New to the forum and first post. Looking for any info on rebuild kits for the A336BDT Case engine. Anyone with a recommendation on where to buy the parts? The machine is new-to-me. I haven't gotten the numbers off of it yet but will have them soon if it makes a difference. I bought the machine with a spun bearing and still have to have it moved home. It doesn't run so moving it is going to be a project but nothing I feel I can't manage. I am also looking for any specs on the machine, along with service manuals and parts manuals. Thank you all in advance for the help and for a great forum. Jason
For parts Dale Wiess has better prices than most vendors and he is a wealth of Case knowledge. http://www.e-backhoeparts.com/ Your 336 engine is the same as a 301 other than the larger cylinder bore. What specs. do you need ? You really need the service manual for the machine. They are not cheap but worth their weight in gold. Case has an online parts book for your machine, but if you want to download the entire parts book use this link. http://www.minnpar.com/partbooks/BA... 780/CASE 780 LOADER BACKHOE (COMPRESSED).pdf I have the engine service manual somewhere in one of my computers in .pdf format. PM me your email address and I will try to send it to you. I may have to put it in a zip file.
Thank you for the quick reply! My email is jason.m.swett at gmail dot com If you have that service manual that would be awesome! I know I can't rebuild the engine without it. I'll check out that website when I get out of work and hopefully by then I'll get the numbers off the machine so I can start ordering some parts. Thank you so much again. Have a great day! Jason
The manual is on its way. It will take a while to download because I didn't compress it to a zip file. Also, depending on how severe the damage is to the crankshaft in your engine you want to consider getting a used engine. Those 336BDT's were used in many thousands of Case Farm and industrial tractors. There are a lot of them available in farm machinery salvage yards at decent prices. This engine service manual also has the specifications for the 267 and 401 engines in it.
Thank you Tinkerer! Moat of the specs I was looking for are in the service manual you sent me. The next issue I've come across is figuring out the engine serial number. It seems the plate that would normally hold the number is missing off the engine. So I'm thinking I can't order parts until I open up the engine. From what i have been reading, there are two different 336BDT engine rebuild kits. With the main difference being the size of the cylinder bore. I have also noticed some kits have 2 O-ring sleeves and some have 3 O-ring sleeves. I was really hoping to have the parts ordered and ready to go when I took the machine apart. But now I'm thinking the best bet is to tear it all down and figure out which kit I need from there. I have been searching high and low for rebuild kits, engines, and engine parts to see which direction to go. It doesn't seem there are as many available as I had hoped before buying this machine. I may have to talk to the previous owner some more and see how he ordered parts for it. In the last couple years, the previous owner has replaced 8 hoses, 3 cylinders, repacked the steering cylinders and some others, replaced the starter and alternator, and new batteries. Plus fuel filters and the oil and filter. He intended to keep the machine for a long time but also used it for his business. So when the engine quit, he decided to buy a newer, smaller machine that wouldn't need as much maintenance and he could transport himself. Ok, I think that's it for now. I'll add some pics so you can see the monster in it's current state. Jason
Hey Jason, What did you have to give for that machine if I might ask? I'm always trying to keep a relative value for this stuff in my head for future reference. BTW, my 2004 JD-210 LE had a bad rod bearing when it came home too, and I replaced the whole thing with a crate long block...always makes me wonder how these guys trash a rod or main bearing without running out of oil. BUT!! Some guys could break an anvil!! LOL
Jason : the bore size is the same in all 336s or it wouldn't be a 336. The only difference you would find is that some are turbo charged and some aren't. Engine serial numbers usually are unimportant for what you are doing. Don't worry about the number of o-rings on the cylinders. The rebuild kit will have what you need. Call Dale Wiess, he will answer ALL of your questions. His rebuild kits are very high quality. When you remove the oil pump look carefully and keep track of how many shims are on each bolt between the block and pump. That is how the backlash is set for the drive gears. That pump has timing marks on the gears because it balances the engine.
