Hi I have a problem with my loader backhoe. It won't go forward or backward. It was working fine the last time I used it. But I only use it once every couple of months. I read in the forum that it could be the filter for the power shuttle, that is up front on the left side behine the grill. But I removed the grill and there is no filter there and no lines. Can any one tell me where the filter could be for this old Case.
I would think if it's not there it's been removed with a loop hose installed at the valve or plugged. Are you sure it's a power shuttle and not a mechanical shuttle with two shift levers in the floor, having to push the left hand pedal with your foot to shift from forward to reverse with your left hand. You should have four gauges on the left side of the dash, the lower right should be the trans pressure gauge, does it read any pressure. Have you checked the oil level in the shuttle, dipstick in front of the gear shift lever, start engine and let run for a min, shut off engine and check the oil level on stick. If checking oil first is it real milky looking. Some machines you have to raise the rear wheels and place it in gear, wheels may start turning in both F/R while shifting. Have you drained the shuttle oil lately, there is a pickup tube in the sump that gets stopped up and needs attention, there is several posts on removing the pump and sump tube/strainer or to drill the lower trans torque case to make access to wash/clean it some. More will drop in on this post with time.
If yours is power shuttle and it no one has modified something heres a pic of what it should look like you can see the filter housing on the lower right hand side and the 2 hyd lines hooked to the housing you need to remove the 4 bolts on top and the filter is under the top plate.......
Yes the fluid looks good. That's on the floor in front of the gear shifter. To the right of the gear shifter on the floor is a high gear low gear shifter. And to go forward or backward the shifter is on the left side of the steering column and I have to push in the clutch on the floor. Up front where the filter should be there isn't any loop or capped lines, the way it looks I don't think there ever was a filter there.
any chance you can post some pics of your operating area like the shifter on the torque tube and the steering column also some pics of your shuttle valve (top of the torque tube area) neres a pic of the shuttle valve on mine.......
Yes we really need a pick of the rt hand bell housing, does your lt hand pedal have a long rod that goes down to a bell crank with a rod that goes to the bell housing?. I am thinking you have a mech shuttle.
View attachment 157000 First I would like to thank you guys for trying to help me out. It is very much appreciated. Here is a couple of pictures. One from the right side and one from the left side and one from the top, I hope this can help.
Yes we are a real hard bunch to get along with!!!!. But you helped so much with the pic's. You have a mech shuttle and your 2nd pick confirmed it. So lets try a clutch adjustment first. With the pedal all the way up you should have 1 1/4- 1 3/4 free travel. Always park in a area that if it gives out while a adjustment has been made you don't run thru the barn, shed, car etc. trying to stop it. Follow the rod down to the bell crank, it connects to a rod that has a clevis and locknut, loosen the locknut and adjust the rod length to get the 1 1/4- 1 3/4 free travel at the pedal, this is all you can do, or your riding the release bearing. If you can not meet this spec you may need to do a clutch job. You will not have a filter up front.
Couple more questions, does the gear shifter feel like its moving thru the gears, can you feel the detents when moving the h/l shifter, when you go from F/N/R can you feel the three spots and does the linkage in front of the gear shift move. With the rear tires off the ground can you turn the tires by hand. Does the engine try to stall when letting out on the clutch with its in gear and H/L in gear.
I dont know much about the mechanical shuttles but a couple of members on here have talked about theres and they sound to me like i personally would prefer one of them over the power shuttle as far as moving and digging .......The power shuttles are real doggy at best for moving ..........If the rest of the tractor justifies it i wouldnt hesitate to replace the clutch in it and i would think its not as complicated as the power shuttle like mine.........Good luck and keep us posted..........
Sometimes the Hi/Low shifter can get bumped into a neutral position and then the machine won't go forward or backward even though everything else is OK.
Well guys I had the tractor running today and I adjusted the clutch but it still won't move. I tried all the things sheepfoot said and the answer is yes to all the questions except the last one. That one is no. The tractor when in gear and I let the clutch out doesn't try to stall.
Here is a issue that may be causing what Grady has mentioned but with something mechanical broke causing it to go into neutral read this thread and if you pm 1968 case 580ck he might be able to help you........ HeavyEquipmentForums
Tractor not moving Xpackdeals posted a very good link to the area we may be visiting soon during this process to find the possible cause. I would pull the two bolt round cover on the side of the bell/tube and see if you can see the shaft inside, pull the stop cable for the engine fuel system and have a helper bump the starter and see if the shaft turns. You may also put a paint/chalk mark on the shaft, place a mirror between the loader frame and watch it from the seat if it can be seen. The areas in question, since you have free travel and can feel the pressure plate fingers when the pedal is pushed beyond the free travel you may have some clutch left but the shaft may stripped in the hub in the clutch disc, or the hub may be sheared (rivets) holding the hub to the plate causing the shaft not to turn. Next we need to pull both the four speed cover and then the high low cover. We will be looking at the shifter forks to see if they are worn thru, the set screw bolt that holds it to the shift rail is tight and in place, could be your feeling the detent but the rail is just sliding in the fork mount. You also have a half moon (woodruff) key that has sheered or worn out the groves. I would not try to start your machine with out the covers in place, but you may need to slide the gears to lock it up for more testing to see if its at the clutch end or F/R, H/L, four speed. The only other thing you can do is drain the gear lube from the plug at the end of the rear axle housing, it holds 5 gal., have 2, 5 gal bucket ready. Remove the inspection plate at the rear, with the wheels off the ground you can turn the bull gears, side gears, ring gear and see the pinion shaft. Is the shaft from clutch turning, is the f/r, h/l, 4 speed gear mesh holding, is the ring gear an pinion turning the carrier, etc. Keep us posted.
Yesterday when I was checking the tractor out and I had it in gear and the wheels off the ground and tractor running the wheels would turn a little bit and real slow. And I could stop the wheels real easy with my hand, both in forward and reverse.
That happened to me . I thought i broke something but it must of not been all the way in low range. It had me sweating a bit lol
Hi guys, I finally got a chance to get back to the tractor. I pulled the two bolt round cover on the side of bell. I put some white paint on the shaft and with the wheels off the ground and the tractor running and in gear the shaft is turning pretty fast.
I would pull the floor area over the 4 speed shifter cover and remove the shifter cover bolts and remove it. With the rear wheels off the ground and the gear moved into 4th try turning the rear wheels while watching inside the case for movement in the gears. If you have movement then pull the range cover and watch inside of it for movement. You are going to have to check it one section at a time. You can also drain the gear lube, around 5-6 gal from the plug at the rear end, remove the end plate and look inside at the side gears, bull gears, ring and pin for broken teeth or loose ring gear on the carrier. We are going to need to find out at what point it's not connecting.