My extendahoe has slide plates welded to the extender tube and inside of the dipper housing. The slides seem to be spot welded in before the bottom of the dipper housing was welded on. The slides have worn thin and have began to break off of the weld. How on earth would one replace the internal slides? As much as I like my Deere, this looks like a terrible design. I asked this question to my local Deere mechanic. He doesn't recall ever seeing any that needed replacing. Please open the link below to see a photo of my dipper housing. I'm afraid to here the answer to this one. /Users/normal/Desktop/310D dipper.png Thanks
Is the pic a file pic from your computer Deon?
I am sending another source of the photo, hopefully you can all can open it. mgP1LNjV.jpg
Seems I need a lesson on how to post a photo. Atco, can you help.
Yep, click this link.
With your instructions. I think I've got you a photo.
I think this pic shows the wear plates in the end of the housing, items #5 and #6. If you have to replace them, you most likely will have to disassemble the extension section. There are wear plates and reinforcements welded to the end of the extension as well. The may be worn just like the pads for the dipperstick housing.
Atco, You have a newer model than mine there. If you look at the end of the dipper housing, you will see a difference. The 1992 model does not have the rectangular blocks like your photo but it has flat bars that run the whole length of the dipper housing. They are not listed in the parts catalogue. Only the ones on the extendible tube are listed. There are two welded inside the top and two welded inside the bottom. None on the sides. They are about 1" wide X 1/4" thick x 48" long or so steel runners. The extendable tube has 8 similar flat bars. Two per side. They are still very good but the inner ones of course are the bad ones. I see no way but to cut the dipper apart to replace the inner slides. Cutting/welding/warping. Oh my god! I really appreciate the fact you are looking at this with me. There must be something I don't know here.
Well, it's been many years since I've replaced wear plates on one, and it was a Case machine, but that extension section must have some provision for removal. I'd be surprised if you had to cut up your dipper housing to remove it. Once extension is removed, you should be able to proceed with repairs. If your dipper housing is like the one you posted, just what is items 5 and 7? It would be nice if you could post some pics of the dipper on your machine.
5 and 7 are just a cap used to keep the end of the hosing from opening (the slit along the top can open without the cap). The wear bars (slides) are welded to the inside of the housing. About 20 edge welds 1" long along each side of the wear bars. The older 310C was made the same way. The Cat backhoe also has an internal extension tube like the 310D. But they use wear blocks like the newer Deere. What is that block made with? Can I somehow modify mine to fit these blocks? I wish you could look into my dipper stick. I'm sure you would scratch your head for a while. Thanks
Do those wear bars go the full length inside the dipper housing?
Yes. You've got the picture. Only a mouse can work in there without cutting the thing apart.
I don't even have any suggestions. I can't see how you can retrofit a different wear pad scheme with those bars welded inside the dipper housing as they would interfere with any other concept you come up with.
I've done them before, big job though, Have to take extahoe out and extahoe piston. than take dipper off boom and lay on table. Reach in from both ends as far as you can and cut off the welds i use a small grinder with a cutting wheel. there will be about 18 inches in the centre you can not reach, welds are about half inch long every 4 to 6 inches, You will have to rig some thing to your grinder to reach in and cut off the last couple of welds i used a broom handle wired and taped to the grinder and taped the trigger in the on position than reach inside the stick and got someone to plug the grinder in when you are in position. Just have to be careful and it is slow going. once i get the new strips in and tacked at the ends i tie the electrode holder to the broom handle and reach in to finish the centre. It takes about a day and a half to do with pulling all the extahoe apart and putting it back to gether.. Good luck
Mapleleaftrucks, I admire your patience. Do you know if you are the only one that has ever attempted this job? I guess that doesn't really mater. What maters is that if you can do it I should also be able to. What type of metal did you use and do you know if its the same or better that original? The top slides need to be a set of two due to the centre slit but could I not replace the bottom bar with one wide piece? Do you know if the later model extendahoes with square block only mounted to the ends, do the blocks slide into the non-protected tube or how they are made? What are the block made of? Steel or special plastic? I wander if I can't improve when I refurbish this ridiculous design. Thanks
Many years ago I did that same job on my 510B.It was a nightmare as it's a terrible design.My original wear bars were screwed on,I welded the new ones in with some kind of very expensive rod I remember.When I had those wear out,I pinned the dipper shut as I just didn't want to go through that agony again.
I was thinking that when you weld the new strips in, drill 3/8" holes, maybe bigger, maybe smaller, at the points on the boom you want to weld. Make up a couple of wood wedges with pull ropes attached, drive those in opposing directions into the boom to shove the strips against the boom. Fire up the welder and do a rosette weld thru the holes in the boom onto the strip. You might need a hole every foot, just in the middle where you can't reach. Or do all of it this way, leave the weld visible so the next guy can just drill it out. Instead of having to work in the boom with the angle grinder. I can't imagine how hard it must be to weld something 4 feet away, you're just kind of hoping the bead is good. Unless you've got a camera you could run down the boom. I've got the same kind of extendahoe on my Ford 5550, It's almost 20 years older than yours. I don't think I'm gonna take a look up in there anytime soon.
Does any one know what type of metal should be used for these ware bars? John Deere only sells the ware bars that attach to the extension but not the inside ones. They may be the same size. I'm not sure.
Not much of a guru here Deon - but typicaly speaking, those internal difficult to get to strips, should be a harder material than the easy to get to external strips. Make the 'outer' strips - sacrificial. Do the "internal" strips really need doing as well? Maybe replacing the outer strips alone will make the hoe more livable? & not perfect..... Hard for us to say without seeing it. :beatsme PS - When you fix it use plenty of dry film lube to reduce wear. Thats :my2c worth
Alrman, Unfortunately the outer strips are perfect. Must have been replaced before I bought the hoe. The inner strips are worn so thin they have unwelded and flattened to the point they are breaking off and some sections are flapping around in the tube or missing. Need to fix or more damage will come later.
I would go with 8620, hard surface, soft, ductile inner. You need the surface hardness to make it last. Onlinemetals doesn't have strips, but look around the net. http://www.onlinemetals.com/steelguide.cfm
Thanks El Hombre, I have a local metal supplier that may have 8620 flat bars. I'll give them a call. Anthony