hi all , new here and in a pinch. my hoe will not shift out of gear on the gear selector side. it is stuck in 3rd. when I shift the high low shifter it grinds and it is very difficult to get into neutral again. when I shift the forward \reverser into reverse it wants to stall the engine. it was very cold out when the trouble arose and I had just added TDH . smoke could be seen wafting out of the shifter boot. fixing this myself (with guidance) is my only option. please help as I have snow duties all winter.
TDH? Transmission Differential Hydraulic fluid? Kinda sounds like a clutch is coming apart, so it won't release to shift. How does it shift when the engine is off? Was the smoke wafting or any other problems before you added the fluid? The other possibilities are too horrible to consider at this early in the winter. If you're sure it's a 74 then we'd call it a straight 410, to avoid confusing it with a 410D built in the 90's. The d in the serial number is for Dubuque, or Davenport, or maybe Diesel, but it didn't come between the B's and the D's.
Yes its a 74. Says 410d on the s/n plate. There was not trouble before i added the tdh. But i doubt it was the cause of the trouble as it has been getting harder to shift..
Thanks for the reply btw.
Help us out here, I'm not familiar with this model, and the old JD expertise here is thinner than Case or Cat. Is this a 4 speed gear transmission, with a high low gear shift range, and a "powershift" reverser? And which shifter boot was the smoke coming out of. It seems like I read here that JD and Case's of this era had the same reversers, so if you can figure out the model, you can search the same problem on a Case, or ask another question about that model reverser.
yes thanks. the trans is 4 speed , shifter on the right . high and low on the left. forward and reverse lever on the dash. there is a wet clutch and a dry clutch. from recent research here the wet clutch is used to stop the machine with the brake. the dry clutch is only used to start it in cold weather. unfortunatley i have just learned the wet clutch doesnt need to be used to shift between forward and reverse. i have been useing the clutch to shift between forward and reverse for years. smoke was coming from the 4 speed side of the trans. i think i am going to be splitting this thing . i probabley have 150 hours, over 8 years, since i paid large to have both clutches rebuilt
Smoke coming from a gear transmission is not good, but you knew that. Have you drained the transmission oil? Use a clean white bucket so you can see what settles out. If you drain it all the way, fish around with a flexible magnet to see what kind of metal you can find. Is there any cover on the transmission that you can remove? I don't think you hurt anything using the wet clutch to shift, the forward/reverse does that automatically, you just slowed the process down a little.
ok thanks. the tdh is poured into the trans it uses the same oil for everything except engine. i think.? i will be able to worl on it after christmas. there is a large top cover and im close to removing the cab to get it off . thanks for the help. please stay tuned.
I've spent many hours splitting a straight 410. Split mine twice, so I would say I'm reasonably familiar with the reverser and the dry clutch. If the smoke occurred on startup, with the hoe not moving, the only parts involved in creating smoke would be in the reverser. The forward clutch drum engages the dry clutch splines and spins anytime the dry clutch is engaged. (Usually always). The trans fluid plump is operating. If the reverser is in neutral, that's really all that is turning and might create smoke. If it was really cold the forward clutch drum might be riding against the sealing ring in the reverser. The large ring that the forward drum sits in inside the reverser. Try pressing the clutch all the way down. Flip the metal stop on the clutch pedal and disengage the dry clutch. Then start the engine. Try engaging and disengaging the dry clutch several times. This will allow the drum to "float" a bit and keep it from grinding against the ring. There is no stop per say to keep the drum from moving forward and backward it just kind of sits in between dryclutch and the ring. The drum fits into the ring or bearing shown here. I learned an important lesson when reassembling mine. As a reward I got to tear her back down and replace that $100 ring. I'll help in anyway I can. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
i am interested what you did wrong,i have my 310a torn apart,have replaced the forward clutches and some sealing rings,but i just bolted mine back together,not knowing what could go wrong.i am working on the reverse brake right now,so if there is something that could cause a problem,i would greatly appreciate you telling me what to look for,thanks Steve
On my straight 410, the forward clutch drum has the splined shaft that engages the dry clutch. When I mated the reverser to the engine, the splines must have bound up slightly. It forced the fwd clutch drum backwards into the sealing ring. At start up, the shoulder on the drum was grinding on the seal ring. It threw metal into the sealing area and the fwd clutch pack did not get pressure. What I should have done was disengage the dry clutch several times while starting and allowed the fwd drum to float. Also make sure the splines for the dry clutch are well lubed. If you look at the shoulder near the two rings, you can see where it was grinding. It wasn't much but it was enough to throw shavings into the seal. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
thanks for the reply,i will be sure to watch out for the things you mentioned,thanks again.
first off thanks for the replies so far. i appreciate the time and skills shared to a new guy who only shows up when trouble arises. she started to smoke after a few minutes of moving around. it was very cold and i had the engine block heater plugged in. i should have let the the oil temp catch up with the engine temp a little before i started to drive it. im going to try your suggestions and get back. im fortunate that it happened right in the yard and i was able to use the hoe to push it under my lean-to , cold but dry place to work.
whats the full title for a manual that actually tells you how to repair? I have the army one and it is not that detailed . anyone have said manual for sale?
John Deere calls it a Service Manual. The one for your straight 410 is a TM1037 It comes in a printed book,CD,DVD,or can be downloaded. www.johndeeretechinfo.com
Thank you very much.