Hello. Bought this thing about ten years ago. I went over it pretty good. I used the crap out of it for 5 years and now really only use it 3-5 times a year. Machine is a diesel. Starts and runs fine. A couple small problems like power steering fluid leaking to a mystery place. Seems empty with no visible leaks. I did rebuild the cylinders and replace the hoses. Still no idea where the fluid is going. I change the oil, oil filter, oil bath, and shuttle filter each year. The shuttle filter, I believe is the filter in front of the radiator. I also change the fuel filter and drain the water trap. Soon after I bought the machine, I flipped it over. All of the fluids drained out, so I replaced them all. My question/problem now is that to move the tractor (technically it is a tractor with the backhoe attachment), I need to rev up the engine a little then it bangs when it moves. I have read about cleaning the suction tube on this model. I am guessing you would get to the suction tube by removing one of the two top covers near the shifter. Is it the one with the plug dipstick or the other one. Am I correct to just remove it and clean it out, then drain the shuttle from the bottom, refill it, then start it and move it around, then change the filter? I say change the filter last so if I stir up any more stuff, the old filter will trap it until I get it out then the new filter would be clean for longer? I think the shuttle had a drain plug on the bottom of it. If memory serves me it was the Case hydrostatic fluid that went in the shuttle. I forget the letters. Thanks for any advice.
most likely problem may be at the pump itself. We had a MF180 that this problem, and the 580B's use a simular pump. The reservoir seals against the pump with a rubber gasket (Maybe a o-ring?), so you can remove the entire reservoir to replace the filter. if you are losing fluid, and the cyilinders/hoses are not to blame, I would replace that gasket. how is the tourqe converter fluid level? It sounds like it may be low on fluid, or the shuttle pressure is low.
Leon, If you don't find the steering reservoir o-ring leaking, then replace the pump shaft seal. Only idea I have. I had a 580B once that lost shuttle pressure after I drove it up very steep float trailer ramps, to pull a machine off. The dash gauge started reading in the red at all times, in gear or out of gear, unless revved up. I nursed the machine that way for a month, not wanting to wear my clutch discs out. I had to remove the pump intake screen and clean it. It's under the cover, the forward cover, called an adapter plate. Not an easy job, and to get the tank off involves unscrewing the tank studs, and removing the rear rocker arm mount, under the valve cover. Once the adaptor plate is off you may be able to clean some of the debris laying on the bottom of the torque tube, including the hidden cavity just forward of the screen. This may be your problem. Oil used is TCH fluid, and it's just a guess but make sure you have the right oil in there. Shuttle pressure checks should be done first before a tear-down. Other maintenance should be done when you are in there, such as pump inspection and pump seal replacement. Upper shuttle valve gaskets must be correct for your machine serial #. Phil
Checked fluid level and it was fine. Drained the fluid. It was dark red/black. I will open the front adapter plate up tomorrow and see what I can see down in there. I will troll around for a photo of exactly what I am gonna have to take apart. I have a manual somewhere here, start looking.
I found my fluid at the handy 30 mile away Case dealer. $70 later, I changed the fluid and the filter. I removed the cover in front of the shift lever on the shuttle. All I saw was a set of clutches, so I am thinking I need to move forward to see the tube part. I am guessing it is under the valves for the shuttle. Has anyone ever tried to just remove the proper side of steel lines that come out the side and blowing air back through them to loosen the clog up then eventually the filter will trap the gunk? I started it up after buttoning it up. Forward was fine. Reverse banged a little, but not as bad. I tried to scan my 4o year old manual so I would have a digital copy. What a mess. Luckily the pages are all still intact. Also, when I run this, the green gauge on the right stays in the green until I rev it up good. Is that gauge for the hydraulics or for the shuttle. The gauge is next to the canister filter at the bucket controls.
