1993 1845c Everything functions great upon startup. I can work the machine as normal, as soon as I stop the machine/lift the safety bar up and try restart the machine I lose all power to the drive wheels. Behaves like it's in neutral, no load on the engine. Have full control of boom and tilt and aux hydraulics. I cannot find any electrical switches relating to the seat or bar. I adjusted the mechanical cables/parking pins and they work as they should. It has happened twice now, 1st time I left the machine and came back and it drove again. Now it's stranded in a parking lot. Is there a saftey switch not easily visible with the seat out even? Is there a plunger or valve that disables drive? First time skid steer owner feeling lost. Any help is appreciated.
Remove seat and see if driveshaft between engine and pumps turns with the engine. There is a coupling that wears out on the engine flywheel. That shaft only runs travel. Boom and bucket are from pump at rear of machine.
Just checked, it's spinning as it should. There are a couple of sensors on the side of that drive pump, when I got the machine they were unhooked. I hooked them up before, but see no difference in operation now or before when they were disconnected. (I've tried both ways now again).
All the 1845s ive been around on , the safety just engaged two pins one on each side to keep the machine from rolling when you lift up the bar or handles . the pump for the bucket and arms is on the front of engine when you open the back door the travel pumps one for each side are inline under the seat at the rear of engine. Have you checked the hydraulic oil level ? And welcome to the forum
Thanks for the welcoming! I'll be hanging around here lots.. didn't want to start out this way though. All the fluids have been changed and oil level is correct for hydraulics. I did adjust the tension on the wheel lock pins, I did that after it lost drive the first time thinking there was a sensor down there somewhere. Ive thoroughly inspected now for saftey sensors and it seems they are non existent. I just don't understand why I lose drive only after stopping/raising seat bar. Everything is a-ok until that happens. I'm sure towing it 50ft to my shop door isn't the best idea either.
the sensor's on the pumps are 2 for backup alarm and 1 for hyd temp
Thank you!! Eventually I'll get a schematic and learn this thing top to bottom. Still can't get movement back on the machine.
Did the machine have good power at the wheels or would it not spin the tires after it warmed up
It had good power, it was spinning the wheels right before I shut it down to talk to someone. Mind you this is pushing some snow on ice, and the machine was only 1/2- 3/4 throttle. I leveled our shop lot moving gravel last time I seriously used it and it didn't seem to have weak drive. It is leaking ontop of the drive pump where the right side linkage connects, visible in my video.
Standing in the bucket looking at the pumps on the left side there is a hose that comes from the filter this is the hose that feeds the charge pump that feeds the two travel pumps . you might want to see if you are getting oil from the filter to feed the pumps.
Hose #1 is inlet hose feeding charge pump
just had a thought that filter might be higher than the hyd. oil level so it wouldnt run out at the pumps if taken loose unless you put a little air pressure on the tank . See if its higher or lower than the oil level.
I will be heading back to the machine in an hour or so, I'll have a good look at the inlet hose and filter. The hydraulic filter is located above the oil level I'm quite sure of that, but I'll verify soon. Appreciate all your help!
Went back to the machine, filter is above the sight glass. Started it up, no movement. Shut off, checked hoses, connections, filter. No problems. Jumped in and started it again, still wouldn't move. Off and keyed on (without starting) to check the display panel without it running, then started it and now I had full drive again. I finished moving 2 small piles, drove it back to my shop. Removed bucket, parked it in the shop and turned it on and off a few times and it moved every time. The seat bar definitely has no part in disabling drive. It moved until pins locked it (I was gentle here). I thought maybe hot hydraulic fluid temperature had something to do with it, until it didn't move the 1st time after sitting for a few hours. A frustrating problem with it being intermittent now. I will need to get educated on how the pump system works. If anyone has insight it would be appreciated.
There is NO electrical control of the travel (or boom/ bucket) on that machine. Attempt to turn the driveshaft both ways with the engine off. I'm still betting on coupling failure. Maybe there's still a tiny bit of spline left on the coupling?
