HELP! I recently rebuild the power shuttle, complete kit with new pump from Broken Tractor. Torque Converter was rebuilt by precision TC in Iowa. Major issue was the forward plates and the Bellevue washer was broken. Not much debris in the pan, flushed the cooler. I put about 10 hours on the machine moving snow, temps stayed in the green. Parked in inside to thaw out and then moved it outside, sat for 3 weeks and now will not move. I finally got it in the shop, removed the cutout solenoid and it seems like the plunger is sticking out where it should be. Pressure tested the top port and NO pressure.....? Where do I go from here?
Man, that sucks. Think maybe the charge pump took a dump? Nice paint job! I would start with the clutch cut out solenoid because anything else means some heavy lifting. Its really the only thing that would kill the pressure as that is its job.
A new pump failing..... does that even happen...? and yeah that really sucks. I dont remember if there was a name on the pump, probaly of asian origin
I don’t know, let you know by Monday when my non-branded China dive motor moves or doesn’t in my rebuilt skid steer. Good luck.. You have no pressure from a bad gauge or hook up, a bad pump or an electric clutch solenoid. What about if your pick up tube fell down an inch in the pan, because that’s about as far as it could fall?
With the cut-out solenoid removed, depress the plunger (with engine off). There should be a second spring loaded resistence about half way down the depress action. If you can't feel the second resistence, there is a small plunger that is stuck inside the spool - that is the neutral dump valve. Sometimes it will free up by giving the plunger a few sharp taps. If it doesn't free up you need to remove the control valve & dismantle & clean it. Was a new/reco torque convertor fitted? Was it at least drained & flushed? Was the oil cooler flushed with diesel/kero using a 20lt drum pump & then primed with clean oil? There likely is some trash still in the system that has bound up the dump valve in the control spool valve. EDIT - The 4 speed shifter is in gear?........ don't laugh, seen it many times.......
HH, good thought on the pickup, that would be simple. 300 psi gauge checks out ok on air pressure. Airman, it is in gear..! TC was rebuilt, cooler was flushed. In disassembly it was very clean internally. I had the spool out last year to replace a seal. I will check the the resistance on the plunger. Thanks!
Have had to send pumps back as they would be locked down after bolting to assembly.
With the solenoid removed I can push the plunger in, you can feel the second spring, it moves easily. I dont think the problem is on the control valve. I drained the oil and removed the sump pan, pickup screen/tube was in place and relatively clean.
The oil was Case Hy Tran fluid, with 6 hours on it. It did not look very good, hard to get a good photo but it has a lot of metal in in, some magnetic. but plenty of coppery color as well.
I then drained the TC, that fluid had better color, still some metal. It appears I will have to remove transmission. I am thinking I can leave the TC / flywheel / flexplate and housing in place, which would be great. I am assuming since I did not have any pressure that the issue is the pump, I also assume I can tear the pump down and verify? My concern is all the fluid that has circulated through the transmission, bearings , bushings etc. In other words, do I need to tear the whole transmission down or can I replace the pump and then flush it several times to get the debris out? I did flush the cooler with fresh ATF when I had it down. And the original fluid did not have any metal in it, or it was minor enough I didn't give it much thought. It was pretty clean and I had changed the fluid the previous season when I first got the machine, the pan was clean both times. Am I missing something....?
Nope but if it were me I would be standing that shuttle on end a trying to dump some diesel fuel down through it. Trying to remember when I had my shuttle out, how I would go about cleaning all of it. I just took it all apart. I think you could flush all the plates and springs with diesel but … meh man I don’t know. I suppose I would crack the pump open and see if that’s what it is, then I’d call Broken Tractor or wherever you got that pump from and give them an ear ful. Did you have to shim the packs at all or did you re-use what was in there. There was 2 specs for it in the manual, if I recall. Think it was a thick and a thin shim ring.
There was a selection of shims that are included in the kit. I don't recall the numbers. I followed the specs in the book and was in the range that was speced. To my understanding these are pretty robust. I may have made a mistake, hopefully I can identify the issue when I get it apart. At this point I am suspecting the pump due to lack of pressure.
Pump failure, drive gear has come apart where it engages with the TC. My guess is the bushing seized on the shaft and then the ears on the drive gear came apart.
TC looks ok... hard to say, I will see how the old pump fits on the TC. So far it looks pretty clean inside, no doubt metal has circulated throughout the unit. I did check the TC with a dial indicator to check runout, I dont recall the numbers but it was within spec in the book. I guess I will check with Precision Torque Converters and see what they have to say.
I have a call into Broken Tractor to see what they will do for me.
It does look as if the tangs were not aligned correctly. Did it go all the way in, by hand? - The shuttle housing should meet/touch the bell housing adapter plate without the use of bolts. It's a common issue for the uninitiated. I would be surprised if they gave you another pump....
It was on a tranny jack and we slid it in by hand, we had to wiggle it and may have rotated the TC slightly. Did not draw the PS to the housing with bolts. The drive tabs on the new gear are not the same as the original. I do hope you are surprised.
Misalignment is common on these when you have little experience
Do you think I could have forced the PS and the housing together by hand?
Meh, I thought the tabs looked good. Might need some better pictures and that is a common problem, putting it back together but again, in the pictures, the tabs looked good.
Looks like one of the pump gears seized up.From heat or mid-alignment, not sure.
There is just the one gear in the pump that meshes with the outer ring gear, the teeth on both are in fine shape. The tabs and the way they were attached do not like right to my eye. It also appears as if they were welded on......! The original gear is definitely made differently. I will have to find out who makes this pump as it appears to be the main one that is available.
last one is the old gear