Since my cat have bad blow by have to add oil frequently but my oil-stick never show oil lever even I overfilled oil. Any clue to how to fix it? Thanks in advance.
How do you know it’s overfilled if no oil on stick?
Are you sure it is the correct dipstick??
First time i put 5 gal bucket oil and 2 more gal oil the oilstick is not show any oil. When I start engine. Oil shoot a lot from blowby pipe.
Never think about that. Let me do some research and find out the what oilstick should be
Check the manual for the correct oil capacity. Drain the oil and refill with the manual spec oil capacity amount. Use something long enough like a coat hanger and mark it with the level of the oil to the top of the dipstick tube. Use this level as your mid/safe mark for a dipstick length.
Cool. That is a heafache remove solution. Btw. Mine dozer have bad blowby but no smoke from exhaust. Any problems could happen if I keep add oil without rebuild it？Does any blowby engine treatment can reduce blowby？
Any chance of posting a serial number? Because I tried looking in SIS and there are several D3's listed and the one I checked said engine oil, which I assume we are talking about here, only takes 3 gallons! You seem to be saying you put a total of 7 gallons in the engine! That would be over double the oil level so I imagine it pushed out some! Before even thinking about some magic chemicals to fix a problem you need to learn some stuff about this machine be for you or it gets hurt very bad!
I also thought that 7 gal seemed too much but I didn't have the specs. When then correct level is found, buy or make an appropriate dipstick. It may not have much blow by, it may have just been overfilled. Hope overfilling didn't cause a problem. Update the amount of blow by when the oil level is correct, someone may have a solution.
Only BAD things can happen if you do that. It will eventually go BANG in a big way - usually accompanied by a connecting rod exiting the side of the cylinder block. At that point you had better have a large wad of money in your wallet.
Have been searching seriel tag all over the machine but found nothing. Cat 3204 engine is what I assume
What model # is shown on the decals.? D3, D3B, D3C.? Maybe get a serial number off the engine if you can. Another option is to take a photo and post it here. Someone might recognize the model.
BANG！that will definitely hurt！ Just drain the oil there are only 7/8gal oil left. I guess that why smoke so bad recently. I am really need to do sth for the dipstick.
My 931B holds 12 litres. Not sure what the earlier models hold but the dipstick on mine is quite long and has to snake it's way down into the pan. You have to feed it down all the way a couple inches at a time. A coat hanger wouldn't work. 3204's are known for blow-by because they only had 2 ring pistons. IPD and maybe others make 3 ring pistons for them which is a big improvement.
If you can find an engine S/N anywhere then that should lead to the correct Part Number for the dipstick. By any chance does the dipstick you have right now have a Part Number stamped on it.? If it does we might be able to prove it's the WRONG one. I know that doesn't help you find the right one without a machine or engine S/N but at least it would prove that you're putting far too much oil in it.
By searching the dipstick number I found it is for toyota 4 running. Omg！thanks for ur info. I never think that way.
Can you supply us with any numbers? Maybe even some numbers of the metal tags on hoses? There are a few here who can do searches on Cat internet(SIS) and find all kinds of information. How about a ROPS tag if it new enough to have one of those.
There are numbers all over the engine. Where is the engine sn located usually？
I'd be looking for numbers on tags or stamped into block. Just about anything other than casting numbers should help. I'd say give all you can and one of us should be able to figure it out. Look at the chart below, the numbers and letters in the right column should be followed by five digits that would be the serial number of the engine or machine a tag might have more than those but if you find any thing with one of those prefixes in it give us the how number and letters: If in doubt just post up everything and let us sort it out for you. Any chance of contacting who ever sold this thing to you? Or is it hot and no one wants to get caught with hot dozer?
Did you look under the dash near the floor plates to the side of the clutch/brake pedals. I seem to think they were somewhere in that area of the operators feet, at least on a 931B which is the same base machine?
get us a picture or 3
Already asked in post #12 on Page 1. The answer was a deafening silence. It's like somebody's not listening - a bit like SWMBO.
