hey guys im new to the forum im needing some help in a bad way..my dozer starts to hesitate after about 45 min of clearing.ive had case man come down to work on it he put a new charge pump on. didnt fix it tho.im frustrated i need it fixed in bad way, what do u guys think '' thanks
Been there Buck Slayer. Have you checked for fuel flow between the tank and filters? Sometimes tanks develop some blockage at the line and will cause what you describe. Don't ask how I know....
ill check tommorow,it doesnt slip at all while in gear it will spin the tracks off on a big whiteoak, but sometimes i can count to 5 in my head before it will go into foward seems like forever when your working.its like a valve is getting bypassed or hung open.
I guess I didn't read your question to be hydraulic. Obviously I was thinking fuel. If it's full of hydraulic oil, check the hydraulic filter behind the seat. Maybe just change it for general principle and cut the old one open.
Welcome to HEF buck slayer! We need alot more info in order to help. Firstly, we are talking about a straight 1150? (with no model letters) Correct? Oil is at correct level with engine stopped? Hesitation? - does it drive normally from start up? will it steer using HI/LOW levers? - does this occur only on a neutral to forward shift? both tracks not driving? - does it occur in neutral to reverse? both tracks? - does putting LH & RH in hi or low make any difference? - does it occur on every shift to FWD? or once it has engaged, does it change ok? - once driving, if you move from FWD to Neutral LH & RH, then back to FWD LH & RH, does it hesitate again? - once driving, can you change from HI to LOW LH & RH, without any loss of drive? - while you have the machine against the tree, & once the transmission engages, does the driveshaft turn at all while the tracks are still stalled?(not moving) Pressure - does your transmission pressure gauge still work? - does the transmission pressure not show anything during the loss of drive? - do you have any hydraulic test gauges? (up to 500psi) Temperature - does the transmission or convertor begin to run hot before it dies? Does the machine have rippers? Can you raise the tracks off the ground, so we can see if there is dragging clutch packs? ie - there should be no movement in the tracks while in neutral & this can only be truely checked by raising the tracks off the ground. The more answers you give, will help us in understanding your problem (with your machine)
it is a 1150 h there is a hesitation in forward and reverse seems to be worse in forward.the only hesitation is from neutral to forward or neutral to reverse.no hesitation from high to low speeds.to when pushing a tree or a load of dirt tracks spin just like they should.machine never dies while pushing .gauges stay where they should.first 30 min of work it shifts with little to no hesitation. the longer you run it the more it hesitates.no ripper on machine.dont have transmission pressure gauge.machine perfect to run besides the hesitation.oil levels are where they should be.hope this helps thanks alrman !
OK thats put more light on the subject. The H models run a teflon oil control ring on the transmission shafts. Also the pressure from the valve to the clutch packs goes to the transmission via a pressure hose which then tee's into a steel pipe which feeds both LH & RH at the same time. I have had to replace these seals on a few H models as they seem to wear thin & lose pressure. I would look at these seals before checking anything else. The end caps for FWD/REV are located at the rear of the machine. You will need to check BOTH sides LH & RH. These seals may sometimes look OK, But they may have worn thin in the shaft groove, which is not evident till they are removed. They are a CNH only part & not expensive to purchase. ** TIP - get a couple of spares as they are a bit tricky to install as they need to be stretched (alot!) to be fitted. They will slowly return to shape but they will need some assistance by using a hose clamp used as a ring compressor to get them back in shape a little quicker. Item 23 is a shim, there maybe a few of these in place, be careful while removing the covers. these will need to be kept in their original positions LH & RH. Just clean then & reseal with loctite 515 when refitting. Like I said this needs to be done before anything else, if you do this & are positive you have fitted the end caps without damaging the seals, & the problem is persisting, let me know, there are other possibilities......
Sit them in WARM water prior to starting the stretch process, then wrap some steel shim stock or thin sheet aluminum around the seal and apply a decent hose clamp for a bit to force it back to size once in place. DO NOT OVERSTRETCH, get them to just slide up the shaft to the groove. Is a trick I learned in hydraulics repairs years ago.
boy thanks a bunch guys! so glad to have found this forum ,il will let you know how it goes