Long story short, I tow for AAA and had to tow the guys truck. When we were unloading I saw the backhoe and asked about it. He said he was going to scrap it and the scrap place was going to give him $1700 for it when they could get there to get it. So I told him I would give him $1700 plus $50 to let it sit until I can get it moved. He said $1700 and its mine and I can take my time getting it out! Not sure about out there, but a running 780 here can sell anywhere from $15,000-$20,000. My overall plan is to rebuild the engine and restore the machine as much as possible. It's not in terrible condition but it'll definitely require some elbow grease. I'll add some pics from today's little bit of progress of getting the monster ready to move. Which leads me to my next question. I got the buckets up and ready, and one stabilizer. But the right stabilizer won't budge. Does anyone think it'll be as easy as opening up the line and trying to lift it? Or will it be a little more work than that?
I think you scored! Ya, gonna be some work involved, but it is a nice machine. I'd have no issues cracking a hydraulic line and lifting a leg. Prolly gonn'a need a come-along though... That Ol' boy with the property sure has some "treasures"...
Tinkerer, the image shows what I keep finding. But I will call Dale tomorrow and speaks with him to see what he says. Does he usually stock most parts or have to order them? Thank you for the tips. If you have anymore please let me know. I have rebuilt engines before, but never a diesel and never anything like this. I'm gonna take my time with it and make sure it's right. Do you recommend anything else I should replace while the engine is out and apart? (i.e.- water pump, oil pump, oil screen, etc..)
Yup. open both lines and hit it w/ some air.. STAND BACK.. its gonna fly and your gonna get wet.. lol OR just winch it up. MUCH, MUCH SAFER.. That thing is a monster.. compared to a 580.. and I thought 3500. was good, but the 580 my friend bought was running and driving.
Thanks, Plongson! I'm excited for the adventure and experience. I had the back of the roll back under the stabilizer and lifted the whole right side off the ground trying to get it up. I'm just hoping the piston isn't froze inside and that cracking the line is enough to get it up. Otherwise I may have to pull the pin off the pad and deal with it after i get it home.
Lucky to find one around here running for under $10,000. And even then they need some kind of work and are pre-70's.
You will need to dismantle the engine and determine how it is balanced. That is why there are two different replacement pistons available. Did you pull back on the stabilizer lever when you were putting upward pressure on it ?
How do I determine how it is balanced once it's all apart? I used a ratchet strap to hold the levers as I was lifting each cylinder. With some hope, I left the ratchet strap on the one stabilizer lever and put a log underneath the pad so maybe it'll loosen up with the weight of the machine on it. *fingers crossed*
You will know as soon as you get a look at the oil pump. The oil pump with the balancer integrated in it it massive and uses those mounting shims I mentioned before. When dealing with old machines you never know what may have been altered to the engine. Is the turbo charger on it ? Or is it naturally aspirated ? If the turbo is on it that will determine which rebuild kit you need. I think the turbo pistons have a different fire-ring than a non-turbo charged engine. I believe that screenshot you posted is showing in-frame kits. Be very careful of which kit you purchase. That is why I encourage you to call Dale.
Tinkerer, I'm gonna call Dale tomorrow. Work was crazy today so I didn't get a chance to. The turbo is still on it but I'm kinda worried about how the engine is gonna look inside. I realized the exhaust pipe hasn't been on it and may have gotten water into the turbo and manifold. I believe you are correct about those kits being in-frame. I'll probably just order everything right from Dale if he has or can get what I need. Thank you again for all of your help. It's greatly appreciated.
Not sure if I should start a new thread for this or not. There seems to be some question as to the year of my machine. If someone has access to check the serial number that would be great! The serial number on the machine is: 5501214 The previous owner stated the backhoe is a 1984 Case 780CK. If anyone could confirm this or lead me to the best place to find the info, it would be greatly appreciated! Thank you in advance! I am also wondering if the 336BDT is known at all for breaking a crankshaft? The PO said the engine was seized so I pulled the starter out to see if I could turn the flywheel at all and it will move about 3 inches back and forth before feeling it bind up. But watching the front of the engine, I didn't really see anything moving (alternator, belts, etc..). Does the flywheel have to be moved more to see anything up front moving? Jay
A picture of the machine would help. You most likely have a 780B. They were made from July 1981 to early 1984. In 1984 Case started putting the 6 cylinder motors in them. They then were 780Cs. The 336 engine is not known to have a reputation for broken crankshafts. I think you may need to remove the engine and do a complete tear-down. Lack of anything moving up front as you describe could be problem with the crankshaft damper, or it could be a broken crankshaft. Remove the oil pan and then you will find out what the problem is. Its going to be coming off eventually anyway.
