.mcmaster.com/#6689t34/=16zydbw bearings: $72 for all 26 bearings on ebay http://www.ebay.com/itm/6207-2RS-C3...157164?hash=item1c7c56f22c:g:jAMAAOxy4dNS9AJI Going to cut it all up and machine them this weekend.
moving right along (somewhat) Wrote up a quick program and machined a few axles to start. I figured out I need to probably put a C-clip to keep the bearings and hub centered on the axle... More to do.
i'll give you props for doing what you're doing. how will you keep the dirt away from the bearings? i imagine those seals don't keep out dirt and water.
They will to some degree. I plan on taking the idea from another member; he used a punch to cut out seals from conveyor belt material and smash it in place of the old stuff.
Check the relay before you replace the lift pump. Mine was installed so that the connection can get corroded.
I've seen this too. If i remember correctly the relay was just inside the rear door on the right side attached to the wire harness mounted upside down so that water could collect inside the cover.
Sup fam! Finally getting around to making those axles. Got them all machined and notches for the retainer clips ground in. One thing I am going to have an issue with is the seals to keep debris out. Since conveyor belt is going to be a manual labor nightmare, I opted for cutting them out of a sheet of Delrin (acetyl) to save time, and for a more "brick **** house" approach. Having them pressed into the hub and allowing about 4 thou of tolerance between the shaft and the seal... should keep rocks and junk out. Plus seeing as the bearing seal is attached to the outer race, even if something gets in there, it won't grind against the seal. Fingers crossed, ill order the sheet this week and turn them out next weekend (hopefully)
hmmmm, maybe ill make this as a kit and sell er on ebay.
might be a long shot, but if you could somehow search for wheel bearing seals, based on the inner diameter of the housing, and the outer diameter of the rod.
I did poke around for a bit but, the only thing that worries me, is the factory triple lip seal is garbage... and if you have ever seen it.... it looks like a seriously durable part. I have read of people replacing them and getting 100 hours till the oil pours out. Im going with a "rock shield" of sorts to keep large debris from contacting the bearing seal, and hoping for the best.
It looks like I could get this seal: https://www.grainger.com/product/DDS-Dual-Lip-with-Spring-Rotary-53XJ20 buuuutttt, its a seal, and it doesnt look like seals on these tracks have a very long life... Maybe press this seal waaayyy into the hub, then press a delrin shield on top of that? double seals with a rock guard? food for thought.
seal and delrin on top sounds good. what if you pack grease behind the seal? would that be better?
hmm, possibly, problem is all the seals will cost about $220 plus $150 for the delrin. But damn would it be durable.
Also, what about this, I can get aluminum cheaper than plastic... what if I use the seal and an aluminum disc to keep large stuff from damaging the seal...
Bair uses an aluminum disc bot it does not press in it just rides loose. Kind of useless if you ask me.
yeah, that sounds... a little short of being reliable.
Try Harwall Seals in NH.
if you could find cheaper seals, maybe put 2 seals each side.
ill poke around on ebay. Really makes me wonder what kills the OEM seals? Could just be ****** bearings, contaminated oil,
See Harwal seal. Call them for prices. they have 3 locations in the US
Just throwing it out there BUT>> what about cutting the Delron thick enough to hold an oring on the outer diameter ?? GOD FORBID someone comes up w/ a better mouse trap than the "almighty" OEM.. Like I like to tell them.. look folks, its called "product improvement".. they LOVE terms like that.. {no ****} "IF" I had $5.00 or even .50 of every product sold that I improved & GAVE IT to the OEM's.. I'd be Warren Buffet rich.. I thought about & even contacted a patent attorney ONCE.. they wanted 10 THOUSDAND $ just to research the idea.. I was poor at the time so THAT was a no-go.. Patents are expensive.. lol I guess it takes money to make money.. so I've heard.. Keep at it HVY.. you'll get it.. good luck.. BTW.. if the oring idea pans out?? well, you know where I'm goin'.. lol
I think that I would cut an aluminum disc with a quad ring on the ID and OD with a snap ring on the axle to hold it in place.
hmm. thepumpguy is on to something, maybe the durability of aluminum, and the finesse of the internal O-ring, it would hold up... all it has to do is keep rocks and junk off of the internal china bearings. Ill look into it. Only thing I see being a pain in the ass, is cutting the internal O-ring groove lol, ill have to grind a custom tool to manually do it on the lathe.
