Hey just picked up that truck. Noticed on the way home the speedo doesn't work. Any tips or tricks to get it running or places to get one? Also, guy said it takes 3 batteries but there were only 2 in it and didn't look like there were other cables to tie a third in...any advice would be appreciated. Started up with 2 in it and didn't seem to have any issues, drove it home about 40min away. Thanks in advance! Anything to watch out for with these or tips and tricks from experienced owners? I believe it has a cummins big cam in it but not sure which yet. Need to steam clean it and crawl under it. Crazy thing is there doesn't seem to be a drop of oil coming out of it...other than the pto a tiny little bit.
Speedo will be cable drive most likely, maybe the drive on the back of the trans is failed, that would be the easy fix. I didn't have much luck keeping speedos working on our old trucks. If the cable is broke, you can get new stuff to fix it. As far as the battery issue, you just put a third battery next to the other two, and hopefully, if it has stud post, just connect it up with short cables, pos to pos, neg to neg.
If it has a 2 speed rear end then it has a speedo gearbox to allow for that.
I'd be surprised if it DID work and was accurate. Probably easier to use GPS at this point.
So it does take 3 batteries? Thank you for the info, I'll crawl under and take a look today and see what's going on. Thanks for pointing me in the right direction!
What would you recommend for using gps?
What would you recommend for using gps?
Takes however many you want to put and have room for. Have seen trucks with only 1 and some with 6
What would be the advantage of having 3 vs 2 if it started with 2 in it?
You should be able to look and see if it ever had 3 or if it just had 2. If it starts ok all the time I would stay with 2 . 3 will just make it turn over better when its cold.
There are three types of speedometers that can be used, mechanical, electronic & GPS. In many cases on trucks a ratio box is used at the transmission to increase or decrease speedometer speed, several variables come into play such as tire size and final drive gear ratio. The electronic is run off a sensor at transmission and uses dip switches on the back of speedometer head to set speed using the same tire size/gear ratio to work up settings using math to calibrate. The there is the GPS speedometer-real simple has a sky aimed transmitter located outside of cab. Very accurate but does have a slight delay as speed increases, but is quick to reset, easy to install. Link to speedo ratio box. * https://texasindustrialelectric.com/800_Series_Speedometer_Adapter.asp
We put a gps unit in our Ford cab over, works really well, nice analog style. As you say there is a slight delay. It fit nicely in the factory housing.
I normally use my phone
CFR-393.82---Trucks and buses have to have a working speedometer. same as. CFR-393.81---A working horn. * A phone wouldn't look too well in case of a accident--has to hands free.
Thanks for all the information and replies, it really helps. So crawling around under there after cleaning the old girl off, turns out it's a cummins lta10. Looks like it takes 10gal of oil and 2 oil filters yes?
Also, was going to drain the coolant and replace it. Anyone have any recommendations on which coolant they prefer for this or no?
L10--10 gal sounds right and a full flow with by-pass filter, Just drain the coolant replace with pinkish-red extended life coolant. 5109 for fuel filter-should be.
nice to not have to go it alone
Set the phone in a holder. Google maps. Done. Reminds me I should fix the horn on one of my trucks
I don't know any shop not running ELC these days
Why not just fix it,, ELC extended life-look in a ag shop just might find green.
Might be 8 gallons oil
Might be.
I have the GMC General and the speed just bounces around, I know by RPM where I'm at in speed. Use a phone or whatever to find speed and then match the RPM to the speed to the gear you are in.
Or fix the speedometer--I thought HEF is about repairing.
I've been driving a general, I thought I was going 50, was going 35, then later I thought I was going 55, was going 75 Lol
Very true. The ol add and check never fails but nice to know someone who has played around with these before
Thank you Sir! Drained the coolant this afternoon and just looks like dirty water. Going to throw some distilled water in it and run for 5 min and drain...do it a couple cycles to see if it clears up before finishing it off. Crazy what a little steam cleaning, washing, elbow grease and armorall wipes will do to an old truck. She's sparkling now!
5 minutes isn't going to do much. I'd fill it with the hose, run it until the temp gauge comes off the cold mark, do that a couple times, then do your distilled flush. The last one I'd run it 20 miles, let it cool overnight before draining.
Any of you guys run 15w40 for power steering fluid in these? Have an old dozer that runs that for everything. Sure is nice when you go to service that thing as you only need one oil and you're set. Wish they were all like that haha.
I was told buy an old cat mechanic don't mix coolants and don't ever put water in that isn't distilled...? Said even on a flush when you are going to let it warm up. Only time you could do that is if you were just running the hose to clean something out but the drain was open and it wasn't going to heat up or run through the system..?
