What can you guys tell me about these loaders, i can't find much info on the net, i think they were bought out. I know it has 3 cylinder John deere diesel motor, other than that not much. Any ifo much appreciate Thanks Brent.
Brent. It looks like to me that someone has slapped a 444 and a deere sticker on that one. But if you can get me a serial # I might be able to help. Justin
Thanks Justin, but i guess i am out of luck, i was looking at buying this loader but i was contacted friday, and he sold it. Thanks for the post and your time. Brent. PS. i was sure it was no JD444 but was wanting to make sure i could get parts.
Hey guys, I have the same machine and the hydraulic pump is leaking out of the shaft. Trying to find a new pump for this guy. I have a few different numbers but can't find anything. If anyone can help I would REALLY APPRECIATE it. These are some # stamped on the pump itself...A930311MS. 24534. AND I found this on the net... D30927. The last number I found on this site, page 145. http://www.minnpar.com/partbooks/SKID STEER MANUALS/Prime Mover/LD50,LL40 #31393002.PDF Please help!
I would take the pump to a hydraulic shop to get a seal if you dont want to take it apart yourself
The guy I purchased it from did and it's leaking again. The guys at the shop said with motors that small when they leak out the shaft and it has been replaced that there is to much play so it's better to just get a new one. Just trying to find a pump that would work on this machine since it is difficult to find. Those guys are having a tough time finding one too...
From the looks of the some of the pictures in the parts manual it has a Sauer/Danfoss pump on the back of the engine. The problem is not to much play but the seal wears a grove in the shaft. If the pump shop is any good they can just replace the shaft. Not sure if you want to justify that or not but that is what I have had or pump shop here in Indy do a few times. Nova Hydraulics
What page(s) are you finding that on? Also, do you see a parts number for that? I might be able to search for that and find an equivalent pump I'm hoping. I found a part number for what looks like the pump and it's coming up as a cessna pump...part number 24534. Looks almost identical to the pump I have on hand.
Ok I was looking at the hydrostatic pump. You did say hydraulic pump. The cessna gear pump is usually a throw away pump though. And a like model should be available since they are still used on log spliters and such
Thanks for the post. After talking with a few guys they all said the same thing that they are throw away pumps. Kind of tough to find one since they s topped making them in 1984 or 85. They have to pretty much build them the guy said but isn't bad at all, takes like 2 days. Paid $864 for the pump then shipping. At least they were able to find one and get it put together for me. Call the guys at Northern Hydraulics...that's where I am getting this from and the ones who were able to cross the numbers I had on the pump 24534. Thanks guys!
Also worth checking is Surplus Center, they have a good assortment of pumps.
Have a question trying to find Neutral Control Assembly for this machine. According to the parts manual it is f9510482-2001. Do you guys know where I might find this part or a kit for that? Thanks!
I'm currently working on my Prime Mover LD50 machine as time permits. Mine has the 3164D Deere engine. My current search involves the original Hydraulic pump (under the radiator) and they are indeed obsolete. The parts needed for the pump came as a kit and that's hard to find. The pump I have still works but I know I need to get one from somewhere to have it ready to install one day. The problem is the size of the pump has to be the same or it won't fit. So far that's the only thing I've had trouble locating. This month I replaced the rubber coupling and spline coupling between the pump and the engine crankshaft I know these machines very well and I can help anyone who needs information on part numbers or where to find parts. On the Neutral Control Assembly, you can contact NTS hydrostatic repair since they supply all models of the Sunstrand pump series if. But I can tell you if your pump has never been replaced then most likely the pump will soon stop working all together. The pump is failing internally due to age. You are better off replacing the entire pump like I did. I had the same problem and then one day it stopped moving in either direction. Getting access to the pump is the fun part. Replacing the pump also requires an entire system flush (hoses, tank strainer, etc,) to ensure removal of any containments. All 0-rings on the hoses need to be replaced. It also requires replacing the hydraulic oil cooler to cover the pump warranty. All of this is a little costly, but it's FAR cheaper by doing all the work yourself and FAR cheaper than buying a new machine (try pricing a new articulating loader.).
