Intermittent electrical issue Machine started to randomly not start, and now when it does start it seems to stall after a few minutes of use and I lose all power. Sometimes you wait a few minutes or a few hours and you turn the key and there’s juice again. When i turn the key nothing hapoens Batteries are both around 12.7 volts Good voltage at ignition Good voltage at starter Good voltage at alternator Good voltage on load side of the 40 amp circuit breaker 0 ohms from negative battery lead to frame 0 ohms from engine block to frame When jumping positive to starter the engine will turn over but it will not start Looking for some advice, thank you
Sounds like that circuit breaker is bad.
You cannot ohm meter test a battery cable other than to tell if you have a path from one end to another. If the cable has 100 strands and 99 are broken it will still ohm meter test perfect but nothing will run. #1 - If you put your multimeter on DC volts and stab the starter body on clean steel or stab the frame on clean steel with the positive test lead and stab the dead center of the Negative Battery post that is closest to the frame strap and have someone turn the key to start and hold it there for 5-8 seconds. This will measure loss of potential and any reading over 0.5 volts indicates the cable or master switch is defective ( burn't out or green internally, high resistance ) #2 - Put the Red test lead on the dead center of the positive post of battery that feeds starter through the red cable, Then stab the dead center of the positive post of the starter solenoid ( Large red cable connection ), while having someone try to start and hold it there for 5-8 seconds. Any reading over 0.7-0.8 volts DC means bad cable or connection.. #3 - Stab dead center of Battery Positive post with Red test lead and stab the battery terminal of the key switch with black test lead while flowing some current like fans and lights. Any reading over 0.5 volts is bad connections or cable itself. #4 - Stab dead center of Battery terminal of key switch with Red Test lead and stab the Ignition terminal of Key switch with the black test lead while flowing current like in post #3 above. Any reading of more than 0.3 Volts DC while holding the key in the first click over means switch is burn't internally. #5 - Same test as #4 but put negative lead on Accessory terminal of key while flowing current with lights and fans on. Key is to be in 1st position to the right. Any reading over 0.3 volts means that part of key switch is burn't out. Might be an idea to take a picture of these instructions to bring with you and report back what you found. There is a few more tests to do but start with this. Don't be firing the parts cannon without doing these simple tests first. Simon C
Issue is need up being a corroded pin in the 8 pin connector located under your right foot if you were sitting in the cab
Not sure what your asking , is it how to repair the connector. Do you have a schematic for this unit. Simon C
Sorry typo in there. I believe I fixed it, inside the 8 pin connector there was a corroded pin so I jumped it out and all seems to be working properly now. It was very tough to get to, probably would have jumped out all the pins if it wasn’t so difficult to access. Here’s a pic for reference
Just for your info, whenever I put plugs like that together I spray them with Lloyds Moovit or Deep Creep to prevent corrosion. If you drive in dust after the plug will get dirty but never green inside. I dont use Die Electric Grease on these kinds of connections as it is actually an insolator not a conductor. I see you would have repaired the bad pins by by-passing it , which works, and if done right can last till the end of the machine. Glad you got it figured out. Simon C