Hey folks My skid steer died today allmost like it was just shut off, thinking it might be something to do with fuel solenoid. It was running good then just quit, I found a lose wire by the solenoid but can not figure where it goes? Any ideas, pictures, diagrams, would be greatly appreciated :notworthy
Has it got the solenoid monted the side of the injector pump or it has in the pump
1840 has a Cummins engine. Item #12 is shutdown solenoid.
some 1840 has different pump set up than what picture
Yes, there are other variations, I just posted one. This one has the the fuel solenoid on top. Item #8 This one has an external solenoid with harness connector, doesn't sound like what maddog describes. Harness connectors typically don't come loose.
the one with solnoid that mount the pump is fun to change
Thanks for the quick replies and diagrams :drinkup{this forum is awsome!} I'm going out to work on it, I'll give an update later
got it running, 2 wires broke by the fuel pump. They were a pain to get too but fixed them. It ran good for a while, then started to bog down and smoke{bluish}. I'm thinking maybe the fuel line is plugged/freezing. I did have it in the heated garage{40-50degree F}, when I 1st got it out and started plowing snow it was running good, after about 30-40 minutes it started to struggle{high temp lately 12-14F}. It seems to run fair at just above 1/2 throttle, anymore then that and it bogs down and starts blowing smoke. I'm going to get a new fuel filter tomorrow and some diesel additive, see if that makes a difference. They're calling for somewhat cool temps for the next couple of days 15-20F below zero, not suppose to snow so maybe I'll leave it be??? Again thanks for the help and diagrams, any other ideas on what may be going on are very welcomed
Probably the most important thing, aside from using additives in winter, is to keep the bottom of the tank drained of water and dregs. If you keep the bottom of the tank drained, you won't get junk in the fuel system that would foul things up.
I am in the same general area as you. I would dump at least 5 gallons of kero in the tank. The fuel is not always properly blended for the temps we get. I always add some kero in the dead of winter as it has a much lower gelling temp. Filter change is a good idea as well.
thanks again folks, I have a bulk tank for fuel, during the winter months I add kero and anti-gel additives to it for all my diesel engines. The problem with this machine is that I bought it used and didn't run a full thing of fuel through it before winter came. It is possible that it had enough bad fuel{dirt water??} in it to cause me some issues. Bill Onthehill: is that a picture of one of your neighbors{profile}? We have a few bears up here that we really enjoy watching when they let us
maddog, if you purchased the machine, and have not yet drained the bottom of the tank, then you really should. Without doing so, you have no clue what's in there. On the other hand, when you drain it, you may find nothing but clean fuel at the bottom. Then again, you may find "WHAT THE HELL!" Only one way to find out.
Maddog, that is a pic of one of several bears that are around here. He was rooting around my trash hole and stood up real pretty when I hollered at him. If you have any water in your fuel you will have ice and frozen filters this morning. BRRRRR!
Hi again folks, I took the filter off, nothing frozen but a whole bunch of crap came out . I quess I'll need to drain the bottom like suggested, I don't think it will be today though -26 fahrenheit. Thanks again for all the help. Bill onthehill; When I was building our home I had a bear{I would say it weighed close to the 400lb mark or more} come up to me. Got within 50' or so then sat down, so I figured what the heck might as well be neighborly and strick up a conversation. The bear didn't have much to say but was a good listener and seemed interested in our little project{house}. Last year we had a little one{under 100lbs} come in and hang out for a bit, the wife really enjoyed watching it. They can be very comical just doing their everyday routine. The native indians say having a bear cross your path is a good omen.
OK Willie, I finally got rid of my last forever Bobcat. I know if I didnt buy worn out machines, I might like the Bobcats, the electrical just drives me crazy. I bought my old Case 1840 back, I tried to kill it one time and here I go again. I cant find my maintenance books, so Im asking questions again I noticed the drive chains are slapping when you move the machine, Im guessing there is no oil in the chain drive boxes. I found what I call the drain (between the tires, on bottom side of the drive case) but I dont see where to add oil. Im sure this machine hasnt been serviced, since I sold it 5 years ago.
Good to have you back from the darkside Willis! Those plugs on the side are for checking oil level, the drains are under the chain cases - behind the rear wheels. Only need about 10lts in each side. If chains are slapping, they probably need adjusting.
Back from the darkside. Bah ha ha ha hahahaha :lmao Yep, Alrman nailed it, the plugs in the side "is" the oil level and the first order of business with slapping chains on an 1840 is adjusting chain tension. If that doesn't fix the problem, or you run out of adjustment, it would then be time to look inside chain cases.
I replaced all the wheel bearings and seals, when I had it, Im trying to remember how to adjust the chains Here goes remove back tires loosen nuts on back housing, with slotted holes turn adjusting bolt, in tighten clockwise direction Now I forgot how much to tighten, or how to check tension************????? I sure wish this machine had a lift/tilt cab. I remember replacing a hyd hose through the seat access, not good Thanks for the info on the chain drive oil plug
Yeah, tilt cab is nice, but when I used to work on those machine I got to where I could slide the cab forward fairly quickly to do repairs like that. Far easier than fighting it through that seat hole. :Banghead You're going to have the wheels off the ground anyway to access adjuster and locking nut as well as axle housing nuts. Once you do some adjustment you can turn wheel hub back and forth to check for slack/tension of chain. One thing you may find is dirt packed in behind axle housing nuts that cause problem sliding housing. You can remove nuts one at a time and remove dirt from slots with air nozzle.
Thanks, I will keep you posted on the progress I also noticed, that the right hand drive, was slower than the left. Is there an adjustment for this?
Probably just the way the linkage is adjusted.
Wire came off injection pump on 1940 Case skin steer, how do i get to it to re attach it?
Welcome hm 1054! In short ...... with great difficulty ..... If you can raise the loader frame manually, it will make it slightly more accessible. Long skinny arms are very useful in this situation ...... :yup