Is the coupling inside the pump? I posted the youtube video above showing the universal joints spinning the input shaft of the pump no problem. You can see me function the right drive with no movement in that video. I would really like to be something simple like the coupling!
Alright, I watched the video... So it isn't the coupling. But, when you move the right travel lever, it looks like the shaft into the pump isn't rotating with the lever (the nut and shaft are fixed to the lever and should move in unison with the lever). The shaft has two flats and the lever has a Double D hole in it. It looks like the double D, and or flats are worn out.
I'll take a look into that! When I moved the lever it was ever so slightly as I didn't want to get launched into the bucket. Seems odd that when I do get drive back I get full movement equal on both sides. But I won't believe anything is good on this machine until I full inspect it myself. It's had some love, lots of new hydraulic lines and repairs but who knows how right its been done. Appreciate your help, good to know the coupler is not the issue at all.
So you are losing drive on both the left and right side. If so, then it's unlikely a linkage problem as a loose linkage would affect only one side or one side more than the other. Stuck brake pins (which are common) would again most likely affect only one side, not both at the same time. If it's affecting both side equally, then that points more to the coupler (which looks good) or the charge pump??? Partially stripped shaft. The 1845c is all mechanical, no electronics or safety lock, so it's something physically broken/wrong. for the leaking drive spool seals: HeavyEquipmentForums HeavyEquipmentForums
Watched that video and subscribed!! Thank you for sharing, can't wait to fix that leak. The loss of drive is on both sides. It goes from 100% to nothing, both control sticks can be moved and nothing happens at all. Brake pins both release, coupler spinning (as seen). I am unaware what the charge pump is, but I'll look into that. It never loses drive in the middle of using it, it only happens when I stop and shut down, then restart and have no drive. I've learned a lot from this post already, no electronics so it has to be something in the hydraulics. Starting to narrow it down some.
Back in the office again and reread the posts glad you got it back to the shop. Something could be stripped in the pumps or fluid not getting to the charge pump . Heres some pressure checks View attachment 231967
I can't thank you enough! I need to get a service manual like that. I will also have to get the proper gauges so I can service this properly. Once I have readings I'll post back, and hopefully eventually follow up with a solution.
Update: Charge pressure dropped right off, the new hydraulic filter was cut apart and metal shavings have been found. Looks like it'll need the tandem pump replaced. I'd like to replace the pump myself, but without a filter cart and a proper flush I'm wondering if it's better to have my local case dealer to handle it. Anyone have input on those who have done it themselves?
In addition to pumps and flush, drive motors need overhauled too. Last on I did was $5500 for tandem pump and both drive motors, but that was 8 years ago. Flushing was a PITA.
A diy flush system can be made fairly cheaply but in my opinion you need to take every hose off first, run a pig through them, clean the hydraulic tank, and pray that nothing got into the valves or other pumps. But I've seen guys only flush and keep going without issues but the machine was also on it's last legs and whatever time they got out of it was extra.
I think it's in my best interest to have the dealer do a flush and they said they'd inspect drive motors before proceeding as well. Appreciate the input! Now it's just a matter of finding a reman tandem drive pump, case dealer can't find one in Canada. Hopefully I have some luck state side.
Would have liked to see pictures of "medal shavings" in your filter. It seem odd to me that your machine would have full function then no go then back to full function with a catastrophic failure. I would start by pulling the charge relief valve and insect for scares or trash. Seems you don't have much to loose even going farther into pump at this point.
I thought it was strange too. I'll cut apart the old filter I kept before this last one that was cut (at case). I might go pick up the machine and pull the pump myself. I did try check all 4 of the side plugs where the valves are and nothing looked out of ordinary/no shavings. But maybe I can dig deeper into the charge pump. I'm a hydraulic noob keep in mind. Wish my problem was in the engine, so much easier for me to rebuild that.