Not trying to hassle the OP here but why would someone by or own a machine of any kind and not know the serial number or some other identifying numbers? If someone was selling something as major as a D3 but could not or would not give me the number I would be tempted to step away or maybe even let law enforcement people know about it. I mean, it's not like we are talking a 20 year old Homelite chain saw or a old push mower or such!
Not all buyers are real savvy. I thought dipstick was a pretty universal term.
You would think common sense would play a major role in a purchase of this caliber!
There is no registration of serial numbers on machines with any government agency and there is no requirement to give a serial number when purchasing parts at any dealership. Law enforcement wouldn't care a lick about a machine with indeterminate ownership unless someone made a claim and filed a police report. Even insurance companies many times will insure a machine without serial numbers or any other identifying information other than a make and model. No UCC is filed if cash is paid for the machine and many times I've seen those with no serial number applied to the paperwork. So why would someone getting a real good deal on a piece of heavy equipment care about a serial number? Remember, common sense is not a real common occurrence.
s/n locations and fill capacities (early D3's)
4n668 is the number from the front left of the engine. Been used dozer about 12 hr in few days. Burned 1 gal oil. Is that so bad？
Bought the machine from a guy who inherited from his dad. Guess he dont know nothing about it like me
How much work will it take to rebuild the engine? I am using the machine to work around my 15 acres yard. Never rebuild big machine. Did small engine like 4 wheeler etc.
Oil leak under dashboard. Any oil pressure gauge or something under dashboard? Sorry I got so many questions.
I don't know if you need to consider rebuilding the engine just yet. Leaking oil could be from the line to the oil pressure gauge. I had the actual gauge leaking on mine. I replaced it and at the same time changed the thin/cheap plastic line to a rubber hose. What was the oil level at and how do you know you burned a gallon? How did you measure the oil? Some engines set their own oil level that may or may not be the same as what the "correct" dipstick says. It's generally pretty close though. It might be best to a have local Cat mechanic have a look at your machine.
The engine oil pressure gauge is the one to the right of the hour meter. An engine like this shouldn’t use a gallon of oil in 250 hours work, let alone 12...!! Remember that the oil pan only contains (allegedly) 3 gallons if it is the model of machine that OM mentioned above. If you used a gallon you would have used one-third of the contents of the pan FFS...!! However like Welder Dave pointed out above I think that until you have a correct way of measuring the oil level everything about “oil consumption“ is very much an assumption on your part.
Regarding numbers - 4N668 is the Part Number of that cover. Did you try looking in the areas of the photos posted by Old Magnet above to see if you could find any Serial Numbers..?
As I requested before, please post a photo of the complete tractor so that someone who is knowledgeable on these machines can take a look at it and maybe straight away tell you what model you have.
I wonder what the other side of the firewall looks like? It might be a lot worse than the oil shown below the dash. Loss of oil could be a combination of things. It isn't the oldest model as it has the pedals coming down from under the dash. Older models they came up from the floor. It might be an early B model.
Norman - here is a photo from a different machine model showing what the engine Serial Number plate looks like. If you have a 3204 engine then the model # stamped on the plate would be 3204XX The plate is riveted to the cylinder block, lleft side of the engine. Just to give you an idea of the location the dark line directly above the plate in the photo is the cylinder head gasket, above that in the photo you can see just a bit of the cylinder head.
Check 3 of the 4 locations，dont have any tag or number. Will check bever gear case. I am using a wire as a dipstick to measure the oil. Seems like it is not measure correctly since the machine is not at least the same level. I will go ahead to take off the dashcover and fix leak oil pressure guage leak first. Next time Probally drain oil from pan to see how much oil it burn every 10 or 20 hrs. I will take more pics.
I'd say it's an early D3B by the ROPS and gauge locations.
According to OM's photo if you look through between the two pipes where the arrow is you ought to see the Serial Number plate. Because it can be dark in that hole, the plate will be painted the same colour as the engine block, and everything is most likely covered in oil then it will not be the easiest thing in the world to spot.
