Greetings, I am new to this website and am a potential owner of a 1979 Case 580C backhoe. I am considering purchasing the backhoe and was told by the owner I needed to get it running for him before he would consider selling it to me. Sounds like he's trying to protect my from buying something that does not run. It's been sitting for 5-7 years without being started. I replaced a battery, checked the trans fluid, radiator fluid, and engine oil. I was able to start it right up. At first I was checking the trans fluid incorrectly without the engine running. I thought it was full but when the rear wheels would not turn I realized it needed hydraulic transmission fluid which I purchased at a CASE dealership. The right rear tire was not turning and had power, digging in in 1st gear. The left tire was locked up. I tried freeing up the left brake arm by tapping on it with a hammer. I tried moving it and it worked. I shut it off, moved some stuff out of the way so I could move it forward and when I tried to it would not move very far forward. Backwards no problem. Then just like that there was not more forward or reverse in that left rear wheel. Does anyone have any idea what might be wrong with it?
Brakes locking up are common on those. you know you have brake problems already, that's the obvious answer.
Thanks, I was not aware of the common brake issue. I called a local CASE dealership service department and was told it's probably the differential. They quoted possibly 80 hours of labor at $120 per hour to repair it. There is no way this machine is worth that much. My next step is to remove the floor plate for better access to the brakes, spray some penetrating oil on it and hammer a little more on that left brake. I appreciate your reply.
The C has kind of a phony brake system. They have steel balls that ramp up when you use the brake. I bet their just stuck up, their known to put you threw the windshield when roading it.
Don’t take it to the dealer unless it comes with a barrel to bend over on and a jar of Vaseline. There is more than enough tech advise here to troubleshoot and repair your issue if you are willing to put in the labor and get your hands dirty.
How much is this backhoe? It would help to know what you can buy it for to determine whether it’s worth it.
those early backhoes borrowed a lot of parts from tractors, I bet this is one, the brakes on tractors that age were great, compared to the brakes on 20 year old tractors at the time, but they weren't expected to start and stop like a backhoe, and 40 years later, well, they just don't build em like they used to Lift the wheels off the ground with the stabilizers and see which way the wheels work and don't. DO NOT TOUCH THE DIFFERENTIAL LOCK WHEN ANY WHEEL IS MOVING. If the owner says it drove fine when parked, then it didn't break sitting in his yard. The brakes locking up can get worse sitting. The only thing that would break it fast, is that diff lock. The it should destroy the lock only. Where are you located? do you know somebody to look at it for you? an old backhoe is a PROJECT, maybe even a money pit. The purchase price is almost irrelevant compared to the work you're going to put into keeping it going for the time you own it, especially if you like to fix the "little things".
Try lifting the rear wheels off the ground with the stabilizers and with the rear wheels stopped engage the differential lock(it will be the round pedal in the floor pan directly below the fuel pedal) see if the wheels spin,,DO NOT ENGAGE THE PEDAL WITH THE WHEELS SPINNING or serious damage WILL occur..Before you even try the diff thing see if you can spin the wheel by hand in the elevated position...When I bought my C both brakes were stuck from sitting and it would barely move, I lubed the crap out of both sides and backed off the adjusters on top of the brake levers, just make sure to block your wheels so you don't run yourself over if something breaks loose while you're underneath it,also make sure the e- brake and cable/linkage is released completely...Does current owner remember any non moving issues ? Stay away from the dealer, I think if it was a differential issue you would will hear some kind of clunking or other racket while spinning your rear wheels even by hand...
Wow, Thank you ALL for the feedback. I had no idea I would receive this much help in diagnosing the problem. I am encouraged.
Definitely willing to work on it.
This old timer, is a retired farmer. This 1979 CASE 580C does not have the backhoe attachment, instead it has a counter weight, I'm guessing 4500 lbs. I'm not sure it he's just using me, maybe so, I hope not. To answer your question, currently there is no price point. I offered him $1,000.
Currently there is no price point and there is no backhoe attachment. I offered him $1,000 and he is considering it, check comments above. I'm located in Whitewater, WI. If it the brakes I think I can replace them both by myself. I don't mind projects like that being retired. Currently it appears you guys are my best source of information. I've learned so much here. I hope to keep everyone posted that contributed there help on the final outcome. Thanks again.
What are you going to do with a backhoe that's missing it's backhoe? Joe H
Thank you, currently I cannot lift the wheels off the ground. It's good to know about the differential lock operation. I'll post here the progress. At lease I was able to get it started after it was sitting from 5-7 years.
I have 40 acres up north in Wisconsin I use for hunting. I could use it for snow removal, making trails, moving 40-50 dump trucks of dirt/gravel that the township dumped on my property at my request. Maybe even teach the grand kids someday how to operated that huge bucket.