If you have room and you should I would still run a standard shaft seal behind the aluminum disc. The bearing seals are not that tough.
I think your "pickin up what I'm putting down" Cut the Delron thick enough to cut a groove into the OD of the circle then tap it into place.. you should think about tapping some holes in it for removal purposes.. maybe not ALL THE WAY thru cuz that would defeat the purpose. Then again, I'm not there & don't have a friggin clue what I'm talkin about.. lol I don't know what thickness you have to work with.. is what I really meant to say.. lol
its like .9 thick, although plastic is easy enough to thread and remove yourself. To be honest.... you shouldnt have to replace these for the life of the engine.....
OK NOW.. if it shows up in KIT form on the web.. I'm gonna need a few 100 grand for my idea.. lol Kinda like the guy who invented the intermittent wipers.. he kept his patent & took 1 PENNY for every unit sold.. he was a godzillionare.. I'll just sell it, cuz we're internet buddies.. lol Seriously tho.. I do hope it works out for ya.. TPG
Hope it works too, I may have 600k in machines, but turning this inner O-ring gland will be a **'er, I made one for a suppressor the other day and it nearly took 5 hours and tweaking it to fit just right.
I've got a big question for anyone that had done hydraulics.... Can I get separate seals to seal up my pilot controls?
When you refill the rollers use a grease oil slurry mix. It will stay in far longer than oil and lube better. When I got my 287 most of the seals were leaking a bit. I changed out the oil for a grease oil mixture and haven't had any failures in 4 years.
Not unless Cat sells them. The should be Rexroth controls . ASV offers a logic block which is the lower portion of the control. RR may offer a seal kit if you can ID the control, or match up the old METRIC seals.
I went with a sealed grease bearing and am probably going with the OEM seals with some grease behind them for added measure. After its all together, ill poke around and see if I can find some seals. The boots were ripped and I noticed that the controls were leaking... Some people say it takes a rocket surgeon to fix them.
See attached info on the Rexroth pilot controls. If it is leaking it is probably between the logic block and the handle assembly. Anything above the logic block should be dry. The ASV version is abot $800.00 new for the complete assembly. ASV Rexroth joy stick info.pdf
The machine is cat with ASV tracks, does this matter? Or do they both have rexroth controls
do not know for sure
finally sold my tractor, ill be buying tracks and seals very soon.
"bumps mic" is this thing still on? Long story short, I planned on buying tracks with the money from my tractor... problem is; I had just bought a new (09) truck and it needed a flatbed/belts/oil change everything/alignment and that pretty much used up all the tractor money... so I changed my plans and decided to use the money from selling my other truck to fund this project... here we are 3 months later trying to sell the truck and I have a guy on the hook. Fingers crossed! In leu of that, I decided to move the machine from deep storage (randomly out in the field under a tree) to its repair area next to my container, prop it up on jack stands (logs) and get as much done as possible before the tracks come. I had to pull the short track (its 1 lug too short).... I have NO idea how in the hell they got this thing on there... I couldn't use my telehandler because it would pull it off the stands. I ended up using a chain come-along. Slowly, 1/8 of an inch at a time, it rolled off. Took 4.5 hours. Thankfully I did all this at night while it was only 83 outside Torched all the bogie carrier bolts off and trucked them to the main shop to disassemble them, press out the old races and press in the new bearings, press in the shaft and clip it in place awaiting seals. So far ive only power washed the carriers and painted them, disassembled the individual bogies and separated the outer wheels to access the seal and bearing race. There are 8 bolts per side, 2 sides, 12 bogies per machine.... thats 192 bolts, 80% of the nuts got stuck in the socket, had to hammer out probably half of the carriage bolts.... it was a nightmare. New hardware is going in everywhere. Now I only need to figure out if some of these outer wheel plates (if that's what they are called) can be re-used since they are ground out from the bearings being destroyed. Seeing as they protect the seal, they probably need to be in good shape, but I REALLY don't want to make new ones.