Blowing through either line won't work. The gauge, if attached to the hydraulic filter assembly just in front of the cab, indicates filter condition. Phil
Phil, I have the setup similar to what you posted at , at #10. I am unsure how I would attach a pressure gauge to it. Would I eliminate the filter and then put the pressure gauge inline? Thanks for any help.
Leon, There are 3 different pressure checks. The first and most common is the clutch pressure check, and it verifies what your dash gauge is telling you. Connect your test line to the 1/8"NPT port where the dash gauge connects, just to the right of the shuttle vent. Reading should be between 170-190psi, engine warm, at 1500rpm, transmission in neutral, in forward or reverse. I like to see the same pressure at idle and if it it falls into the red, when cold or warm, in either gear, it's a sign of a problem. In neutral, in my experience, the gauge should be in the green at all times, when running. The shuttle oil pump check gives an indication of pump pressure, not as good as a flow test though, and if the pressure is low, check for a plugged oil filter, defective relief valve, line restriction, worn pump, air in the system, incorrect viscosity, or leaking gaskets. Disconnect the upper hose from the oil filter and install a test gauge in the filter housing. With the transmission in neutral and the clutch engaged, engine warm, at 600rpm, pressure should be 275-325psi. At 2250 rpm pressure should not exceed 500psi. The third test is the converter pressure check. Likely your machine is later than ser.#8314666, and has a 'converter charged in neutral circuit'. Remove the pipe plug located beside the converter temperature sending unit. With transmission in neutral, clutch engaged, engine warm, at 1500rpm, converter pressure should be 30-40 psi. Phil
Phil, I am a little confused to the areas where I would hook the hydraulic gauge to. These are photos of where the vent is on my tractor... http://lh6.ggpht.com/_FmjuAGQsedA/TLz7Cf3Qv6I/AAAAAAAAFSI/7SMaY1BQlV0/s800/100_1635.JPG and http://lh6.ggpht.com/_FmjuAGQsedA/TLz7CiHTgfI/AAAAAAAAFSM/0dAjd2dwqHc/s800/100_1637.JPG I cant make heads or tails out of the areas you want me to pressure check. Also a lead on where to buy a cheap tester for the hydraulic pressure would be appreciated. Thanks as always.
I can't see your line going to the dash gauge, doesn't even look like it's there.Here we have farm supply stores like TSC and Princess Auto that have some reasonably priced hydraulic components. Otherwise go to a hydraulic supply store. A 4' piece of 1/4" hydraulic hose with a 1/8"NPT male end, is what I prefer for testing, then put whatever adapter on it that you need. I'm not sure what the shuttle filter fitting is, might be a male 5/8"JIC thread. I like to get the liquid filled gauges. Attached some pics from my manual, the old Olympus isn't too clear. Let me know if you need a better pic. I don't often do the test at the shuttle filter, if I'm going to pull everything apart anyway. Phil
was able to scavenge everything but a gauge I need. $15 bucks and a couple days on ebay. Will keep you posted.
Phil, I have some news. Not sure what it means though. The first test came with the 1/8" npt fitting on the side of the valve assembly. I had 175 PSI at idle. I reved it up a little and it went to 170. Same results for all three; neutral, forward, and reverse. Next I went to the fittin on the top of the filter. I made it adapt to the 1/4"npt gauge I had. I fired the engine up and it went to 300+ psi. I reved it up a little and it went to 325. Looked good so far. Next I removed the allen plug near the temperature sensor. I put my hose in the hole. I then started it up. My psi was 5 psi. Same result in neutral, forward and reverse. I removed the gauge and then started it with the plug off. Some fluid did dribble out, but not a lot. Hopefully you are gonna tell me this goes to the suction tube. Hopefully. Thanks in advance for any help/guidance.