I agree don't use hose water I would buy distilled and buy around 20 some gallons. Filled up with a distilled run and get it enough to operating temperature l. Let it cool off and drain it out and fill it up with the distilled again I do it three times like this. Then I go with 50/50 of ELC coolant jugs are only 10 bucks where I get them at. Elc is mixed fleet so I put in everything including my wife's minivan but requires a flush. Don't forget there's probably block drains. I would like to know about the 15W40 in power steering systems as well I think you can do it but I haven't had the balls to try.
There are some power steering systems that ran motor oil from factory, most were 10x40. would 15x40 kill it probably not----what type of fluid is in it now?-atf? if so stay with it. * It's not the pump--it's what the steering gear manufacture required.
Doesn't seem to be any in there at the moment and was going to replace the filter on it so figured maybe I'd be ok to put 15w40 in there once I do that. I can't get any to register on the dipstick unfortunately.
Being a GMC I'm going to bet ATF--but a photo of the type of pump would help. Some were spec'd with Saginaw pumps some with Vickers. The Saginaw type normally run atf, Vickers either one.
Aw32 or atf for power steering.
Parts don't exist or are expensive. Not really needed anyhow.
I think it's the expense plus ambition. Off road not required, if used commercially yes it has to be a working item.
Ambition? You say that like I'm sitting on the couch fingering my bellybutton and not working 4 jobs and cinstantly have a few dozen projects going on. Try finding speedometer parts for an 70s L8000 for example... Strange hill to stand on! I've never had it to be an issue in any truck I've owned or run. How would the DOT even know anyhow?
FHWA Inspection-if it doesn't work it doesn't pass inspection. * Forget it -it's screwing up this guys thread. elsewhere.
If you don't have it, it doesn't have to work
Forget I said anything I guess. I just know that hose water with good coolant worked just fine for us 25 years ago, I know for a fact a bunch of those engines are still running just fine. Now, a new smogger common rail that's tuned to the max might be a different story altogether, but we're talking about an old intercooled L10. I stand by my statement. Get it flushed clean with water that costs $8 per thousand, and give it a good flush with your distilled before putting the whatever flavor coolant you prefer. Chances are, if you run that engine long enough, you're going to be seeing the inside of it. I don't think a taste or 3 of city water is going to make a damn bit of difference.
Not on any annual inspection I've ever done.
Tap water is what we use to blend coolant. Sell 10s of thousands of gallons a year.
The old procedure was hose water and get it hot, put the flush stuff in there and run it. If it looked really gnarly when you drained it, go get some more flush and repeat.
If you can't afford $30 in distilled, you probably shouldn't own an engine. Go ahead and knowingly put corrosive elements in a $20,000 engine
Been eating paint chips if you pay $20k for an L10. I'll round up a truckload to sela killing! killing! Most places tap water is fine. I wouldn't with my water, but it's very hard.
Your correct it is not on the form. It's a piece not listed but required, it's also required to be able to keep track of fuel mileage, small puny go no where's don't need it I suppose. They mostly operate broken down **** you need a cell phone for a speedometer. The point of HEF is to give advise for repair not some half *** {this will get you by}. The OP asked advise for his issue with the speedo in his Jimmy. There is a DOT requirement--so the speedometer is required.
Isn't every thing on a commercial truck required to work properly?
No, primarily safety items. Only gauges that matter are air pressure on an air brake truck.
49 CFR 393 - eCFR Title 49, part 393 of the Electronic Code of Federal Regulations. ecfr.io
Quick search said 10-15k for a reman, so maybe just dropped on head once.
That's average for a long block--complete 20, oem 28K.
Or buy complete 90s trucks with that turd engine for less...
Yes, but we regularly test the tap water from the Muni ( or used to) and it coincidentally, meets spec. Anchorage has amazingly, good water. The charter with Chevron requires it. IDK what they do in FAI.
Funniest citation I received was for not having sheets and blankets in the sleeper for T601, the red K-Dub in my avatar. CFR 393.76 Sleeper berths. e) Equipment. A sleeper berth must be properly equipped for sleeping. Its equipment must include: (1) Adequate bedclothing and blankets;
Back when paper logs were the only----Dot checking a log book and 8 hrs continually logged in off duty/not driving/sleeper birth it better look like it. A common trick years ago was a driver would hang women's blouse and some slacks on the hook behind the passenger seat/draped over the front of the seat so visible. Running several books they used that ploy as a team driver when there was none--scale masters can't wake a driver to check their book.
I pee in Elktuna lake and giggle that folks in Anchorage will drink it.... cause I'm still 10 yrs old some days
That's wild. I sleep in my work clothes on the chair by the front door all the time. No blankets needed! Real fun waking up from that "nap" with one boot still on, the other half off, look at the clock and do an "oh ****!" as it's already 5am.
I bought a Pete 377 with one for $1000. They are fine, much better than a two stroke.
Just never had much power. Have 2 90s White Autocar dumptrucks with them. They'll barely keep with traffic empty. Loaded, lucky to do 45 after WOT for a few miles.