Please advise me on the most effective way to replace this belt . The old belt finally gave out, gone. Am I correct that I can still start and raise the boom, that the hydraulic pump is turned by the spline in the engine and then place locking arm in place, then proceed with counter weight and pump
If the water pump is belt driven I would not run it for more than a minute or 2 at a time without letting it cool off for a while.
Welcome to HEF, James ! Yes you can. First be sure to remove the old belt to prevent damage to the radiator.
Thankyou. Any additional information you might have would be greatly welcomed. Happy Holidays
I have the service manual if you need it. Send me a private message with your email address in it and I will send you a link to my Google Drive.
It's a real pain however you do it, but I don't pull the chinweight. I just reach down and take the 4 bolts out, then pry the adapter forward 3/16" and slip the new belt through.
Hello. Thankyou. I'm not sure what you mean by "adapter". Is that the pump itself ? Any further information would be great. I'm really hoping to do it this way but saw another post that said you could bend the pulley and I wouldn't want to do that Thanks again
#14 is 1/2 of the pump coupler that you need to separate. There is no need to pry on the crankshaft pulley. Parts book link for you --> https://www.mycnhistore.com/us/en/c...56875BD6/ECD06496-EFBE-E111-9FCE-005056875BD6
#16 is one of four bolts that come out, then slide 14 back on the shaft to get enough room to slip the new belt through. Take a look at the splines on the pump shaft, work some moly grease into the threads while you have it loose, if it's rusty or dirty, clean it first. Check the crankshaft pulley for wobble with the engine running, check all the other pulleys for bearings feeling gritty, alignment, nicks or bends in the vees. Especially the fan. Check the front engine bolts for tightness and any movement of the mounts for engine or pump. Worn paint, or rust seeping are the biggest signs if they're not obviously loose.
The adapter is a 4-bolt flange that bolts to the center of the pulley that the splined shaft on the pump slides into. You won't bend the pulley if you push forward on the handle of your pry bar so that the pressure is in the center of the crank, rather than pulling back which would put it on the periphery. The pulley on that machine is much more robust that the V-pulley on older ones. Weird: I posted this 2 hrs ago, it didn't post, but showed up dim in the bottom window when I opened the thread back up.
I have had that happen also quite often. I'm probably wrong (again) but I think if I exited the webpage before the post was completely loaded and that is what happened. At times, I still have problems with HEF pages and postings taking forever to load. It isn't my browser or internet service, because I can go to a different website when HEF is stalled out and new pages load instantly.
If it's a V belt, you can use a link belt and skip all the misery. https://www.harborfreight.com/vibration-free-link-belt-43771.html?_br_psugg_q=link+belt Amazon has them too. I've had one on mine for years, no problems. Joe H
It is a serpentine.
Hello, do you think I could make it work on a vGroove 1" x 5' fan belt ? It surely would help. I was thinking about purchasing 2 - 1/2" x 5', running them side by side. Did your application have a tensioner? If so did you utilize it or skip it ? Kindly James
If you're asking me I'd guess no. And no tensioner on mine. Joe H
Sorry, but no it is not possible. The tensioner cannot and should not be eliminated. Be sure to check the tensioner pulley for a loose or failing bearing. It is quite common for them to wear out.
You know what, I've never heard of these adjustable v-belts until now. I'm going to order one from Amazon, install it inside out, with or without the tensioner and see if it works. Worst case scenario, it doesn't work Best case scenario, while golly gee, it WORKS
How’s it going to work on the outside with the tensioner? Good luck, sincerely.
Bad idea, put the OEM belt on, or a Gates etc. And you won't have to do it again for another twenty years, this is not something to see if it gets by for three months then blows your engine because it fails. Those segmented belts run fine as V belts, but they hate rubbing and that's what you'd be doing running on a multi v. You'd be just as well splicing leather and hoping that works.
You can ignore the advice of experience and do the most asinine thing I ever read on HEF. Please post back and let us know how many tubes in the radiator were damaged when those upside down v belts get tossed off the pulleys.
I was gonna say it can't be the MOST asinine thing in the history of HEF, but really, it's such a simple repair to screw up that royally, I think he'd have Vtech beat. At least for a week or so.
Best/most asinine suggestion since @Steve.ahlgren85 and that's saying something.........
The dreaded D-6 thread.
Duhhh, catch the mouse George...
The HEF yardstick of "how not to do it", although TBH he/we did get there in the end. Nothing else has ever come anywhere close IMHO.
After reading all of these post I have decided against the adjustable v-belts It's -15 here, going to wait for a little warmer, build makeshift containment, run my large heater, and disconnect it where the four bolts are bolting the hydraulic pump to the cam shaft. Thanks, wouldn't even considered it if some one here hadn't said they did it and it worked Kindly James
One that was close--On a GoldWing Forum I use to be on some 10 years ago. Post--My Wing is Smoking. I did a complete service changed oil & filter spark plugs and air filter. I took it on a 150 mile trip this last weekend and it started smoking and burned a little more than a quart of oil. Now this thread went totally haywire from member peanut gallery arguing back and forth what caused it. It grew to eight pages from 8 am to 3 pm and wasn't slowing down. The answers/arguments were being typed and entered so fast the OP couldn't get a word in edge wise. If it was possible there was going to be a showdown in the streets of Laredo by 10 the next morning. Being a part time mod I posted--- {Everyone Cool your Jets}. I sent the OP a pm asking a few questions then posted my opinion. Then I posted {It seems the OP installed a K&N air filter for the first time in his GL 1500. What happened was he used a full bottle of filter oil on the filter, that oil is a high detergent like ATF. It's been sucking a constant vapor of filter oil which has unseated the rings. He is going to change the filter back to stock and reply back}. Then I had most all telling me I was full of crap. The OP came back after a week {It's all good I made a huge mistake by using too much oil on the aftermarket filter, engine stopped smoking and using oil}. Thanks everyone for all the entertainment arguing! It helped me zero.