I'm thinking the machine is a '74. Not an '84. I'll be tearing into the engine this week since I finally got the machine home yesterday. I did email E-Backhoeparts.com with a starting list of parts I know I need and have part numbers for. Plus I requested info on the engine.
Here is a link to the OEM Case spec sheet for your Machine. -----> http://www.casece.com/en_us/Gallery/Downloads/xPM_LB_780/cce_LB_Historic_780_specs_06-26-2009_1.pdf You are right about it not being a 1984. The cab design was changed in 84. That suicide step-out was eliminated by extending the door down with an additional window in it. You have a 780 with no letter model, just a straight 780. The 780 came out in 1971, yours could have been made anytime from 71 to 84. I think the 84 became a 780B. I don't have access to serial numbers and years made. When you do the engine tear-down take a lot of photos as you proceed, they will extremely helpfull when it goes back together.
Nice save from the scrapper. I'd definitely rather buy a machine with a believable story and a blown engine, than something from an auction where who know's what's wrong with it. You can do a LOT worse than a blown engine on a backhoe. Like what was mentioned earlier, I'd tear the engine apart to see what's usable before ordering any parts for the engine. You might end up with a used engine and need different parts.
The verdict is in. The crankshaft is broken and it took the first main bearing cap with it and possibly the oil pump. The block and crank are scrap at this point. And everything I've seen inside the engine is far from what I thought was in it. The engine has a front mount oil pump and no 2 or 3 gear balancer. The oil pan was RTV'ed on and the connecting rod numbers do not match the cylinders they are in. So, does anyone have a good, cheap place to get a block and a crank that will work with what I already have? Or should I find a complete used engine? I saw one used, complete engine so far for $2995 plus freight. I just hate not knowing whats inside of it and then finding out after I put it in that it doesn't run or I have to pull it back out in a month to rebuild it. If I could get a year out of it and then pull it back out and rebuild it I'd be ok. Just can't afford to take a big cash hit like that with Xmas coming up. Any ideas or suggestions are greatly appreciated. Thank you, Jason
Dale Weiss is good people.. If he can help.. he will.. Heck, he might tell you what will bolt in its place.. ask. Sorry for the bad luck.. I'm all to familiar w/ it this month myself..
you have only $1700.00 in it and you say the are worth a great deal more than for one that is running. Get a used engine with warranty of some kind. If the seller has a warranty on it he is prolly confident it is a good one. How bad is the damage to the block ?
Sorry for the late reply. I attached some images of the damage. I ordered a used engine (minus the turbo) out of Pennsylvania that I should have tuesday or wednesday next week. They said its a running take out and are giving me a 30 day warranty. And at $2995 shipped, it seemed like the cheapest alternative to finding a good block and crank and then rebuilding it. Which would probably put me in the same ballpark for cost, if not more. So I am only invested in the machine for $4695 plus a couple gallons of Purple Power that I have used to clean up the frame around the engine mounts, the front of the machine, and underneath. I am happy with how clean it looks now. I added a pic of how well it's cleaning up too. I think if I had a pressure washer it would clean up a lot faster though so that's on the 'to buy' list. Hope everyone had a great Thanksgiving!
Nice work.. Yes, a pressure washer IS a must have, especially if your doing your own wrenching.. Your local Craigs list is your friend when it comes to used equipment that will sit for a spell.. not a lot of cost, so who cares if it breaks. Even a cheap electric one for 50-75.00 would be better than nothin'. I'v seen them as low as 30.00. Keep the pictures and progress coming.. good work
Well I'll spare some of the pictures as I have taken almost 200 already but I'll share some more. The first one is of the Tach cable where it goes into the block. I couldn't get the cable out so I pulled it out with the engine. Any ideas on how to get it out? The next two show all the cracks and crevices I am trying to get clean while the engine is out.