So, after months of saving, I finally bought the tracks and seals. Today I began knocking all the old bearings and seals from the original bogies and installing a new bearings and seals... unfortunately the bearings arent giving up without a fight. I search high and low for an extended length air hammer chisel with absolutely NO luck... So I picked up 2 packs of chisels from harbor freight, hacked the end off and extended it with some hardened shaft I had lying around in my shop, heated the working end and quenched it for added strength. Even then, my snap-on air hammer couldnt push them free. Ive currently resorted to turning my plasma cutter all the way down (10A) and cutting a notch in the seal and bearing to make a crushing point. This is working, but taking a lot of time. The other problem ive noticed is that 3 of the bogies had their seals ground all the way to the tube, and rounded the end hole so big; that the new seal literally just drops in place.... therefore I need to replace those tubes, which will cost $156 each. Im going to call some more salvage places around the US and try to buy up some used ones, and pickup some extra bogie wheels since some of mine look VERY worn. NOW, I installed a new battery in the skid, and plugged in the fuel pump (which I thought was dead, but a bench test revealed that it wasnt receiving power from the harness) only to find out that the pump is only turned on when the engine is cranking. No biggie, glad to see something works! When the engine is idling, all is well, 100% throttle runs good as well. Its that mid range 60-95% throttle that it puffs and stutters. The tank was cleaned, and new filter installed.... still does it. Im hoping maybe the injectors are toast? I might try some 2 stroke oil... I remember this working wonders for my old cummins.... brought her back to life.... or.. more like gave me some more borrowed time before the lift pump finally quits. Here is a video of it:
The tracks! Save your money and dont bother with US attachments. They will sell you some parts and disappear. No warranty, no answering phones or email. Thankfully The paper shows their distributor... They drop ship the rest of their parts from trackloaderparts.com
I figured out last weekend that 3 of my bogie hubs were completely trashed, the seals fell through and had nowhere to seal. So I took the opportunity to buy 3 new ones ($150 ea) and bought 6 new bogie wheels to replace the worst of the ones that I had. Wanting a change in scenery; I took a whack at figuring out my misfire issue... I cracked the injectors loose 1 at a time in attempt to locate which one is giving me the issue... they all did the same thing. Which led me to designing an injector puller that hooks to my slide hammer. 3 days of soaking with PB blaster, warming the engine up and using my 20LB hammer... I couldnt pull them loose. Ran out of F#*ks and put it back together in fear of snapping the threads off the injector and having to buy a new head.
Worked on the bogies this evening in hopes to finally finish them... only to find out that there is a step down from 35mm to 34mm where the bearing seats to where the seal face sits.... who the hell did this? why? so much more work! Chucked them in the lathe, took off about .044 to give the seal a fighting chance of not being destroyed... and at this point, this is a guessed number; seeing as the only axle I had has already been assembled and I cant measure the actual surface After 6 hours on the lathe, its all done. I fit one together real quick just to make sure its all going to fall together like it does in my head; and it does. Clean up shop, and continue this friday. A little note for those who are trying to pull the remains of their seals from the bogie hub: I turned my plasma cutter down to 10 amps and just gnawed at the seal and bearing race that remained; just to give them some wiggle room to collapse and come out. After the notch was made, I fashioned an extended chisel for my air hammer from a random scrap of really goddamn hard round bar I had from an old laser. Hacked the end off of a good chisel, bored the new bar to fit the chisel blank, drilled a hole in the side for a side lock bolt, heated the end up to yellow and hardened it. (those bearing races are harder than HSS) Pictured is a seal and bearing driver tool I threw together... I swear I cut that plate out with my eyes closed. Oh, I also found out that the plates I had made for the outer wheels; he got in a hurry and the plasma torch deflected and made conical holes that wont fit the fasteners. ITS ALWAYS SOMETHING!
