I have a 130G grader. Ex military machine. Not sure how many hours but not too many. Good machine. Problem is the hydraulic and air lines are getting mighty brittle. About half of the hoses are not in a real convenient area for repairing. One usually bursts in a very inopportune time. I was wondering if anyone had replaced all of the hoses at one time? It looks like a pretty major problem for the hoses that follow the frame and go back under the engine. How major of a job would this be?
Oh it will be, but replacing bunches of hoses that are all secured by the same clamps at the same time can actually be easier than the work involved replacing one hose. Do you have a Parts Manual for it.? If not you are probably going to need one.
I do have a parts manual for machine. The main thing I worry about is how secured are the hoses that go back under and along the side of the engine. I have never seen a grader in the G series with the engine out. How hard is it to get to the clamps that secure those hoses? Sounds like it would be best to do groups of hoses while machine not in use.
I agree. Best thing would be to find all the hoses passing through a certain area and replace every one in one hit. You could do it in phases based on different areas of the machine. It's not a case where everything has to be done at one time.
Nige, I have a question on the same grader. Ser# 74V2065 On the drawbar group it looks like #8G4880 I am removing two 10mm shims to tighten up the circle. I purchased a new 6G2524 strip and a new 6G4525 strip and compared them with the old strips. There was very little wear on the 6G4524 strips. The 6G4525 strips has about .020 wear on them. I am taking out two .010 shims on each 6G4526 shoe. My question is when I go back together, how close do I need to get the shims on the shoe to the inside if of the circle assembly? There are 12 4B3604 set screws, 3 on each shoe for making this adjustment.
Nige I found my 130G Service Manuel. In section on installing the Circle Drawbar it sets out how to install the shoes and adjust them Says to tighten the shoes until they are against the inside of the circle then loosen the setscrews until the circle is just free to turn. It refers to the side and rear shoes. Not sure about the front shoes.
I’m out out the moment. Let me have a look at the service manual and get back to you. Generally speaking a circle adjustment starts with first setting the pinion clearance (beware of excessively worn teeth in that area of the circle or it can throw up weird settings). Once you have the pinion correctly adjusted then move to the other four shoes. Take a look at your manual to see if there is a procedure for setting the pinion clearance.
See the attachment. I would start with the circle pinion setting then adjust the shoes, first for height and then for radial clearance.
Thanks Nige. Gonna make a run at it today.
You may have to make a couple of runs at the adjustments of the pinion and then the rear shoes. Don’t necessarily try to get them spot on the first time, just close. Then go back and go through them all again. Often the biggest challenge on a circle that has been messed with is to actually get it rotating in circular fashion if you get my drift.
Seems to be working smoothly. Will run it a little and check again. This is a 1985 military model we purchased several years ago. As far as I can tell it has run true. Not sure how many hours it has on it, but not many. It appears this is the first time it has been adjusted. As near as we could tell the brass inserts had about .020 wear. I think it is going to work fine. Will keep you posted. Thanks for your advice, always used and appreciated. Joe
If you want to lube the sliding surfaces of the circle, and the pinion, try a bit of dry film aerosol. Don’t use grease on it under any circumstances. It will turn into something resembling valve grinding paste in a heartbeat.
As far as I can tell grease has never been used on the circle. There is no accumulation of grease residue. I started using the dry film aerosol when I first purchased the grader several years ago. I was purchasing it through Cat parts department. Price has now gone to $50.00 per aerosol can. I think is was a 12 oz can. Just ordered a different brand from Amazon. Gonna see how it looks and works. Do you have a brand you would recommend?
We used to use the Cat product more out of convenience than anything else, but AFAIK all the different offerings are all much of a muchness. Loctite used to manufacture the 242-6990 Cat aerosol, it is their Part Number LB8017.
Cat sells the Loctite LB8017 now under the Loctite label. $50 for aerosol can of it. My Cat dealer never ceases to amaze me. I went to the parts department today to inquire about Cat Classic parts. Parts lady had no clue. Called someone else with dealer and they had no clue. Several years ago I purchased a Cat Classic muffler for the 130G. I assume it was a Cat Classic. It was considerably cheaper than the regular Cat muffler. It has performed very well. We have a 2007 model Cat D5G LGP that needs a new muffler. Part number 224-7519 $544.12. Thought maybe it was old enough to qualify for Classic parts. Do you have any way one could check to see if Cat dealer would have a Cat Classic muffler for this tractor? I could not find it on the Cat website. I purchased an aftermarket muffler years ago for a D6D I had. Not thru Cat. It did not last till the water got hot. Burned the black paint off and commenced to rusting. Lasted less than a year.
Age of the machine is not really an indicator as to whether Classic parts apply or not. As I understand it Classic parts were introduced for machines used by private owners/hobbyists who don't clock a lot of hours. A D5G would not qualify under that classification. Either way there is no Classic Part Number equivalent for 224-7519. If you want cheaper than full-fat OEM then I would suggest looking at aftermarket. I can see them advertised for $225.
Thanks Nige. I appreciate your help. Do you know an aftermarket seller who might have a higher quality muffler? The ones I used to buy for the D6Ds were not quality. I think the genuine Cat mufflers are anodized, and they last really well. The aftermarket muffler I purchased from Cat for the 130G has lasted really well. I have had pretty good luck with American Craine & Tractor and Heavyquip.
would a muffler from a 2006 D3G LGP fit on your D5G?? If so, I may have a deal for you.
Interesting Sevice Magazine on pinion lube if you can find it. 2023/09/06 Maintaining the Proper Circle Drive Pinion Adjustment and Proper Lubrication Maximizes the Pinion Service Life on Motor Graders {0645, 5207, 6152, 6154, 6155} (M0071472-02)
Not sure. I do not think it will fit. Part # is 224-7519
See attached.
Thanks Nige
We used to use a dry graphite powder. It was in a box with a bag inside. You scooped it out and dropped it on the open face of the circle. Older champion. Not sure if any part of a cat circle is open. Anyway it was almost self leveling.
Got sidetracked and forgot, my part number is 224-7519 also. If you have not already gotten a replacement.
on a 2007 12h i operated we replaced top and bottom wear plates on the circle with poly inserts from cat. also had a machine shop make up the blade slide inserts from a self lubricated poly used in abattoirs on their sliding rails ,tough as nails and long wearing and the rails were like mirrors .giddyup