I got the old block stripped down of anything worth saving. One connecting rod is trash. The crank wore through the bearing and into the connecting rod. The tach drive is no good. There is no gear on it. So now I'm on the hunt for a tach drive since the engine I am getting doesn't have one (the engine came from a Case 880). I haven't asked Dale Weiss about it yet but will probably get his opinion when I order some other parts this week. If anyone has any leads on one or good place to get one (new or used), it's greatly appreciated. I cannot tell exactly what was the leading cause of the internal damage but I do have some more pics that I'll post tomorrow from the computer. All this time I have while waiting for the engine, the machine will be spotless. But I do still need to pick up a pressure washer. I would like to get the back side cleaned around the backhoe valve and underneath the machine. Hopefully I'll be able to narrow down the leaky seals much easier once all the dirt, oil, and grease is all washed away. I'm still shocked at how much yellow paint is actually still under all the grime. Sorry for the long winded post. Hoping next weeks posts will be more productive. Have a great weekend everyone! Jason
Sadly that tach drive is REALLY expensive. New ones are just plain absurd for what CNH dealers charge for them. You will be able to get a decent used one from an agricultural equipment salvage yard for about $135.00. That is what was quoted to me about a year ago for one.
It always makes me wonder how these guys can do so much damage to an engine. I can see it in a race car turning 10k rpm but in a dang tractor running 2500 rpm, it would surly give lots of warning before it crapped the bed. I suspect the operators are not the owners and just run them into the ground. What a shame... Good luck with this project. I've been there and done that on a tractor with a bad motor. It's real funny how you create a weird bond...man and machine...after the sweat, blood and tears of a major overhaul. LOL Our John Deere is affectionately called "Johnny" around our place now..
Tinkerer, The $135 is some what tolerable compared to the price of the new ones. Do they fail often? I think even some kind of after market tach would cost about the same as a good used one but I haven't looked into it yet. The cable seems to spin ok from what I can see, so as long as the gauge works then it's only the tach drive (or gear, if its an option) that I will need. Plongson, I have met a few people who knew the previous owner of the machine and apparently he has a track record of not maintaining his equipment. He has a few log splitters, all with new engines, and a truck or two with blown engines. It's amazing at how lazy people can really be and don't maintain their equipment. And to replace the Case that I bought from him, he bought a brand new Kubota at a cost of some where around $50,000. I can only imagine how the inside of that engine will look in a few years. It's really sad. More money than brains I guess. As far as the man-to-machine bond, I hear you on that. I feel like I already know the machine from top to bottom and all I have done is remove the engine and clean it up. On another note, I did buy a pressure washer today to help speed up the cleaning process since we have snow in the forecast this week. Fingers crossed it passes quickly and this crazy New England weather hits a decent warm snap again to finish things up without getting frost bite.
Man, I hate to see you suffer working on that project out in the open. My engine R&R was in July and was pretty decent...it's 17°f here this morning...wouldn't be much power washing going on...LOL
Those tach drives last quite a while considering the fact that the gear on them is a composite material. The reason being is that the the gear that is machined on the camshaft will be like new after thousands of hours. If you need to replace the tachometer don't pay the $400.00 CNH charges for them. There are aftermarket ones available on Ebay. Like this listing -----> http://www.ebay.com/itm/Case-Tracto...502843?hash=item3d2a77da7b:g:U2wAAOSw--1Wr4G1 Or this one ----> http://www.ebay.com/itm/Case-Tracto...64f794a&pid=100005&rk=3&rkt=6&sd=262465512373
I was surfing the web and ran across another possible source for USED Case parts.. Rock Valley Tractor Parts.. I hope this comes in handy..
Hey guys, Sorry for going so long without posting any updates. Not too much has happened other than swapping some parts around and changing gaskets. I changed the oil pan gasket and found quite the surprises. The crank looks to have been cleaned up. The sleeves, pistons, and pins have all been replaced. And there's a tach drive in the block!!! When I was comparing the engine components from the backhoe engine to the excavator engine (that's what the seller told me the engine was removed from) online, the excavator engine does not list or show a tach drive. So I am wondering if anyone knows if these engines all had the tach drive but was actually only used on some? Or maybe the engine came out of a 'hoe and was rebuilt before put into the excavator? And the next question is, is the gearing all the same ratio? There's a plug on the outside of the block that I have not removed yet but looks like it is just threaded into the hole. I had to change the water pump housing due to the mounting of the air compressor for the air brakes. My original water pump looks to have been replaced more recently than the one on the excavator engine and the bearings felt tighter in mine so I had no hesitation just keeping the original pump attached to the housing for the swap. Though I did change the gasket. I also swapped the exhaust manifold since the one with the engine was broke. It looked as though it was broken by the chain when they removed it. But again, not really a big deal since I was going to replace the gaskets anyways and had to use my turbo. All in all it's been good progress considering my work schedule. I was actually hoping to get the engine set in today but due to the great New England weather, we got a few inches of snow so work offered some good overtime. Fingers are crossed to get it in this week. The majority of the backhoe and engine are cleaned up nice thanks to the pressure washer and some decent weather to get it done.
