I was given a standby generator a year ago that doesn't function properly and I can't seem to find service information on it. Prior owners replaced it because it kept shutting down right after startup. The tech report pointed to a faulty water temperature sensor and listed it as non-available part. Owners opted to replace unit instead of trying to track down parts. Electrician friend of mine got it for free and then gave it me because he decided he didn't have time for another project. I figured I would fart around and see if I could get it running. I have not done anything with this unit yet as I'm trying to find service manuals, operator manuals, etc first. A search on Generac website comes up with nothing for the model number or the serial number. Pictures are of the data plate and the numbers cast into the block.
Send an email directly to Generac; I’ve read in other forums that they’re pretty responsive.
As said contact Generac, I would call them, might get lucky and get someone that is willing to help. Ed
The Generac system does not return anything about that model or serial. But it is pretty old. However I bet I know what it is. Post some farther back shots of the control panel opened up and the engine. I should be able to get you the info.
I will do that when I get home. Might be a couple days though.
BACK Away from the generator JUST a Tad and drop a photo of the Whole engine if you would. Please.
As said, get some pictures of the engine, I should have a manual for it. Generac was really into claiming every engine they put in as a "Generac" whether it was a Ford, GM, Nissan, Mitsubishi, etc.
I only had a couple minutes to snap some quick picks. If this doesn't have what you're looking for, I'll get some more pictures tomorrow when I have some more time.
Tofas … a Turkish delight for service
Hosspuller, you know anything about these Turkish Fiats? Where to get parts on the aftermarket? Colson, it probably has wire #85 that comes from pin 2 on the PCB and runs around to the various shutdown switches on the engine, LOP, HET and LWL. Trace out the wire and put a voltmeter on it to ground. If they are all open circuit then it should show near battery voltage on this wire. If one is starting to go bad or is closed then it will be at near ground potential. Anything less than battery voltage indicates a partial short or similar.
Sorry … No help .. Just interesting that Generac used a Turkish engine. Perhaps they were built under license by Fiat. Then Fiat parts would cross. Similar to Mahindra and Massey Ferguson.
Fiat And I thought had it bad with a Allis Whew!! Is there anything Fiat did not get into and ruin?
what is the engine not doing besides running? LOL does it turn over and smoke any?
@Birken Vogt Just to verify, can I test wire 85 while engine is not running? I don't have this hooked up to a propane source yet as I'm just getting around to sorting out what is wrong with it. I still have to get a propane tank, fittings, whatever it needs to get hooked up. It has a battery, but that is probably toast by now too. For testing purposes, can these generators be hooked to a small 20 or 30 lb tank for test runs? If so, what components would be necessary to do so?
In short, I was told it would start, but then shut down because the controller thought it was overheating. I haven't done anything to this yet except take pictures. I'm starting with the information shared to me and the fact that I don't know anything about this unit, yet. I was told (no, I have not verified yet) that engine is not overheating and temperature sending unit went bad. They attempted to replace but Generac does not support this unit anymore. the electrician working on it installed a newer style sending unit that is used on the newer generators, and the problem didn't change. They were told by Generac that the two sending units are of different type and are not interchangeable. This is when original owner opted for newer and improved and a few years down the road, it wound up at my doorstep.
Wire 85 will be grounded by the LOP switch when the engine is not running. I don't think there is any way to tell if the unit was overheating or otherwise to the casual observer, they were probably just guessing. 85 is the single fault wire that runs around to every switch on the unit for shutdown and it just gives a single light. If I had to guess I would say the low coolant level switch was failing partially grounded because I have seen that before. But if others got in there and put on a gauge sender instead of an overheat switch then it's anybody's guess what is going on. Keep in mind that everything on this unit is suspect from the starter motor to the engine block (corrosion) to the alternator to the timing belt (where do we get a new one?) to the fan support to the generator end bearing to the voltage regulator to the control board, the list just never ends. Also don't ever move that 0-1-2-3 switch on the control panel unless you want to see sparks and fire.
Looks a opportunity for a repower!!
I had that thought too when I accepted this project. Go find a cheap 2.0L pinto engine and start from there. Or 4B Naturally Aspirated Cummins, something of that sort. It'll probably end up as scrap long before I ever get to doing a repower though. I love a challenge, but I always seem short on time.
I appreciate the insight. When I do get around to starting this thing I will keep sharing here. I know time doesn't treat idle machinery well in any regard and this is no exception. It would be neat to see it put back in service, but I'll be realistic about my expectations. What's the 0-1-2-3 switch do?
Usually, the switch reads voltage & amps of each phases. Zero = off (at least on Power panels) I wonder what was in the empty square hole.
The switch switches what the 120-240 volt meters and such are reading/connected to. Unfortunately they are a whole stack of contacts and can get sticky and break and one will switch when another one stays and turns into a dead short on generator output over an 18 ga wire and the whole harness goes poof. The engines you mentioned above, you can find existing used generators with them already and don't have to do any work. The engine/generator interface on this model is proprietary not SAE and would likely be a big problem.
I appreciate the information. Good to know that kind of stuff in advance before I get stupid involved with it. I've got a budget cap for this project, and if I can't get it working cheaply, I'll cut my losses and buy one worth having. But, I will give it a go once we get past the holidays.