It is electronic and you have to have your seat belt clicked for it to work. I push it, but the light doesn't go out. The light has to be off for any of the controls to work. Am I missing a step somewhere? Please help. I need to get this thing out of my barn so I can remove the bucket. With bucket, loaded wheels and counterweights, it is too heavy for my 3 1/2 ton floor jack! Any help would be greatly appreciated. Edit to post: I need to put new tires on it and just need one side up at a time up. This thing must be awful heavy!
L190 is 7700lbs. Plus 200lbs or so for your tires. A good jack should be able to lift it. I lift our 262C2 with a 3.5 ton jack all the time. 262C2 is 8000lbs and the Tweels weigh 220lbs. Can you verify the seat switch and seat belt switch are both working? the seat belt switches are a PITA on those things sometimes. Then again now that I think of it if those arent working on the LS series they wont start, not sure if the L series is the same. Does it have a service/run switch like the LS series possibly? If so that needs to be in run for the loader controls to work and if you switch it to run and the skid steer does not want to start then the seat and or seatbelt switch are your issue.
Thanks, yes, it has a ACC (thats key all the way over to the left) And then Run (that's at 12:00) and START is all the way over to the right. It starts just fine, but when I go to push the button to turn the brake off, it just keeps blinking and the light stays on. None of the controls (bucket, drive, ect..) will work with the park light on. It hasn't been ran since i first got it. I didn't have any problems getting it to turn off when I first got it on delivery. Now the dang light won't go off. About jacking it up, remember it has those loaded tires on it. Are you saying my 3 1/2 ton floor jack should be able to lift it with rear counterweights, loaded tires and the bucket still on it? Cause it seemed like the jack was struggling just to get the one side up off the ground. There's no suspension on these machines, I assume? So I can't just jack up one end and do one wheel at a time? I have the jack between the wheels under edge of machine or I guess on the chain case? Thanks for trying to help me out here. I know probably a bunch of stupid questions here, but I'm pretty stupid on these machines, still. Ooops, sorry I got the key switch wrong. From left to right it is, ACC, STOP (that's where you can take your key out), RUN and then START.
I figured it out. The seat belt must have a short in it. I noticed the seat belt light wasn't going out. So I un-clicked it and clicked it back in and the seat belt light went out. Then I was able to push the parking brake button on the pad to release the parking brake. I have a automatic quick tac button to release my bucket, but it doesn't work. The harness to it broke and I have another one on order. I guess I will try to lift everything once more and see if I can't get things off the ground. Thanks for the help!
I was referring to a service switch that the older machines had. Not the key switch. On the LS machines it was inside the fuse panel inside the cab. Might not have one on the L100 series. I don't know specifically what your foam filled tires weigh so that could be an issue but the Tweels on our 262 are much heavier than pnuematic tires also, counterweights add enough to get it around the weight of a 262. Bucket's aren't too heavy really. You only need to pivot the machine to do tires not all four at once. If you jack up on the side with the bucket on you are fighting the bucket acting as leverage. Jack up the rear of the machine and swap those tires then jack the front of the machine or use the bucket to lift it. If you use the bucket put some blocks under it for safety and/or just stay out from under it. Had a close friends brother killed that way. The seatbelts are finnicky, if it gets worse then fix it. A double click is minor on an NH. I mentioned it twice in the other thread you had and I will mention it again in this one. Return the wiring harness and move the hydraulic valvebody for the quick attach inside the right fender. Its just going to have more and more issues being mounted out front in all of the crap like it is. Inside the fender its protected. Wires are fragile, hoses are tough. Your NH dealer should be able to look the info up on ASSIST on how to do this. I remember most of it but forget exactly which lines you tie into under the cab for it to work properly. It takes some time and a few hundred bucks but is worth it.
