Got some very good info; from the last question I ask, now that I got the trans/shuttle unit full, I let it run(diesel) and warmed up, as it gets warmer it looses it trans pressure of 120,goes to 0 with clutch in, starts to go up when releasing clutch,only 120 or less a lot less. Tractor pulls fair and as temp goes up it hardly moves and will stop moving. When I looked at buying the tractor and it moved fair when cold but was sluggish. Can some one give me some directions to start checking. I put 90w in trans, and for now TS hyd/trans fluid just to see if the shuttle was going to work. I read a lot of the commits about the shuttle but didn't help on my problem. Thanks in advance.
Have you looked at this thread posted some here? It might give some help in determining whats up... HeavyEquipmentForums
Congratulations; almost everybody else has a hoe that won't move cold and then starts when it warms up. You get the other way! Oh the mysteries of oil and seals....
580b want move when warmed up. Thanks, your are mostly correct. I have to find out how to check the filter screen in the shuttle area, some say to pull the fuel tank and lines an remove the valve control and some say drill a 3/4 hole in the case at the bottom, looking for more info, Thanks Ron
Thanks for the info; yes I have and still looking, I am trying not to split this big tractor if I don't have to.I was checking the fluids this morning to see if the levels were ok and I needed to move the backhoe over to the left and a hyd hose broke going to the right swing cyl, so that's the next repair, hope I don't have to remove the backhoe . Any info is apreciated.Thanks Ron
Sharp the shuttle pressure should be between 170-190 when things are right and it will drop to 0 when you press the clutch ......How low was the shuttle oil and did you drain it all out before adding new if not you might consider doing that so if there is any crap in the torque tube hopefully it will get some of it out of there and it might be getting sucked up into the screen thats in the torque tube which feeds that shuttle pump......Just a thought Another thing to check is..... there is a shuttle oil filter located in front of the radiator in a housing have you changed that ????? My neighbors 580b wasnt moving good either and with his we drained the shuttle oil and i noticed when i was draining it that the oil wasnt draining normal it was surging like it was starving for air so i was thinking this surging might be a good thing to help pull any crud from the screen for the shuttle so i would rotate from the front to the rear plug draining it until it was empty....I will be looking at his vent for the shuttle to see if it is plugged this summer thats the only thing i could think of that would cause this surge to happen but if thats what happened it might be a good idea to plug that vent before draining it so it will surge like his did.....His works good now..... Keep us posted on your progress there are other things to check that dont require splitting the tractor but they do require some wrenching and a few choice words.....
Xpackdeals, yes sir, i drained the fluid and replaced it as well as the filter at the rad. I saw in one of the post that the filter/strainer in the shuttle unit might be stopped up and could drill a hole in the bottom of the case and clean it, I am not fond of that. can you get to it from the top? Also i got a new problem today,l was letting it run to check the fluids again, I had to swing the boom to the left and the hose from the swing cyl to the control busted, the control side is easy to remove, the cyl end I don't know how to remove that end.Any ideas, Thanks for all the information.
Sharp as far as the hose i dont remember how tight it is on the 580b but on the 580ck you can get to that hose it is a real pain but it can be done with the backhoe on the tractor.....If it is to tight to get at on the b i personally would try to swing the backhoe back to center and you will loose some oil doing it but after you get it centered back up with the tractor then you wont need to swing it anymore to remove the backhoe.........These really aint that bad to remove as long as your top pins arent rusted in all i do is use the hydraulics to loosen up the pins on the top links and remove them then use the stabilizers to raise the lower pins out of the lower frame once they have cleared the frame pull ahead with the main hydraulic lines still hooked to the backhoe just enough to be able to disconnect the main hoses shut the tractor off before you disconnect these hoses.....one disconnects at the tractor and one disconnects from the backhoe make sure that you reconnect the hose that you disconnected from the backhoe back to the tractor you should end up with a loop on the tractor otherwise it will be deadheading your oil and you can mess up the hyd pump if this loop isnt connected..... As far as drilling that hole i had thought about doing that to but after talking to Dale at tractorstuff i decided not to as he said he has seen where guys have done this and he thinks they have over tightened the plug causing cracks in the torque tube so i chose not to do that as i didnt want any problems with that...... Heres a thread that talks about removing the loader it gives some info on how that spacer pipe comes out of there starting around page 9 HeavyEquipmentForums I had to do this job when i first got mine and it is a job but very doable and i did read where one guy did this without removing the fuel tank but he also said it was a real job to do it that way......when i did mine i removed the tank which also meant i removed that spacer pipe between the loader tanks..... removing this spacer pipe is the biggest pita of the whole job in my opinion ........But it does sound like you need to get in there to see whats going on lets us know if you for sure are going to do this if you are we can give the details on how to get her apart.......... And heres the thread on mine i know theres info in here you may want to see ....somewhere in there is pics of that screen and how to remove that spacer pipe and the shuttle pump/screen teardown.... If you have any questions fire away we will try help you with it.... HeavyEquipmentForums
You might try removing the line going to the cooler and blowing back through it with compressed air. They are two lines. I think the one toward the front of the machine is the one coming from the pump. You will be blowing back through the pump so only a small amount of air will get through but it might dislodge some of the trash. The pick tube is one inch and the screen is tight on the end of it so it don't take much to stop it up. If you blow through and it improves the problem then you might want to blow through then drain and flush shuttle so screen will not get plugged again. If you do pull top cover the pickup tube is bolted to bottom of cover on the right front of cover right behind pump. The screen is soldered on. Take a torch and melt solder and take screen off. Then take a about a 4 inch round piece of door screen mushroom it out and use hose clamp to attach it to end of tube. That will give you a lot more surface area to get clogged up.
1972 csae 580b want move after warmed up. Thanks for all the help, will keep progress posted.
Thanks for the help will keep progress posted.
Glen you might be on to something with that good idea there are 2 lines that hook to that filter housing in front of the radiator and the book says you remove the top one and hook a pressure gauge on the filter housing to pressure test the shuttle pump so it must be the bottom one that comes from the pump .....so probably if this will work you would need to disconnect the bottom one and blow threw it what do you think ???????????