#1 - Not all of the 336's had tach drives in them. The hole was plugged at the factory. #2- What gearing ratio are you referring to ? #3- Are you referring to the 3/4 inch pipe plug ? If you are that is the coolant drain.
Tinkerer, The ratio I was asking about is the number of teeth on the camshaft and the number of teeth on the tach drive gear. Were they all the same cam gears and such gears? The plug is in the top of the hole where the tachometer cable would go into the tach drive. I'll try to get a picture of it today to post so you can see it. I'm looking to replace all of the sending units for the gauges and warning lights since the original ones all looked like they were leaking and I think only one was actually hooked up. I'm probably going to have to re-wire the engine and gauges. I also noticed there's no wires connected to the neutral safety switch. So I'm thinking they bypassed it or something. Before disassembling, I did try to turn over the engine with the starter and it would work whether in neutral or not. So it looks like I'll be doing some wiring. I can add some lights that way too and bring it back to some what original working condition. Thank you, Jason
No need to post a photo of the tach-drive plug Jason. I know what it looks like. All 301 and 336 tach-drives are the same. Your center photo clearly shows a a tach-drive in place with like new looking teeth. I myself found no need for the neutral safety switch,but for the sake of your safety it would be a good idea to connect it again if it is still usable. Looks like you lucked out ans got a really nice engine from the looks of the crankshaft photos. If you still have the oil pan off it may be a good idea to check the torque on the rods and crankshaft journals.
Hello everyone, Sorry for the delay in updates. I do have the engine in the backhoe and started piecing things together, slowly. Tinkerer, I did check the torque while the engine was opened up. Thank you for mentioning that. Unfortunately, on Christmas day I sprained my ankle pretty good and pulled a muscle in my leg. So that put a halt on everything. But good news, I am back on my feet and slowly losing the limp that I gained. Next up for the backhoe is everything from the fan forward (fan, radiator, shroud, oil cooler, etc..) I am still confused with the tachometer. The tach drive is there. But when I remove the plug, there seems to be a rod or shaft that comes out of it. How does this work with the cable? The cable has a shaft coming out of it that looks like it should slide into the drive. Any insight to this would be great. I did reuse the switches and sending units for now until I can find replacements. They are easy to change with the engine in place. While I am finding those and getting all the correct wiring I need, I know the machine should still run and function. I am having trouble finding one hydraulic fitting for the boom. No one locally or within a reasonable distance seems to have it. And trying to search for it online hasn't been easy at all. So all in all, between my ankle and weather, things have been slow going. But fingers are crossed that it's up and running in the next week. Hope everyone had good holidays and happy new year!
The core cable that is inside the flexible housing should have a (male) square end on it. it should slip into to the drive assembly that is in the block. You could remove the cable from the tachometer and take look at it. Both ends of the flex (core) cable should look the same. Did the square part of it stay in the old drive when you removed it ? Any CNH dealer can get a new (flexible) core for the tach cable. You have to cut it to the correct length for your application. They are net very expensive. Glad to hear you are feeling better and r back at reassembling the engine.
Well, good news and bad news. The engine is in, all hooked up, and ran for about 5 minutes. I shut it down when I saw a fuel leak in the line off the tank. So I replaced the fuel line and re-bled the fuel system. I went to start it back up, and now I have what looks like water coming out of the exhaust. And not moisture kinda water. Like water coming out of the kitchen sink kind of water. When I try to start it now, there's no smoke. It cranks and the water just flows out. A few minutes after cranking, it'll eventually stop. At first I thought it was fuel because it didn't look like antifreeze. So I pulled all the injectors and changed them out. It made no difference. But now the water has a slight green tint to it. I didn't use any water when I filled the engine. I only used 50/50 antifreeze. So I'm thinking it's probably a head gasket. Praying it's nothing worse. But preparing myself for another nightmare. Any tips, tricks, or ideas on these headgaskets? If I pull the injectors again and crank the engine over, it may tell me which cylinder it is. But either way, I would replace both gaskets. Are the heads known to crack at all? The plan is to pull it apart tomorrow and order what I need and hopefully get it back together next week. Weather depending of course and as long as I don't find anything else wrong. This is like a smack in the face and has really got me down. It's just one thing after another. Thank you all again for any insight and info. I really do appreciate it.