That's a D3B, Level gauge (dipstick) is a #4N0234 s/n locations is the same as in the picture posted, sump is 3 gallons. For comparison here's a D3 (79U)
4N-0234 Oil Level Gauge listed at $57 from your local friendly Cat dealer. I suggest you get hold of one ASAP. Here is apparently a genuine one (surplus stock disposal) for $38 - plius S&H I assume. https://www.pillarsurplus.com/Genuine-OEM-Caterpillar-CAT-Guage-AS-Oil-Level-D-p/l001279.htm
Or a counterfeit from Regal
At the end of the day we're still gonna have to get a Serial Number in order to help the OP identify correct parts for the machine further down the road. Unfortunately the D3B model has seven different Serial Number prefixes, and they are all made in Japan. So the chance is that the OP's D3B could be any one of the seven options.
Can not find it from where u pointed.
The dipstick on my D3B is 27.5 inch from top of tube to tip of stick. Full is at 26 inch and add is at 26 5/8 Bad thing is as I was putting stick back in , it snapped in 2, now I have to fix or find one
That might be the tag here.....
Agree, just looked on mine and the tag is right behind the pipe
AD, check the links to the eBay ads posted above for a replacement oil level gauge.
Might do that, but thinking about speedometer cable and weld it to my upper piece. Either that or weld the 2 pieces back together
Wow. This is it. Don’t know why I didn’t find it. It is 7n6938. 3204D1 or 3204DI
There ought to be another number on that plate somewhere. 7N6938 is the Engine Arrangement Number and will help you big-time if you have to find parts for it. 3204DI is the engine model and the type of fuel injection (Direct Injection in the case of your engine.) You are missing the Engine Serial Number. This should be 45Vxxxxx where the five digits after the 45V are somewhere between 21898 and 32939. Look back at the photo on my post #37, the engine Serial Number on that plate is 78P28005. It should be in the same place on your engine plate. As OM stated above, your tractor is a D3B. The 7N6938 Engine Arrangement (provided that it's the original engine) appears to narrow your machine from all the possibilities of D3B to only one, a 28Y-prefix machine. 28Y is the only one of the seven D3B options that used the 7N6938 Arrangement according to the Parts Manuals.
Last year when I bleeding fuel system. I broke the fuel adapter（7n6143）where I point as “A” on the following pic. I took off the cover and have my friend welded together. But still leaking fuel. I check the part price 298 at cat and 198.57at regal corp. Why that little part is expensive....would it be a problem leave it like that？ Been using jbw and some plastic bonding still have little leak. Also for the coolant pumpthere are 2 wires. the upper is broken. Have 2 other wire next to it. What is that wire for？
thanks, that helps. I overfill 1 inch oil
The 8N6143 Adapter Assembly is expensive because a new fuel injector is included in the assembly.......
Oh I see. last time I replaced a hydraulic tube. I gave my number to CAT dealer, they told me it updated to a Assembly with two parts. 105+ 190, so I spend $300+ to get 2 parts. when I got the parts I found I can buy part separately just $105 from CAT online, I tried to return the other one, they dont allow me to return anything...
Since my blowby is bad. I am like sitting in a smoke. Wondering, is that possible to extent the blowby tube to the top of the cab?
Seems your also missing the vehicle s/n 28Yxxxx for this low ground pressure (wide gauge) machine. Should be on the same tag or on bevel gear case. These were built from 1979 to 1988. Find that s/n and we can tell you what year this is.
I think you need to have an experienced mechanic do an assessment on your dozer. Parts for machines are expensive but in all honesty 2 or $300 is cheap when it comes to crawlers . Wait till you have to do the undercarriage. It's like someone buying a Ferrari and complaining about the price of gas. I believe "A" in your pic. is for the air cleaner restriction indicator. The wires by the T-stat housing could be for an optional ether injection system that uses a temperature sensor (I think B in your pic.) to prevent ether from being injected into a warm engine. Also possible one of the wires is for a horn. Mine has a black button similar to the starter button on the dash for the ether and another button by the hyd. control for the horn.
