Hey everyone. Just picked up that dozer and there are 0 zerks on any of the cylinder joints for the blade, lift arms etc. Only one's I have found are for the tracks. Looks like there are holes for zerk fittings but not a single one there and doesn't look like they have ever been greased. Are they supposed to? Thanks for the help. Also, guy said he put gold band aw32 hydraulic oil in the transmission when he changed the fluids...any concerns with that? Don't live in a super cold environment and just using this to put in a few roads on my farm etc.
Post a machine Serial Number to help locate accurate information.
vehicle# 27y1235 engine # 45v30380 transmission # 1ba01807 Let me know if you need anything else. Thank you.
First & foremost I would suggest that you get hold of an Operation & Maintenance Manual. The Cat Publication reference is SEBU5649 and if you can't find a used one anywhere it can be downloaded from the Cat Pubs web site for $52 or try this one on eBay Regarding the greasing the only points that are mentioned in the O&M Manual are 3 points on the main drive shaft. If your particular machine is fitted with an angling/tilting bulldozer arrangement (the system says not) then there will be grease fittings on both ends of the tilt cylinder. Your 27Y-prefix tractor has a 3F/3R powershift transmission. Therefore AW32 is not the correct oil as it does not contain any additives for the friction materials found in transmission clutches. The correct oil for your climate would be either an SAE 10W oil meeting Cat TO-4 specification, or alternatively a TO-4 SAE 10W/30 multigrade oil that was not available when your tractor was originally built. The multigrade oil would give a greater range of ambient temperature capability.
Yes, change the transmission fluid ASAP and check/change the filter while you're at it. The transmissions in D3B's/931B's are pretty bullet proof. You rarely hear of them needing much repairs. Best practice is to reduce throttle for 2 seconds when changing directions. You don't want to shock the transmission and driveline with abrupt direction changes. Also don't want to run 3rd gear, especially in reverse if you want the undercarriage to last.
Thank you both for all the help and information. Boy was that trans oil milky. Glad I decided to change it. The bevel gear oil seems fine but I'm sure he put that aw32 in there as well so figure I might as well change that. On those I notice 3 different drain plugs, do you do them one at a time it looks like?
Are there 2 square head bolts underneath the clutch compartments protected by a round ring? If so you have dry clutches. Those bolts hold up the brake bands. If not I think there's drain plugs for each compartment. The bevel gear has it's own compartment.
Had another question. I checked the trans filter (bottom of the trans 4 bolts) but didn't check the screen up on top of the trans. Can you check that with the trans full of oil or does it need to be drained? Also, can the breather be checked and cleaned without draining the trans oil? Thanks!
Breather should be up top, not where oil could run out. Not sure about the screen.
From what I've seen in a couple videos it seems as though there's a can up near the breather with 3 bolts. I figure if it is up near the breather it's high enough to not have oil run out. ?
You can certainly clean the breather without dropping the oil, the suction screen is a different story. It may not require all the oil to be drained but I would say that you will certainly lose some oil when you open it if you don’t drain the oil first.
how much do you think would come out? seems like a small amount since it is higher than the fill tube and transmission...? Thank you both for the replies. The weird thing is it seems to be leaking trans fluid out of the fill tube near the bottom of it just above the 90 degree turn. I tightened all the bolts leading to the trans but it seems to be before that on the neck. Any ideas? I checked the oil while it is running vs not running as well but it wasn't overfilled. When the machine is running i can see the oil just above the 90 degree elbow on the tube and it is a little higher than that when off but not anywhere near the top.
Is there some sort of a gasket or seal in that joint.? I would have thought so. See the attached. It sounds as though a Parts Manual would also be of use to you.
I could see there being one where it bolts to the transmission but it seems to be leaking up above that on the tube itself. The 12 spot says it has 4 hard washers in there...seems strange.
The washers #12 are on both sides if you look closely. There are three identical bolts #8, two on the left & one on the right. Then one longer bolt #2 on the RH side. So a total of 4 bolts, each one with a washer. Simples....... Tube cracked where it is welded to the elbow at the bottom, or maybe a crack in the tube itself.? The only way to find out for sure would be to drain the oil and remove the tube completely.
so the trans # is 1ba01807. Should the oil level be checked with engine running or shut off? Also, there is no breather. This trans looks different that the ones I've seen online. There's a big square box under the floor pan and a circle with 4 bolts, i'm thinking the screen is in there. All the others I have seen sit horizontal in a metal cylinder but this doesn't have it.