Seal removal: the easy way.
progress is progress..slow and steady wins the race..looking good so far...is there a significant price difference between you fabricating and assembling all these parts compared to just buying new?
funny you should mention this, I calculated that I save about $30 making them myself... however had I know that I would be needing 3 new hubs, and 6 new wheels? I would have just purchased 2 new assemblies for $450 each. But thats kinda how this goes, I didnt completely tear it all down and check mating surfaces etc...
I dont wanna jinx it... but im really trying to get this thing running this weekend. Got all the wheel plates drilled and painted, bought like $150 in new hardware for the roller assemblies. I ended up not replacing all the carriage bolts since they were in fair shape, however since all the nuts were more round than they were hex, I opted for new nuts instead. Blasted them all together thursday night after work and had originally planned on friday being the day that I put all the carriages on the machine and start working on the tracks. HOWEVER im super thankful that firestone literally wasted my entire day spending 3 hours putting tires on my truck, taking them back off to install the new valve stems they forgot, then taking the tires off again and putting my old ones back on because the tires they installed were ABSOLUTE GARBAGE. (I almost killed myself taking a U-turn out of the parking lot) Ahem, back to work! (going to install what I can for as long as I can)
Thanks to a friend that came to help, we managed to get the tracks put back on saturday; slept in sunday, and loaded it up that evening to go try it out. Besides the appearance of the right track motor being a little... underpowered? it drives straight, and seems to be faster in reverse than forward? Not sure why that is. As for the misfire, I had the engine held at about 50% throttle all day and it sounded like the misfire mostly went away, but came back as usual when you revved it up to 90%. Something I noticed that isnt a huge deal, but is interesting none the less is; if you tilt the bucket vertical, blade facing down, lift the machine up off the ground; it will hold, but as soon as you pull back on the stick; it drops you like a brick... its like there is no gradual release, just a huge ball valve being flung open. Maybe this has something to do with all my pilots leaking? Im going to try and piece together a few videos this evening for yall.
Here is a super sh1tty video I shot today out at my property; fixing the road (the past 10 years of flooding washed the road into the neighboring property). Im looking to invest in a better phone with an awesome camera... since I never actually bring a camera to shoot proper video. Maybe ill bring my gopro for a timelapse next time. EDIT: I came across a few videos I shot of that case 350 I restored, ill try and piece it together tomorrow and post it. I remember someone asking about it awhile back.
Hopefully Ill get some seat time in this coming weekend. Been poking around trying to get an idea what these pilots are going to take to fix.... doesnt look like much. Came across some good insight from willie HeavyEquipmentForums Here is my machine and parts list, Im going to start with replacing group 5 and 8.
Looks like a good start on the pilot issue. Be sure to pull the fittings from the bottom of item 9 and replace the o rings. They are either 900 series US size or metric.
Took it for a spin today for a few hours "til I ran it out of fuel" and decided it was time to tackle the loose track... after power washing the track to be adjusted, I noticed someone torched the back large bogie axle out and welded the plate in place? therefore its like an inch too far forward. THERE'S ALL MY SLACK! Soooooooo, Im going to machine out some plates that raise the height of the front adjustable bogie up by 2" Here's what its looking like. wish me luck.
Is that a copy of the other side?
Wow, it's all I could ever hope for. All the slack is taken up. Gonna take it out this evening and see if it'll break. The bracket before welding After welding Before brackets with maxed out adjuster After brackets
Looks good
thank you! took it out for about 3 hours today before the sun set, got it up on some tough "probably shouldnt do this" kind of spots that would definitely run the risk of rolling a track off and it held on tight.
looking good, any more on the engine miss?...remember..have fun while working on it..a problem is only a challenge you need to solve...oh yeah and spend $$ on..LOL..
yes, only when its sitting still with no load, and there is a sort of sweet spot where it wont smoke and run like a top. this weekend I shot like 7500 pictures for a timelapse "my first try, so its nothing special" EDIT they flagged my music... Gonna have to fix it this evening
On a side note, my auxiliary hydraulics dont work. Some searching is telling me the thumbwheel is toast. Anyone have any experience replacing these?