Welcome to HEF, RETIREDCASE580C ! Although you said in your first post you were considering purchasing a backhoe, it caused a small amount of confusion. The machine is a loader tractor if it has counterweight on it. Click on the following link for the service manual ---> https://cdn.minnpar.com/partbooks/C...MANUAL/Case 580CK Series C Service Manual.pdf Click on this one for the CNH online parts manual ----> https://www.mycnhistore.com/us/en/c...ckhoe/cn/BED06496-EFBE-E111-9FCE-005056875BD6
Amazing, I had no idea even after looking around the internet for quite some time. I just assumed it was a backhoe missing the attachment. I'm putting up a YouTube video at www.deputypost.com today of just me getting it started. I'm sure if you watched it you would realized I don't know very much about what I'm doing. Thanks for the website info, I'll be going there now.
I'd say you're a little low and a little light. Best I found it weighs 11,500#, don't know if that's with or without the weights. If the seller was asking, I'd say to get somebody to put it in an online auction, and guess it would bring between $3-5,000. Crazy, yes. Like I said, it could be not worth it even if it was given away.
4-16-22 UPDATE......... I have been told by the owner that he spoke to a small municipality mechanic friend of his that has worked on the CASE 580 series loaders and backhoes. He is saying that there is a hydraulic filter on the transmission that if it becomes plugged it can somehow apply a brake to a wheel. Question #1: Is that possible? I am seeing a "Hyd Filter" light on the dashboard. The manual states that could also be because the hydraulic fluid is not warm enough. Question #2: It's been recommended to me by a few people that I should try pulling the CASE 580C forward using another tractor to possibly break the left brake free. Can I damage something doing that?
#1 No. Hyd on the Case 580C: Pump on the front of the engine to lift the bucket and the to run the hoe. (missing) Filled on the left side next to the sight gage. Steering pump on the right side front of the motor. Line go to a valve at the end of the steering wheel shaft and back to the two actuators on the front end. Cap has a dip stick. Shuttle transmission, pump is inside and the hyd doesn't leave it unless it is leaking. Dip stick on right side with a t handle that is spun to tighten it, Checked when running The four speed / axle is a gear box and is lubed as the gears pass though the oil (no pump) and again it doesn't come out unless it is leaking. Dip stick on though the floor of the cab next to the breather. Note on the axle oil. People drive these though rivers where I live. The four speed/axle will get water in them but it goes to the bottom. opening the drain bolt on the bottom of the four speed /axle will get the water out followed by oil, unless mixed into a brown milkshake. The brakes on a 580C is two master cylinders, two slaves and a drum that expands due to four balls on ramps pressing pads outward where they drag(can't say stop) and slow the 580C. The shaft comes out of the axle housing forward of the axle to the wheel on each side. #2 Before doing all that... There should be a lever or plunger just behind the gas pedal on the floor. This is the diff lock. Without giving it gas and in gear step on it. You will feel it when it engages. That locks the to axles together. The brake pads are not hard to get at, just heavy. When you pull the floor, you'll see them on each side of the four speed/ axle. 3 bolts and one nut on the left. I find using a wooden pallet to lay on is helpful. Sorry your not closer or i would come over and give you a hand.
If it is a bound up brake that is the cause of the wheel not turning, pulling the machine with another tractor is not likely to damage anything . The tire will most likely just slide.
Thanks for all the info! I really appreciate you taking the time to share your knowledge on the subject. I will be trying to pull it tomorrow with a larger tractor and will do as you said engaging the differential lock. That lever or plunger was stuck down for awhile when I was working on it before. I had to try freeing it up with penetrating oil and forcing it back up. I understand the concept though, "Not under power while engaging". Thanks again I keep you posted. I don't really like plugging my YouTube channel on the HEF website but, I just found out yesterday the owner of the loader finally gave me a price, $1,000. If you have time to check out my video please let me know if you think I did okay in purchasing it for that price. Thanks, www.deputypost.com
Thanks for the reply, I am going to try it tomorrow weather permitting.