That sux.. to be sure of the fluid, just taste it.. it wont kill ya.. DONT spin it over anymore!!!! you'll be dam lucky if you didn't bend a valve/push rod already..
Take off the exhaust manifold and then add water to the radiator, then crank it over. Hopefully only one of the heads need to come off.
Well the news isn't good. I have a cracked cylinder liner/sleeve. Other than that, everything looks good for the most part. Including the head gaskets. So now I am in the process of deciding how far I wanna go to fix it. I have basically 3 options which are (in order by cost, low-high): 1) remove a sleeve from my old block, hone it, and replace o-rings and gaskets. Done with the engine in the backhoe. Roughly $170 plus fluids and filters. 2) same as #1, except order a new sleeve kit. Also done in the backhoe. Roughly $250 plus fluids and filters. 3) pull the engine back out, order a complete overhaul kit, have the block cleaned and checked along with the heads. About $1600 plus fluids and filters. So my next question is, what would you do in my situation? I was looking up parts and trying to figure out which ones fit my engine. There are two different sleeves listed. The difference seems to be in the 'sleeve fire diameter'. Can anyone explain where on the sleeve this measurement is taken? From what I can tell by measuring different areas with my caliper, it's at the top on the outside edge of the sleeve, but not the most outer edge. If that makes sense. I'll put up some pictures of the damage later when I'm on the computer. Hope everyone is having a great weekend. Cheers!
One last quick question, any idea what would have caused this to happen? Could it have been anything that I did and could prevent from happening again? Thank you!
We can't tell you which way to go with your repair Jason. I can tell you what I would do though. That would be remove the engine from the tractor and do a complete overhaul. Camshaft bearings included. I am just really fussy and would want a like new engine when I was done. If you do take a sleeve out of your old engine be sure to use the same piston that was in it. The turbo charged engine uses different sleeves than the naturally aspirated diesel. The photo shows where to measure the fire ring diameter. In regards to what happened to your cracked sleeve ---- water from an open exhaust pipe would be my guess. The condition of the other sleeves -- hmmmmmm.
Well I'm still up in the air with what direction I'm going. I did see a rebuilt short block on ebay for $6200 with a 1 year warranty which could be another route to take. In the mean time, here are a couple pictures of the crack.
Be prepared for that $6200 to increase...possibly significantly. My $5900 long block turned into $9700 by the time I replaced hoses, belts, engine mounts, injectors etc. I plan on keeping the tractor and cut no corners, fixing, repairing and inspecting along with installing the new engine...that's not saying something won't flair up someday...but let me tell you, there ain't nothing like having the confidence on a cold winter morning to go out and fire up your tractor and put it to work...and NOT having to fix something first. My vote is for a new engine.
I dunno Jason, you said earlier you were looking at a used engine for $2995.00. Add that $6200.00 for short block and that puts you over $9000.00. Figure maybe 3 or 4 hundred more to get the heads redone. It's not looking good on paper to me. Put a complete overhaul kit in the engine with the cracked sleeve and save yourself about $4000.00. I don't know what your budget is but, be prepared to have issues with other things on the entire machine. Just as an example; if the splines on the hydraulic pump input shaft are badly worn it will take about $400.00 to replace it, and the female part of it that bolts to the crankshaft damper. It appears from reading your posts that you are capable of doing all the labor yourself. Hopefully I just looked at the rebuilt engine that is on Ebay. U have $225.00 shipping to add to the $6200.00. Farmland tractor is a good place to deal with. I have purchased from them directly myself.
