Hello all, I was moving my 1968 D4D the other day and noticed that what looks to be oil/greese blowing and seeping out the exhaust pipe where it goes into the exhaust manifold "straight pipe" I was told it could be a bad injector that's spraying to much fuel and isn't getting burned, when I noticed it, I had the machine idleing for about an hour to an hour and a half "long story" so could it just be unburned fuel from letting it idle? please let me know your thoughts. Thanks in advance. a little info about the machine, it has sat for the last 12 yrs so the fuel is 12 yrs old and the engine has not been run in those 12 yrs
Could be the injectors. But with it idling for so long I would say it is oil getting up past the rings. With a bit of hard work it will probably clear up, as long as the bores aren't too glazed. Cheers,
the old cats would slober if they set and ideled for a long time, nothing to worry about, as long as fuel is not getting in to oil
thanks guys for the responce, i don't believe the bores are screwed up, i oiled up the cylinders and turned the engine over with a bar before i started it up for the first time and nothing was stuck/frozen it turnned over very smothley. POWEREDBYCAT why would working the machine hard help out? will it definitly run better with fresh fuel or is it true diesel never goes bad?
forgot to ask. what would cause fuel in the oil? also, any other tricks to freeing up the steering clutches besides filling the compartments up with a mix of diesel wd40 pb blaster etc. and tying the handles back and working the machine? the left side broke free after spraying inside the housing and working it, what are my chances of the right side breaking free? without tearing into it? thanks again everyone, this site sure is a wealth of knowledge, it never lets me down. Thanks again Danny
Sometimes the rings get stuck in their groves with years of carbon build up and sitting. Putting the engine under a bit load will get the temperatures up in combustion chamber freeing up the carbon and will let the rings seal properly on the bores again. As black60church says, it is nothing to worry about.
The fuel in the oil can be from a badly leaking injector. But if that is the case you should be getting some white smoke with it..
ok that makes sense, "un burned fuel" when the machine is ideling it will kinda miss/puff a little white smoke about every 30 seconds or so but if i increse the throttle that goes away completley, would you run the 12 yr old fuel in the machine or drain it and put fresh in? and do you normally operate a dozer at wide open throttle or do you just adjust it for the work your doing? if you didn't figure it out yet, it's my first dozer my neighbor just gave it to me, that the reason for all the questions. Sorry
No worries, you never learn if you don't ask questions. I wouldn't worry about the puffs of white smoke at this stage, get it out and run it for a bit first, that could very well clear up with some work as well. The fuel, i would be more concerned that there isn't any water in it and the filters/screens aren't full of rust and crap. The diesel can't be that bad as the machine is running, as long as there is no water and everything is clean use it up, no point in wasting it, I would top the tank up with new stuff though. Those old engines will near run on gear oil so a bit of old diesel won't hurt them. The throttle setting really depends on what you are doing with it. I assume it is a stick shift?
I cleaned out the settelment bowl, opened the drain on the fuel tank let it run out for about a minute and there was no water, "machine was parked 12yrs ago with a full fuel tank" and I also changed the fuel filter this was all before i fired it up, what did you mean by screens? believe it or not it's a power shift 3 speed forward/reverse
Wow a flash one! On most of the gear I have worked on there is usually a screen prior to the filter, attached to or close to the manual priming pump. Sounds like you have it under control though, as what you have done is all I would do as well. Being power shift open the throttle wide open and adjust power settings with the decelerator. Incidentally I haven't sighted a D4D for probably 15 years so I am stretching the memory banks, that is for sure!
haha what's a flash one Lol? and you are right, there was a screen inside the sediment bowl "pretty dirty" I looked all over the machine and no decelerator pedal/lever was that an option? or am I just missing it? any tricks to freeing up the steering clutches besides what I mentioned above? the left side broke free, what are my chances of the right side breaking loose? I'll be in much better shape once I get the books on the machine, not sure what everything is on the dash, there is a little red button??? then there is a little button with a spring looks to be broken off almost looks like a thermostat haha????? then there is a knob you can turn 3 different clicks, maybe lights at one time..
A flash one having power shift! You have got me on the decelerator I would have assumed it would have had one standard. (Could be completely wrong there). Would normally be on the right hand foot plate I would have thought. I am sure there are guys on this forum that could descibe how it is set up like a picture, hopefully they can step in and sort that out. Likewise with the steering clutches, all the old gear I have ever pulled out of the bush I have been lucky enough that the clutches have come free after moving them 100 metres. So I would be really guessing what works or doesn't..
well thanks again PoweredbyCat for all your help, i'll post a thread about the dash and hopefully someone can put a picture up like you mentioned
No worries mate.
not all power shift d4d's came with decelerator not sure when they started putting them on but they did not come standard on earlier models. Could be if you get up against a tree or some thing else solid hold back both steering clutches put it in and out of gear starting at half throttle lifting on the blade for more traction trying to cause as much friction as possible and as much shock on the stuck clutch as you can it may come loose. if you have another dozer to put against the rear of your d4 you can rock it back and forth I have had some luck with this method
I'll try that out Chum Duffy, Thanks
That oil coming out the stack is called wet stacking. It is from too much idling, put it to hard work and it will clear up. On the steering clutch, tighten the adjustment to take out the free play. Try riding the brake to heat up the drum, this will help with your wet stacking too. Once the drum gets hot repeated hard application of the brake may break it free. If the brake is working properly it will apply as much or more force than running it into a tree or anything. Let us know if it works.
TomA I'll give that a try as soon as I get a chance and post what the results are, thanks for the tip. I haven't really had any time to play with it since I walked it home last week.
some of the earlypower shifts did not have a declater
which ever cutting clutch is stuck pull the lever back and put blade against some thing and it should brake loose