I know this post is old, but for anyone reading this that pump is not a throw away pump. It's a Parker pump. The side ported head itself is what can't be found. Any Parker supply store that rebuilds hydraulics can rebuild this pump. I had mine rebuilt in 2019 with new seals pressure plates and the spline shaft for 600 dollars.
If anyone is still on this forum... I'm looking to cross reference some parts for my husband for our Prime Mover. We use it almost daily on the farm and it has some leaks and some loss of pressure so we are doing some maintenance. I have the parts manual, which is a bit overwhelming and not always helpful since everything is outdated. Does anyone have a list of current part numbers for filters and such common parts? Thanks in advance!
Yes, I can help you with everything you need. I know these machines like the back of my hand and use mine every week for jobs around my farm. Just post a list of what you need and I can provide you the part numbers and where to purchase the parts. I spent a lot of time fixing all the leaks I had on mine, everything from hoses, O-rings, hub seals, Hydraulic seals, transmission seals, etc. It is now leak free!!!
Well to start we have drained the hydraulic fluid to replace a nut on the bottom that broke and a hose that's leaking. We are looking at FIG 65 on pg131 and FIG 66 pg 133 to clean out the strainer and replace the filters. My husband thinks he found the spin on filter JD RT5015 or Napa 1243. Everything else has been hitting a wall. This came from a local tree nursery and it's just the coolest machine, but has been used and abused and we want to keep it running. THANK_YOU for any info!
My machine was put out of service until I fixed ALL the leaks. 90% of everything leaking was due to old age. The broken bolt you mentioned on the oil strainer will have to be drilled out and re-tapped. I assume that's what you are talking about. All 6 bolts have to be installed otherwise it will probably leak. If the tank has to be removed it's not a fun process. Working on these machines for the first time requires a learning curve and patience and it's very time consuming. Make sure to clean out the strainer several times before re-installing and wipe out the excess oil in the bottom of the tank. Also make sure to use black silicone gasket sealant that is oil resistant. The hose that is leaking at the tank can be purchased at Napa or any place that sells high pressure hydraulic hoses. It's the same hose (4" long) that's used on the tube that goes from the tank to the hydraulic pump. I suggest replacing both hoses while the fluid is drained. The hydraulic Filter is Napa 1506 or Baldwin PT-207-10. I would suggest that you also replace the large filter canister O-ring due to the age of the machine and also the flat rubber gasket on the attachment bolt. The part numbers are GRESEN HY067 and HY080. Also I highly stress to only use high quality Tractor Hydraulic Fluid that is compatible with Sundstrand Hydrostatic pumps (such as Shell HD). Stay away from the cheaper fluids. Using improper fluid will shorten the lifespan of the pump and that will cost you 3000 dollars to replace. That was the hardest job I tackled on my machine. If you ever need to replace the hydraulic pump at the rear of the machine I discovered it CAN be rebuilt (despite people saying it's a throw away pump). The pump is obsolete but a Parker supply store can rebuild them. The engine oil filter is Napa 1243 or WIX 51243 or FRAM PH20-A A leaking steering control valve and control valve for the bucket can be rebuilt at a local hydraulic shop. Also due to the age of the machine many of the O-rings on some of the hoses will begin leaking. That was the biggest reason for the leaks on mine. Here's some of the other things I replaced on mine: - Hydrostatic pump (Sundstrand 22-2069) - Hydrostatic motor (Sundstrand 22-3077) - Hydraulic oil cooler (Hayden OC 1260) - Inner and outer hub bearings ( Timken 3982 and Timken 3767) - Axle hub seals (CR-32502) - Axle hub gaskets -6 hole (GKT024) - Transmission seals (CR-22354) - Hydraulic Pump (rebuilt) - Hydraulic Pump crankshaft coupling (Lovejoy CENTAFLEX 16AS) - Spline shaft coupling between Hydraulic pump and CENTAFLEX crankshaft coupling (A-7707570) NOTE: This coupling comes 4" long and must be cut to down to 2-9/16" If you haven't replaced any of these things you WILL one day. But it's cheaper than spending $80,000 dollars on a new machine. If I lived close by I could save you lot of headache and time. Also if you ever have to replace the axle seals and bearings I would suggest removing the cover plates on the axles and removing the axle shafts to clean out all the gunk inside the axle housing and axle tubes. I guarantee you it's never been done. Also drain and refill the transmission. (Both use 80-90w gear oil). All these suggestions are urged if you plan on using the machine a lot in the coming years.
