My 16 year old pump motor has a ground lug that is rusted to the point of it being half its original state. The wire has melted off all its insulation, and last night it made its last up cycle. Power up Gravity down. I am thinking I am replacing the whole set-up as a kit, but hate to throw away the old tank and pump- they work, such as it is. But finding an electric motor repair guy who could go through it and replace the stud is unlikely- at any cost. These trades people just don't exist any longer. It is certainly beyond my skill to take it apart and fix it, (12v automotive electric is my Kryptonite) but I am interested in hearing if I could maybe discard the electric motor and maybe couple the pump/tank to a gas engine or a tractor PTO and make use of the pump and tank. The electric motor can't be more than 1-2 hp I would think, so a 5hp Predator engine ought to turn it, and my small Ag tractor has 3 pto speeds. Any thoughts on re-purposing the pump/tank? Thanks.
How about some pictures? Joe H
It would have to wait, back at home office and trailer is at my daughters house- most of the way down to my ranch. I know most threads are useless without pictures, but I was fighting darkness and a hangry wife last evening.
My question would be: Would it be possible to just rethread that post to a smaller size and then use a smaller wire end to connect it? Another idea/question is this "ground Lug insulated from the body of the motor? If not then could you just simply hook ground wire to a different point, like the mounting bracket? Some pictures will help a lot in understanding what can be done. Also if there are any names or numbers on this unit it would also be good to post them.
Well KHansen- this picture below by Cutting Edge shows that stud. Are you saying the stud can be unscrewed from the outside and a new stud just threaded in without taking the end cap off? As far as labels or data plate on the existing unit? I doubt it. But the unit is similar to the picture.
The large unit, motor, pump, controls, and tank are $630.00. The smaller motor and pump is $300.00. That's Canadian, so it would be cheaper for you. That's at Princess Auto, probably like Harbour freight down there. Just saying you can get that stuff pretty cheap if you want. The motor is just a starter motor. We run them on our one ton dump trucks.
Any good starter rebuilder should be able to pull the motor and repair the whole insides of the end cap. Post protrusion reminds me of the old Clark "Carloader" 6 volt starters. As an aside. cast around for a junked Clark P40/P60 electric pallet jack. They wear and corrode and are welded and repaired on and on.; BUT, the 12 volt pump, motor, and tank seldom give trouble, hence worth buying for it. Hundreds of log splitters have been made in the South from these units. A possible alternative.
The 12v pump motor and tank as a complete units are easily available on amazon and ebay also, similar to what cutting edge posted.
Nothing magical about it, just disassemble, remove, replace. One or another starter motor stud and insulators probably substitute just fine.
Agree seems like simple job to fix if one had a shop that worked on starters or maybe even golf carts, bet there are a few of them in Floridah! I really hate to think someone would spend $300 for a new motor when it could be fixed for the price of a six pack of even cheap beer! My question would be why did this terminal get so bad it would need replacing? I mean I have a 1947 Farmall that for all I know has the starter it left the factory with three years before I was born. The only reason that terminal could be bad enough to need replacing would be if it was run loose and arced away a bit every time pump was used!
It's about cycle times most likely, and the size of the cable and connections, the charge level of the battery. Every connection has resistance, and voltage drop, the lower the battery voltage, the higher the current draw to move the same load, and the longer the motor runs to perform a dump cycle, the hotter that little bugger gets. As age, heat, and corrosion add resistance, the negative cycle speeds up until eventually you get arcing and pretty quick meltdown. I'm betting your Farmall usually starts after a few turns and a bit of choke, I've seen dump trailers that took around a full minute to get completely up.
OK GREAT MANY THANKS to all of you replying, you've given me hope- except that part about finding a good starter rebuilder. Mine retired last year. The other guy in town has a bad reputation. My old guy recommended a business in the next town, so it will get sent to him. I live on the beach and this trailer has spent much of its life here, but now my ranch is more secure and I am leaving more of my equipment down there now. Ks Hansen probably hit it on the head, the stud may have been loose, and I let it arc its way along into corrosion and section loss. I WILL let you all know what happens. Thank you
OK this is similar enough to mine. The stud on the far top right, and the short length of cable that's burnt, taking it to a starter guy, and ensuring my battery is fully charged before it goes back together. (probably freshen up a couple of hoses too, with the money I save, hydro oil change. though I think its got ATF in it. )
Yes on the Farmall starting pretty fast, especially when putting 12 volts to the 6 volt starter! And the fact that the dump trailer is running for long time is even more reason to keep close eye on connections being tight and clean. I think I would be using some good dielectric grease on all the electrical connections to try and keep the corrosion at bay.