False alarm, video is still flagged... Ugh
WOW, finally got it uploaded and not flagged. Praise the baby jesus.
Making progress, Check your oil I saw some blue smoke.
Looks like you got it working good. It is a lot faster than that other loader you had.
Quite the project you've got with this machine. I have the same machine and a very similar issue with running rough at 80%- WOT. have you had any luck diagnosing the issue on yours? I've installed a set of injectors. I made a slide hammer to pull mine. Wasn't bad after making the tool
I love the Stevie Ray Vaughn and Double Trouble with the Texas Flood tunes. I think the blue smoke is from air being sucked into your fuel system somewhere, causing the smoke and the miss.
That's a lot of blue smoke and no black smoke at all from working hard.
It works for now, Ive got a hydraulic leak at a fitting on the left tilt ram forward roll. I tightened it, nothing happened the cheap part of me says wait till it explodes... except last time that happened with my case, I got a golden shower no luck diagnosing it, I made a 20lb slide hammer and had no luck. I talked to a guy at cat that only works on the 3044c engines, he said its common to have to buy a whole new head for new injectors lol. Ill look into this. I chose that track because that road was ruined from the flooding irony scary aint it lol. Ive chosen for the time being to look the other way. Ill have a peek into the problem when I finish the road here soon. For now, here is video from this weeks adventure "only half days since I have to work"
Replacing the head for injectors ??! Smh. Have you put a wrench on them and twisted them free? I took the air filter out and the front engine lift point off and used a medium size crescent wrench to break mine free and be able twist them then used the slide hammer to pull em.. they didn't break free easily
I did, using a 21lb slide hammer, penetrating oil, vibrating them with a hammer drill and twisting with a wrench... I'd like to think I exhausted all my efforts lol.
Try spinning it over with the starter with fuel off to see if you can notice any compression loss. Miss may not be injector at all.
I did, all the compression strokes sound the same, and its spiratic,
today was garbage, it rained, even with tracks, I didnt have much traction. Made for some halfway decent spinning track footage. Besides the junk asv seals, and chipped rubber wheels; this design really isnt that bad. The wide bogies keep the track from wanting to roll off during stupid maneuvers. I got my buddies kubota SVL90-2 to pop and snap a few times trying to derail while shredding the road originally. The 277b doesnt even thing twice.
check your rollers on the roller sprocket cage. 50% wear = soon to replace. When new there is no to very little play. The design is a bolt with a inner and outer roller tube.
Good Lord I haven't posted anything since 2017?! I just turned 30. Looking at this makes me feel hella old. We'll, I ran out if pump advance and finally had to pull the pump to be rebuilt. Apparently the cam plate that actuates the main plunger is worn and retarded the timing so bad, it wouldn't run. Nearly left me stranded on a job. (Oh, I quit my old job and bought a dump truck) Did a head and rotor, and a new cam plate, all new seals etc. For $850. A new pump from the kitty cat dealer was $1700. Which isn't bad imo. Pulling the pump only took about... 1.5hrs? Not bad. Oh, my hour meter stopped counting? My guess is this thing started going bad around 2500hr Pics of the worn cam plate.
Update: Got the pump in and hooked up with as few parts as possible, bled the injectors, etc, got it running but the pump hunts at high rpm almost like an old riding mower with an improperly adjusted Governor. I also had to advance the pump almost all the way to the limit to clear up the white smoke. Any chance the rollers inside the pump are shot and the cheap ass that rebuilt it messed up?
I was about 1 more problem from throwing this pump through the guys window when I decided to take a video of this issue and post it ..... Only to find out it doesn't have an issue? Runs, idles, high rpm doesn't have an issue anymore.... However I can still hear it sounds like a weak cylinder or improperly adjusted delivery valve....
There is no adjustment to a delivery valve.. U got that pump w/ a new H&R & cam plate for 850.00!!!! WOW..THAT IS a 1200.00 job... Did the pump have "lock timing"?? are u sure u had the engine timed correctly?? Did u get the injectors done at the same time?? Where do u suppose all that metal went to??