Wow you really have done pretty much everything! How about this filter? Looks like something that we should replace
That's just a hydraulic strainer, not a regular filter. It needs to washed out several times in a bucket of gas until it's completely clean. The important thing is making sure the gasket wasn't damaged upon removal. Only the hydraulic filter and 0-ring inside the filter cannister needs to be replaced. If the cannister itself doesn't leak you may be OK not replacing the 0-ring. Due to the age of these machines you will start having one leak after another so it's best to just replace anything that looks old when the fluid is drained. The majority of the mechanical parts used for these machines can still be purchased and was used on other brands of equipment. The Prime Mover company didn't make the parts. The only thing I couldn't find was the hydraulic pump at the rear of the machine. But the pump IS rebuildable because I just had mine rebuilt with a new spline shaft and pressure plates for 600 dollars. As far as I know these machines were only made during a 10 year period during the 80's. Mine was produced during the first production year and has the older John Deere 3164d engine. In the later years they started using the 3179d engine with the only difference being 10 more horsepower.
My brother just bought a Prime Mover LD 50 Wheel Loader. I would like to know more about the engine. The previous owner passed, and the unit was sold by his son. The son claims the motor is a Continental TM 27. He says it is the same motor as used in the John Deere 8N. I have no clue. The articulating ram is leaking and has to be repaired. I don't think that will be a big deal. At least I hope not. The first things I would like to find are a service manual for both the loader, and the motor. Also a rebuild kit for the carburetor if available. My hobby is rebuilding garden tractors, so this is a little out of my league, but I hope with some help, we can make it a better machine than it is now. Thanks to all in advance for any help you may be able to offer. Greg
The continental looks like an overhead valve engine, I don't think JD ever used a continental, and a FORD 8N would have been a flathead engine. Ferguson used some continental gas engines now and then? Doesn't matter, get the numbers off the carburetor tag and you can probably find the rebuild kit for the carburetor. The cylinder shouldn't be too bad, if you have time, patience, and the willingness to use a lot of force.
I know less than nothing about this unit, or the motor. I have never messed with one before, so forgive me if I ask stupid questions. I found a parts manual on line. No where in the parts manual does it show, or mention an electric fuel pump, but this unit has one. There is no mechnaical fuel pump on the motor. The previous owner stated there were fuel delivery issues. He installed a on/off switch. He said he was constantly tuning it off and on. If it does require an electric fuel pump, I suspect it needs a different one. One with less pressure. I have a pump rated at 4 psi. Would that be sufficient?
Gonna need some pictures to see what's going on. Usually, 4 psi would be fine for a carburetor. But if the fuel tank is above the carburetor, then there should be no need for a fuel pump. What pressure is the current pump putting out? For any gas engine, I would start with an ignition tune up and compression test while you're at it. If you like old lawn tractors, then you'll know about carburetors and engines leaking oil, burning oil, blowing oil out the vent tube, is your engine doing any of those things?
He does not have the loader home yet, it is still at the sellers house. My brother is in central Iowa, I am in IL. He has a cabin on a river with no internet access. This is going to be one of those long distance diagnose and repair jobs. We all know how fun those are. On top of that, he is leaving the first of Oct. for his home in Az. , so not much will probably be accomplished this year. Unless for some UN-GODLY reason he decides to bring this thing to my house. I hope and pray that doesn't happen. We have only heard the loader run for about 30 seconds. We never saw it move, never saw it lift the bucket. Personally, I would not have bought it under those conditions, but it's his money I guess. At this time we are simply trying to make it run long enough to put on a trailer, and unload.