It might specify on the dipstick how to check the oil level. Usually running at operating temperature. There is a gasket where the filler tube bolts on. The 3F/1R transmission has a screen while the 3F/3R has a filter. If it's a 3F/1R the screen is near the top with 3 bolts. You might not have to drain the oil. You could loosen the cover a little and see if oil starts running out and snug it back up if oil runs out.
Oddly enough it doesn't say on the dipstick, that was my first thought to check as our old d6 says it on the stick which is helpful. This one has 3/3 trans but does have a filter on the bottom of the trans, no breather near the top though. The weird thing is it seems like the filler tube fits in to the L shaped elbow that bolts on the trans. The leak seems to be coming from where the tube slides in to the L shaped elbow but I can't see anything coming out at all but then of course over night there's oil in the morning on the ground. Very odd and the oil level while the machine is running is still visible in the L shaped elbow but reads low on the stick but of course it drops a little from when the machine is off resulting in it being over the full line. I would imagine if I can still see it in the tube while running it can't be that low right? Probably a 2-3in drop in oil level from it running vs off.
I'll look in the operators manual for my 931B when I get a chance.
The tube will likely be either welded or brazed into the elbow. As I said before the only sure fire way to tell where it's leaking is to get it off the machine for a close inspection. Does your D6 stick have markings on both sides, one for engine running, the other for engine stopped.? If it does I would suggest to compare the tow sets. I would guess that the level markings for engine stopped will be higher than for engine running. Then use that same theory for your D3B. I would say the oil level needs to be signficantly above the FULL mark when the engine is stopped with cold oil and somewhere between the ADD and FULL marks when the engine is idling with the transmission in neutral and the oil at normal operating temperature.
So upon further inspection and after running it today and seeing oil coming out pretty heavy I found that there are 2 tiny holes in the filler tube that are causing the leak. I took the bottom cover off and drained some oil out and when the level dropped I could see the two little holes. Rather than draining the oil and trying to replace the tube I am going to put some gasket sealer on it and let it dry then wrap it with electrical tape because there is a rubber hose that is wrapped with what looks like a metal spring that rubs against the tube. I don't think is causing the leak but I think the tube has been welded before and maybe they burned the metal thin in that area and that is causing the leak but we'll use the gasket sealer and see if it works. The thing about it is it is high enough that when the oil level is on the full mark on the dipstick, with engine running, the oil is below those two holes. So it is high enough on the neck that I think it will be fine. If it isn't then I'll drain and replace it but this will get my by while the weather is nice to get the last of my jobs done and then possibly weld it or replace it if I can get another one this winter. Thank you both for the help, I sure appreciate you guys.
I don't know if gasket sealer and electrical tape will fix holes in the filler tube and work at operating temperature/pressure. You might be better using a rubber connector for plastic pipe and some hose clamps to see if that works. The rubber could be slit to go around the pipe. I'd only try it temporarily though. Brazing the filler tube might be a more permanent repair if it's thin material.
I found my manual. The trans. filter can be checked/changed without draining the oil because it comes out the top. For checking trans. oil level it says to check before starting and then check after it's running. I think checking before starting is just to make sure it has some oil. It should be at the full level when running. For changing the oil it says to warm the machine for 5 minutes before removing the drain plug. I thinking checking when it's warm is the most accurate.
I had one other question. Weather changed so got it in the shop to do some other TLC and drained the hyd tank. There was some white sludge on the bottom of the tank (no access plate, just looking down the fill neck). Is there a suction screen on this at the bottom of the tank like there is on the transmission? I found the filter right next to the fill neck but was curious about the suction screen if there is one? I put some diesel in the tank after draining the oil to get out the majority of the sludge and just letting it sit to dry out a bit. Thanks!
There doesn't appear to be a suction screen looking at the tank parts group. I wonder if the white sludge could be from moisture/water in the tank in the past.
Thanks for the info. Yes, definitely water or moisture. Not very deep but enough i wanted to clean it before adding new oil. Unfortunately, there isn't an access panel either so have to clean it through the fill neck with diesel and compressed air
I think the suction hose connects on the bottom with a bolt on 90 deg. fitting. It might be hard to get to though.