durallymax, sorry it took so long to get back with you. I know you have mention the hydraulic valve body on several occasions and I am listening, but I'm not quite sure just yet what you are talking about. I've only had the machine for less than a week now and am still leaning what all the parts are. I have a LONG ways to go. My manual will help familiarize me with a lot of things and then maybe I'll understand what you are talking about. I will "get it", but it will take some time. I do appreciate you telling me about it, though, cause it will save me future headaches, I am sure. I did get the tires on yesterday. Man that had to have been one of the hardest things (physically) I have ever done. I'm not a stranger to heavy equipment. I worked in the industrial radiator business for over 20 years and have wrestled around with radiators off these big machines that you guys operate. But I'm nearing 50 and I ain't what I used to be, LOL. Those loaded tires were HEAVY. I have no doubt that's why my jack struggled with getting it up. I should have done it the way you mentioned, but I was already out there working on it by the time you had replied. When I started on the other side, the jack struggled even more because it had the taller tires on the other side and still had the loaded tires on the side I was working on. A couple of times the jack just gave up and loss pressure. Just getting the loaded tires off was a bear. I had to use car ramps for changing oil and slide the ramps up against the tire for support while I lifted slightly to remove it. I was trying not to damage the threads, too, and that seemed my only option. But I finally managed to get it all done and they look great! I measured the clearance and the gave me 11 inches clearance! Wow, I wasn't expecting that. Those Deestone's are really tall. Anyway thanks for all the help again, and I'll let you know how I'm progressing in the knowledge of my machine, lol.
Don't feel bad, I worked in tires for a few years doing Ag, Auto and Truck. It's far more embarrassing trying to moved fluid filled lawn mower tires than a foamed skid steer tire. Mower tires look tiny but they will kick your ass. The block is the thing mounted to the bar on your attachment plate. It has two hoses coming out of it. You need to run two hoses all the way down the boom and then into the right hand side fender. You will mount that block to the side of the cab underneath everything and shorten your wires to it. There is a hose in there you will relocate the T from the bucket tilt cylinder to. i just can't remember which one it is. That will feed the block fluid and the solenoids will control which way the fluid goes.. The NH quick attach works by taking the system over relief to supply pressure to the quick attach valve body. With yours being out there though it probably still only works with the bucket rolled all the way back.
Ok, I think I'm beginning to understand what you're saying now. I still need to look at it and maybe it will make more sense. When it warms back up, I plan on doing just that. When I ordered the harness (which I haven't picked up yet), the parts guy said that it controlled the self leveling function of the bucket. Does that same harness also control the quick attach? Because as of right now, my quick attach isn't working. I push the unlock button yesterday and nothing happened. He never mentioned the harness controlling the quick attach.
Don't know about the self level. You do know in order for the NH quick attach to work you have to roll the bucket all the way back and hold it for it to send pressure to the quick attach right?
No, I didn't know that. See, this is where my manual would come in handy. So I have to tilt the bucket all the way back and push and hold the unlock button for it to work?
Yep! Don't feel bad. I thought the QA was messed up when I bought my Case TR320 too. I keep the manual behind the seat just in case there's something I forgot. When you want to reattach just roll the bucket back again to set the pins.
Thanks, JNB. Unfortunately mine didn't come with a manual, so I had to order one. Still waiting for that to come in. So with the bucket rolled back and the QA unlocked, do I just raise the loader arms and the QA separates from the bucket? Eventually I'll be getting a root grapple and that will be on there 98% of the time.
Once the QA unlocks, just roll it forward to sit the rest of the bucket on the ground and slip it out while backing up the machine. Looks like you're enjoying some icy stuff today. My wife and I drove back in it from Cowboys Stadium last night after the big rodeo. Lots of fun!!
Ok, thanks. Yeah, we got about 1-2 inches of ice here in the Piney Woods. Good thing I didn't have to go anywhere today. Glad you made it back home safe!
Hey Grit, PM sent Tim
His machine is different though. Yours will operate anytime you take the machine over relief (boom, auxillary, bucket) his only operates with the bucket. Or to the best of my knowledge does. I didn't spend much time with the L100's. The older ones only ran off the bucket. I hated how the newer ones like your TR320 would start automatically locking the pins without hitting the switch. He should still have to hit the switch to lock his pins. Once unlocked just lower the boom and roll the plate forward to push the bucket away from the plate.
Ok, so it's just the opposite of what I thought. Thanks
Yeah, it's pretty irritating. I've only had my machine for a little while, so I'm still getting used to this "feature."
When we had our L220, our guys lost a lot of buckets with it. I guess it wasn't a bad thing because they are all still in the habit of physically watching the pins now even after switching brands.