These machines came with 3 different engines. The 4 cylinder Continental 2.7L gas engine, the Deutz 2.8L diesel, and the John Deere 3164 or 3179 diesel. Mine has the John Deere. You can eventually find a service manual for the machine itself on e-bay if you keeping checking the site often. Just type "John Deere LD-50". A complete service manual will detail everything on the machine including all the part numbers. Any local hydraulic shop can rebuild the leaking cylinders. Just be sure to flush the entire hydraulic system and replace the filter. After draining the hydraulic tank there is also a drain plug under the hydraulic motor. Be sure to drain the tank first!!! It's a messy job and time consuming. It takes close to 14 gallons of high quality tractor fluid if the system is drained entirely. The good thing is the parts for the machine are still available and were used on different machines. However the service manual does NOT include anything about the engine itself. That has to be purchased separately. Good luck on finding one. If you need parts for anything else on the machine I can help you. I've replaced almost everything on mine, including the hydrostatic pump and hydraulic pump. But I have no info on the Continental 2.7 engine itself. I'm not sure what other brands of equipment that engine was used for. If you can find that out it may lead you in the right direction.
In the event someone else may be looking for a Continental TM27 parts manual, I did find this. http://www.pittauto.com/customer/piauel/pdf/Continental_TM27_Parts.pdf What What fluid would you recommend for this unit?
I use Shell HD universal tractor fluid. It can be purchased at Tractor Supply. Given the age if your machine I would recommend cleaning out the strainer on the tank as well. It's up to you. Also replace the rubber high pressure hose that connects to it. The hydrostatic pump located under the hydraulic tank needs totally clean fluid in order to last a few years longer. I had to replace mine to the tune of $3000 dollars and it was REAL fun. If it ever stops going forward or in reverse that will be the problem. I used to have a ton of leaks on my machine so I replaced anything that looked old. Also had all the hyd. cylinders rebuilt. I now have zero leaks and a very reliable machine. If you have any other issues let me know
In the earlier post I mentioned looking for a service /parts manual on e-bay. Type "Prime Mover LD-50" instead of "John Deere LD-50"
My brother is planning to pick this thing up Saturday. He has located a trailer to haul it, but is unsure of the wheel base, width wise. Can anyone tell me center to center measurement on the tires, and also outside to outside? Thanks Greg
On mine the wheel base is 53" center to center and 66" outside measurement. These machines weigh 6600 pounds so with other attachments on it I would use a trailer rated at no less than 12000 lbs.
Thank You
Any idea where a guy could find this manual? Either a hard copy, or download? Thanks Greg
My brother got the machine back to his cabin. He has to give it a shot of ether to get it started, but says it runs very well, once it's going. I'm sure the carb could stand a rebuild, or at the very least, a good cleaning. Where did you locate all these parts? Or were they from different vendors?
My brother has another question. While sitting in the operator seat of his Prime Mover LD-50, there are 2 levers on the left hand side. One appears to be the throttle lever. The other one has him baffled. What is it for exactly, and what does it do? Thanks Greg
Hi DKB, since you have done so much work on your LD-50 I was hoping you could answer a question. I have a Lull LD-50 (made by Prime Mover) with the 3 cylinder John Deere Diesel. Been running it for nearly 10 years. Just yesterday the main hydraulic pump came loose from the engine and it made a terrible grinding noise. I immediately shut the engine off and soon found the the top bolts on the pump were missing or broken off and the pump is gapped away from the engine about 3/4 of an inch. It has been sending a vibration through the drive petals for over a year but unfortunately I never figured out what the causing it until the pump came off. Now I suspect based on the noise that the splines on the pump or engine crank shaft are stripped out. So here is my main question. How do you take the pump off? It is very difficult to access from the front even with the seat and surrounding panels removed. Is it easier to take the engine out or do you access it from the front with the engine still in place?
Never mind the previous message. I think we have it figured out for now. We managed to bolt the hydrostatic pump to the engine without taking anything apart besides removing the battery box. Unit works fine now.
Hi, I just purchased a LD50 and the brake caliper and master cylinder are missing does anyone know where I could purchase one from or a cross reference part I could use?
