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1970 Case 580CK Trans Shuttle Screen

mgm1986 · 2015-02-02 16:04

Hey folks, I want to start by saying, this is a great forum with a lot of excellent information. I recently purchased a new to me Case 580CK, appears to be a 1970, Serial Number 8670112. Has the model 33 loader/backhoe and also a six way grader underneath. Everything works except for some of the gauges and dash lights. Seems to burn a little oil maybe but runs strong. I am having what appears to be a common issue, no movement until she warms up a good 15 minutes. I did a fair amount of research and believe in addition to flushing the fluid in the trans and changing out all the filters, I need to find a way to clean the screen on the shuttle pump pickup. I found a thread where some of you folks did this by drilling a hole in the bottom of the pan so you could clean the screen and more easily flush the system. This is the thread I am referencing: My question for the experts, does this same thing apply to my model 580CK? If I use these measurements as a guide to drill a hole in the pan, am I okay? Thanks!! Joel

Replies29
  1. #1mgm19862015-02-02 16:08

    I guess a few more details would help! She is a diesel with a four speed and shuttle shifter.

  2. #2mgm19862015-02-02 20:47

    I dig some digging on the case website and it seems both the 580ck and the 580b had the same optional 4 speed sliding spur gear with full power shuttle and torque converter. They also both appear to have the same torque converter. I'd still like to hear what you guys think!

  3. #3mgm19862015-02-04 11:37

    Alright, eventually I am going to give this a shot and try to drill the hole in the pan. It seems the same setup in the CK and B models. However, the grader is directly in the way. Has anyone had a grader on their Case 580CK and if so do you have tips on how to remove it? Thanks!

  4. #4restore492015-02-08 11:20

    Had the same problem - had the top cover off (not as much trouble as you would think) borrowed a friends bore scope camera and made a 1/4 plastic hose I could snake down to the screen area and blow cleaner into area to dislodge scum and run out drain, Used the camera to check progress.

  5. #5mgm19862015-02-08 20:36

    That's a good idea, I may try that first as it looks like a challenge to get the scraper blade off the bottom to access the bottom of the pan. Thank you for the tip!

  6. #6Doug Overkill2015-02-08 20:46

    My 1971 580ck is similarly sluggish to engage the transmission when cold. This is much more noticeable when the fluid is low. Top off the trans and see if it makes a difference. Even a little bit low makes the issue worse.

  7. #7mgm19862015-02-09 08:48

    I will definitely check the level again as I ran her all day Saturday (no issues once warm). Thanks for the tip!

  8. #81968 Case 580CK2015-04-26 21:42

    MGM......did you ever get a chance to either drill a hole to clean the screen, or did you try putting a hose down from the top? Post some pics if you can. I have a 68 CK, and am curious as to how you proceeded, as I may want to try the same. Thanks.

  9. #9mgm19862015-04-27 09:07

    I have not yet done anything to resolve this issue as I need the tractor to finish clearing the lot for my garage and she runs great once warmed up. After I get the garage built I plan to give this a go although that is several months out. I am convinced this will resolve the issue I am having where she won't move til warm. My plan is to remove the grader from under the tractor so I can drop the oil pan to clean the screen thoroughly and drill the hole after measuring several times. In this case having a six way grader is making more work for me to get access to do this repair. Sorry I couldn't be more help, let us know how you decide to proceed.

  10. #101968 Case 580CK2015-04-27 19:15

    MGM......I hear you, as long as she is running and you can get the work done, some repairs just have to wait. I dont have any tranny issues, but just wanted to go ahead and clean that screen before any problems develop. I currently have the backhoe off, and ready to rebuild the tower controls which were leaking pretty bad. Glad I took the backhoe off, as it made access to the 15/16" bolts that hold the backhoe mount to the tractor axle alot easier......all the bolts were loose, and after soaking with PEE Bee Blaster for a few days, I managed to get her to moan/groan/squeek/pop, but after an hour I had all the bolts tight again. You like my pipe attached to the 3/4" drive breaker bar? Nuts were so tight that I thought I was gonna snap a bolt.

  11. #11mgm19862015-04-28 11:30

    Wow, that is a big breaker bar! Looks like your tractor is in really good shape for a 1968, great to see you are keeping up with the maintenance to keep her running like new!

  12. #121968 Case 580CK2015-04-28 19:06

    Hey MGM.....Big breaker bar, and I needed every inch of it too. The ole Case has actually been "rode hard and hung up wet", so to speak. She has not gotten the proper maintenance over the years, but I hope to take care of all that in 1 fell swoop. I plan to give her a new paint job and hopefully some new rubber soon.....along with alot of other repairs. See ya, good luck on the construction work.

