Hi, I just bought a 1986 Case 1085B Cruz-Air wheeled excavator to use on my campground. Everything works, but it had been sitting for awhile, and I am having problems moving the shift levers that control the forward/reverse, as well as what gear (1,2,3). They should move independently but will only move together. I have the repair manual and I think I have traced the problem to the shift tubes and bearings between the bell cranks, and have attached a picture of the assembly in question. There is one set of these on the center swivel above the turntable, and one below. Each has a set of two bearings that look like they should travel up and down the shift tube. Can anyone confirm if what I am thinking is true, and if so, should both of these bearings move or just one (and if so, which one). If they are supposed to move, any recommendations for freeing them? I think the shift tube is hollow so just hammering on them is probably not a good idea... Thanks!
Only one should move unless you are moving both at one time. It has a outer tube that is fixed in the center of the swivel, a second tube that slides inside it, and the third that sides inside the second with a port that controls engine speed. The 1085B had a Clark trans and a six speed power shift. Under that boot below it is your elect swivel that allows your power to get to the lower unit. I would climb up under it with the wheels blocked and unhook the cables to the trans control valve and try it. If the leavers move good in the cab check the lower shift cables for sticking and binding. If not unhook the two at the top and retry. The shifter tube has to move freely but those cables can get seized up also. Those shifter tubes can be a pain, so take your time and be careful.
Hi, Sorry for the delay, and thanks for the info! we are checking the cables this week... I am still not quite clear however, should both of the bearings on that tube move on the tube, depending on which cable is moved, or is one of them always fixed. If so which one is the one that moves?
I just replaced my shifting tube this spring, I spent $1,000 at the Case dealership. They had to so some searching to find it as well. The inner most tube is hollow but that tube carries brake fluid that runs the throttle, so don't mess that up. If you don't want to spend the money, pull the access panel to the tranny and you can unhook the bell crank to 1-2-3 and shift that by hand and use F-N-R from the cab.
There are lots of snap rings involved in the swapping of this tube, pay attention to the sequence of the snap rings/swivels/bearings if you change the tube.
They move by themselves as needed, shifting from F/R or threw the 1/2/3 range. I have had to do a bush fix before but I would fix it so you can shift from the cab as built. You will need to change gears often and having to climb out and bump the spool or build a lever is a accident waiting to happen. Have you had a chance to unhook the top and bottom linkages and move each bearing/tube up and down and see how bad they are binding against each other while soaking them with your wd40/pbblaster. I have taken them out and spun them with a cordless drill two loosen them up, a good machine shop can also disassemble it and buff it if its not bent or swelled. The seals start leaking on the shafts and allow dirt and water between the sections. The inner tube expands with the force of the throttle brake fluid inside the tube over time. Just make sure you have the measurements on length before taking it apart for each tube so you know the correct length.
OK we have checked all the shift cables and they all work fine. We then disconnected the linkages and see that when we move either bell crank on the top, all 4 bell cranks (the 2 on top and the 2 underneath) still move together. Bell cranks are also well greased so problem does not look like it is there. It also looks like the whole shift tube moves up and down when we move the bell cranks as well, is this normal? We have also checked all the the bearings on the shift tubes and they spin freely, but they will not travel up or down on the shift tube. So next step it looks like we need to the bearings them up a bit and see if we can get them to slide up and down the shift tube?
There are 3 tubes, the outer, which I believe runs the F-N-R, the middle which controls 1-2-3 and the inner, which controls the throttle. The problem you have is one of the inside tubes is bound causing the 1-2-3 tube to not slide freely. The outer tube will slide freely allowing you to shift F-N-R. Get a parts book and it will show you the break-down schematic of the whole tube. Best thing I can tell you is to remove the entire tube and see if you can free it up on a bench. I couldn't get mine freed up so I ponied up and bought a new one.
Hi. Even though this is an old threat it's very similar to my situation. I just bought an 1985 1085B that had been sitting for a couple of years.First I had someone started it and the engine is running fine, after a few hoses changed (leaks) but I have a couple issues that need attention. Engine was started but the ignition switch was never used it was bypassed, no electricity is coming to the cab.I also changed the shifting cables as suggested at the top of this threat but my mechanic say it won't move when trying to deactivate the parking brake the knob just pop back on it's on I was told the compressor is putting the pressure to 120 psi so it's not the compressor. Also there were a couple of relays that were replaced 0332401 I'm not sure what they are for bu they were corroded.I order a repair manual for the machine but if I get any ideas in this forums they would be much appreciated.
Check your park brake button it could be bad and also check your park brake actuator. And start a new thread don't piggy back.
Thank you Coy I;m going to have those two thing check tomorrow.
My Drott 40 won't move f or r. The selenoid transmission Shifter is not getting power. Its been sitting for awhile. Any idea what is going on with? I just painted the machine and prior to that is was running fine. Could that be related somehow? Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Check your electrical swivel for paint overspray or corrosion.