Most interesting. The last test you did for the converter charge pressure, may indicate a stuck converter regulator valve, or weak or broken spring. Remove the valve assembly(2 bolts) and disassemble it to make sure the spring loaded spool inside slides back and forth freely. I will get the spring specs for you. I recall the 'end' plug being hard to remove, and can't remember how I did this last time I had one apart, unless I spot welded something on the end to pull it out. You may need a new gasket(G46824) also. The converter temp sensor is missing in this picture. Melben, on the forum here, has had first hand experience with these shuttles and may add to this.Phil
I took it off and cleaned it up with purple degreaser. The inside was clean. I can press on the outside and it will compress about 1/4". I can slide the valve from the inside about 1/4". I was able to get the snap ring off, but that was the extent of it. I reassembled it and it did move better, but not best. I am guessing I will get back at it when I understand the best way to remove that plug. Having a replacement will also be necessary. There seems to be some sort of piece that keeps the plug in. Even shows it on the diagram as #6. I am guessing I need to somehow destroy it to clean the valve out completely. Thanks for the help Phil.
Been following along on this post....great advice. I have a CK unit about same vintage. That item #6 is an "O" ring that goes on the end plug. Should be able to pry (gently) the spool through the ports to push out the end plug out. Doesn't appear to travel all that much so 1/4 inch or so sounds about right. For the spring shown in my book the free length is 1.375 inches and 10 -12 lbs. pressure at a compressed length of 0.750 inch. Rest sounds good until you got to the converter pressure so if it's not the regulator valve you have internal leakage possibly at the torque converter itself.
That fitting next to the temp sender is to check convertor out back pressure which is determined by the regulator valve and oil flow through the return circuit from the convertor through the cooler if you have one and back to tank or sump. You have to have the engine revved up and the oil warm to get a true reading. This has nothing to do with clultch pressurel it only regulates pressure inside the convertor. low flow can be because of a worn pump or internal leakage in the convertor which will dump oil into the case drain and back to sump. If all else fails to get the plug out, drill and tap it for 1/8 in pipe fitting, screw a piece of 1/8 pipe in to pull the plug, then put a pipe plug in the hole with sealant.
To be a little more specific my manual states checking the converter pressure by installing gauge... 1. With the transmission in neutral, the clutch engaged, and the engine warm and operating at 1500 RPM, check converter pressure. Pressure must be 30 to 40 psi. 2. If pressure is low, check for proper clutch pressure, for leakage, or possible sticking of the converter pressure regulator ( yes, that is back pressure)
580 b ck strong in forward, won't hardly go in reverse I have recently purchaces a 580 b diesel, with power shuttle. It seems to be strong in all forward gears. But in reverse, when I got it it would not hardly go, it sits for a few minutes and tries to move just a little, then all of a sudden engages and starts backing up, with plenty of power. I changed the fluid and put a new filter, as there was no filter in the housing. After the change, it backed up but was on an incline and stopped when it started up hill instead of down, it will still back up after a few minutes of trying, and with power. I installed a pressure gauge betweet the metal line that goes to the valve, and the valve as the one in the dash was stripped and plugged. Its in the line closest to the rear of the tractor. In forward and nuetral it reads 175, but in reverse only 140. I imagine that some seal in the reverse side of the shuttle assembly is bad but i dont really know. I am thinking of removing the shuttle cover and placing a peice of glass over the hole to see if it is in fact leaking although it slings so much fluid i doubt ill be able to tell. Originally I belived the problem to be in the valve, which i removed, and took apart and inspected and in which I replaced the broken detent spring, from the valve traveling too far backward and the spring and ball poppint into the way of the valve travel. That had kept the valve from engaging reverse because the ball and spring were in the way. I belive the valve is working correctly now, though, although it is a valve from a 580 I think because of the number on it matching the case website parts catolog valve on a 580 and it being a lighter yellow color than the rest of this 580b . BUt the case place said it should work and it does, it just seems to take a while to engage reverse. Anyway thats all the info I can think of, Does anyone have an idea of what the problem might be? Seals? Clutches? A clog somewhere? I see a lot of people have a clogged pickup tube but it has plenty of power in forward so i doubt thats it, or its a weak pump or converter. Can anyone tell me what the problem might be?