Good luck, and welcome to HEF. Most of the parts on a machine like that are off the shelf, especially hydraulic brake parts, it wouldn't surprise me at all if you could match it up to common truck parts based on a picture alone. Just where are you going to find a picture?
Thanks for reply. Yeah doesn’t seem easy to find at all and I have a book with diagrams but can’t seem to find something close to what I need.
You need to try to locate someone with one, online or otherwise, and see if they can send you some pics.
So I found the part number for the caliper it’s a single piston. Is there a cross reference guide out there or any one know where to locate one? The part number is B-31179. Thank you
Coming in late to the conversation but has anyone been able to find a repair manual for the LD50? I have searched high and low and only been able to find and download the parts book. Please let me know, thanks!
Hello from iowa I may be the owner of that loader. I live in iowa on the DM river. My friend lived a mile away and I helped him keep that thing running. He has passed away a year ago and he had given me this machine. Needless to say we used the he'll out of that thing. My friend overworked it trying to move stumps. He was hard of hearing and didn't hear wheen he was stressing that thing. Currently I recently had to pull the hydrostat to fix a front leak. That was a chore. Now after refilling it with new fluid it will only move back and forth just fine. Nothing else functions. Replaced some of the hoses just because. It had all functions prior to removing the hydrostat. So now I'm scratching my head trying to decide what to do. Any ideas please pass them on.
When a machine gets this old it's best to just put it out of service for a year and begin replacing everything to bring it back to reliable working condition. That's what I did. So now when I use mine, I don't have to work on it every time I use it. I spent around $8,500 dollars refurbishing mine, doing all the work myself including replacing the hydrostatic pump, the hydraulic pump, hub seals, bearings, hoses, oil cooler, radiator, etc. Replacing those pumps was indeed a chore and a learning curve. I pretty much know everything about these machines now since I done all the work myself. These small brutes are so handy to use around the farm. If you find one that runs, it's well worth spending the money to fix it back up when you consider how hard it is to find an affordable articulating machine in decent shape. Mine is probably the earliest model still in service. It was made during the first production year
In case you still have your machine, the parts come from different vendors. Let me know which parts you need and I can help you find the vendor for the specific parts. Some of the parts are rebuildable at local hydraulic shops.
I know this post is old, but I was confused if you were talking about the hydraulic pump or hydrostatic pump. Both are labor intensive and time consuming. And no, the engine doesn't have to be removed to fix the hydrostatic pump. Just the hydraulic tank. Figuring out how to remove those side panels to get the tank removed took some time though.
Have u found a manual. If not I have one
Hey there, new member here! It's good to find a few other LD50 owners out there! Here is my machine: - 1979 Prime-Mover LD50 (all original, including the paint) - 558 original hours - Stored inside it's entire life, owned by the same company (I'm the 2nd owner) - Ford 172ci industrial gas engine - Enclosed cab with heat
Hello, my Prime-Mover LD50 was built (or at least delivered new) to the original owner on April 18, 1979, (serial number 84) and has a Ford 172ci industrial gas engine from the factory. I am the 2nd owner of the machine.
Hello I do have a manual that I got online. It's a PDF file format. Covers all info. Such as the body or cab assembly to part numbers for all aspects of this machine. Some part numbers that have been changed are also noted. The pictures you sent are identical to mine. If this is what your after let me know and I will find a way to get this to you. The price however is really pricey. Are you ready for this? Absolutely FREE! That's what I paid.
After reading all the posts again on this LD50 I noticed someone posted that removing the hydrostat involved removing the fluid tank. I may be reading it wrong. I removed mine through the inside the cab. I could not fathom removing that tank. So I just started taking apart the seat mounting area. Low and behold I got to the hydrostat. Keep in mind here, this was my first ever doing this. All hoses on the Stat had to be removed (of course) as well as anything attached to it. Long story short...... Whale there it was waiting to come out. No cherry picker was gonna get to this thing, and if you did you would give up. So I followed my instinks on this. By the way I had an automotive shop specializing in auto trans rebuilding for 15 years. Also they call me Mr gadget. Ha ha So here's what I did. This is not a patented routine. I took a 2x4 that was as long as the roof lip inside the. I had to beat it into place so it was snug. I took an automotive scissor jack and bolted it to that 2x4. Once in the cab it was upside down. I used 2 chains and attached them to the hydrostat. After the last bolt was remove from the hydro it was now ready the removed. I used a 13/16 socket to lift and lower that unit. (Chains were run in such a way to allow the jack to hold the hydro) I had to wiggle and wrestle the unit out but really the 2nd time was easier. (Yep she still leaked out the front once installed) So anyway there's a brief potential if anyone needs to do this repair.
