I have an IH 100E and was wondering if anyone has replaced a starter on one? I put 2 new batteries in it and a new solenoid and all it will do is click. The starter won't turn over. Should I drop the pan to take the starter out? Also is there anything I should be aware of or know before undertaking this project? Thanks ahead of time for any help!
I'd give the starter a few taps before you go pulling it out, unless you like everything to be new and tip top shape? Sometimes a starter will get a dead spot, or maybe something hangs up or whatever. A good whack with a broom handle while trying to crank will sometimes get it going, until next time it stops there... Grab hold of the fan and belt and see if the crankshaft turns over a bit, it will get hard to turn as a cylinder reaches the compression stroke, but it should turn a bit at a time easily. What's the history of the starting problem?
It lagged when starting for a couple of days then it just stopped turning over. It doesn't really matter to me if it's new and shiny as long as it runs and does what I need it too. To be honest I would rather not replace the starter just yet because it's not really a cheap fix. I'll try hitting it harder while pressing the starter and also turning the fan. Hopefully it will get past the hang up.
That doesn't sound so promising. You might still be able to access the brushes without removing the starter, and if you take the body off of the starter you're taking it out anyway so not much to lose. Some starters come apart pretty easily, not sure what your's is. Sorry, I can't help at all on how to take it out.
Starters fail because of inadequate supply voltage. Not every failure is caused by it, but sometimes. An old machine, probably been out side much of its life will have oxidation at each point where two conductors meet. The negative battery clamp can oxidize where it meets the battery. It can also oxidize where it meets the cable. Following this logic, each end of each short section of cable gets two points where resistance comes from oxidation. A master switch, Solenoid, etc. can each be numerous sources of resistance. The same is true of the "ground path" Most machines use the iron of the tractor as one of the paths for electricity. The starter bolts to the bell housing, paint or rust can interfere with voltage delivery. One casting bolts to another, all the way back to where a "Ground" cable bolts to iron, and the other end connects to the battery. All of these connections must be perfect if good voltage is to reach the starter. If the starter solenoid is engaging, power is flowing to the starter, voltage is good, then you have starter problems. Be aware that a new starter might fail soon if voltage isn't good under load at the starter. Willie
I'm sure voltage hasn't been good in the past. The battery cables were hacked up and it was running off one refurb 12v instead of two. I reworked the cables and put in two new batteries and a new solenoid. I also cleaned as many connections as I could. Pretty sure at this point it's the starter but want to try as much as I can before replacing it. Problem is its in the middle of our field with the bucket down so I've been working around that. Luckily it hasn't rained...yet.
The starter is a Delco Remy 35-MT on it now.
Have you tried to jump the solenoid AT THE STARTER ?? I know this is dangerous but it can be done safely.. A "push button" remote starter only costs 7-10.00 at the parts store or wally world.. That would by-pass the key switch and relays and give you an idea about the condition of the starter.. Straight from the battery to the starter..
I have not tried that yet because of the safety factor. How could I go about doing it?
Two ways to diagnose this, both involve hooking up wires to the solenoid terminal. I hook one test lead (a length of wire with an alligator clip on one end, or even just a clip or clothespin to hold the wire to the terminal) to the little solenoid terminal and the other end into the cab, then stick that end into your multimeter and clip the other lead to ground. Try the key and see if you get 12V, if you do, then move your test lead to the starter side of the solenoid (the strap that goes to the big terminal on the starter body) and try the key again, if you have 12V then the starter is the problem. You might still get the body of the starter off if you have better access to the back of the starter than to the main starter bolts. The other method is hooking one wire to the solenoid terminal, and another to the positive battery cable and using a remote start switch to try that from the seat. The dangerous way is to accidentally leave it in gear, take a screwdriver and connect the battery terminal to the small solenoid terminal, if that starts it, the solenoid is fine. If that doesn't start it, then you connect the battery terminal to the other big terminal, if that starts it then the solenoid is bad and the starter is good. Nothing, and the starter is bad. That method probably kills somebody every day worldwide...
There are two lugs on most solenoids with smaller wires and screwed down with smaller fasteners beneath the larger (3/4" nuts/1/2" studs) lugs for battery and feed to the starter motor from the main solenoid. One smaller wire will lead to the starter ground lug the other is from the start button/solenoid. Touch that one with a screwdriver to the main hot post(battery) to bypass upper controls. Before you do this, take a smaller(16oz) hammer and tap fairly heavily at the solenoid. If you hear a clunk the contact plate in the solenoid may be bad(burnt arc spots).