I have 1845c that runs rough, and smokes when I throttle up from idle. It’s a 2001 with lots of hours, the meter is broke so not sure exactly. It has a bosch injection pump, any help would be greatly appreciated. It smokes white maybe bluish? Does not use oil or antifreeze, as far as I can tell. Removing the fuel cap does not change anything. It starts and idles perfectly. I’ve replaced the following: Fuel Injectors Fuel filter Air filter Lift pump Rubber fuel lines supply/return
Do a compression test likely low on compression.
Ok, is that something I can do, or take it to a shop? And if it has low compression? Engine rebuild? Thanks
You can certainly buy the tool and do it yourself.
Get the numbers off the pump and post them here, might help somebody to help you. How long have you had this? and how many hours have you put on it? and how many since you replaced the fuel? The usual advice with a diesel is to work the snot out of it if it's been sitting, that's not really possible with a skid steer with an oversized/underrated engine. If it doesn't use any oil, or blow any oil out the breather, starts OK cold, then I wouldn't worry too much about compression. The smoking and roughness could be a timing issue, but I don't know the pump to know for sure how that would happen.
I have only had it for a year or so. It started out I could run it hard for hours and then let it sit for an hour jump in it and it runs terrible. Now it’s more consistent on the terrible side. But like I said it starts and idles perfect. It hasn’t sat much since I bought it. It is the bosch ve injection pump.
Good info, now we're getting somewhere. I assumed it had sat and you might not have much history, since you replaced the fuel. So, would it consistently act up when re starting after shutting it off hot? any pattern could be helpful. And there any time now that it runs fine, idling and revving up? I DON'T know squat about the VE pump, but sure sounds like timing if it's not air or fuel starvation. Have to wait for Thepumpguy to come to the rescue...
Pump/engine timing is critical on a VE pump.. it’s not a diy job unless you have the special tools.. The only thing u can do is, mark where u start at & move the pump 1 way or the other and see if it straightens up.. DO NOT move the pump while the engine is running.!!! You’ll end up w the pump in pieces and your arm in a cast.. Tighten the bolts after any pump movement..
Thanks guys. I’ll get the timing checked and then a compression test if that doesn’t clear things up.
You gonna get Thepumpguy to come out to Kansas? or do you have a local guy? Be aware that this is just a 4 cylinder version of the first generation Dodge ram cummins 89-93, so there's lots of info out there, good and bad You can read through that sort of self help info if you want to try it yourself. What he suggested was to clean the pump flange where it bolts to the engine, scribe a line with a utility knife, then loosen the bolts and move the pump the width of that line, see if it changes. If it gets worse, move it the other direction.
You guys are welcome anytime! Thepumpguy must have been reading my mind with his warning about adjusting timing while the engine is running. I was thinking about taking it in to a mechanic. I need to do some research on who is best around here. But I’ll probably try adjusting the timing alittle. Just curious how timing gets off with the pump?
I was wondering that myself, and hoping thepumpguy had some secret info. Remember, the cam and pump run at half crankshaft speed, so 1 degree of the pump is 2 degrees of crankshaft movement. If you add up all the wear in the gear train and the pump, it doesn't take much to change the timing slightly. OR you could have something broken in the pump, I have no idea, but the info is out there if it's common, it will have happened to dozens of Dodge maniacs, and they'll have written all about it.
This pump has a system that varies pump timing when the engine is cold. It is controlled by a coolant temperature switch located just above the injector pump & a "wax" device within the pump to make the adjustment. Maybe worth looking into....
Thanks. I will look into that. Is the temperature switch directly on the injector pump. I see two switches on the pump. I’ll check them with my volt meter.
I'm curious to find out what the problem is as well. I have a Case 430 with the same injection pump that also runs fine from cold but will sputter and stumble and blow white smoke if you give it full throttle immediately off a hot start. I have set the timing on a dodge pickup with a VE pump. It's not hard to do as long as you're methodical. You will need a baring tool, metric dial indicator, and the adapter to attach the indicator to the pump (readily available and inexpensive).
I have a mechanic scheduled to come by in next couple weeks so hopefully I’ll find out something soon. I’ve read that the automatic timing device can wear out over time. I’m not real confident adjusting the timing yet. I’ll let you know what I figure out.
Does anyone have a pdf 1845c service manual and parts catalog that I could get? Thanks
1845c parts lookups are all over the web. I use avspare . com
I had the injection pump rebuilt and it’s never ran better.
Thanks for the update.. What made you decide to have the IP rebuilt ?
Well it was a $1,400 gamble I guess, but I had replaced all the cheaper stuff, and It really seemed to be fuel system issue. If it didn’t work I was thinking possibly cracked head. I considered rebuilding it myself, but that would have been a mistake I’m fairly certain. Marc at DCT in Hutchinson, KS rebuilt it. I highly recommend him. He helped me troubleshoot before I made the final decision to rebuild.
Seems like a fair price. I just had mine rebuilt for $1400. I busted the FSS trying to troubleshoot mine.
The governor comes apart and clogs up return check valve. Easy way to check is loosen up screws on side cover where you time the pump and run it. If it runs good pull check valve it will be full of governor material.
Wrong pump Moon... He’s got a Bosch VE..