Here's the ad...have an appointment this week to put 'er to the test. Anybody have any thoughts on this or experience with these little fellers? Certain things to look for in particular on these models? '78 JOHN DEERE DOZER MODEL 450-C - 4 CYLINDER – 4 SPEED – 6 WAY BLADE, 23 G.P.M. PUMP CODE 1205, 65 SAE NET HP, AT-33975 QUICK COUPLERS RIPPERS, SINGLE LEVER CONTROLS FOR ALL DOZER FUNCTIONS, ROLL OVER PROTECTIVE STRUCTURE, GREAT FOR SMALL LOGGING, FIRE SUPPRESSION OR ROAD BUILDING, $9,900.00 My big dozer work is done, so I need a good maintainance dozer to have at the place. The owner says it is a sound machine, and would not hesitate to sell it to friends or family. :beatsme Thanks ya'll!
I have one of these and dearly love it. Try out the shifting from hi to lo and also from hi to reverse while moving. It does not require a clutch to change directions. lot of power in a small package. rick
THANK YOU for your input! This is supposed to be a second owner rig, with low hours, seems to be just what I need at the right price. Anyone else with any thoughts?
There is a special site called JD Crawlers.Visit there for info & advice. Jim
great little crawlers. One area to look at is where the wishbone conects to the track frames, sometimes those bolts can be broke. They are known for the neutral saftey switch to be finiky and make to jiggle the HLR lever to start it. Other than that a very good little crawler. thats a 450c loader of mine in the pic.
Awesome! Thanks for the heads-up!
I'll check those out. Thanks for the info! Glad to hear no horror stories so far about "bad transmissions", "steering failures", etc! Are they easy to maintain...filter access, drain plugs, etc?
http://www.deere.com/en_US/cfd/construction/deere_const/media/non_current_pdfs/noncurrent_crawlers/450B.pdf http://www.deere.com/en_US/cfd/construction/deere_const/media/non_current_pdfs/noncurrent_dozers/450C.pdf This refers to what JD thinks goes wrong with them. http://www.roscommonequipmentcenter.com/news_notes/nn6.pdf
anyone have pics how to replacxe drive clutch
If you are talking about the conventional pressure plate clutch between the engine and transmission you pull the radiator shell complete with radiator, and pull the engine. Than go at it in the normal way, resurface flywheel, new clutch bearing, new pressure plate, check everything you can inspect and put it back together. THe hydraulic oil must be drained as the pump is mounted in the radiator housing in front of the radiator. short driveshaft front of engine crankshaft drives. Good time to replace that also if it shows wear. Check the hydraulic oil supply lines from the reservoir to the pump and go at those if they are suspect. Those are prone to leaks and a real bit-- to change. Best is to get an tech manual if you are going to tackle this job. In my experience these machines are not thought out very well when it comes to the poor guy that has to work on them.
****, NO NO NO, they are not easy to maintain. Filters, plugs, addition of oil are a real BIT--!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! The Deere service techs will reinforce my opinion.
no i was asking about the steering clutches but thank you for the reply
steering clutches. OH BOY!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! You have to pull the platform with the fuel tank, hydraulic tank, battery box, ROPS canopy. That is a real nightmare to do. Unless you are really laid back you will use lots an lots of adult words and maybe even invent a few new ones. That gets you at the steering clutch housing cover. I have been inside the compartment but have not had to pull the clutches. Get a tech manual. These clutches can be adjusted externally if needed.
is it really that tough greg got me thinking uh oh now