Another number on the is (_)5v25486
Lol. As a “ferrari” owner I feel much better for the money I put. My dozer have all kind of problems I definitely need a assessment. But since the oil stick problem has been solved it did save me from big trouble. I am going ahead to buy part without hesitate
Is 7n6143 the right part number for my dozer？ Qty is 4. Guess they sell 4 of them as assem？
That's the Engine Serial Number - it's actually 45V25486. That will help to locate any parts for the engine that you might need. As OM pointed out, the only thing missing now is the 28Vxxxxx number that will date the tractor and give access to Parts & Service information for everything else on the machine other than the engine.
7N6143 is the correct part for your engine. If you only want to replace the one that is leaking then you can buy 1. If you wanted to replace a full set then you would buy 4. The price for 4 pieces would be more than $1200 from Cat or $800 from Regal Corp based on your prices above.
Things getting a little complicated? Added about 3.5 gal oil last week. After 12 hrs work added another 1 gal oil. After that another 12 hr work. I drained oil today got About 2.7gal oil left. Did fix Oil guage leak. But I think that is 0.1 gal leak at most. Omg， that thing gonna kill me
Thanks，good news I fix the fuel leak by polishing the connection.
Might have to rebuild it like I did.
How many hrs did u spend to rebuild it？ Did u pull engine out of frame？ How much about the part？
I took me a while because of the machine shop and I also had other things going on. Here is my thread HeavyEquipmentForums I would plan on 5K and should be less if you can get a machine shop which doesn't try to rip you off. I installed new 3 ring pistons
Looks like we have exactly the same machine. Saw the money spend 4500+6500+...I am trying not to spend too much money on it. My left brake stuck have to pull it back after I grease where connect to top and back. Where do u get ur manual？
Would it be a one man's job if I rebuild the engine by myself?
Got the manual on ebay I rebuilt it my self, only needs a machine shop for the block and head work
Also remember I needed my injection pump rebuilt which cost, and I paid to have the motor reseleved which the shop did not do
Welcome to the world of Yellow Iron. There is a school of thought that says if you couldn't afford to maintain and repair it you shouldn't have bought it in the first place.........
Engine has to come out for rebuild and may have to have the transmission attached. It does on the loader models. Cat or someone on here can provide the removal instructions. Trans. mounts also had to come out on my loader to get everything out. I think it was around 1700lbs. for engine and trans. Trans. filter (3F/3R) can be checked when its out for clutch materials or other debris. Leave the oil filter off when you put it back in or you'll dent the bottom of it. Very tight fit! Engine doesn't use sleeves so has to be bored oversize. IPD 3 ring pistons are the best option and put a new oil pump on it at the same time. My engine was done by a shop that specializes in it and was about 7K. The injection pump didn't need any work but the head was done. Gear on oil pump stripped teeth and engine had to come out again. Oil pump measured to spec. is why it wasn't replaced the first time. Some machines have a different crankcase breather and I think it's worth double checking what exactly is causing the loss of oil/smoke. My engine had to come out a 3rd time because the rings didn't seat but thankfully the shop covered it under warranty. Used a lot of oil but no smoke at all. It cost more but I think was a good idea to have it done by a reputable shop. Especially good since they stood behind their work. They don't call them money pits for nothing. Undercarriage was about 8K. Steering clutches and brakes about 7K. Bucket cylinders rebuilt with re-chroming about $1700. Unfortunately you have to do these things to have a proper working machine. Leaving leaking cylinders and what seem like minor annoyances will just get worse and nickel and dime you to death. While it's not a new machine, it can still do a bunch of work for a lot less money. A new equivalent size machine would be around 150K.
Just info You can pull the motor and level trans in place, I did Agree motor doesn't have sleeves but if its worn to far, you can have bored oversize and sleeve liners pressed in. This is what was done to mine
I think IPD has pistons up to .040" oversize. My engine only needed to be bored .010" over. It's a bunch of work having to do the engine and there's no sense in trying to do it on the cheap. Not that you can't try and save money but you want to make sure and go through everything.
Agree, not talking cheap. Boring and larger piston is cheaper then bore, sleeve and new pistons.
what does the breather in ur d3b look like. Do u have the part number? Mine have a crack and oil drips from crack along with smoke. I guess most of oil loss from breather. On eBay there some breather oil catch can, maybe I can give a try?