Hello Everyone! Sorry for being away so long. I ended up rebuilding the engine from top to bottom. It runs great now. I still have a few seals/hoses to replace on the hydraulics but I am focusing on the running/moving parts first. I have noticed a few leaks on the radiator but haven't had any luck finding a replacement yet. I'd like to replace the brakes but that's around $800+ just for the shoes so that is on hold until I get the radiator squared away. I've also been looking around for a rebuild kit for the transmission and have had no luck. Other than that, I try to tinker with smaller things on it when I have time. A light here, and a hose fitting there. For the little amount I've had the time to use it, it's a strong machine. It does seem to get stuck quite a bit when I have a load in the front. So I'm wondering if filling the read tires would help with that..? Another small issue is the rear boom lock. There's no parts left for it on the machine so I bought some steel to fabricate a new one. The backhoe swings and moves a lot so that's moved up a bit higher on the priority list. If anyone has a dead machine sitting around with parts available, I'm interested. It's a lot of small stuff that I'm looking for. Hope everyone is doing well! Jason
Thanks for the update Jason, I was wondering how your project is going. In regards to your radiator; take it to a professional and have them quote a price on a recore job or whatever it needs. If the brake shoes are salvageable take them to a heavy truck repair shop and have them relined. The drums would have to be really badly worn before I would replace them. Everything in your air brake system including replacement brake chambers can be purchased at NAPA or on Ebay. The boom cylinder should hold the boom up for decent amount of time. If not put a new seal kit in it.
i was wondering if you had a extra connecting rod? im trying to fix a 336bdt case in my 780ck too
Don't limit your search to 336 connecting rods. 301 cubic inch engines used the same rod. Call Dale Wiess at http://e-backhoeparts.com/ . He may be able to help you.(765)-378-3396
Thank you tinkerer, ill check him out also. Im still dreading pulling this big 4 cylinder, i got everything unbolted since i couldnt get the oil pan out due to front axle parts in way to completely remove pan and do in frame. do you guys think its necessary to support the transmission from underneeth with cribbing when pulling? id hate to mess anything extra up.
i pic of my rod for fun
No need to block up the transmission. It has very strong mounting brackets. They are notorious for the bolts coming loose. What happened to the engine to cause that kind of damage to the connecting rod ? Crankshaft damaged ?
wow i took a long time to respond, still havent pulled it, picked up a generator with a cummins 4b in it with a sae 3 pattern, hoping to get something going to be able to move it around. tell i can get the engine fixed, the guy i bought it from was driving it low on oil down a mountain or up one here in alaska i think he said down and it boke it.
engine still i frame i need to pull it, im super slow, so i dont know if it is the crank too,
Thanks for the update chestypuller. You are talking about the 780, yes ? If you are and it was driven when it was low on oil, it is a good thing you are removing the engine from the machine to work on it.
still havent removed engine, cant figure a good way to get it out, outside in the elements on grass. got the cummins 4b seperated from generator still dont know if its a sae 3 or not, no idea what the a336bdt pattern is since its still in backhoe.
Did you ever get your engine out and find out the SAE size?
Hello, I'm new to the forum aswell, and have the 336bdt aswell, it runs fine but will randomly dump all oul out of the valve cover vent. I was gonna see if it was possible to get that engine service manual aswell my email is [email protected] . thanks in advance.
Hi James and Welcome to HEF ! I will send you a link to the file later today. If you still are able to edit your post when you read this, I would advise you to remove your email address. If the time frame expires to do that, ask one of the mods to remove it. Take the valve covers off of the engine and see if the is a lot sludge or something else preventing the oil from draining down to the oil pan.
Unfortunately it appears that Minn Par no is supporting their website. They had quite a library of manuals available for downloading.
Thanks for the message back I have contacted support on how to remove my email, hope they get back to me soon. Thank you for the advice and I'll be watching for that service manual thank you
Check your email inbox.
Hey man, I'm not seeing anything in my email I'm sorry. I looked in spam and everything
I sent it again just now. If you don't get it this time, resend me your email address in a HEF private message.
i still havent got the engine out, i know hard to believe. Lost my copy of manual, want to get going back on it this spring before mosquitos... Ill start my own thread when i get into it for everyone to enjoy
well the guy that used to own it was low on oil,comming down or going up a moutain grade and starved it for oil, thats the story i got
Hi Jason, and Chesty.. Any further progress with projects