  13. #13bobbeton2015-05-08 18:28

    Hello to all , great place for info ..I have a 1974 580b... this is my second one ...had to unload the other one in last recession. I also saw the reference to a screen on the front left of the valve body and I would like to try and clean mine....Ive been looking through the posts but haven't seen any specific details on location either to drill in and clean or using a camera probe and air in 1/4 tube . I would like to share some info also on these machines ....My first one the torque oil cooler in the radiator burst dumping oil into prestone...solution had it removed and added a outside rad in front of engine rad using Hayden #1040. Sure in winter you have to let it warm in neutral with shuttle engaged for a few minutes but it does the job. My second one I bought in the fall and it worked until it got hot then no more forward or reverse....when I went to check the filter in front of the rad I noticed that the power shuttle tubes were not connected to the rad.....previous owner must have had same problem with oil cooler and condemed it ...will have to do modification again because when the oil gets too hot no more forward or reverse. BTW any pics for the screen location would be great . Thanks

  14. #141968 Case 580CK2015-05-08 19:08

    Hey Bobbeeton......great to see you will be giving us some tips as you begin some of your repairs. I recently read a posting/thread where someone showed specifically where you drill the hole to make a plug hole to clean that screen (he had posted pictures and gave alot of good info.).....but Im not sure what the title of that posting was. Maybe someone else can chime in as to where to search for it.

  15. #15alrman2015-05-08 19:23

    Ding! The first post by mgm1986 in this thread has a link to ronspowertrain's excellent modification. :beerchug

  16. #161968 Case 580CK2015-05-08 21:05

    Alrman......"If it were a snake, it would have bitten me"......right under my nose, and I did not know it was in this thread. thanks.

  17. #17jay47062023-04-30 15:26

    So after reading two hours last night alla out the drilling hole idea I had to try it. I saw a lot of advice about 3 inch vs 3.5 inches from the center of bolt hole in the frame. I split the difference. Used a drill stop and landed smack dab in the middle of the screen. Perfect info. Screen was completely plugged with old gasket material in three colours. Flushed with diesel, blew air around the screen, filtered the diesel and repeated a few times. So much crap came out. No water, no metal, just rubber so that's good. I orders a bigger bit and tap for the 3/4 but it comes tomorrow so this hole is only 5/8 for now. Im so pumped and hope this fixes my sluggish,low power issue. Thanks everyone! Ron from Kawartha,and Phil who hasn't been on here since 2010 laid it all out for me. Pictures are of screen partly cleaned. The other is sediment still coming out after three flushes.

  18. #18Tinkerer2023-04-30 16:44

    Nice job ! Be careful that you you don't run the tap in far enough that it damages the screen.

  19. #19jay47062023-04-30 17:42

    Good advice. I was super careful with the drill after hearing about the guy that went thru. I'll keep u posted. But fingers crossed for the test drive. Ive got a barn yard to clean out !

  20. #20ECL2024-08-25 09:36

    Which hole in the bottom plate gets you to the torque screen. I'd like to do what you did w/o removing the lower plate. Thanks

  21. #21stinky642024-08-25 20:16

    STRANGER DANGER !!!!!!

  22. #22ECL2024-08-25 23:20

    Are you suggesting I not do this? ↑

  23. #23stinky642024-08-26 10:09

    No, sorry I was tired when I read your question, didn't make sense, looked like AI babble. Check post #18 of this thread for pictures from jay4706. You have to drill and tap the hole in question yourself.

  24. #24ECL2024-08-26 10:16

    My bottom is not just an oil pan, but cast iron, it seems. I'd prefer to shoot pressurized diesel down through the top to clean the screen, if that were possible.

  25. #25ECL2024-08-26 10:24

    Were you drilling through a pan or was it cast iron like mine appears to be? Any way to clean screen by pressurizing diesel from the bottom plate hole, allowing crud to come out drain plug hole? Thank you.

  26. #26Tinkerer2024-08-27 12:29

    NO plates are involved. The hole is drilled in the cast steel case. Read post #34 in this thread.

  27. #27ECL2024-08-27 13:47

    Thank you. Very informative.

  28. #28ECL2024-09-03 09:12

    I'm where you were with this situation. Which hole did you blow cleaner into to dislodge scum to run out drain. I have the top two plates off and just the bottom plate showing. Thank you

  29. #29Remick2026-03-31 15:00

    I am curently looking at buying a 1975 case 580 that apparently runs good but does not go forward or back , I wonder if the problem could be this plugged pick-up screen , if not , removing the transmission and torqu tube seam to be a big and maybe costly job . Any advice out there ?