Oil dripping from a breather means massive blow by, so we can come up with a part number, but that isn't your issue. You have some busted rings in my opinion, and if it was mine I would be replacing the dozer or rebuild the motor
Any compression test for dozer like gas engine？
Yes, need to remove injectors and install gauge. Keep in mind pressures for a diesel are much higher, like maybe 400 psi. Not sure how much for our motors. Your getting enough pressure for fuel to ignite so this is why its running. getting oil in a cylinder also increases pressures, and this will also help it run. IMO don't see compression telling anything which will change the issue, your pupping oil and only why to fix it is a tear down to find out what the issue is. I would not recommend, but could do an in-block over haul. Remove pistons and check bore for dimensions. If good then change them out for 3 ring. Use something to remove ring ridge, hone and then put back together.
You can do a compression test but need a higher pressure gauge for diesel engines. They can also do a blow-by test. I don't think the oil pan will come off in the machine because the cross member for the track frames is in the way. If you're going to do the engine pull it and do it right.
Yes, you are right now that I think about it, I could have never gotten the pan off with motor installed
I got a heavy duty engine hoist, any recommendation for steps or materials to get engine out of frame?
See if the Cat dealer can print the removal procedure or maybe someone on here can. It makes it a lot simpler than trying to figure it out on your own.
If you are thinking about repairing this dozer, and you don't have the service manual, you're backing up. You can download it from the Cat website for a fraction of what this job's going to cost, and it'll be a great investment.
Take a bunch of pics to keep notes of how things went together. Can also be used to post progress Drain radiator, hydraulics and transmission, and shut the fuel supply off I just winged it and used a 2 ton hoist. Removed the forward ROP bars over the hood. all the stuff you would think of covering the motor, and radiator. Also remove the console and housing, and there are temp senders which go in the torque converter housing, and other to the thermostat housing. They are solid tubes so must be removed before housing is removed. No need to remove the peddles is I remember correctly. The starter has one bolt holding it which is a bear to get at, and can be done from under the tractor. Check oil cooler on the right side for clearance. Bolts holding motor and trans together are easy enough to get at once everything is removed covering
I did not see the service manual being available for download, might not have looked in the right place, but did find it along with other manuals available in paper or CD versions. And yes if some one is going to be keeping a machine like this and do any repairs themselves it would be money well spent. https://www.servicemanualpro.com/?page=Products&searchbox=23Y Not sure what a service call would cost but really doubt you could get much done for the $303.27 price of that CD!
The Cat procedure in the shop manual will tell you things you might not think of. This is especially helpful if you've never done it before. On my loader would have never guessed the transmission mounts have to come off to have enough room to get engine and tranny out. Why wing it if you don't have to?
Finally found the SN number. 27y0724. Is the attached pic is the one I need to rebuild engine?
Your machine is an early 1980 D3B. 2nd year for the B models. I think that manual is the one you need but one the Cat experts would know for sure. I think you want publication number SENR7911. Nige posted the info below in earlier thread regarding a D3B. For manuals try Service Manual Pro - https://servicemanualpro.com/?page=Products&searchbox=27Y This is what a search throws up ....... the O&M Manual for $42 would be good value. It will give information regarding oils, illustrate procedures for changing oils & filters, adjustments, etc,
Well if the link Welder Dave posted is the right one for you machine and I have no doubt it is, then I would say the Operation and Maintenance manual for $55.00 would be the bare minimum I would want. Actually I would prefer it on CD as that way you can just print off what you want and when the pages get dirty print off new ones. Now if you are planing on keeping this machine for a few years and doing any of the repairs and upkeep yourself then that Service Manual would be the best money you could spend over the life of the machine. If it saves you one road call it will pay for itself. Not trying to put the road call mechanics out of work but to me an informed owner is a good thing. Saves wasted time.
That sounds too low in price to be a compete manual unless it's a poor-quality copy reproduction. A genuine manual is around US$550 in paper form, US$300 in CD form. Welder Dave is correct that you need Cat Publication Number SENR7911. i think Dave's prices above may be in Canadian dollars. Here's an eBay link to a genuine Cat Service Manual that is somewhat more expensive (but way cheaper than a new one) and is obviously the genuine article from the photos. https://www.ebay.com/itm/CAT-Caterp...C-Tractor-Service-manual-/233206022303?_ul=AR
I don't know how to copy an entire thread but what I copied and pasted above is what you had provided to someone else with a 27Y D3B awhile ago. Not sure if it's US or Cad. dollars.