I watched you youtube. Video 1 1. On the left frame the plug with the sight gage. Pull the plug and put in a 90 deg and cap from your local Lowes. It will make it easier to fil. It say hyd fluid above it. 2. What you say is hyd (5:00) with the T handle is shuttle transmission check with it running. 3. Steering and oil you got right. 4. Shut off is a pull to kill, it cuts of fuel at the injector pump. 5. You should also look at the air filter. Mice love them. 6. On the left side of the steering column there is a level that is fwd/rev and center in neutral. There is a neutral safety sw. on this. Detent id neutral. 7. Get a old metal coffee can for the exhaust pipe. Keeps the water out of the motor. Video 2 1. Filter is in front of the fuel tank up high. Poke your head up inside and you'll see it. 2. There is not an overflow o 3. 6:10 fwd/neutral/ rev you got it right 4. Pedals on the left of the column, Right and left brake. Right of the column Both brakes and gas 5. The column right is gas like the gas pedal. 6. Y.ou got the bucket. Up down tilt up and down is side to side 7. You got the 4 speed right. 8. The hyd is a differential pressure stitch, the bucket stiff not the move the 580C stuff It looks like you figured out most of what I put here but it will help give you a warm fuzzy. Floor removal Remove the four bolts on the seat base. Then the rest of the floor bolts. I think you also have to disconnect the diff lock. my floor has a cut out I just got to the part you got it moving!!! and now the part its not moving. hahah Keep in mind I going from what I see in the video: *** I would say the springs that returns the brake to normal are broken. As you move forward the balls are rolling up the ramps and applying the brake. Going backwards it rolls the balls back down the ramp and releases the brake. or The link that pulls up on the outer pads is broken and binding on the inside and setting a brake.*** Ether way, The fix Unbolt the covers and go to it. Below are what the big pars are. the arrows are the springs and where the rollers sit. If you only need a loader, 1K is good if you can get it move. Over all it looks to be in great condition. Look over the cylinders for leaks. They are easy to fix but you might get it cheaper. If you need to talk though how to get into the brakes, pm me on this site or hit me up on my web site via message there. https://thisisjust4fun.weebly.com/leave-me-at-note.html
Outlawspeeder, thanks for putting in all the extra effort. We pulled it forward yesterday and got the left wheel moving again. I was able to drive it 1.5 miles back to my house. I'm starting to remove the floor one rusted bolt at a time, already snapped one off. I was afraid that if I used the brakes on the way home, I might of been stuck in the middle of the road with a locked up wheel again. I found the hyd fluid filter canister and changed the filter. What a mess that was, hyd fluid everywhere. There were two 6 volt batteries in the loader that were N/G. I'm using a regular 12 volt car battery now that does not fit the configuration of the clamp down mount. I need to purchase another battery. What do you recommend, a single 12 volt battery then modify the clamp down mount or, two six volt connected in a 12 volt configuration? I'd be grateful to hear your thoughts. Thanks
In all my years I have never pulled the floorboard to get the brakes off a C, park brake linkage pins complicate things a little but small vice grips and side cutters to pull cotter pins and penetrating oil do wonders
I do believe Tinkerer provided the link to the manuals....Reading really is fundamental...
I put a normal 12 volt in mine. Drilled two holes on each side of it. All thread up to a flat 3/4 wide across the top to hold it in place. You can get to the brakes from below. Pulling the floor will make it easer for old guys like me to have someone above help lift the brake cover. When you get into them, post some photos. I would like to know what was going on. Also if you've never work on something this large, some of the parts are really heavy. Your bucket has a safety on the side. If the bucket is not on the ground, lift the bucket and put the safety in place. The other thing I've found is that the 580 going to start getting small and you will forget it weighs in at 7,000 pounds. Be careful.
If you don't mind laying underneath the tractor and handling the heavy brake components, it would be faster. I have a 480C, the 580C's little brother but from what I understand they are basically the same. I pulled my floor, it was a pain. I had to pull the cabin heater, mess with the throttle pedal and take out the seat. You can see what's going on after you bolt the seat back in without the floor and drive it. I found I had several problems, but corrosion was the main problem. Part of my sticking problem was the hand brake. All the components were corroded and froze, so when you released the hand brake it would not fully release the brakes. You can see this and how it works once you get the floor out and you can put penetrate on it and get it freed up. Another problem I had was leaking wheel cylinders. Instead of getting new ones I just rebuilt the ones I had, there is nothing in there but a o-ring. But I didn't have the correct size o-ring so I stuffed one in there that is a little tight, and it was contributing to the brakes sticking also. It's wearing in now after a year or two of use, and the brakes don't stick like they used to. I recommend just buying some wheel cylinders if you need some, they are not too expensive.
Hey Guys, Here is an update. I changed the Hyd Filter, replaced the sight glass, the key switch, the battery and plexiglass in the instrument panel. So far I added 1 gallon of hyd transmission fluid and 4 gals of hyd ram fluid, all of which needed to be done. I'm going to replace the brake master cylinders, slave cylinders and both brakes soon. I am going to remove the floor and the dashboard in doing this. I've been blessed hearing from y'all, thanks for the safety tips. P.s. I downloaded the manual, printed it, punched holes in it and placed it in a binder.
Any suggestions on where to purchase brake parts online?
Call Dale Wiess. He is a human encyclopedia of anything Case. http://e-backhoeparts.com/
The links I add above?
I buy most of my parts off ebay. A lot of these tractor places the other guys list sell on ebay.