Bought the machine last year. Made a concerted effort to start the engine last year, no success. Now I just want to get enough hydraulic pressure to raise the buckets so I can have it towed to my property. Can I crank the motor for a minute or so to get hydraulic pressure, then raise the buckets? Somehow I have to raise the buckets so I can pull the machine out of its tight storage spot, so it can be put on a transporter. Any tips would be greatly appreciated.
If the pump is in good shape you can get some minimal output while cranking. This will be slow at best. You need to pull the control lever, say the loader up control first and hold it, then crank the engine with the starter. IF the starter continues to spin the engine without too much dragging you can do this for about thirty seconds, then stop and let the starter cool for about five minutes. Repeat over and over. Best to connect a good charger or a set of jumpers to a running vehicle to keep the battery up. This is NOT really a good idea, but I have done things like this in the past. Tends to cook starters and battery cables, etc. Best thing if you simply can't get the engine to run at all, is to find something to lift the loader and/or backhoe boom if need be, like an excavator or boom truck, sling on, move the correct hydraulic control lever in the direction you want to go so the fluid can flow out of the cylinders, and then lift. When you get it a little higher than you need, neutralize the control lever, let down on your sling and it should, ahem, should, stay up.
Thank you, lantraxco. I will try cranking the motor this week.
Welcome to HEF tom10. :drinkup If you could manage to pluck the injectors out, that takes a lot of load off of the starter when cranking.
Good morning Willie, I am following up on your suggestion to remove the injectors before cranking. Attempting to post my first photo (on my thread) now. Regards, Tom
Following up on Willie59's suggestion regarding injectors. Now ready to remove first injector but not sure how to do that. Here is a photo of injector ready for removal. What do I do next? Thought I would ask the forum first, so I don't break something.
The first thing to do is reconnect the lines to that injector in the photo. Next clean off ALL the dirt and crap around all of the injectors. When you do take them out do what ever it takes to keep dirt from getting in the lines. Soak the injectors with PB Blaster or a penetrating oil that is as good as PB. You will need to twist them back and forth while putting an up force on them at the same time. I highly recommend using a lady's slipper bar to pry them up. If you don't have one or know what they look like here is photo of one. Thae are inexpensive and can be purchased just about anywhere tools are sold. Sometimes the injectors can be really hard to get out. Just keep squirting penetrating oil while twisting them. I have read where some folks rig up a slide hammer to extract them.
Thank you, Tinkerer. I will try extracting injectors this Saturday. I think what you're saying is to re-tighten the fuel return segments? Then work each injector a little at a time, extracting all injectors at the same time? Because the return rail segments between injectors can't be individually removed? I would have had to use excessive force to remove one of the three horizontal segments.
reread tinker post closely!! tinker saying reconnect lines to keep dirt out of lines and injectors,,clean ALL dirt up real good and then disconnect lines and extract injectors
After you get things squeaky clean, those return lines come off pretty easy. At the bottom of the tee, they're round but they're actually threaded hollow nuts just like on the horizontal legs, with a rubber grommet that clamps to the injector tube. Just unscrew them all with some decent pliers and the whole rail will lift off. I would suggest replacing all of the rubber grommets, I think they're two different sizes, the injector ones being a bit larger? Usually some of either the nuts or the tees or both will be stripped also. If you look at the bulge where the injector line meets the injector shaft you will see two slots machined into it, this is for a small special slide hammer tip that will slip into the grooves and with a few whacks of the slide hammer will either destroy the injector or shatter the tool. Oh, in some rare cases the injector pulls out, if this happens be patient and move on to the next injector. :Banghead
Yes, as lantraxco stated, those T fittings will thread off of the injectors to facilitate remove of T and crossover tubes, for sure replace all those rubber grommets, you can get them at any injection shop.
Excellent comments, thanks again. Will have a session with the backhoe tomorrow, then post results.
Some progress, as shown in photo. Liberal amounts of PB Blaster applied over a couple of days. Still, none of the injectors rotate in place. Will try to borrow/rent proper injector removal tool, and look for a tool like Tinkerer showed. Should I be removing the nut and clamp (shown in photo) too?
To wrap up this thread: After fussing with the injector nozzles, and attempting to obtain the proper removal tool without success, I decided to go to Plan C. I used a bottle jack and a come-along to raise the buckets high enough for transporting the backhoe. Photo attached. Thank you all for your suggestions. Looking forward to your comments in a future thread--when I get a chance to work on backhoe again.