Sure isn't fun no matter how it's removed. It's a learning curve for sure. I opted to remove the fluid tank and side panels to give myself more room to get the pump removed.
Yours is slightly older than mine. I not sure but I think 1979 was the first year these machines started production. Mine is also 1979. I use it a lot but only on my farm. I don't let anyone else use it because I don't want it abused. These machines can be dangerous because of lack of safety features.
Man, this forum is great. There just isn't much information out there on these things, so finding other owners/operators (and repair folks, as we must be) is great! What is your serial number? I have a feeling that mine might have actually been built in 1978. There are several parts on the machine that say "1978." Like, my seat belt has a stitched label on it that says "1978" and a couple other things. I also believe that my Ford 172ci engine was manufactured in 1978 (Engine casting # D4JL 6007 K2.) Of course, it would make sense that building a 1979 machine would have been built in '78 and sold in '79. I'm curious to how many of these were built in total. Does anyone know? Who has the highest serial number around?
Thanks for sharing this information. Conversations like this will help us all keep these ole' Honeys movin'!
My serial# is 211. The axles have "79" stamped on them. It doesn't have a foot control brake, only a hand brake. The others I've seen have a foot brake. Your machine looks like it's been well taken care of its entire life. My machine had to be brought back from the dead. The engine itself was good, but everything else needed work. The biggest expense (and the most fun) was replacing the hydrostatic pump. The machine is now in reliable working condition. A lot of people keep bugging me wanting to buy it but I can't do without it. I used it 2 hours yesterday.
Yeah, I will be going through and greasing everything (including all linkages that I can gain access to) and then do all fluid changes. After that, I'll use it a while, listen to what she's telling me she needs and go from there. My machine also has the hand brake, but I need to take a look at it since it isn't holding, but I can't imagine it needs to much repair, perhaps just some adjusting. Mine also wants to "creep" juuuust a tiny bit, (like an inch a second at low-mid idle) but I'm hoping cleaning up the pedal linkages and the pedal shaft will help it out (fingers crossed!) I'm also noticing that is has a hard time shifting between 1, 2 and N. These are my initial findings having just got it, and driven it for 15 minutes collectively. I've been stuck at work just chomping at the bit to explore this thing in further detail! Future plans will be to convert it to accept any Bobcat Quick Tach attachment, and also run remote/aux hydraulics/electrical up front. Also, I will check my axels to see if there is a date on them as well.
I rarely have to use the brake since the machine stops automatically when taking my foot off the pedal (like a lawnmower does). However, that's only when it's used on flat terrain. Tt's not a positive stop, so it will try to roll on an incline due to the weight of the machine. As far as the shifting, make sure the machine is on level ground when changing gear. That may be the only reason you have trouble shifting between gears. Tapping on the foot pedal forward or reverse as you try shifting may help too. I can't think of any other reason it could be.
Hey I have a story on a leak out the front. My machine had the same problem. The seal is not a metal clad seal like most other seals. The first time I pulled it the front input has a big snap ring holding an aluminum (don't know what to call it). Anyway the snap ring is a bitch. Now there are 2 brass bushing like things. There is a thrust washer that has 3 or 4 little springs and all other seals are Orings. Enough of all of that. Here's my story. Really hard to find that setup. Found it finally but, it was 150.00 to ship it. Now once I put the hydrostat back in a leaked emediately. So out again and cussed for two months. All the literature out there but only one part assembly defined it as a static seal. Think about that. The second time putting it back in after 5 gallons of fluid I started it up. Unbelievable no leak. My conclusion is that the static is key to sealing it up. I know I'm still scratching my head. So there's a thought for anyone with this issue. By the way my leak was actually a hose that ran under the bell housing.