AWWWW DAM! I was already popping some corn in the microwave.
Good decision ! To each his own in regards to those linked belts. If someone wants to use them and they were happy with them that's great. I never have used them and wouldn't even consider using them. You never had that choice, James. Your engine was designed for a serpentine belt and that is all you can put on it. Kind Regards, Tinkerer
Curious why anyone would change a filter on a Goldwing. It's not a crotch rocket and can go for 100,000 miles with just reg. maintainence. Have heard that K&N filters flow more air because they don't filter nearly as small of particles as other filters. You certainly wouldn't want to use on on a dirt bike or something else used in dusty or dirty conditions.
I've had three Wings, and yes the air filters get dirty. Regular maintenance is changing all the filters. K & N's suck. There's wings out there with over 350K on them. The thing is changing the air filter on a 1500 or 1800 can take 3 plus hours for a novice. Can be done in one hour. A filter normally lasts depending on area 40K.
Even going to a dealer every 6 month's or so for service wouldn't be that bad. Usually people with Goldwings aren't on a really strict budget.
Wings-high percentage of people who buy them find out later-it's costly to own. Honda parts are stupid expensive and finding a dealer that has a factory trained Wing mechanic is 50/50.
Again, I'm not going to use the adjustable vbelt. I'm going to do it by removing the 4 bolts
A knew a Honda shop that had good mechanics but after one of the owners, who was the service manager retired, it eventually went to crap. Used to be known as the place to take your Honda. Always busy. A few years before they sold they were sending mechanics home early because of lack of work. The business sold out a few years ago after 49 years in business. Apparently they were losing a lot of money the last few years but got a good price and still owned the building which was recently sold. It's a little sad driving by and the Honda dealer isn't there.
Hello well warmer weather is tempting me to tackle the fan belt. I've surveyed the situation, and here's my take on what I've read here and can see 1st the top two bolts on the hydraulic pump are easy, but can't figure out how to remove bottom two. Don't have a socket small enough to bust them loose, or even get on them. 2nd, am I not mistaken that if I try unbolting the coupler to allow 3/16" for belt to slip by THAT I MUST BE ABLE TO REMOVE / LOOSEN hydraulic pump bolts to allow it to slide 3/16" ? Any input again greatly and modestly accepted Thanks James
You turn the crank so those 2 bolts are up. It's not hard to turn if you go slooow. The coupler will slide up the splines on the shaft far enough to slide the belt in. I did do one one time where the splines were stuck so hard that I loosened the pump bolts a little, but usually you don't have to.
Hello Mitch504, thankyou for the information, if the spline isn't seized and slides freely, how much force am I looking at to get it to move ? I read another post where someone said they had to wedge apart with a cold/cole (not sure) chisel. I'm praying mine isn't seized up
If it slides freely, pry it over with a screwdriver. If it's stuck, whatever it takes. It is "cold chisel", blacksmiths used them to cut cold steel, versus a hardee, used to cut hot steel.
Wondering if some penetrating lube could be sprayed on the splines or around the ends of the coupler to help it slide easier.
Ok, thanks again, looks like either way hydraulic pump removal/v/coupling bolts it's going to be difficult, Will give coupling a shot first since I don't have right tool for hydraulic pump lower bolt removal
I read here somewhere earlier where someone had cut a socket down and welded on it some sort of apparatuses for removing bottom two hydraulic pump bolts. If that person could chin in again and post a picture of that homemade tool, that would be great
The hydraulic pump is a 2-bolt flange isn't it?
@mitch504 definitely have 4 x bolts Mitch. Here's what I use to undo those lower bolts ..... but the front counterweight needs to be removed to use it effectively....... I think that's a whole new can of worms for this thread.....
I would have sworn the sk pump mounted to the motor support with a 2 bolt flange, but it's probably been 10 years since I pulled an sk pump. Ok, definitely slide the coupler on the splines.
The hydraulic pump is 4bolts Did you make the tool in the picture ? If not where might I go to purchase one like it ? I'm going to start with the flange trying to get 3/16" and slide belt in, if it doesn't separate then I'm going to have to loosen all 4 bolts. Thanks James
The tool was fabricated. When you remove the 4 bolts in the adapter, if it doesn't slide away from crankshaft pulley, keep spraying penetrant on the spline area. You will be able to rotate the pump shaft, using a long steel punch keep tapping the coupling & turn the coupling 90 degrees every 10 hits or so, it will eventually move. To speed things up you can use an air hammer with a flat ended tool on it.
Thanks, I'm not in a rush so slow and easy for me. I'm going to remove the bolts spraying pb blaster- wd40- and let it rest. Nice fabricating on the homemade
If a customer (contract digger) calls me after they have blown a fan belt while they were on a job, & I was readily available, I would drive to their location & have them running again, before their engine had cooled down. Have often done that type of a repair, with machine still parked on the trench & an audience of town council workers watching.