I need to change the V-belt on my 1980 JD 410 backhoe. Can anyone tell me an easy way to disconnect the hydraulic pump drive coupling from the crankshaft pulley? My alternator is pulled all the way to the max and the V-belt is still too loose. Any help is really appreciated!
Based on other JD's and Jdparts.com. If you have the rubber donut gear between two aluminum couplers, then loosen the bolts that clamp the coupler onto the HYDRAULIC PUMP shaft, and slide the coupler forward on the shaft so the belt will fit between the aluminum pieces. Replace that rubber disc part while you have it out. The disk and the two belts were only about $50 at the dealer.
Mine only has one belt on it. It looks like the radiator has to come out to get at the bolts.
Sorry, I'm not familiar with that model, and there was a serial number break on JD parts, plus there exploded views don't show unrelated parts. So if you don't see a rubber disc sandwiched between two 6" or so diameter couplers, then you might have another design. If you do have that coupler setup, then the piece that is bolted to the crankshaft is the last piece that will come off, after the hydraulic pump, and front half of the coupler. BTW, if you're pulling the radiator, you might consider replacing the front crankshaft seal while you're in there, mine had the slightest drip, but the spring had worn through the seal and was gouging the crank pulley, so I had to use a speedisleave.
It's been many yrs since I worked on a 410 but I know I've never removed the radiator to change the belt.
There are two 9/16" head bolts holding the coupling to the crankshaft pulley. I can not imagine what kind of wrench arrangemant I need to loosen there bolts without removing something. It liiks like there is a spacer between the crank pulley and the forward drive disc that needs to come out to get a v-belt to pass through it. I don't see any other way. Any ideas are certainly welcome!
Sometimes you just gotta start pulling all the other junk out of the way. Production costs/speed of assembly is what the OEM is mainly concerned with. Service accessibility, especially when it's out of warranty, not so much. Take a look thru some of the online tool catalogs, there might be something in there that would work; if there is some weird situation, somebody probably made a tool for it.
I saw an adjustable v belt at an Ag show a few months back called Accu-Link Adjustable Link V-Belts. I have not tried it so have no idea if it would hold up. My first impression was that it would be good in an emergency or for temporary use, but the salesman said it could be used for long term. It comes apart so you don't have to disassemble anything to put it on. Perhaps someone here at HEF has tried this type of belt and could give some hands on advice.
That sounds right, but you won't get that coupling off the crankshaft pulley with the other stuff in the way. You want to loosen the driveshaft that clamps onto the hydraulic pump shaft, then the driveshaft and "forward drive disc" should slide forward allowing you to remove the rubber bushing between the couplers and get the new belt through there. Again, definitely replace that spacer and if you pull the radiator definitely do the front oil seal also. Sorry, I can't say for sure what you have room for, but it definitely sounds like that is the same style.
Yair . . . chroniekon . I have been using these for many years and have yet to have a failure . . . a mate uses them for all belts on a Landrover. http://www.fennerdrives.com/nutlink/_/NuTLink-B/17/5L/ They are really good when building new machinery as it gives some come and go with shaft centres . . . very handy when you are working way out in the sticks. Some European farm machinery is designed around them . . . there is no provision for adjustment on standard belts . . . but they are expensive. Cheers.