Those hose leaks can sometimes make it appear something else is leaking. That's why it's important to pressure wash everything so the true source of the leak can be found.
You are so correct. My monster was an oil and debri mess. A 1989 and who knows how long it has leaked. I did many power washes and had a heck of a time getting into those blind spots. I even had the luxury of replacing 2 hoses that went under to lower bell housing. My next delima was which hose went where on the hydrostat. Yeah I marked them but I ignored replacing them right away due to getting hoses made and being lazy. Have diagrams but just not sure which goes where. I even took pics before removing them. Now that's funny right there. What made me think I could use those to help? Anyway thanks for the response and I will pass on if I got those hoses right.
Make sure to replace any rubber 0-rings where the hoses attach. On mine some of the leaks were from bad 0-rings but not the hoses.
Hi everyone I am looking for a repair manual and a parts manual for a PRIME MOVER LD50 working on one for my uncle. I think the hydo is needing repair. It will not move and leaking oil . looking for any help i can get. Thank you
I doubt you can find an actual repair manual. I know what's involved removing and replacing the hydrostatic pump and you basically have to learn how to do it yourself (if you're mechanically inclined and have patience). I had nobody helping me at all from start to finish so it can be done by one person and using a hoist. What I done to make it easier was to remove the hydraulic tank, the seat, and the two side panels, which is a time-consuming, head scratching chore itself. With everything out of the way, there are 4 bolts between the engine and the pump that holds the pump in place. But before I started any of this work, what I did first was to ensure my pump needed to be replaced to begin with. I disconnected the foot control arms at the pump. Then while the engine was running, I manually moved the lever on the pump left or right as far as it would move (further than it would move with the control arms connected) The machine did try to move so at that point I knew the pump was flooded with hydraulic fluid and was bad. Keep in mind replacing the hydrostatic pump will also require replacing the hydraulic oil cooler, the hydraulic filter, removing and cleaning the tank strainer and flushing the entire system. And replace all the O-rings on the hose connections (which may be the source of the leaks). Very, very time consuming. The pump itself with shipping and taxes was around $3,200 dollars!! That was several years ago before current inflation hit us like a bomb. The biggest reason these pumps fail is lack of maintenance, contamination and using the wrong fluid. Some people make the mistake of using Lucus hydraulic stop-leak in their old equipment which is a big mistake as it will kill hydrostatic pumps.
I'm looking for the brake caliper, mine has the hydraulic service brake pedal and parking brake lever, its the single piston one. I have the part number, b-31779, but so far I cant find anything. My caliper was removed at some point so I can't search by casting number or manufacturers stamp. Does anyone have a machine with that style caliper? and if so would you share any markings or numbers off it? Thank you!
the master seems like it was made by "Mico" now ZF Mico, and it looks like one of their 2 stage straight line master cyl.. but I have not idnetified which one yet, still trying to get it loose, 3 bolts came free fine, but it seems to be one with its mount.
got it free, the pedal rod end looks like hell, but clean fluid came out when I cracked the line, so maybe it will come around. theyre not cheap, rebuilt one is $475 or so, parts kit is $200+ the part number on the master is 03-020-419 and it takes Mico 02-001-207 Power Cylinder Repair Kit According to the ZF site. got to figure out if it takes brake fluid or mineral based hydraulic fluid, and still looking for a part number on the caliper.
I don't know if you ever figured out your filter issue, its not just a strainer, its a filter, was made by Donaldson, but has since been discontinued, nothing exists in the wild. I had my local hydrailic shop drill out the spot welds on the flange and the suction bypass and weld in a new wix 51508 filter. I will probably never have to change it again, the oil in it was quite clean and it gets filtered by both this filter and the one for the hydro static pump which is available and much easier to change. If I was to do it again I would probably rig up a stack of the bypass valve the the flange with threaded rod so you can just swap in an off the shelf filter. I don't thing anything is too critical about it, most hydraulic pumps just get a suction strainer for protection, this has to be better for it.