No lock I believe, shaft was keyed and the gears have timing marks made for idiots like me . The injectors are stuck in the head and will never come out. It'll need a new head when that happens. Of course I think the metal is stuck somewhere, depending on how thin, probably in the injectors. But it never had this weak cylinder sound before the rebuild.
After giving this some more thought... This cam plate has been wearing out for a long time, I'd bet that the metal particles were small enough to fit through the injector holes. The middle man who rebuilt my pump recommended oven cleaner to free the injectors. Any thoughts on that? My issue is the 4thou tolerance on the bore that holds the injector.
how is oven cleaner going to work? it doesnt "creep" does it?
If your talking about > getting them unstuck from the head.?? anything is worth a try.. but u might wanna consider the 50/50 mix of ATF & Acetone in a spray bottle.. THAT creeps.. Do u have a "slide hammer" injector remover.?? That's usually the ONLY way your gonna getm out..
I have a 20lb slide hammer and adapter I made for these injectors. I was 99.9% sure I was going to break the top off the injector when I tried last
Dam.. U certainly don't wanna break'm.. If u really wanna getm out use the 50/50 mix & let it sit a day..keep squirt'n it & then try it again.. I probably wouldn't run the machine w/ the acetone in the mix.. u never know what its gonna do if it hits a hot manifold.. Good luck.
Thanks! I've used that mix on seized engines with good luck.
Any idea why it would be harder to start in the warm weather? Before it would crank 1 revolution and fire up, now it takes 8-10 spins. I've got serious buyers remorse right now.
i have a 96 perkins 1004 engine and got 3 injectors out, but the last one is stuck. i'm able to unthread the upper portion, but that leaves the lower half in the head. got a hammer puller coming tomorrow. hopefully she comes out.
Don't unscrew it.. its got springs & shims that'll fall.. & the most important part that needs replacing, the tip, will stay down in the stuck portion.. Before using that new hammer puller, snug the body back together.. the last thing u wanna do is snap it in half & hafta pull the head.. EVERY PHASER Injector {1004} I've seen, is rusted on the outside.. & your gonna hafta use penetrating oil. Which leads me to my next statement.. U gotta clean that bore before the new ones come in..or rebuilds back.. Good luck.
yes, i snugged the injector back up. soaked with lots of penetrating oil, and waiting for the slide hammer to arrive.
Well, it's been a minute. The rebuilt pump finally locked up, the head and rotor became all 1 assembly lol. Thanks to some super nasty fuel I used. I figured the filter would catch everything, turns out the chemical makeup was sooooooooo bad, it fused the rotor. No worries, ordered a new pump from cat. They sent one that had 5 fuel lines and 2 coolant lines lol. Clearly not what I needed. Turns out that's the newer style pump. Returned and got the right one. Installed it and I've never heard it run sooooooooo good. Fast forward 2 days, its running good until it starts starving for fuel? I can hear the lift pump spinning super fast, gargling, then it runs ok for a minute then falls on its face. Limp it back to the trailer and back to the shop. Pull the feed hose to the pump and hookup to a clear hose spilling into a bucket.... It's a bunch of air. Pulled the fuel pickup pickup lines and the suction side is absolutely rusted to death. Full of pinholes. Check online for the replacement part, only to find out it's $137, needless to say I built my own for that price lol. Used some acid flux, silver solder and copper refrigerator line.
Copper is NOT recommended for fuel lines.
Why's that? Vibration will cause it to crack?
Vibration cracks and the copper can have reactions with the fuel. There's a reason it wasn't copper from the factory. There's more info on the net.
Hey Nige, need member here anyway you could tell me if this one was shipped with 2 speed? Hey Nige, new member. Anyway you could tell me if this one was shipped with factory 2 speed?
It's difficult to track down from the Serial Number with 100% certainty. You can see on the machine if you look at the LH joystick handle. A 2-speed machine should have four pushbuttons on top and a trigger on the front side. The trigger is what controls the rabbit/turtle mode. if it doesn't have that trigger it's single-speed.