Oh, OK. I thought you'd been online today and got those numbers. I just went on the same site that your screen shot came from and got today's prices. The CD price has come down a bit, the paper version has gone up. Here's an image of today's prices. That paper Service Manual I found on eBay earlier @ $350 would be a good punt provided that it's complete. The problem with shipping paper manuals is the S&H costs. All in all I think the best option would be a brand-new CD version @ $303.
If it is being mailed in the USA and the shipper knows what they are doing price can be kept lower if sent as "Media Mail" I think a service manual would come under the description for that. The cost for that would be much lower than a simple flat rate box of engine parts of the same weight!
Possibly true Ken, but I saw one manual on eBay where the seller was quoting $50 S&H charges. The problem with eBay sellers is that as a buyr it's not usually possible to negotiate with them on S&H (it's how they minimize eBay's sellers commission). Let me see if I can find it - actually I found two..........both around $50 for S&H. https://www.ebay.com/itm/CATERPILLA...Lv5PairwiseWeb&_trksid=p2047675.c100012.m1985 https://www.ebay.com/itm/CAT-CATERP...R-CRAWLER-BOOK-REPAIR-SHOP-3204-/132521907131
Dave, It is quite easy to save an entire thread. I only know how to do it with a pc. It is done by going to the upper left corner of my computer screen and clicking on FILE. Then go to print and click on it. Multiple choices then come up to print it. I use Adobe Pro DC so I just select it and the .pdf is created on my desktop. The content looks different from what we see on the internet but it is all there. The image is one page that I just created with this method. I shrank the image down to 33.3% to show what it looks like.
Thanks Tinkerer.
I'm apoligize for temporarily highjacking this thread. I am sure many members would like to learn to save complete threads for future reference. That being said I have another program in my laptop that does a better job of saving threads than Adobe. It is called ApowerPDF. I am attaching a 5 page .pdf that I created using the same steps as in my previous post. click on the small image and if you have a .pdf reader installed in your computer all 5 pages can be read.
There’s also the simple option of doing a cut & paste of the link to the other thread. It’s then simply clickable from where you posted it and will open in a separate browser window. The advantage is that it appears in exactly the same format as the original thread because, well, that’s what it is. I tend to save links rather than threads, so unless the thread is ever deleted I can always get back to it. See below... HeavyEquipmentForums
I did copy and paste the link but it wouldn't copy your info on the left. I think it has in the past though. I wonder if it's because you had another link attached with the manuals info?
The link worked for me, Dave. Also copying and pasting it into the browser address bar works. The advantages of creating a .pdf of a thread is that there is no need for an an internet connection to read it and it can be put on thumb drive for a permanent record.
I never have posted as much wrong information as I did about converting webpages to a.pdf. After the .pdf is created I found that the document needs an internet connection to retrieve the pages to be able to print them. It works very much like a link to the same pages. The difference is that the .pdf is printable and a link only allows viewing them. I turned off my internet connection and all I view was page #1 in the document
After fixing the oil leak from oil pressure gauge. Dramatically the oil level keeps almost the same after 10hrs work. Since the last 10 hrs lost of 1 gal of oil. I am pretty sure it is not oil burn from engine. What I figure out is the oil pressure gauge connection has been leak for a while, all oil go away along with little oil pressure pipe Until the leak is some bad some oil drop to foot paddle. Also the smoke from blow is not that bad compare with before, is that possible when oil level is lower there is much more blow by? Btw. Somebody can send me the part number of the breather and premier pump? Thanks
GET A MECHANIC OUT TO CHECK YOUR MACHINE before it turns into a D6C.
Are these the parts you want numbers for?
Yes. Exactly what I want. Thanks
Hi, kshansen, would u mind sent the D3B track bolt and nut part number? Thanks in advance.